You are correct but it's also very useful with digital photography as well. These digital cameras have come a long way but incident meters measure light falling on the subject vs reflective light which comes from the scene. Light meter is far more accurate.
The percentage scale on the meter shows you the ratio of flash to ambient too that way you get to see what your style measures at. 20% 25% 30% etc 100% is no ambient light and the exposure at the model is all flash. Knowing this helps you go straight to your preferred ratio everytime. Hope that makes sense. Love your work keep it up.
Personally I think light meters are a relic from the past, back from the film days. Film was expensive, especially for video. You had to know how to use a light meter to get the right exposure for the film you were using. There was no easy way to check the image on the fly to see if it was properly exposed. With the advent of digital, you could review your images and make adjustments as you shot. With mirrorless, it's even easier to make adjustments on the fly.
You still need a light meter for to measure light ratios when using flashes, or even constant light sources for that matter. Light meters help with consistency in flash work.
The model just simply standing there looking all annoyed. In her thoughts, she's saying. "Dude hurry the F. up! I have things to do today..." good video.
Shooting outside with flash always makes me think of the wedding photographers before digital. They would be out there working with maybe a Hasselblad or a Bronica camera with a bare bulb flash on top or on a flash bracket. They flashed every shot, indoor or outside. There was no such thing as test shots but this is what they did for a living and they always came away with beautiful negatives. One time a family member tight on her wedding budget asked if I could photograph her wedding. I did not want to. I was an amateur hobbyist photographer not a wedding photographer, I was afraid of the responsibility involved. She told me she is not expecting professional photographs, just a recording of the day. I reluctantly agreed. I went to see my friend Jim who was a wonderful and very experienced wedding photographer. I asked him about setting exposures for flash outdoors. He said to me, It’s super easy. Pick the aperture you want to shoot at, say F8, now meter the outdoor scene to get your shutter speed for F8 and set your flash for the F8 range. Back then they were the auto thyristor type of flashes, similar to TTL but the great thing about them is they worked with any camera and were pretty accurate. I got my Hasselblad all ready with the 45 degree prism finder and my Sunpak J-120 flash on a flash bracket. I followed his instructions. I worked real hard that day under stress to take a collection of photographs that would record the important moments in chronological order. I used a pro lab that did work for all the pro wedding photographers in my area for processing and printing. We wound up with beautiful wedding photographs. Thirty years later I still look at them when I visit and they still look great and no one would know that an amateur took them because they turned out quite professional looking.
I used to use a light meter, only to get quickly to get the right exposure. But a light meter only does that, not your creative look. Especially if your tethered to your laptop, your screen is your light meter, as you see the exposure on 💻. Another word eyeballing it allows you to be more creative. There is no right or wrong.
That was just to explain how it works. I didn't like how they looked at F2 since she was posing at various angles. The shots came out soft for my tastes so I went to f8.
I am curious as to why you didn't measure the ambient light with your light meter. I have watched other similar videos and everyone is measuring ambient with the camera. Is there a reason for this?
That is not how your light meter works. You are using a Sekonic 858 wich gives you a reading in tenth of stops. The reading is giving you 2.0 7. This means f2 + 7/10 which is around f2.5. You can change settins to use it in third of stops but if you use it as a radio transmitter you can only use it in tenth of stops and be aware of it for correct exposure. Example f2 0 is f2. f2 1 is closer to F2 but f2 2 is closer to f2.2 and f2 3 is f2.2. f2 9 would be almost f2.8 and f2 10 would be 2.8
Exactly. People that say things like:. The meter takes away my fun and creativity from photography doesn't know how to use a light meter or are afraid to learn.
Very nice and helpful! Yes, when I’m using flash only inside studio, I rarely use the meter, but outside, I find I can dial it in more quickly! I have to agree you don’t need it but for me it helps to get there within two test shots! :)
I feel you. For one flash, I feel like the meter isn’t necessary. I would say a light meter is more important for video when you match multiple cameras
No power levels are a function of the specific strobe/speedlight. Most older strobes/speedlights use fractions Starting low power could be 1/256, 1/128, 1/64 and so on up to 1/1 (full power), these are whole stops of light. It's really pretty simple. If your light shoots TTL then it's even easier you'd use FEC (flash exposure compensation) to dial in the look you want. Everything that he does to dial in the background is the same you'd just use FEC to dial in the flash instead of the flash power level. Hope this helps
That was just to demonstrate how it's done. I didn't like the look of F2, so I metered for f8 (it's in the b-roll before the images show up) and went from there 👍
Thanks for the video. I would say, learning to use the light meter is another good photographic skill to have. Agreed using one light and shooting digital, especially mirrorless cameras you can get away without using it. Multiple lights in or out of the studio changing lenses and moving strobes around. It’s a good tool to have for accuracy and repeatable results. Shooting commercial or product a meter and a color checker are strong choices. I shoot mixed digital and film and sometimes just film, having my Sekonic meter is great!
That's one of many reasons that I dislike showing raw photos in my videos. Things like that happen all the time, and of course are removed in post. I think it was sap from a tree she was posing on. 🤷
each to their own and all that.... but anyone who has shot with models, or any humans for that matter, can tell you... their attention span on a photo shoot is very VERY short. In the time you've taken to meter the light with a light meter, they've got bored and zoned out!! The flash output can be judged by a few test shots, and with some luck and experience, you might actually nail at first go. And by doing so, you've kept interaction with your subject. And unless you know what the flash reading actually means (it is metering for reproduction of mid grey) you actually may need to fine tune anyway, after first few test shots anyway. If your shooting digital, spend your money on more useful gear, like another light or modifiers.
How about a video where you are shooting in bright ambient light, but you want the background dark and shoot more wide open. Using a ND filter, or HSS (but if you are using and AD200 and HSS drops power by 1 stop or more and you don't have enough power, using ND Filter to darken the background but still allowing you to shoot at full power not going into HSS. How do you balance all that stuff even with a single light. I have seen others do this but they don't explain the process of getting the exposure right.
It's much quicker using the meter. If you know how to count stops you can dial the strobe in within 2 shots. I mean dial it in accurately within 2 shots.
as a new photographer this mini series of Flash Photography for portraits has been extremely helpful, do you mind doing a tutorial of photographing Quinceneras and Brides...I feel that it requires certain details to keep in mind with the long dresses, and the lighting whether indoor or out doors...also dealing with people in popular spots, I hope you get to read this request I would greatly appreciate...all your products i have them on my wishlist to buy that are below this video btw
How can we trigger the light when testing without always taking the trigger off the camera? Do you carry a second trigger for that? And if so do you have to constantly change its settings to match changes made to the lighting with the trigger on the camera? Hope thus makes some sense..lol Thanks!
I always use my old Sekonic light meter. I had some transmitters custom made for Profoto and Hensel strobes so I can trigger the strobe with the lightmeter which is quite comfortable. Just one question to you @Miguel Quiles What kind of foldable trolley are you using that is in the background? I was researching for those and there are tons of options but I struggle to find a good one.
I'll tell you the REAL "correct" method for balancing ambient with flash on location: The method that gets you the shot you want. ;) It doesn't matter if you use a light meter or not. I use a light meter in studio, but on location I do it by feel. The most important thing is that you are being intentional about how you want it to look and that you are producing the best results possible for your clients. Happy shooting!
Totally understand what you are saying, but I like to start from a base of accuracy then I can start my creative process. The light meter gets you where you want to be quicker than eye balling the situation. The back of that screen as failed me plenty of times.
From a client standpoint, getting a great shot is important but at the same time, time is money. If I'm paying you a rate of $300 an hour, I don't want you spending an hour eye balling it. When you start thinking professionally, getting accurate results quickly is just as important as getting a great shot especially if you want to be hired again by the client.
Some people like to know what gear is being used, sorry if that isn't something of interest to you. If I don't mention it I'll get a ton of questions in the comments that I will never have time to get around to answering, which is why it's covered in the video. Thanks for watching either way 👍
Great video, very helpful. I like your earnest approach and telling it how you see it in your years of experience. Can't argue with the results! Subscribed as this is like the 5th video I've seen of yours. Just got into photo with an EOS RP and you're helping me greatly.
Love your stuff Miguel, Another point that should be made is that flash synch speed does not play a roll in exposure in flash photography, and that it is your aperture that will determine your exposure.
Great Video MiggyQ! I relocated to Florida. Would love to take you out to lunch to chat and meet you. You are very busy and I won't take too much of your time.
That's funny you say that. How does using a light meter take the fun out of photography? What if a client loves how you took a particular shot and wants that same identical lighting. How will you achieve that if you don't remember the light settings especially if you used multiple lights? You will taking forever trying to duplicate that look. If you had a light meter and recorded your ratios you will get that look every time. What if you were working with a client and they said I want a 4:1 ratio between the key and rim lights? How will you know that you are achieving that ratio if you are having FUN guessing the ratios?
@@rbj.photography I said in my opinion. I shoot as a hobby (street photography & use flash sometimes), not as a profession…To be on a set and pull out a meter to get the “perfect” lighting is a bit excessive-It will take away from enjoying the process of dialing / fixing whatever issue there and then.
@@THISISWILL23 That's fine if you have a client that has all the time in the world to wait while the photographer is problem solving. As a hobbiest that's fine, but for a professional where time is money I believe a light meter gets you closer to you end result a lot quicker.
@@rbj.photography Hey since you’re so invested into light meters maybe you should make a video with your take ( time frame it takes to shoot with one vs none) and cheaper meter options..I’m sure that’s a reason why most don’t care to use.
I tink people watching will undermine the value in these videos cause it takes the illusion out of the process and gives 100percent transparency which is key for anyone looking to learn not critisize
That's what my content is all about! I hated when I started that most tutorials out there didn't give solid details on how to replicate the results. It was all about making the photographer look like they were some mystical being. I hope to continue to find ways to make the process even more transparent so that anyone who wants to learn can learn.
Thank you! I changed it up since the f2 shots were coming in slightly out of focus with how she was posing. I wanted to have a deeper depth of field, so I went with f8 (also shot some at f5.6 that I might post up on IG). :)
That light meter is almost as expensive as my camera and my lens, which I bought second hand. I don't know if a light meter is worth it. Probably the best reason is the good impression you give, and that's very important. A friend who is a lawyer doesn't like to drive, but he got a BMW and now his clients respect him more.
You don't have to have the BMW level light meter. There are other options that are a lot cheaper than the one Miguel has. I use that same light meter but I trigger the strobes with the light meter. It has a Godox transmitter in which controls Godox lights without having to use the trigger light Miguel was using. That's why it's so expensive.
@@leomartinezcol You're welcome Leo. I love that light meter. It saves me from removing the trigger from the camera keeping the camera with me to trigger the lights.
@@rbj.photography Could you name a cheaper option that works with Godox? I have a an old Sekonic L-358 The tranmitters only work with old stuff. It does not work with Godox. (Well If you plug a godox trigger into the 385 trigger port, set the Godox trigger on the camera not to send updates to the flash, you can press the button and it will trigger the flash, then you can make adjustments the flash but if you take a picture with the camera, the cameras trigger will not send adjustments to the flashes. So you have the one taped to the 385, that is a huge mess with 2 devices taped together. It is just a pain.) I have seen some $30 light meters but they don't transmit the Godox signal so I am back to holding a trigger in my hand and if I do that, then I just us what I have now. Are there any other options?
Not sure why he explained all the steps to balance at f2, then never actually took the shot or showed the result… Then took a bunch of shots at f8. Beautiful model looked absolutely bored while he went on about how we don’t need a light meter in a video about how to use a light meter.
I didn't like the way the f2 shots looked, so I shot at various settings after describing how to use the meter. That's why I took these at f8. As for the model, she's not a photographer so all the technical mumbojumbo isn't all that interesting to her lol ;)
Great video Miguel. Thanks for that. Just one thing I want to know; what is the metering mode you used while taking the ambient exposure, spot or Matrix?
Thank you! I used matrix metering for these shots, but depending on your scene you may want to use a different one. I tend to go with what looks best to my eye, even if one of those metering modes says the exposure is technically "correct". Hope it helps!
Excellent video Miguel. The fact is today we all use a light meter. It is built in to all our modern digital cameras. Your use of an external light meter gives a great demonstration on balancing the ambient light and strobe. Understanding and controlling the light is the difference between snapshots and photography.
It should be noted that an internal light meter is used when the camera shoots in an automatic mode. It is not being used when the camera is used in manual mode, which many photographers use for this type of shoot.
@@MiguelQuilesJr it took 3 of your Videos, “HSS photography made easy” “flash photography for portraits ND filter vs HSS” and “flash photography for portraits “correct method “ I give credit to the way you explain the process of how to get the “right”exposure, simple yet full of information in a format I was able to understand and retain the information, I guess it was a 1 2 3 punch of flash photography. Grasias again.
As an alert photographer I realized that something spilled on Catelyn‘s shirt over her right chest (look 5:00). Now, you could either use photoshop and stamp away that stain in post-editing…or make the model change the shirt before taking shots. At least most customers would not be happy I guess…
It will be addressed in the final edit. I'm showing the photos straight out of camera in this video since many will complain if I show edited shots. Can't win either way 😂✌️
Regular clients can be very impatient. With a light meter 95% of clients think you don't know what you are doing. (Huffing and puffing). I won't use it.
What! Never heard that before. My clients think I know what I'm doing when I use my meter. Actually, I usually have the scene metered by the time they step onto the set.
My experience of working with clients is exactly the opposite; I build a setup of three or four flashes, measure each light and the first photo I take for the client is exactly as it should be. This is what my clients describe as professionalism.
I use the same Sekonic with a Godox module and it calculates everything for me. Another easy way is to set the desired aperture and shoot TTL. I have formal training in photography and I don't think it makes sense for anyone to be shooting manual flash in 2022.
Katelyn can pull off a Wonder Woman cosplay!.. Would be a fire photo session with her.
Shure she can!
Very necessary if you shoot film.
You are correct but it's also very useful with digital photography as well. These digital cameras have come a long way but incident meters measure light falling on the subject vs reflective light which comes from the scene. Light meter is far more accurate.
Hey Miguel, what the rolling cart that you have in the background of this video?
that model is probably thd prettiest woman I have seen
The percentage scale on the meter shows you the ratio of flash to ambient too that way you get to see what your style measures at. 20% 25% 30% etc 100% is no ambient light and the exposure at the model is all flash. Knowing this helps you go straight to your preferred ratio everytime. Hope that makes sense. Love your work keep it up.
She has that Wonder Woman look 🪄
Personally I think light meters are a relic from the past, back from the film days. Film was expensive, especially for video. You had to know how to use a light meter to get the right exposure for the film you were using. There was no easy way to check the image on the fly to see if it was properly exposed. With the advent of digital, you could review your images and make adjustments as you shot. With mirrorless, it's even easier to make adjustments on the fly.
You still need a light meter for to measure light ratios when using flashes, or even constant light sources for that matter. Light meters help with consistency in flash work.
The model just simply standing there looking all annoyed. In her thoughts, she's saying. "Dude hurry the F. up! I have things to do today..."
good video.
She does it to keep me honest 😂
Shooting outside with flash always makes me think of the wedding photographers before digital. They would be out there working with maybe a Hasselblad or a Bronica camera with a bare bulb flash on top or on a flash bracket. They flashed every shot, indoor or outside. There was no such thing as test shots but this is what they did for a living and they always came away with beautiful negatives.
One time a family member tight on her wedding budget asked if I could photograph her wedding. I did not want to. I was an amateur hobbyist photographer not a wedding photographer, I was afraid of the responsibility involved. She told me she is not expecting professional photographs, just a recording of the day. I reluctantly agreed. I went to see my friend Jim who was a wonderful and very experienced wedding photographer. I asked him about setting exposures for flash outdoors. He said to me, It’s super easy. Pick the aperture you want to shoot at, say F8, now meter the outdoor scene to get your shutter speed for F8 and set your flash for the F8 range. Back then they were the auto thyristor type of flashes, similar to TTL but the great thing about them is they worked with any camera and were pretty accurate.
I got my Hasselblad all ready with the 45 degree prism finder and my Sunpak J-120 flash on a flash bracket. I followed his instructions. I worked real hard that day under stress to take a collection of photographs that would record the important moments in chronological order.
I used a pro lab that did work for all the pro wedding photographers in my area for processing and printing. We wound up with beautiful wedding photographs. Thirty years later I still look at them when I visit and they still look great and no one would know that an amateur took them because they turned out quite professional looking.
I used to use a light meter, only to get quickly to get the right exposure.
But a light meter only does that, not your creative look. Especially if your tethered to your laptop, your screen is your light meter, as you see the exposure on 💻.
Another word eyeballing it allows you to be more creative. There is no right or wrong.
Ratio effect to photographers' intent that's all "correct" ?! Subjective 2 years foto education vs working commercial photography work depends
Why did you meter for f2 and then shoot at f8? Did I miss something?
That was just to explain how it works. I didn't like how they looked at F2 since she was posing at various angles. The shots came out soft for my tastes so I went to f8.
Did you metered again when you moved to f8?
Yes, it's in the b-roll before the images show on screen.
What a nice shirt! I have the same brand. My light meter is Minolta V.
I am curious as to why you didn't measure the ambient light with your light meter. I have watched other similar videos and everyone is measuring ambient with the camera.
Is there a reason for this?
I loved your T-shirt! Link if you can share, please. 🙂
How about working with flash percentages? Learn that perhaps a client likes a 30% flash and decide whether you want to lock in f-stop or shutter.
That is not how your light meter works. You are using a Sekonic 858 wich gives you a reading in tenth of stops. The reading is giving you 2.0 7. This means f2 + 7/10 which is around f2.5.
You can change settins to use it in third of stops but if you use it as a radio transmitter you can only use it in tenth of stops and be aware of it for correct exposure.
Example f2 0 is f2. f2 1 is closer to F2 but f2 2 is closer to f2.2 and f2 3 is f2.2. f2 9 would be almost f2.8 and f2 10 would be 2.8
I'm a meter guy you can guess the exposure or you can know it.
Exactly. People that say things like:. The meter takes away my fun and creativity from photography doesn't know how to use a light meter or are afraid to learn.
Very nice and helpful! Yes, when I’m using flash only inside studio, I rarely use the meter, but outside, I find I can dial it in more quickly! I have to agree you don’t need it but for me it helps to get there within two test shots! :)
I feel you. For one flash, I feel like the meter isn’t necessary. I would say a light meter is more important for video when you match multiple cameras
My Godox flash has fractional levels like a shutter. Is there a way to convert to full numbers (4, 5, 6) like yours?
No power levels are a function of the specific strobe/speedlight. Most older strobes/speedlights use fractions
Starting low power could be 1/256, 1/128, 1/64 and so on up to 1/1 (full power), these are whole stops of light. It's really pretty simple.
If your light shoots TTL then it's even easier you'd use FEC (flash exposure compensation) to dial in the look you want. Everything that he does to dial in the background is the same you'd just use FEC to dial in the flash instead of the flash power level. Hope this helps
Luv that tee shirt.
U don't need a light meter. For those that are anal about it. Get over it!
the photometer is a waste of time with current cameras
Isn't the info in the meta data of the file?
Katelyn looks awesome!!!
Katelyn, you are very patient!
I think she looks very bored and is getting paid. No personality at all.
video starts at 03:48
Wish those light meters weren’t so pricey.
Same here. They have a cheaper model but this one works so well I couldn't imagine using anything else.
Great Video!!
Little confused about talking about shooting at f2 then the after shots are all f8.
That was just to demonstrate how it's done. I didn't like the look of F2, so I metered for f8 (it's in the b-roll before the images show up) and went from there 👍
Thanks for the video. I would say, learning to use the light meter is another good photographic skill to have. Agreed using one light and shooting digital, especially mirrorless cameras you can get away without using it. Multiple lights in or out of the studio changing lenses and moving strobes around. It’s a good tool to have for accuracy and repeatable results. Shooting commercial or product a meter and a color checker are strong choices. I shoot mixed digital and film and sometimes just film, having my Sekonic meter is great!
100% agree especially when using multiple lights and for commercial work.
Beautiful model however it looks like she has a stain on the right side of her shirt. I hope you took that out in post.
That's one of many reasons that I dislike showing raw photos in my videos. Things like that happen all the time, and of course are removed in post. I think it was sap from a tree she was posing on. 🤷
Does the light meter work with constant light also?
Sure does!
each to their own and all that.... but anyone who has shot with models, or any humans for that matter, can tell you... their attention span on a photo shoot is very VERY short. In the time you've taken to meter the light with a light meter, they've got bored and zoned out!! The flash output can be judged by a few test shots, and with some luck and experience, you might actually nail at first go. And by doing so, you've kept interaction with your subject. And unless you know what the flash reading actually means (it is metering for reproduction of mid grey) you actually may need to fine tune anyway, after first few test shots anyway. If your shooting digital, spend your money on more useful gear, like another light or modifiers.
How about a video where you are shooting in bright ambient light, but you want the background dark and shoot more wide open. Using a ND filter, or HSS (but if you are using and AD200 and HSS drops power by 1 stop or more and you don't have enough power, using ND Filter to darken the background but still allowing you to shoot at full power not going into HSS. How do you balance all that stuff even with a single light. I have seen others do this but they don't explain the process of getting the exposure right.
I would have never got through The Zone System class when I was in Photo school in Daytona. Used a $45 Sekonic :-)
Nice video, Miguel! Very helpful! Thank-you!! Katelyn is wonderful, too!
It's much quicker using the meter. If you know how to count stops you can dial the strobe in within 2 shots. I mean dial it in accurately within 2 shots.
Poor Katelyn seemed to be having a bad day with a coffee stain on her singlet & mosquito bite on her stomach.
Tough times for sure, she said a follow on IG will make it all better 👍
@@MiguelQuilesJr done 😀
Miguel: What is the collapsible cart? (You can see it in the last few seconds.) Thanks.
as a new photographer this mini series of Flash Photography for portraits has been extremely helpful, do you mind doing a tutorial of photographing Quinceneras and Brides...I feel that it requires certain details to keep in mind with the long dresses, and the lighting whether indoor or out doors...also dealing with people in popular spots, I hope you get to read this request I would greatly appreciate...all your products i have them on my wishlist to buy that are below this video btw
You are a wonderful professional who knows how to choose true beauty to polish your photos. Yes, I love this information. Thank you
How can we trigger the light when testing without always taking the trigger off the camera? Do you carry a second trigger for that? And if so do you have to constantly change its settings to match changes made to the lighting with the trigger on the camera? Hope thus makes some sense..lol Thanks!
I always use my old Sekonic light meter. I had some transmitters custom made for Profoto and Hensel strobes so I can trigger the strobe with the lightmeter which is quite comfortable.
Just one question to you @Miguel Quiles
What kind of foldable trolley are you using that is in the background?
I was researching for those and there are tons of options but I struggle to find a good one.
I'll tell you the REAL "correct" method for balancing ambient with flash on location: The method that gets you the shot you want. ;) It doesn't matter if you use a light meter or not. I use a light meter in studio, but on location I do it by feel. The most important thing is that you are being intentional about how you want it to look and that you are producing the best results possible for your clients. Happy shooting!
Totally understand what you are saying, but I like to start from a base of accuracy then I can start my creative process. The light meter gets you where you want to be quicker than eye balling the situation. The back of that screen as failed me plenty of times.
@@rbj.photography Exactly. To each his own. Just so you get the final result that you and your client want.
@@rbj.photography My screen is always on 50% brightness and has never failed me.
From a client standpoint, getting a great shot is important but at the same time, time is money. If I'm paying you a rate of $300 an hour, I don't want you spending an hour eye balling it. When you start thinking professionally, getting accurate results quickly is just as important as getting a great shot especially if you want to be hired again by the client.
💥 9:50 crushed way too much ambient and it looks like nighttime but thanks for the tutorial otherwise 🤟🏼
Very informative video, thank you so much for all the detailed instructions in OCF.
👍🏽
Great video, thank you.
I love that Kupo roller stand as well. By far the best purchase for my outdoor shoots and studio
Video starts 5:30 🙄
Some people like to know what gear is being used, sorry if that isn't something of interest to you. If I don't mention it I'll get a ton of questions in the comments that I will never have time to get around to answering, which is why it's covered in the video. Thanks for watching either way 👍
All that assuming the distance from each light to the subject is the same. Cheers man!
Great video, very helpful. I like your earnest approach and telling it how you see it in your years of experience. Can't argue with the results! Subscribed as this is like the 5th video I've seen of yours. Just got into photo with an EOS RP and you're helping me greatly.
Love that shirt
Thank you sir! 🙏
not mandatory but still very good to know. Thanks!
Dreams have come true! 'Using flash outdoors'. Thank you ever so much Miguel
Love your stuff Miguel, Another point that should be made is that flash synch speed does not play a roll in exposure in flash photography, and that it is your aperture that will determine your exposure.
For consistency purposes it's great, for product photography too
Great Video MiggyQ! I relocated to Florida. Would love to take you out to lunch to chat and meet you. You are very busy and I won't take too much of your time.
Thanks Willie! And of course I'd be down. Just have to see when the schedule lines up 👍
This takes away from the fun of photography imo..Great content though!💪🏾
That's funny you say that. How does using a light meter take the fun out of photography? What if a client loves how you took a particular shot and wants that same identical lighting. How will you achieve that if you don't remember the light settings especially if you used multiple lights? You will taking forever trying to duplicate that look. If you had a light meter and recorded your ratios you will get that look every time. What if you were working with a client and they said I want a 4:1 ratio between the key and rim lights? How will you know that you are achieving that ratio if you are having FUN guessing the ratios?
@@rbj.photography I said in my opinion. I shoot as a hobby (street photography & use flash sometimes), not as a profession…To be on a set and pull out a meter to get the “perfect” lighting is a bit excessive-It will take away from enjoying the process of dialing / fixing whatever issue there and then.
@@THISISWILL23 That's fine if you have a client that has all the time in the world to wait while the photographer is problem solving. As a hobbiest that's fine, but for a professional where time is money I believe a light meter gets you closer to you end result a lot quicker.
@@rbj.photography Hey since you’re so invested into light meters maybe you should make a video with your take ( time frame it takes to shoot with one vs none) and cheaper meter options..I’m sure that’s a reason why most don’t care to use.
@@THISISWILL23 That video has been done already.
Great video, you always have quality content, but I want a link to that T-Shirt! It's FIRE!
Thank you! Glad you liked the shirt too lol Here's a link amzn.to/3ygfYMC
I tink people watching will undermine the value in these videos cause it takes the illusion out of the process and gives 100percent transparency which is key for anyone looking to learn not critisize
That's what my content is all about! I hated when I started that most tutorials out there didn't give solid details on how to replicate the results. It was all about making the photographer look like they were some mystical being. I hope to continue to find ways to make the process even more transparent so that anyone who wants to learn can learn.
Great video!! Originally you had aperture at 2.8 but the pictures were at 8. Was there a specific reason you changed it just wondering
Thank you! I changed it up since the f2 shots were coming in slightly out of focus with how she was posing. I wanted to have a deeper depth of field, so I went with f8 (also shot some at f5.6 that I might post up on IG). :)
Excellent content as always; btw where'd you pick up the t-shirt??
Thank you! Glad you liked the shirt too. I got it here amzn.to/3ygfYMC
She looks thrilled
She loves it when you talk camera nerd 😂
That light meter is almost as expensive as my camera and my lens, which I bought second hand. I don't know if a light meter is worth it. Probably the best reason is the good impression you give, and that's very important. A friend who is a lawyer doesn't like to drive, but he got a BMW and now his clients respect him more.
Yo Leo, hasn't anyone made an app that works as well or almost as well as a light meter?
You don't have to have the BMW level light meter. There are other options that are a lot cheaper than the one Miguel has. I use that same light meter but I trigger the strobes with the light meter. It has a Godox transmitter in which controls Godox lights without having to use the trigger light Miguel was using. That's why it's so expensive.
@@rbj.photography that's great info. I'm a godox user. I'm going to check. Thanks.
@@leomartinezcol You're welcome Leo. I love that light meter. It saves me from removing the trigger from the camera keeping the camera with me to trigger the lights.
@@rbj.photography Could you name a cheaper option that works with Godox? I have a an old Sekonic L-358 The tranmitters only work with old stuff. It does not work with Godox. (Well If you plug a godox trigger into the 385 trigger port, set the Godox trigger on the camera not to send updates to the flash, you can press the button and it will trigger the flash, then you can make adjustments the flash but if you take a picture with the camera, the cameras trigger will not send adjustments to the flashes. So you have the one taped to the 385, that is a huge mess with 2 devices taped together. It is just a pain.) I have seen some $30 light meters but they don't transmit the Godox signal so I am back to holding a trigger in my hand and if I do that, then I just us what I have now. Are there any other options?
Thank you Miguel
Another great video Miguel. I have to laugh as you explain the process, in the background, Katelyn looks pissed off standing there.
Thanks! It's a running gag we have going 😂
@@MiguelQuilesJr Deadly!
Not sure why he explained all the steps to balance at f2, then never actually took the shot or showed the result… Then took a bunch of shots at f8. Beautiful model looked absolutely bored while he went on about how we don’t need a light meter in a video about how to use a light meter.
I didn't like the way the f2 shots looked, so I shot at various settings after describing how to use the meter. That's why I took these at f8. As for the model, she's not a photographer so all the technical mumbojumbo isn't all that interesting to her lol ;)
@@MiguelQuilesJr I had the same comment. The model looked bored as hell. I wouldn't have her working for me. She has no personality but a nice body.
Great video Miguel. Thanks for that. Just one thing I want to know; what is the metering mode you used while taking the ambient exposure, spot or Matrix?
Thank you! I used matrix metering for these shots, but depending on your scene you may want to use a different one. I tend to go with what looks best to my eye, even if one of those metering modes says the exposure is technically "correct". Hope it helps!
@@MiguelQuilesJr yes, it definitely helped. Thanks a ton. looking forward to more great videos.
Excellent video Miguel. The fact is today we all use a light meter. It is built in to all our modern digital cameras.
Your use of an external light meter gives a great demonstration on balancing the ambient light and strobe. Understanding and controlling the light is the difference between snapshots and photography.
It should be noted that an internal light meter is used when the camera shoots in an automatic mode. It is not being used when the camera is used in manual mode, which many photographers use for this type of shoot.
Thanks!
I thought the fj-x2m needed an extra adapter for sony cameras, how is it working for you without it ?
I believe it's only for HSS and TTL.
@@MiguelQuilesJr Ah ok. Thanks for the quick response. appreciate it.
every time I watch one of your videos, something inside my head goes "CLICK" thank you.
That's amazing feedback! So happy to hear it. What was it specifically this time that clicked?
@@MiguelQuilesJr it took 3 of your
Videos, “HSS photography made easy” “flash photography for portraits ND filter vs HSS” and “flash photography for portraits “correct method “ I give credit to the way you explain the process of how to get the “right”exposure, simple yet full of information in a format I was able to understand and retain the information, I guess it was a 1 2 3 punch of flash photography. Grasias again.
well done :)
As an alert photographer I realized that something spilled on Catelyn‘s shirt over her right chest (look 5:00). Now, you could either use photoshop and stamp away that stain in post-editing…or make the model change the shirt before taking shots. At least most customers would not be happy I guess…
It will be addressed in the final edit. I'm showing the photos straight out of camera in this video since many will complain if I show edited shots. Can't win either way 😂✌️
@@MiguelQuilesJr I get it…sorry to have brought it up then 😢🫶
No worries! I didn't catch it in the midst of the shoot, but it's easy enough to clean up in post.
Good to see this!
I didn’t see a link for the stand
Forgot to add it, but this is the one bhpho.to/3FQLH8Y
Good lord that poor woman! Less talk more action may be helpful. Who shoots at 1/60 with a 1.8 lens in day light 😩
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind for my next tutorial 😂 As for your other question, I think you know the answer to that 👍
Regular clients can be very impatient.
With a light meter 95% of clients think you don't know what you are doing. (Huffing and puffing).
I won't use it.
What! Never heard that before. My clients think I know what I'm doing when I use my meter. Actually, I usually have the scene metered by the time they step onto the set.
My experience of working with clients is exactly the opposite; I build a setup of three or four flashes, measure each light and the first photo I take for the client is exactly as it should be. This is what my clients describe as professionalism.
Was this an instructional video or a gear sales pitch? 🤔
Did you watch it? Pretty sure the information is relevant regardless of what gear you're using.
I use the same Sekonic with a Godox module and it calculates everything for me. Another easy way is to set the desired aperture and shoot TTL. I have formal training in photography and I don't think it makes sense for anyone to be shooting manual flash in 2022.
That's a statement with a broad stroke. I can think of many, many situations and lighting setups where TTL is more of a time sink than a solution.
TTL is great to get you in ball park. I use it and move everything to manual. Doing this creates more consistency.