War and Poetry: big wall climbing in Greenland
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2018
- A three day ascent of War and Poetry (VI 5.12c), on the South West face of Ulamertorsuaq in the Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland.
We attempted to team free the line hauling a small pack with minimal bivy gear. Whilst we had to send up the emergency aiders a few times higher on the wall, we free climbed the vast majority of the wall, including most of the harder pitches.
This video details our experience in such a surreal and intimidating place!
Filmed and edited by Andrew Cherry and Stefan Morris.
Trip support from the BMC, the Andrew Croft Memorial Fund, the Jeremy Willson Charitable Trust, Berghaus, DMM, Battle Oats and Insitu Climbing Dunkeld.
With extra thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick for the advice and Niels Tækker Jepsen
#climbing #greenland
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Fantastic movie thanks for shering !!
Whaouh ! What a climb ! Superb …congratulations from France.
This is one of my new favorite climbing shorts. So remote and great shots!
Well done boys! Looks like an amazing route!
Great film, looks like you had a fantastic trip!
That was awesome! The veiw at night and the dawn when you summit was phenomenal!
You made it look so safe and quite easy, but in reality, I'd say its extremely difficult and requires Alot of skill and fitness, hats off to you, very entertaining viewing.
One Awesome Wall, great video and spectacular climbing 🕉️
Amazing skill and humbleness!!! Kudos to both of u ….🎉
Just climbed with Paul yesterday. Was great to listen to him recount this amazing route!
Well done! What a dreamland..
Nicely done, Gents!
I happen to be rereading just now Maj. H.W.S. Tilman, CBE, DSO, MC and Bar, Ret. (R.I.P.), and whilst the Greenland flag makes me glow inside (what history!), the helicopter made me just a bit queasy. Still, in our modern age, with all the distractions, you climbed a big wall in Greenland!!
Awesome video, awesome climbers
seriously cool stuff boys!
I like this Stefan Morris guy for some reason:P Great video BTW. Would love to one day try it at this wall!
bel video, complimenti! e auguri.
Awe I loved it!!
You guys are so cool, i didnt know there really was walls like that in greenland, all the mountains in my home town have really low incline and there are few climbable walls🇬🇱
Nice one!
Супер! И восхождение, и фильм.
wow i really liked this one harry
Dear Team BMC,
Lovely video you had made there. And the mountain you climbed is so amazing and beautiful.
I just want to inform you lovely guys that this mountain is called Suikkassuaq. The Ulamertorsuaq is a some how spoon looking further in the fjord.
This is not to ruin the whole video and naming. I just want to people know that it is the wrong name that is being used. So, I hope you understand.
Very kindly, Aningaaq - Visit Greenland
Huh? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulamertorsuaq
@@zachthompson5335 Wikipedia....
Aningaaq, our Greenland guide from Nanortalik said otherwise. He called it Ulamertorsuaq. I guess there is some local / national misunderstanding on naming ( a common theme in many mountain regions ). My son was there age 14 & went up to the base of W&P. He also did some amazing fishing & an attempt on leading a 2 day First Ascent of a route on a neighbouring peak. Very grateful to some amazing Brits for taking him on the SDMC Greenland expedition back in 2016.
I agree that it would be healthy to get this naming cleared up one way or other.
cool video guys!
Im so proud to say This is my Country🤙🏻
It is incredibly beautiful!
It's melting.
Bravissimi!!!!
Several charitable trusts.....superb climb.
Magnifique !
so rad!!!
planning on climbing here next summer
Outstanding... Good effort lads. Go to Baffin... Mount Killabuk .... You like that... ;-)
7:07 That corner looks dreamy
Awesome I loved it
Spectacular. I'd be in aiders for the top half, at least.
That’s awesome :0
Amazing
You are beatiful people, guys :)
Nice job. I would have liked to hear a brief history on the who the first ascensionists were and when and what style.
Just google the route & location. Stunning place. Loved climbing next to there with a great team in 2016
Description
FFA Bechtel-Bechtel-Lilygren-Mallamo-Model-Piana-Skinner 1998
This route was first climbed by a Swiss team in 1983, and named the Geneva Diedre. A large American team worked on it in 1998, freeing it and and renaming it "War and Poetry".
Not sure the thinking of the FFA team, but to me the name reflects the climbing style of the route, though in reverse order.
The lower half, through pitch 17, is mostly poetic and graceful face climbing, up an ever-steeping slab. The crux of this section is a series of 4 tricky pitches, 13-17.
The next section is war. The massive right-facing dihedral that forms the upper half is unrelentingly physical, with steep flares and wide cracks. If you're not honed on this style, the OW pitches could feel severely sandbagged.
Above the OW section, the beautiful Bowstring crack provides two pitches of difficult finger crack.
Descend by rapping the route with two 60m ropes. The Black Heart ledge is a mediocre bivy for two, as is the p23 ledge.
Up the middle of the massize west face of Ulamersortuaq, into the long RF dihedral.
The route starts up some ledges shared with Moby Dick, and then traverse out right onto the face.
Protection Suggest Change
Double set of cams to #3, single 4-6. 16 QDs, stoppers and RPs.
Modesty in bucket loads and yes, a very big tick I'd say. The words "The loneliness of the long-distance climbers" comes to mind.
Well, was there snow on top?
hrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....too mad things to do. Definitely!
mad lads
Greenland is stunningly beautiful... id put it up there, with Antarctica, as far as, being in the unknown with people. the world isnt informed enough of the beauty that actually exists in those places.
Rockstars!!!
Nice...
I'll go to greenland one day...
Trust me you'll love it
If you are looking for similar adventure big walls at a lower price tag in the meantime, may I recommend British Columbia 2000-4000ft just a short distance from a logging road all over the place.
Титаны! Парняги, молодцы!
Respekt !!!!
nice done that too
wow
So much was left out: how they slept on the wall, how they prepared food... Inadequate.
Nice
How did you sleep in the nights?
I barley eat chilli while sitting in front of my computer becasue I'm worried how my stomach will react.
That's a real sad life man. I only eat chili with good hot sauce and with chips 🤣
Look like you guys had a great time. I stared climbing a year ago and I've made it a goal in my life to climb big walls like this but I'm unsure about how to achieve this. I was wondering if you could give some advice about how to go from climbing walls in a gym to finally venturing out into long routes showcased in your video ?
Ben Kalbfleisch I started climbing in a gym about 7 years ago and felt very much the same - great granite walls were what inspired me! Just follow through the process of gaining experience both outdoors and on a rope, be open to learning everything you can and don't rush! Climbing with some like minded people who share similar goals can really help too, although those sorts of partners can be tough to come by.
The best weight loss program, in my opinion. For those that wanna just eat better, but still sit around on the couch, here ya go!
yes & no .... We got fat on the Salmon ( Atlantic Char ) there in the Fjord. :) :)
Jealous, nothing like going on a grand adventure with your bros.
anyone know the name of the song that keeps playing throughout the vid? great vid guys and awesome climb!
z00ttt had by lil pump
black scientology feat. mc hoyabembe
Is this the group who gopro filmed their climbing under the tilted peek?
I would be terrified to sleep on a small little edge
Masya Allah
Very nice place
Safety First
How are they climbing with fingerless gloves? I thought it was frigid cold there
1:45 - Fundacja Wspierania Alpinizmu Polskiego :-) - a sticker on a barrel :-D
could of at least paraglided down , i mean come on . awsome effort , super vid
How high is the top?
Gnar!
Blame it on the boogie!
Where did they sleep?
What is the elevation of the summit? Looks pretty high...
Vegas Cycling Freak - it's just shy of 2000 metres! Most of the landscape shots in the video are taken from sea level (well Fjord level).
Oh that's not nearly as high as I thought. But I suppose it's the highest thing around for many miles, so that makes it seem higher than that when you can see things so far away.
There's actually a taller formation in the next valley along, but it isn't nearly as impressive as Ulamertorsuaq (in my opinion at least). Nothing there is super high in altitude, which is great for climbing really as you don't need to acclimatise!
I just don't understand why people have down voted this vid? It's like what's your problem? Some guys went climbing, what's so bad about that?
Maybe that their (cool but actually senseless) travelling causes lots of emissions. Another motivation jealousy could be.
great
video! also looking for the song if anyone has any ideas.. thanks!
Hiya, The song is Elephant in the Room by Jonathan Lloyd. Purchased from a royalty free music site :)
My man!
Thanks a lot brother - putting it on repeat as we speak : )
Name of the song in the back?
Hiya, The song is Elephant in the Room by Jonathan Lloyd. Purchased from a royalty free music site :)
Many thanks!!
ever been to Monument Valley ?
These guys and this production style is cool? If true, I'm totally lost
Does anyone know the last track of the video?
I've been searching for it too. Did you by any means find it?
@@Anggeloukos It was in the description of the video all along apparently:) Jonathan Lloyd - Elephant In The Room
@@ozandogrultan Thanks a lot!
How do they shit on the portaledge? If they need to that is
Poo baggies and containers are the typical method.
So what to you do if you gotta go poopy
In Greenland, you can just shit over the side of the port-a-ledge. On El Cap they gotta shit in bags. lol
Big time
How did they sleep? How can they set up a tent or sleeping bags on a flat rock?
Egyptian American Patriot its called a paraledge. Pretty much a platform hanging from the wall with a tent on top. It's tiny tho.
Johan Leclerc
Thanks bro. These guys are hardcore
Don't mean to be that guy but it's called a "Port-A-ledge"
@@tyty17172 you are right :)
Sweeet
Wing suit
Skąd mają beczki FUNDACJI WSPIERANIA ALPINIZMU POLSKIEGO im. KUKUCZKI ?
pożyczyliśmy je od biura turystycznego w Nanortalik
Did I see bolts at the top?
I climbed it 6 years years ago
Awesome man. How tall is the wall? I missed that bit
I reckon me and my mates would have done it in a day if we weren't all fat and lazy! Same as we could be Messi or Ronaldo,easy. Well done chaps.😉
And I thought Troutdale Pinnacle was hard......
A little more video from the top would of been nice. Otherwise nice climb.
There will be plenty more fjords to climb when every bit of that snow in Greenland melts away soon
This may be a dumb question (which I hate) but who installed the climbing anchors there and how did they do it? Seems like a very inaccessible piece of granite
Hand drilling. 15 mins to 45 mins a hole
An incredible achievement. Unfortunately the video just does not do it justice. At all.
Guys is not essayist
Я бы залез туда за пару часов
쫘식들 먼지다.♡♡
So ... when camping on a cliff... Does it really matter who's below when ya gota shit?? Lmao.
Fun fact:
That iceberg we see in the beginning of the video is actually Iceland.
Dope climb. Audio sucks lol
What an amazing climb... but it SUCKS Tonsequenzen you burning so much fossil energy for you to enjoy nature! I really SUCKS!
Where do you shit?
fake el capitan :)
Dont get me wrong,but y,do you people,do these things,when no one makes you,and then you moan about it???
You can't really turn off the suffering aspect lol it hurts a lot, and it's good to let it out naturally.