Hi, for your bed adhesion, when using 60 degrees, let the bed cool down and the part should pop more easly and you still get good adhesion, especially for big parts like you want to do... Hope it helps, thanks for all the videos dans ideas!
Looking forward to the reloading video. Setup a bench and hand loading system myself and the only recommendation is to take it slow and make double sure on your powder in each load. Blowing up is not fun and I have watched it happen at our range on sight in days.
- Roughness on the sides and blobs around the edges is from over-extrusion - you're putting out too much plastic. - Gaps on the bottom needs to have the 1st layer extrusion width increased - 230% over the 1st layer height is a good start - Keep the temperature up to 60C for the bed - you do NOT want your print coming off during printing, hard to pop off at the end is a 'good thing' although not so stuck you damage the print or the machine trying to extract it.
Safety Sally says; "did you get a dry chemical, a Co2 and a water based fire extinguisher for every room?". 😁 Are you visiting the Wranglerstar homestead, or are they in extreme lockdown isolation mode? 🤔 Oh BTW, did you ever see Cody from Cody's Lab when he replicated the potato blowout accident exactly as it was on the film "The Martian" and found that all was not lost, and he was able to get a couple of his frozen, subjected to vacuum pressures to regrow! Obviously NASA needs to employ big brained people like yourself & Cody! 🖒
For prints not sticking, and that have the bottom layer lines not filled in entirely you need to lower the Z offset. (Have the nozzle start closer to the bed so it will squish the plastic onto the bed more.
@@jake1021 extrusion width since he's trying to print really fast, but it might be both the width and the starting Z. it looks like underextrusion because of such an insane layer height and 2.75mm filament.
Fire Extinguishers are great. But... If there's one thing I had hammered into me as a youth was don't use fire extinguishers. Also was taught this by the boys as an engineering apprentice. If you have to use an extinguisher you have to do paper work explaining yourself. So be damn sure you need it if you are forced to use one! 😅😬
5:09 u went from thinking you're too far away from bed still to thinking maybe you're under extruding a bit. I'd run a higher % infill obviously. Also check your first layer speed, is it slower than the rest? 7:30... Still bed adhesion problems. You using glue stick? Is it a heated bed? Hair spray? 8:30 ok beds heated, cool ya I'd call that under extrusion 9:40 just do mm you know it's easier haha 10:40 you're going to have warping issues surprised the 25% didn't start to, saving grace was it's still thin. 12:00 looks like first layer is pretty slow so disregard previous comment about that. You're doing great learning curve is kinda fun but can be frustrating. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it.
Thats a PEI bed, no adhesive. His best bet is to actually use the rough side of a sponge and just clean it with soap and water, and he should acetone it weekly.
For PLA you have to actually use like 60% virgin material to 40% recycled. Its inefficient and actually creates a worse product. PLA (Polylactic Acid) is made from fermented corn or sugarcane.
Jeff, It looks like you’re using PLA. I recently printed some parts for my truck then learned that PLA is not ideal for outdoor use because it ingests water. From what I read, it’s not that the plastic absorbs water, but the print isn’t watertight, so water finds its way into the infill cavities. Others more knowledgeable than me may be able to comment. I’m assuming a “grow wall” is going to be exposed to water.....it might end up being heavier than planned after it gets saturated. There are other materials that do better in wet environments.
PLA is hydroscopic which means it will absorb moisture from the air (like silicon packets). Shouldn't really affect the parts once printed. Pla prints will warp badly with drastic changes in temperature after printed.
Long time 3d printer here. The biggest down side to PLA in Jeff's use is its glass point. its glass point is way too low for the use that he's using it for, Its going to sag in a hot, humid trailer in the middle of the summer. The other downside to something like PLA is that it will weep water, but thats a problem for MOST 3d printed solutions, unless you vapor smooth it (like ABS or polysmooth), or you up your extrusion width like crazy so that water cant go in between the layers. Having a 3d print get water tight is going to be a problem regardless unless he has tiny layers, good overlap on extrusions, etc. My suggestion to fix both a low glass point, and water tightness, is to just use ABS and vapor seal it. And to be clear, Nothing 3d printed is ever going to be "food safe". And with PLA having an enclosure is a BAD thing. You could use hairspray, no heated bed, no enclosure and get a perfect print, and with that enclosure its basically intended for ABS.
Hi, for your bed adhesion, when using 60 degrees, let the bed cool down and the part should pop more easly and you still get good adhesion, especially for big parts like you want to do... Hope it helps, thanks for all the videos dans ideas!
Man... I was wanting to get into reloading too! You beat me to the punch on everything.
i'm not there yet lol
@@TheRealMartian Well, at least I have a new computer built. The last one made it 9 years and this one will be driving the 3d printer :)
Thumbs up again Jeff! 👍😁
Looking forward to the reloading video. Setup a bench and hand loading system myself and the only recommendation is to take it slow and make double sure on your powder in each load. Blowing up is not fun and I have watched it happen at our range on sight in days.
- Roughness on the sides and blobs around the edges is from over-extrusion - you're putting out too much plastic.
- Gaps on the bottom needs to have the 1st layer extrusion width increased - 230% over the 1st layer height is a good start
- Keep the temperature up to 60C for the bed - you do NOT want your print coming off during printing, hard to pop off at the end is a 'good thing' although not so stuck you damage the print or the machine trying to extract it.
Ok a series on its own would probably be great on reloading. From never done it to getting it done....
I'm not sure how much youtube would like that tho, I know in general they hate gun content...
I dont know if you already mentioned what materials you are using, but whenever i use PLA it doesnt like printing in an enclosure.
Safety Sally says; "did you get a dry chemical, a Co2 and a water based fire extinguisher for every room?". 😁
Are you visiting the Wranglerstar homestead, or are they in extreme lockdown isolation mode? 🤔
Oh BTW, did you ever see Cody from Cody's Lab when he replicated the potato blowout accident exactly as it was on the film "The Martian" and found that all was not lost, and he was able to get a couple of his frozen, subjected to vacuum pressures to regrow!
Obviously NASA needs to employ big brained people like yourself & Cody! 🖒
Time-lapse camera for the printer would be cool.
They have programs that do timelapses on each layer, its called "Octoprint" Look into youtube channels like WildRose Builds
great video . cool stuff.
Thanks 👍
Reloading manuals. 2 or 3 different ones will do you good
For prints not sticking, and that have the bottom layer lines not filled in entirely you need to lower the Z offset. (Have the nozzle start closer to the bed so it will squish the plastic onto the bed more.
I was thinking that too, but I think he's got a lot of gap all over the print, I think it could be under extruding. Hbu?
@@jake1021 extrusion width since he's trying to print really fast, but it might be both the width and the starting Z. it looks like underextrusion because of such an insane layer height and 2.75mm filament.
Fire Extinguishers are great. But...
If there's one thing I had hammered into me as a youth was don't use fire extinguishers. Also was taught this by the boys as an engineering apprentice.
If you have to use an extinguisher you have to do paper work explaining yourself. So be damn sure you need it if you are forced to use one! 😅😬
What are you making?
5:09 u went from thinking you're too far away from bed still to thinking maybe you're under extruding a bit. I'd run a higher % infill obviously. Also check your first layer speed, is it slower than the rest?
7:30... Still bed adhesion problems. You using glue stick? Is it a heated bed? Hair spray?
8:30 ok beds heated, cool ya I'd call that under extrusion
9:40 just do mm you know it's easier haha
10:40 you're going to have warping issues surprised the 25% didn't start to, saving grace was it's still thin.
12:00 looks like first layer is pretty slow so disregard previous comment about that.
You're doing great learning curve is kinda fun but can be frustrating. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it.
Thats a PEI bed, no adhesive. His best bet is to actually use the rough side of a sponge and just clean it with soap and water, and he should acetone it weekly.
The only safety Sally thing I'll say is I hope you get a larger fire extinguisher for upstairs. Haha
Can you recycle the print material?
He said previously that you can have like a shredder to be able to use the material again, but it cost to much. But the material is recyclable.
For PLA you have to actually use like 60% virgin material to 40% recycled. Its inefficient and actually creates a worse product. PLA (Polylactic Acid) is made from fermented corn or sugarcane.
Jeff, It looks like you’re using PLA. I recently printed some parts for my truck then learned that PLA is not ideal for outdoor use because it ingests water. From what I read, it’s not that the plastic absorbs water, but the print isn’t watertight, so water finds its way into the infill cavities. Others more knowledgeable than me may be able to comment.
I’m assuming a “grow wall” is going to be exposed to water.....it might end up being heavier than planned after it gets saturated.
There are other materials that do better in wet environments.
PLA is hydroscopic which means it will absorb moisture from the air (like silicon packets). Shouldn't really affect the parts once printed. Pla prints will warp badly with drastic changes in temperature after printed.
Long time 3d printer here. The biggest down side to PLA in Jeff's use is its glass point. its glass point is way too low for the use that he's using it for, Its going to sag in a hot, humid trailer in the middle of the summer. The other downside to something like PLA is that it will weep water, but thats a problem for MOST 3d printed solutions, unless you vapor smooth it (like ABS or polysmooth), or you up your extrusion width like crazy so that water cant go in between the layers. Having a 3d print get water tight is going to be a problem regardless unless he has tiny layers, good overlap on extrusions, etc. My suggestion to fix both a low glass point, and water tightness, is to just use ABS and vapor seal it. And to be clear, Nothing 3d printed is ever going to be "food safe". And with PLA having an enclosure is a BAD thing. You could use hairspray, no heated bed, no enclosure and get a perfect print, and with that enclosure its basically intended for ABS.
I am not seeing a Hazcom binder anywhere. What if someone want's to see SDS's? Don't make Safety Sally report you to L&I. :)
oh man...damn...totally forgot lol lol lol
Extinguishers are mounted to high. Safety Sally should have told you they need to mounted be chest high.
please for the love of god use mm/s