This is a good demo Tom. The problem with adding noise ( grain ) digitally is that the software applies it equally across the image. This is not how film works. The grain is usually more evident in the mid to high tones. The appearnce of grain in the shadows is rather more suppressed. In a digital simulation, once you close into the shadows all you get is something very similar to digital noise. The other issue with digital files is that unnaturally high edge contrast. This is something that fools 98% of photographers into thinking that the image is super sharp. Film does not exhibit this menace, even if a high acutance developer were used. I find that by reducing the calrity selectively, a compromise of a sort can be achieved. In the final analysis, Fuji can put out hundreds of ' film simulations ', but in practice it does not look like B&W film at all, the simulations do better with colour I have to say. When I do feel that I have to simulate film, I use the DXO Optics NIK pack. Not cheap, but there is much more control over the conversions than what LR has to offer, and the grain simulation is a bit more realistic than just digital noise. Looking forward to your film photography.
Wow thank you, some really useful information in there. I find your vast photographic knowledge very impressive and I always appreciate your time to comment on the videos. Many thanks Tom 🙏
There are far better ways to process B&W depending on how much you enjoy processing lol I know its all subjective, but the best method i have found is you want to create tonal separation, and those settings there are global which is too heavy handed. If you dont have PS but just LR, I would lift the shadows all the way and the hightlights down all the way, and use localised adjustments using the masks. Also white balance and colour have huge impact on B&W processing, so you want to make sure you have those set first.
Lovely job Tom. Learned a few techniques here as I too relish my Nikon FE2 shooting experience over digital. I’ve just recently bought the Nikon ZF and am loving the digital experience with adapted old Nikon glass. Your brief tutorial is the icing on the cake for me, touching up the digital shots for film output is all I was missing. Thanks for your insights✌️👍
Thanks very much, I love the look of the new Nikon it’s a beautiful camera. I’m really glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful. Happy shooting. All the best Tom 🙂
Hi Tom I’m new to your channel. I enjoyed this thank you. My experience trying to make digital (B&W) photos look like film in LR has been hit and miss until lately when I discovered the huge (to me) benefits of judicious use of the texture slider (an increase of c15) in conjunction with a reduction in clarity. I find like you that more grain than one might think of using is key but LR just applies it as a ‘blanket’ over the top and you lose the lovely effect with film where the grain is less apparent on sharper edges and they ‘pop’ out of the rest of the grain so nicely. I’ve found that adding some texture sorts it out, giving sharper edges without the slightly sledgehammer effect of clarity. I also use dehaze on linear gradients on flat skies; this brings out tones I often didn’t realise were there. Like the intersecting linear grad - thanks - haven’t tried that before.
Hi Ben, thanks very much. I’m definitely going to try out your suggestions next time I’m in Lightroom. I really appreciate your feedback and ideas. Many thanks Tom 🙏
This is a good demo Tom. The problem with adding noise ( grain ) digitally is that the software applies it equally across the image. This is not how film works. The grain is usually more evident in the mid to high tones. The appearnce of grain in the shadows is rather more suppressed. In a digital simulation, once you close into the shadows all you get is something very similar to digital noise. The other issue with digital files is that unnaturally high edge contrast. This is something that fools 98% of photographers into thinking that the image is super sharp. Film does not exhibit this menace, even if a high acutance developer were used. I find that by reducing the calrity selectively, a compromise of a sort can be achieved. In the final analysis, Fuji can put out hundreds of ' film simulations ', but in practice it does not look like B&W film at all, the simulations do better with colour I have to say. When I do feel that I have to simulate film, I use the DXO Optics NIK pack. Not cheap, but there is much more control over the conversions than what LR has to offer, and the grain simulation is a bit more realistic than just digital noise. Looking forward to your film photography.
Wow thank you, some really useful information in there. I find your vast photographic knowledge very impressive and I always appreciate your time to comment on the videos.
Many thanks Tom 🙏
I love black and white photographs. Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks very much 🙏
There are far better ways to process B&W depending on how much you enjoy processing lol I know its all subjective, but the best method i have found is you want to create tonal separation, and those settings there are global which is too heavy handed.
If you dont have PS but just LR, I would lift the shadows all the way and the hightlights down all the way, and use localised adjustments using the masks. Also white balance and colour have huge impact on B&W processing, so you want to make sure you have those set first.
Glad to see black and white is still your calling!
Thank you, very informative loved the shots and the way you showed how to do the lightroom adjustments. ❤
Thank you, I’m really happy you found it helpful 👍
Tom thanks again! It’s nice to seeing you back again!!
Thanks very much 🙂
Lovely job Tom. Learned a few techniques here as I too relish my Nikon FE2 shooting experience over digital. I’ve just recently bought the Nikon ZF and am loving the digital experience with adapted old Nikon glass. Your brief tutorial is the icing on the cake for me, touching up the digital shots for film output is all I was missing. Thanks for your insights✌️👍
Thanks very much, I love the look of the new Nikon it’s a beautiful camera. I’m really glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful.
Happy shooting.
All the best Tom 🙂
Thanks Tom some lovely images there.
Thank you 🙏
Hi Tom I’m new to your channel. I enjoyed this thank you. My experience trying to make digital (B&W) photos look like film in LR has been hit and miss until lately when I discovered the huge (to me) benefits of judicious use of the texture slider (an increase of c15) in conjunction with a reduction in clarity. I find like you that more grain than one might think of using is key but LR just applies it as a ‘blanket’ over the top and you lose the lovely effect with film where the grain is less apparent on sharper edges and they ‘pop’ out of the rest of the grain so nicely. I’ve found that adding some texture sorts it out, giving sharper edges without the slightly sledgehammer effect of clarity. I also use dehaze on linear gradients on flat skies; this brings out tones I often didn’t realise were there. Like the intersecting linear grad - thanks - haven’t tried that before.
Hi Ben, thanks very much. I’m definitely going to try out your suggestions next time I’m in Lightroom. I really appreciate your feedback and ideas.
Many thanks Tom 🙏
Great video Tom, interesting and informative - thank you for uploading. Btw, you're looking particularly fit and healthy since your big move. Atb.
Thanks very much its really appreciated 🙏
could have done with a red filter great pics cheers
Thank you, I do love a red filter 🙏
yer i use mine all the timei try to do as much in camera cheers@@tomwhelan
Nice editing but remember it's still a digital image!
Of course a scanned film image edited becomes a digital image also!
Thank you, I miss printing in the darkroom. It looks like digital for a while 🙏