A different reason you might want to seal up the limber holes is to keep the bilge clean. When the wood does start to disintegrate more it will color the bilge water and carry with it debris which can mess with your bilge pumps and have you tracing the source of the odd colored water. Right now it is "easy" just a bit of time to seal them up, later it will be a project that just keeps getting delayed because it will require so much extra work. Just a thought. You do awesome work and I really enjoy your channel, keep it up!
I think the wet cores should be allowed to wick out and dry. The constant vapor pressure of it being sealed up over heat and freeze cycles is going to make it hairline crack somewhere and find its way out eventually. Best to let it have a way out in the limber holes. There should not be much water flowing in the boat anyhow unless a hatch is left open or water is spilled in a drunken party inside. The only water moving around in our boat (other than drip from the stuffing box contained in the engine room and wet bilge) is meltwater from the ice box which doesn't want to go down the drip hose and instead leaks by the darn mushroom fitting at the bottom of the icebox instead of going down through it. Or comes into the head when the port is left open and it rains or we hit rough seas.
Mads, for the love of all things hole-y (sorry, not sorry) Seal off that exposed rotted coring!! That is a feast for termites, cockroaches, and other buggers that are regularly killed off in northern climes but that will thrive in warmer temps and waters. Also, thanks so much for doing what you do. You are an inspiration and education to many of us.
60K yippie !! I cannot believe this channel has not exploded even more than what it has, I really enjoy the time spent watching your weekly updates... You are doing great work to that old girl and she will pay you all back in spades once on the water !! All the best From Madison Indiana USA
I have watched all of your videos since the very beginning. I was a fan back when it wasn't cool to be a fan. I always love watching and have learned so much from you. Here is the deal, I don't want you to call your boat a Warrior 38 any longer. It is no longer a warrior it is a Mads 38. You have and will completely rebuild the the entire boat from bow to stern. Let's start calling it what it is a Mads 38.
The only problem with your videos is that they fly by because they are informative and entertaining. I watched one of your very early videos and as the say "you've come a long way baby". Great job.
With as detailed and precise as you seem to be, my bet is you will NEVER be able to live with yourself unless you seal up the limber holes. It will eat at your soul until it is done "right," so I'll just sit back and wait until you give in to your inner perfectionist - then and only then will we both be able to sleep comfortably. :)
I have to stop questioning your methods and just watch the video. I thought when you put the floor down you would loose all that storage. Now I understand how that works. You are definitely a better boat remodeler then I would be. Keep up the great work. Hi Ava.
Thank you Mads for the video. As always very informative and always a little trick can be found in the video when you pay close attention. I have never seen the sailing trick done with a pencil and stick like you did. So simple and efficient. Take care and have a great week ahead.
Another reason to consider sealing in the limber holes is as the wood decays it will crumble and cause you to be ever cleaning small bits of wood from your bildge...can you imagine the number of ruined bildge pumps? Worn out impellers?
Mads, I am liking how she is coming together! The kerfed plywood is going to look great! One thing I would strongly suggest you consider is also raidusing the inside corners of your seating, this allows people to sit in the corner, it will let you get another 1-2 people at the table if you are packed.
Hello Mads, Just a thought on using two part poly paint in the bilges. Anywhere that you will have standing water you should switch to gel-coat, epoxy paint, or even enamel. Polyurethane will fail if standing water is left on it for more than about 72 hours. At least that is Awlgrips advice, and my experience. Two parts are a bit more resistant to failing as compared to one parts, but still should not be submerged. I have really enjoyed watching your progress. It motivates me with my project. I'm 3/4 of the way through building a 61' sailboat from a bare hull myself. Watching someone else suffering the itch of sanding glass warms my heart. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Tim Oh, and if you ever get to the Annapolis, Maryland area in the states, you should look me up and come check out my shop and boat project.
Mads, cliffhanger or not this was a great video. I find myself really invested in the water tank project. How nerdy is that? Man, I just like your calm style and Swedish attention to detail!
Every week I just get more amazed at the skill set you have developed. I'm currently and very slowly reworking my old Pearson 424 and you are an inspiration.
I'm a complete sail life addict now. I discovered sail life a few months ago and binge watched up to date (after purchasing my own 26` sailboat). One thing that sticks in my head is when you were talking about one thing missing is a woman that loves sailboat DIY and the thought of cruising and living on a boat....but hey, you can't have everything...….hang on, you've found her....well done Mads!Great videos, you've come a long way since your first videos, I can't wait to see Athena completed and look forward to watching your cruising adventures.Keep up the great work.
LOVE LOVE watching your channel! bought a sailboat 3 years ago and she's been sitting in annapolis since. i need to go get her because i am in South Carolina. i've been panicking that i haven't had the money to go get her. this is inspiration as well as knowing she's ok and i may just have to do a little work on her when i get her. thank you so much for sharing. i watch as i'm going to bed so i can dream about happy things like picking up my boat and going sailing! gonna start watching ALL from the beginning!!
Great stuff Mads - I'm going to cheer loudly when the last of the hull is glassed and you can put that all behind you. So much nicer to be building new than repairing old!
I am fascinated with your work. I am a cabinetmaker. I have never built on a boat but the process is very interesting. Can’t wait wait until you can be together with your love. From Arkansas.
I love the idea of the curved seating. Hard corners should be avoided where ever possible, anything that reduces shin bruising is worthwhile. Cliffhanger, argh!!!! It's hard enough waiting for Sunday evening to roll around now we have to wait for the kerfing exercises as well. Keep up the good work, Athena is going to be a beautiful home for the both of you. Thanks for sharing your adventures.
Another incredible DIY video. I can't wait to watch you (RE)do the electrical panels. Your slight OCD really comes to the surface. BTW, the need for a AC source select panel is really not needed unless you have the intention of adding a generator, which I don't see the need for. Most modern Inverters are "pass through" and permit the shore power to pass through when connected. Just make sure the inverter has a stand-alone service disconnect switch.
First, love the prime & paint on interior, great detail. Glueing the floor to the ribs, another great detail that adds am enormous amount of strength. Epoxy the holes, just because the wood is moist now, doesn't mean you should speed the process. Mix some epoxy & seal that wood up, then you will have more time of more strength, like glueing the floor. Love the idea of hatches later for storage, great thinking. Keep working hard & thanks for sharing
The double radius will look great. Smear some thickened epoxy around the edges of the weeper holes, that should protect/seal the end grain in the plywood to keep it from wicking up moisture.
Nice, making lots of great progress,. That white really brightens thing up a bunch. When you get ready to do the access panels, embedded re-magnets make great no hardware latching systems. Just be sure to fully encase the magnet in epoxy so they don't disintegrate from moisture.
The problem with magnets is, if the boat ever gets rolled over by a wave, the weight of the stuff inside will be too much for the magnets, and the whole lot will fall out, landing on the head of whoever is inside. Proper, strong latches are the only way to go. *Everything* needs to be properly secured. Number one rule of designing and building a boat interior is "think inverted."
Are you planning on glassing down the inboard edge of the cabin sole sections along the longitudinal stringer? That would give you the fourth side of the box, and those two boxes (one on each side of the boat) will be crazy strong in resisting torsional stresses. You won't lose much strength at all be cutting in your access hatches.
I hope you are getting adequate ventilation in there while you work. Even if the paint/primer has dried it won't stop off-gassing instantly. I am paying for years of different chemical exposures from automotive repair with a respiratory sensitivity that means no bug sprays and no to most household cleaners never mind the stuff I used while working. Those would leave me in a near migraine condition. Please be smarter than I was. I know it hurt a little tearing out your old work but you will do even better when you remodel the cabin and the experience gained from all your electrical work will pay off in spades. Keep looking up because no one accomplished much staring at their shoes. :)
Great video as always, when you are using the track saw to make the repetaive scoring cuts you can get a track square which would allow you to just mark out the cut spacing and slide along making the cuts as opposed to marking them out with a square and then having toline up the track on your lines. You may have this and I simply didn't notice it but a useful tool if you don't have it.
Mas, This video couldn't have come at a better time! I'm trying to rebuild one of my two settees to make it into a pull out double bunk. I only have room to do it on one side of the boat because the doorway is offset. I want to elimate the hard corner and replace it with a radius because it will be so close to the doorway and I do not want people bumping their shins on it. I had no idea how to make a radius in plywood. Thanks this was invaluable to me and I'm sure others as well! As always, love to watch you work. Did you ever think about either doing two videos a week or longer videos? I'm sure we'd all love to see more!!
Another great video Mads. I agree with most of the other comments that you should go ahead and seal the weep holes now. It will never be easier than now and better safer than sorry.
Two curves. Not just for the legs in and out but because it’s next to that already small entrance to the forward birth. That one big curve sticking out would be a shin buster underway.
Mads now you have 60K subscribers we do not expect you to reply to every comment - there are not enough hours in the day to do that.!😳 That said here is my offering: 1. I know you did not go into great detail about tank mounting and securing but hope you keep the bottom of the tank off the sole on bearers, so that air can circulate maybe even drill some vent holes through the sole? 2. Considering storage under the sole - I wonder if you could source good quality plastic boxes with locking lids that could be let into the sole ( they could have lifting straps fixed to them). You could be lucky and have equal sized ones that fit every bay. The advantages of this arrangement would be it would be easier to retrieve stored goods, it would give quick access if there should ever be damage and it would avoid stored goods being damaged by flood water - which commonly happens on yachts!. Hope this is helpful.😀👍⛵️ You are making fantastic progress.👍
Might want to rethink sealing the weep holes. There are varieties of cockroaches and other bugs in more southern climates that eat wet rotting wood or find them very good living quarters.
Why do anything half assed now. Def fill those drain holes. Good comment about bugs and also i would glass the top of that ply because its the right thing to do. Then epoxy any exposed ply end grain before paint cause thats also right. But if not sure it will last 30 years and youre kid will have to rip it all out when it delaminates. My 43 year old tayana girl is now doing the thing i am talking about.
@@sailingsolo5290 That is what is strange to me. All the tedious hours upon hours ofwork he does and than not do something that will take minutes to do.
Just this morning I have seen one of your earlier videos where you have shown the Laguna table mount on Obelix.... It is remarkable how you have developed since then.
Great job Mads! I started following your channel when I became the owner of an Albin Ballad and needed practical info on a couple of issues (info I found in your channel) and today your videos are the las joy of the week before Monday arrives. Thanks for that and keep it coming!!
I think the amount of former structural core exposed by the ample limber holes will facilitate the eventual drying out of the wood over a number of years as it slowly wicks out, if the boat is constantly kept bone dry inside. With your previous efforts fixing the deck leaks, and redoing that awful Warrior factory deck to hull joint disaster, this will be pretty easy, especially with new and properly installed port lights keeping out day-to-day rain and spray. I believe smell will not be much of a problem with the wet core any more than it is on any typical cruising boat, especially in the tropics. Keeping the boat dry inside, and watching the humidity constantly with adequate ventilation will be key. In colder climates adequate inschulation (lol - I couldn't help myself) will be your friend keeping condensation at bay. With good heating systems that ia not a problem anyhow as I'm sure you are aware of with Obelix and your diesel heater. Finally, tea tree oil formulations, like Kanberra gel, do wonders to alleviate boat smells -especially on boats lived in full time. We go though a little less than a gallon of the stuff a year. We feel it is just another budget item that makes living on a boat bearable.
unfortunately I didn't make it up to Skive this year to give you a hand - Ærøskøbing was the best I could do. Good that you consider to have the spaces below the cabin sole to be accesable. Thanks for your excellent DIY videos - the inspector
Probably too late now but we found the L shaped galley to be the best design for long distance cruising. Easier to stay close to the stove and less chance of being thrown around.
From what I understand, every screw through fiberglass into wood is a way for moisture to get into the wood and cause rot long term. Especially since you now have a pathway from the wet/rotten beams to the cabin sole. Would it be better to remove the screws afterwards and then fill up the holes with epoxy in a syringe? Or should you avoid screws altogether? Or is that just rather irrelevant? I would do a single curve to match the other side / other radius in the boat. Larger radius should be easier and look nicer too I think. Thanks for the video!
great work for sure looks like you do this for a living, was going to say why are the sections you reinforced not sealed on top as well then water couldn't get in, reason must be if it gets hole from outside it won't be able to get drained
Have you considered heat and vacuuming the chambers to try and draw moisture out. Hard to quantify your success but might be interesting... I would hope that the old wood might dry out with time by giving it a path to atmosphere.
I don't know who these people are who are leaving thumbs down, but they're dicks! Been watching you for well over a year now Mads. Keep it up. It'll be an amazing boat when it's done
Love your work, but I think it would be a good idea to seal the limber holes now while you have easy access to them. Debris from the wood when it does finally rot could become an issue if it clogs/seizes a bilge pump or prevents a float switch from moving. What kind of hatch pulls are you thinking of using, and most importantly, how's Jökull doing?!
I enjoy watching these videos and the methodical planning and execution. What is the pipe running through the bilge and have you confirmed its condition for re-use for whatever?
You may want to try one of these as a scribing tools Aristo AR55429AZ Professional High Precision Flip Case Full Metal Compasses with Spindle Guide, Extension Pole with Universal Adapter and after you finish building your Boat you can use it for Navigation . I used one when i used to build boats . Well Nothing as small as Athena but it should still work.
Hey Mads, your workmanship is exceptional as per usual! I have a quick query, you mention when the last rotten rib is laminated on the hull in the saloon then that's it for all the ribs in the boat... What is your plan for the remaining rotten ribs fore and aft of the saloon...?
A different reason you might want to seal up the limber holes is to keep the bilge clean. When the wood does start to disintegrate more it will color the bilge water and carry with it debris which can mess with your bilge pumps and have you tracing the source of the odd colored water. Right now it is "easy" just a bit of time to seal them up, later it will be a project that just keeps getting delayed because it will require so much extra work. Just a thought. You do awesome work and I really enjoy your channel, keep it up!
That's an excellent point!
I think the wet cores should be allowed to wick out and dry. The constant vapor pressure of it being sealed up over heat and freeze cycles is going to make it hairline crack somewhere and find its way out eventually. Best to let it have a way out in the limber holes.
There should not be much water flowing in the boat anyhow unless a hatch is left open or water is spilled in a drunken party inside. The only water moving around in our boat (other than drip from the stuffing box contained in the engine room and wet bilge) is meltwater from the ice box which doesn't want to go down the drip hose and instead leaks by the darn mushroom fitting at the bottom of the icebox instead of going down through it. Or comes into the head when the port is left open and it rains or we hit rough seas.
Mads, for the love of all things hole-y (sorry, not sorry)
Seal off that exposed rotted coring!! That is a feast for termites, cockroaches, and other buggers that are regularly killed off in northern climes but that will thrive in warmer temps and waters.
Also, thanks so much for doing what you do. You are an inspiration and education to many of us.
Rumour has it that there is a man so well practiced in laying up fiberglass that people think the footage of him in action has been sped up.
Haha :D
60K yippie !! I cannot believe this channel has not exploded even more than what it has, I really enjoy the time spent watching your weekly updates... You are doing great work to that old girl and she will pay you all back in spades once on the water !! All the best From Madison Indiana USA
I have watched all of your videos since the very beginning. I was a fan back when it wasn't cool to be a fan. I always love watching and have learned so much from you. Here is the deal, I don't want you to call your boat a Warrior 38 any longer. It is no longer a warrior it is a Mads 38. You have and will completely rebuild the the entire boat from bow to stern. Let's start calling it what it is a Mads 38.
The only problem with your videos is that they fly by because they are informative and entertaining. I watched one of your very early videos and as the say "you've come a long way baby". Great job.
With as detailed and precise as you seem to be, my bet is you will NEVER be able to live with yourself unless you seal up the limber holes. It will eat at your soul until it is done "right," so I'll just sit back and wait until you give in to your inner perfectionist - then and only then will we both be able to sleep comfortably. :)
I have to stop questioning your methods and just watch the video. I thought when you put the floor down you would loose all that storage. Now I understand how that works. You are definitely a better boat remodeler then I would be. Keep up the great work. Hi Ava.
Thank you Mads for the video. As always very informative and always a little trick can be found in the video when you pay close attention. I have never seen the sailing trick done with a pencil and stick like you did. So simple and efficient. Take care and have a great week ahead.
Another reason to consider sealing in the limber holes is as the wood decays it will crumble and cause you to be ever cleaning small bits of wood from your bildge...can you imagine the number of ruined bildge pumps? Worn out impellers?
Mads,
I am liking how she is coming together! The kerfed plywood is going to look great!
One thing I would strongly suggest you consider is also raidusing the inside corners of your seating, this allows people to sit in the corner, it will let you get another 1-2 people at the table if you are packed.
Time to make some popcorn, scoop up some ice cream, and enjoy some boat building! I'm gonna miss this sunday tradition when you're done!
Hello Mads, Just a thought on using two part poly paint in the bilges. Anywhere that you will have standing water you should switch to gel-coat, epoxy paint, or even enamel. Polyurethane will fail if standing water is left on it for more than about 72 hours. At least that is Awlgrips advice, and my experience. Two parts are a bit more resistant to failing as compared to one parts, but still should not be submerged. I have really enjoyed watching your progress. It motivates me with my project. I'm 3/4 of the way through building a 61' sailboat from a bare hull myself. Watching someone else suffering the itch of sanding glass warms my heart. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Tim Oh, and if you ever get to the Annapolis, Maryland area in the states, you should look me up and come check out my shop and boat project.
You talk great and show clearly. The best vlog about the construction of yachts
Mads, cliffhanger or not this was a great video. I find myself really invested in the water tank project. How nerdy is that? Man, I just like your calm style and Swedish attention to detail!
Every week I just get more amazed at the skill set you have developed. I'm currently and very slowly reworking my old Pearson 424 and you are an inspiration.
I'm a complete sail life addict now. I discovered sail life a few months ago and binge watched up to date (after purchasing my own 26` sailboat). One thing that sticks in my head is when you were talking about one thing missing is a woman that loves sailboat DIY and the thought of cruising and living on a boat....but hey, you can't have everything...….hang on, you've found her....well done Mads!Great videos, you've come a long way since your first videos, I can't wait to see Athena completed and look forward to watching your cruising adventures.Keep up the great work.
Always a pleasure to spend Sunday afternoons with our favorite Danish Glassman!!!
Best show on youtube ! Thanks Mads :)
Progress! It's beginning to look so spiffy.
It's great that it's warm enough that you can just build what you need to quickly. It's starting to look like a boat cabin again, cheers!
WOW ! no more glass to layup? God bless you , life is great and you are really getting into the good stuff !
LOVE LOVE watching your channel! bought a sailboat 3 years ago and she's been sitting in annapolis since. i need to go get her because i am in South Carolina. i've been panicking that i haven't had the money to go get her. this is inspiration as well as knowing she's ok and i may just have to do a little work on her when i get her. thank you so much for sharing. i watch as i'm going to bed so i can dream about happy things like picking up my boat and going sailing! gonna start watching ALL from the beginning!!
Great stuff Mads - I'm going to cheer loudly when the last of the hull is glassed and you can put that all behind you. So much nicer to be building new than repairing old!
I never get tired of watching you work, there is always progress and you manage to stay positive! Keep up the great work and quality of your videos!
This boat is going to be the sturdiest warrior 38 on the water.
I am fascinated with your work. I am a cabinetmaker. I have never built on a boat but the process is very interesting. Can’t wait wait until you can be together with your love. From Arkansas.
I like the double curve plan. no sharp corners and it will save a little bit of space!
Nice work Mads, done with thought and fore-site, in other words, very "spiffy" workmanship, getting closer every day.
I love the idea of the curved seating.
Hard corners should be avoided where ever possible, anything that reduces shin bruising is worthwhile.
Cliffhanger, argh!!!! It's hard enough waiting for Sunday evening to roll around now we have to wait for the kerfing exercises as well.
Keep up the good work, Athena is going to be a beautiful home for the both of you.
Thanks for sharing your adventures.
I never knew 'waiting for paint to dry' could be so entertaining and interesting. Thank you for another spiffy video Mads :)
Mads, I have to ask, how is dog dear doing? Jøkel had that double whammy and I hope is ok.
you can do it I believe in you man
can not wait until next weekend. !!!!!!!
Another incredible DIY video. I can't wait to watch you (RE)do the electrical panels. Your slight OCD really comes to the surface. BTW, the need for a AC source select panel is really not needed unless you have the intention of adding a generator, which I don't see the need for. Most modern Inverters are "pass through" and permit the shore power to pass through when connected. Just make sure the inverter has a stand-alone service disconnect switch.
I worked at my parents cabinet shop in the 80s and we made curved sections the same way. Nice job
First, love the prime & paint on interior, great detail. Glueing the floor to the ribs, another great detail that adds am enormous amount of strength. Epoxy the holes, just because the wood is moist now, doesn't mean you should speed the process. Mix some epoxy & seal that wood up, then you will have more time of more strength, like glueing the floor. Love the idea of hatches later for storage, great thinking. Keep working hard & thanks for sharing
Excellent job !!! It is looking great.
Congratulations on 60k subscribers!
The curved plywood is going to look so beautiful.
Of all the RUclipsrs I subscribe to, you are the one I most look forward to each week. Keep up the spiffy work!!!!
That little spot under the water tank would be perfect for the fuel for your Reflex stove.
Keep fuel and their fumes out of the bilge.... Ka-Boom!
I really like the look of the big radios
Brilliant! Love this whole refit!
So looking forward to doing my wheelhouse. Thanks for the inspiration!
Waited all morning for my Sail Life fix. Thanks Mads!
I love your videos, they relax me incredibly :)
Thank you for another lovely video
The double radius will look great. Smear some thickened epoxy around the edges of the weeper holes, that should protect/seal the end grain in the plywood to keep it from wicking up moisture.
Pretty dang spiffy work as always!
Nice, making lots of great progress,. That white really brightens thing up a bunch.
When you get ready to do the access panels, embedded re-magnets make great no hardware latching systems. Just be sure to fully encase the magnet in epoxy so they don't disintegrate from moisture.
The problem with magnets is, if the boat ever gets rolled over by a wave, the weight of the stuff inside will be too much for the magnets, and the whole lot will fall out, landing on the head of whoever is inside. Proper, strong latches are the only way to go. *Everything* needs to be properly secured. Number one rule of designing and building a boat interior is "think inverted."
Are you planning on glassing down the inboard edge of the cabin sole sections along the longitudinal stringer? That would give you the fourth side of the box, and those two boxes (one on each side of the boat) will be crazy strong in resisting torsional stresses. You won't lose much strength at all be cutting in your access hatches.
Thanks for the tip on radiusing ply.
great VIDEO
hi your boat is going very good .
I hope you are getting adequate ventilation in there while you work. Even if the paint/primer has dried it won't stop off-gassing instantly. I am paying for years of different chemical exposures from automotive repair with a respiratory sensitivity that means no bug sprays and no to most household cleaners never mind the stuff I used while working. Those would leave me in a near migraine condition. Please be smarter than I was. I know it hurt a little tearing out your old work but you will do even better when you remodel the cabin and the experience gained from all your electrical work will pay off in spades. Keep looking up because no one accomplished much staring at their shoes. :)
"Ahhhh glorious paint and epoxy fumes, huh, what mannnnn....."
yet again, great work
Great video as always, when you are using the track saw to make the repetaive scoring cuts you can get a track square which would allow you to just mark out the cut spacing and slide along making the cuts as opposed to marking them out with a square and then having toline up the track on your lines. You may have this and I simply didn't notice it but a useful tool if you don't have it.
Best content. Keep coming back. Keep doing it
i love your eternal optimism!
Mas, This video couldn't have come at a better time! I'm trying to rebuild one of my two settees to make it into a pull out double bunk. I only have room to do it on one side of the boat because the doorway is offset. I want to elimate the hard corner and replace it with a radius because it will be so close to the doorway and I do not want people bumping their shins on it. I had no idea how to make a radius in plywood. Thanks this was invaluable to me and I'm sure others as well! As always, love to watch you work. Did you ever think about either doing two videos a week or longer videos? I'm sure we'd all love to see more!!
I almost want to start a betting pool whether or not you quit and sail when Athena is done, or start a new re-fit.
Wishing you all the success, sir!
Great to see the interior of the cabin start together. I can't believe that we have to wait until next week to find out how the curve turns out.🙄
The problem with leaving the decaying wood exposed in the limber holes is that you will get a tannic mess every time they weep.
titanic!!!! i see what you did there....
@@pezpengy9308 Tannic bleeds out of wood and leaves (think tea) I did nothing there!
Great progress this week Mads! I reckon if you keep going at this rate you'll be splashing this time next year - two years time!
Looking great! Thank you for the video, I enjoy watching the progress.
Absolutely recover the storage space beneath the sole. You can never have too much storage. Never!
Another great video Mads. I agree with most of the other comments that you should go ahead and seal the weep holes now. It will never be easier than now and better safer than sorry.
Excellent as always. Regarding the tank I'd go with one curve piece. I think it will look much better.
Carl Petersen No 2 curves is way spiffier , Mads if you’re reading this. Everything is better in two :)
Just one curve might look nicer, but I'd personally go with two because it leaves more room for the legs to enter and exit the sitting bench.
two curves. why? because its harder. :P
I'm with you Carl, I think the upholstery guy would agree too!
Two curves. Not just for the legs in and out but because it’s next to that already small entrance to the forward birth. That one big curve sticking out would be a shin buster underway.
Mads now you have 60K subscribers we do not expect you to reply to every comment - there are not enough hours in the day to do that.!😳 That said here is my offering:
1. I know you did not go into great detail about tank mounting and securing but hope you keep the bottom of the tank off the sole on bearers, so that air can circulate maybe even drill some vent holes through the sole?
2. Considering storage under the sole - I wonder if you could source good quality plastic boxes with locking lids that could be let into the sole ( they could have lifting straps fixed to them). You could be lucky and have equal sized ones that fit every bay. The advantages of this arrangement would be it would be easier to retrieve stored goods, it would give quick access if there should ever be damage and it would avoid stored goods being damaged by flood water - which commonly happens on yachts!.
Hope this is helpful.😀👍⛵️ You are making fantastic progress.👍
Might want to rethink sealing the weep holes. There are varieties of cockroaches and other bugs in more southern climates that eat wet rotting wood or find them very good living quarters.
Why do anything half assed now. Def fill those drain holes. Good comment about bugs and also i would glass the top of that ply because its the right thing to do. Then epoxy any exposed ply end grain before paint cause thats also right.
But if not sure it will last 30 years and youre kid will have to rip it all out when it delaminates.
My 43 year old tayana girl is now doing the thing i am talking about.
@@sailingsolo5290 That is what is strange to me. All the tedious hours upon hours ofwork he does and than not do something that will take minutes to do.
Just this morning I have seen one of your earlier videos where you have shown the Laguna table mount on Obelix.... It is remarkable how you have developed since then.
Great job Mads!
I started following your channel when I became the owner of an Albin Ballad and needed practical info on a couple of issues (info I found in your channel) and today your videos are the las joy of the week before Monday arrives. Thanks for that and keep it coming!!
your video's are constantly impressive Mads keep up the great work!
I feel like all your work for all week long flys by in just a short 22 min lol. As always i enjoy your vids bud!!
I think the amount of former structural core exposed by the ample limber holes will facilitate the eventual drying out of the wood over a number of years as it slowly wicks out, if the boat is constantly kept bone dry inside.
With your previous efforts fixing the deck leaks, and redoing that awful Warrior factory deck to hull joint disaster, this will be pretty easy, especially with new and properly installed port lights keeping out day-to-day rain and spray.
I believe smell will not be much of a problem with the wet core any more than it is on any typical cruising boat, especially in the tropics. Keeping the boat dry inside, and watching the humidity constantly with adequate ventilation will be key. In colder climates adequate inschulation (lol - I couldn't help myself) will be your friend keeping condensation at bay. With good heating systems that ia not a problem anyhow as I'm sure you are aware of with Obelix and your diesel heater.
Finally, tea tree oil formulations, like Kanberra gel, do wonders to alleviate boat smells -especially on boats lived in full time. We go though a little less than a gallon of the stuff a year. We feel it is just another budget item that makes living on a boat bearable.
unfortunately I didn't make it up to Skive this year to give you a hand - Ærøskøbing was the best I could do. Good that you consider to have the spaces below the cabin sole to be accesable. Thanks for your excellent DIY videos - the inspector
Probably too late now but we found the L shaped galley to be the best design for long distance cruising. Easier to stay close to the stove and less chance of being thrown around.
As always you do great work and really think it out!!!!
Great work matey!!
👍 and a nice hair cut too. See you next week.
From what I understand, every screw through fiberglass into wood is a way for moisture to get into the wood and cause rot long term. Especially since you now have a pathway from the wet/rotten beams to the cabin sole.
Would it be better to remove the screws afterwards and then fill up the holes with epoxy in a syringe?
Or should you avoid screws altogether?
Or is that just rather irrelevant?
I would do a single curve to match the other side / other radius in the boat. Larger radius should be easier and look nicer too I think.
Thanks for the video!
great work for sure looks like you do this for a living, was going to say why are the sections you reinforced not sealed on top as well then water couldn't get in, reason must be if it gets hole from outside it won't be able to get drained
Great work again Madds
Excellent as always.
Have you considered heat and vacuuming the chambers to try and draw moisture out. Hard to quantify your success but might be interesting...
I would hope that the old wood might dry out with time by giving it a path to atmosphere.
While the tank is in the shop, perhaps have them add clean-out/inspection access on the other side of the baffles?
Beautiful!!
That is good work.
The template idea for the hatches is a good idea. I free handed mine and they are a bit shit.
I don't know who these people are who are leaving thumbs down, but they're dicks! Been watching you for well over a year now Mads. Keep it up. It'll be an amazing boat when it's done
Awesome work Mads! I really liked the curving bit, looking forward to seeing the big piece.
Great video.
Love your work, but I think it would be a good idea to seal the limber holes now while you have easy access to them. Debris from the wood when it does finally rot could become an issue if it clogs/seizes a bilge pump or prevents a float switch from moving.
What kind of hatch pulls are you thinking of using, and most importantly, how's Jökull doing?!
Throw in some vertical supports on the deck too!
I enjoy watching these videos and the methodical planning and execution. What is the pipe running through the bilge and have you confirmed its condition for re-use for whatever?
You may want to try one of these as a scribing tools Aristo AR55429AZ Professional High Precision Flip Case Full Metal Compasses with Spindle Guide, Extension Pole with Universal Adapter and after you finish building your Boat you can use it for Navigation . I used one when i used to build boats . Well Nothing as small as Athena but it should still work.
Hey Mads, your workmanship is exceptional as per usual!
I have a quick query, you mention when the last rotten rib is laminated on the hull in the saloon then that's it for all the ribs in the boat... What is your plan for the remaining rotten ribs fore and aft of the saloon...?
Love your show
Thank you so much