Started slot cars in 1963. In 1969 racing with some of the big boys such as Stube and Tanaka, we first use the sidewinder configuration and the results were just amazing on how good the cars were in the corners over the inline motor configuration. Like day and night.
Great tutorial! I've been in the hobby for just over ten years but only in the last two that I've really learned alot from the more "serious" guys and recently prepped a few of my NSR cars on my own. Kinda scary cutting on a brand new car but that's half the fun! This is my favorite slot car channel!
Was really hoping that the vid would explain some basic characteristics of a slot car's handling, oversteer, rollover, understeer deslot etc(and how to tackle these behaviours), but none of these were mentioned. No mention of suspension and no explanation of why inlines work so well (when plainly they shouldn't as seen in the demo) .
Totally agree - the 9 to 10 pinion switch is also the first or second thing I do on any new in-line car. It's the best compromise between speed and acceleration on most tracks. And it does make for a pleasanter driving experience. I also find it helps in getting a better 'feel' for a new car. I suppose the in-line chassis 'twisting' is a more critical issue where the chassis is either too soft/bendy or (worse) the motor mounts are weak or brittle.
Great inclusion showing how motor torque affects the chassis on the “skid pad”. The sidewinder will still do this but it’ll push the rear axel downwards, rather than rock the car side to side. Another reason why sidewinders often feel like they generate more grip.
The heavy weight causes the car to rotate during cornering. The further back you mount the motor, the more extreme the rear of the car will rotate during cornering.
I like the video demo of torque tilt with inline cars! I suppose power on, out of corners would be different left to right. The car trying to push down on the inside rear tyre (from torque effect), exiting a turn is probably a good thing. The opposite maybe not so good. My skills are probably not good enough to notice any effect. I just cleaned up my Ninco track after 20 years. Been setting up some NSR's & Revoslot cars and making various changes. They're new to me. I don't like extreme fast cars that don't give enough feedback prior coming off. (For my driving) Just Moving magnets & changing tyres for now, until track is less bumpy, then ride heights may come down a bit. I like NSR, but the Revoslots are engineered so well, with so much metal! And they handle best on my track, feedback slide just right, prior any changes, out of the box.
Good video Dave. Some of the rock you get with inlines is attributed to the change in thrust direction at the pinion/crown meeting juncture. This change doesn't occur with anglewinders & full sidewinders. Anglewinders let one use smaller tires while allowing numerically higher gear ratios. Inlines will allow more motor weight to be placed in a chassis's center. This affects handling, sometime in a good way. Anglewinders can do the same weight centering by increasing (opening up) the motor angle to the rear axle. I realize plastic chassis limit what you can do for tuning, but most of the 1/32 racers, who are scratchbuilders, probably know more than I do. The different chassis designs with different motors in them isn't really a fair comparison of the different chassis designs. I know you had to show what you were able to put your hands on. I've built inline cars for inline-only race rules, but I wouldn't generally race them against anglewinders.
I have to convert all my cars to Scalextric Advance so there's space for the A or B chip. Love to drive Slot. It or Hornby. Haven't been able to break into Revo.Slot or NRS, wasted too much on Scalextric and SCX to change
You need to do a crash course in physics Dave. The torque reaction with the sidewinder is still there, its just front to rear instead of right to left. Since the front was resting on the track you didnt notice it. You can dial it out with a sidewinder by adding or removing weight to the rear axle assembly. You cant dial it out with an inline.
I agree with Fabio, it’s simple physics! We were aware of that in the sixties. Gear ratios, motor rpm and controller resistance all need to be balanced according to track design and that’s not to mention tire size!
Isn’t the twist caused by the spin of the motor. In the in-line the motor spin is sideways causing the chassis to twist, whereas in a sidewinder the spin is front to back.
@@SlotCarNewsOfficial The 'torque effect' is basic GYROSCOPIC flywheel effect. On an INLINE the mass adds load/weight to the wheel pushing down and under braking, the opposite wheel is affected making inline cars 'different' to drive. Sidewinder can tend to lighten the nose over and above the front to rear weight balance.
It's simpler than that, the pinion is trying to climb over the crown gear so pushes away from the crown putting more load on the tyre on one side than the other.
Its all a preference. Most guys at my club like angle winder. Me and a few more like sidewinder. I drive a sidewinder lot better. When we run slot it group c its a level racing field. There all in line. Group c are great.
for me and my mates the anglewinder is faster than sidewinder who is faster than inline-- fk180 is faster than fc 130 . we race magless on latexpainted mdf and scaley.
You tune a car that's in theory IN MOTION. So your stationary, the car is stationary but you imagine the car in motion. The car has 4 points of contact with the road. When you brake for a corner, the rear 2 points of contact with the road loose traction and the motor weight influences rotational speed. You never mentioned motor weight \ mounting location within the wheelbase. This is the number 1 problem for all cars. The public DOESN'T educate themselves about how the motor mounting location influences driving. People have no idea the motor causes the rear of the car to rotate during cornering. They think cars get driven the same way regardless of where the motor is mounted. People, Front mounted engine cars must be driven in a DIFFERENT WAY to rear mounted engine cars. I've seen so many new Porsche buyers spin their car into trees and die. For example, the crash with paul walker the actor. You MUST say the basics cause the public doesn't educate themselves, including the most basic aspects. They really are extremely uneducated. They really do have the wrong belief that they think you drive a Ford the same way that you drive a General Motors car. 70 year old guys get in the rear engine mounted car and drive the same way as they always have and crash and die. No one talks about components mounting location within the wheelbase as it related to influencing driveability.
You lost me when you said its not about winning, I am in it for the competition and strive to get the best out of the car and my driving (high speed thought).
Love it! Ty sooo much for all the helpful info, and for sharing harrys awesome chart. Wonderful advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Started slot cars in 1963. In 1969 racing with some of the big boys such as Stube and Tanaka, we first use the sidewinder configuration and the results were just amazing on how good the cars were in the corners over the inline motor configuration. Like day and night.
Very cool!
Great tutorial. “Learn your stuff” is probably the best lesson.
OUTSTANDING video Dave!!! Thanks for the demo!!! I like the characteristics of the SW chassis!!! Nuff said.
Great tutorial! I've been in the hobby for just over ten years but only in the last two that I've really learned alot from the more "serious" guys and recently prepped a few of my NSR cars on my own. Kinda scary cutting on a brand new car but that's half the fun!
This is my favorite slot car channel!
Dave thanks for the information and sharing your knowledge. As a beginner to car set up this information is valuable.
Great interesting video, more please, new to hobby and enjoying you knowledge👍
Was really hoping that the vid would explain some basic characteristics of a slot car's handling, oversteer, rollover, understeer deslot etc(and how to tackle these behaviours), but none of these were mentioned. No mention of suspension and no explanation of why inlines work so well (when plainly they shouldn't as seen in the demo) .
Thanks dude for the info!! Cheers
Totally agree - the 9 to 10 pinion switch is also the first or second thing I do on any new in-line car. It's the best compromise between speed and acceleration on most tracks. And it does make for a pleasanter driving experience. I also find it helps in getting a better 'feel' for a new car. I suppose the in-line chassis 'twisting' is a more critical issue where the chassis is either too soft/bendy or (worse) the motor mounts are weak or brittle.
another kick ass video. love the emphasis on preference with consideration of countless variables
sehr verständlich erklärt , danke 👍 regards from Germany
Great inclusion showing how motor torque affects the chassis on the “skid pad”. The sidewinder will still do this but it’ll push the rear axel downwards, rather than rock the car side to side. Another reason why sidewinders often feel like they generate more grip.
I’m glad that someone understands the laws of physics !
That was very help full. Know to get my own chart🤔
Nice one dave, great example with the inline and SW - haven't seen that example before
The heavy weight causes the car to rotate during cornering.
The further back you mount the motor, the more extreme the rear of the car will rotate during cornering.
I like the video demo of torque tilt with inline cars!
I suppose power on, out of corners would be different left to right.
The car trying to push down on the inside rear tyre (from torque effect), exiting a turn is probably a good thing.
The opposite maybe not so good. My skills are probably not good enough to notice any effect.
I just cleaned up my Ninco track after 20 years.
Been setting up some NSR's & Revoslot cars and making various changes. They're new to me.
I don't like extreme fast cars that don't give enough feedback prior coming off. (For my driving)
Just Moving magnets & changing tyres for now, until track is less bumpy, then ride heights may come down a bit.
I like NSR, but the Revoslots are engineered so well, with so much metal!
And they handle best on my track, feedback slide just right, prior any changes, out of the box.
Good video Dave. Some of the rock you get with inlines is attributed to the change in thrust direction at the pinion/crown meeting juncture. This change doesn't occur with anglewinders & full sidewinders. Anglewinders let one use smaller tires while allowing numerically higher gear ratios. Inlines will allow more motor weight to be placed in a chassis's center. This affects handling, sometime in a good way. Anglewinders can do the same weight centering by increasing (opening up) the motor angle to the rear axle. I realize plastic chassis limit what you can do for tuning, but most of the 1/32 racers, who are scratchbuilders, probably know more than I do. The different chassis designs with different motors in them isn't really a fair comparison of the different chassis designs. I know you had to show what you were able to put your hands on. I've built inline cars for inline-only race rules, but I wouldn't generally race them against anglewinders.
So what’s the go with the slot it setup? Is it a happy medium between the in line torque issues and any weight issues with a side winder motor?
I have to convert all my cars to Scalextric Advance so there's space for the A or B chip. Love to drive Slot. It or Hornby. Haven't been able to break into Revo.Slot or NRS, wasted too much on Scalextric and SCX to change
Another nice vid, I'm going to have to get one of those charts.
You need to do a crash course in physics Dave. The torque reaction with the sidewinder is still there, its just front to rear instead of right to left. Since the front was resting on the track you didnt notice it. You can dial it out with a sidewinder by adding or removing weight to the rear axle assembly. You cant dial it out with an inline.
I know it twists to the back, I said there was no imbalance right/left....
I agree with Fabio, it’s simple physics! We were aware of that in the sixties. Gear ratios, motor rpm and controller resistance all need to be balanced according to track design and that’s not to mention tire size!
Isn’t the twist caused by the spin of the motor. In the in-line the motor spin is sideways causing the chassis to twist, whereas in a sidewinder the spin is front to back.
yes it is. I don't find the front/back to make the car be imbalanced like it is side/side.
@@SlotCarNewsOfficial The 'torque effect' is basic GYROSCOPIC flywheel effect. On an INLINE the mass adds load/weight to the wheel pushing down and under braking, the opposite wheel is affected making inline cars 'different' to drive. Sidewinder can tend to lighten the nose over and above the front to rear weight balance.
It's simpler than that, the pinion is trying to climb over the crown gear so pushes away from the crown putting more load on the tyre on one side than the other.
It’s a bit of a cerebral thing..but that’s tuning...it’s art as well as science. Nice
Any one who knows were I can find that gear ratio chart he shows
I want Harry's chart. Link? Please
Its all a preference. Most guys at my club like angle winder. Me and a few more like sidewinder. I drive a sidewinder lot better. When we run slot it group c its a level racing field. There all in line. Group c are great.
Hey would you build cars for people
By the way, thumbs up to the Corvette Jake C7.R tee shirt.
for me and my mates the anglewinder is faster than sidewinder who is faster than inline-- fk180 is faster than fc 130 . we race magless on latexpainted mdf and scaley.
Of course a 10T pinion makes it dead easy to work out ratios.
What makes a slot car sqeal,loudly,
lack of oil?
You tune a car that's in theory IN MOTION.
So your stationary, the car is stationary but you imagine the car in motion.
The car has 4 points of contact with the road. When you brake for a corner, the rear 2 points of contact with the road loose traction and the motor weight influences rotational speed.
You never mentioned motor weight \ mounting location within the wheelbase.
This is the number 1 problem for all cars. The public DOESN'T educate themselves about how the motor mounting location influences driving.
People have no idea the motor causes the rear of the car to rotate during cornering.
They think cars get driven the same way regardless of where the motor is mounted.
People,
Front mounted engine cars must be driven in a DIFFERENT WAY to rear mounted engine cars.
I've seen so many new Porsche buyers spin their car into trees and die. For example, the crash with paul walker the actor.
You MUST say the basics cause the public doesn't educate themselves, including the most basic aspects.
They really are extremely uneducated.
They really do have the wrong belief that they think you drive a Ford the same way that you drive a General Motors car.
70 year old guys get in the rear engine mounted car and drive the same way as they always have and crash and die.
No one talks about components mounting location within the wheelbase as it related to influencing driveability.
You lost me when you said its not about winning, I am in it for the competition and strive to get the best out of the car and my driving (high speed thought).
the twist is still there! but instead of side to side it it's front to back putting more pressure on the braids
Under breaking yes, under acceleration the pinion is trying to climb over the spur gear which means trying to lift the front end.