The nice thing about slide film is that it is not a copy. It's the original. On prints, you're making a copy from the negative to make your first positive image. Slide film is tricky. It's color-reversal film. It's backwards. On print film, you concentrate more on the shadows for exposure. With slide film, you concentrate more on the highlights for exposure. Another good things about slide film is that it is good for testing your camera's meter, since the sildes are the actual film that was in the camera. If you use print film and drop the film off at a lab or whatever, they'll correct for it when making the prints. And also, colors on slide film as more vivid.
Hi Jess. I shot a lot of Ektachrome over the years. The most pleasant results for me came with: rating = 64, develop 100, using a 81b filter for slight warming. Hope this helps. Also best intro ever. I’ve got an Ektachrome 100 video on my channel too if you are interested. Cheers
A lot of the vivid stuff in NG was actually Kodachrome. Ektachrome is nice but not quite the same. The colour balance is fairly even on Ekta, but on Kodachrome the balance was tilted towards more cyan an magenta over the yellow hence the whacky 60's style reds and oranges you get on the Meierwitz, Franks and Leiter style pics of the period.
I’m a huge fan of slide film. Ive shot a good amount of provia before so I’m hyped to finally try out ektachrome. I have a specific project in mind for it, I just bought the rolls last week and they’re taking a while to ship here in Tokyo. My camera’s light meter has been kind of finicky recently so I haven’t been shooting as much slide recently but the release of Ektachrome has definitely inspired me to start shooting more slide. I’ll probably post the results to my instagram @ryanscullin in a few weeks if anyone’s interested
Hi Jess. I’m a little late to the party here. I haven’t shot the current incarnation of Ektachrome 100 but I shot it a lot from about 1990 to 2006. I used Ektachrome 50HC (later renamed EliteChrome 50) and later on, Ektachrome E100G. My own personal tastes had my most pleasing images at 1/3rd stop under, or setting the iso to 125 for E100G. The slight increase in saturation was pleasing to me and the shadows didn’t seem to suffer. Have you done much more Ektachrome, Fujichrome, or any slide film since you released this video?? If so, what did you find to be the most pleasing exposure settings?
I was in the same boat as you with ektachrome. Always wanted to shoot it and loved the look but never got the chance. I shot two rolls start of this year I think and cant even remember the pics. I still haven’t gotten it developed haha.
Hi Jess, given that the latitude is very narrow with E6 film i think they were very pleasing especially @400 ISO i liked the autumn tones. Any way another nice presentation and a big thumbs up from the other side of the pond here in the UK.
Now that was one in 1000 youtube recommendations that was absolutely enjoyable, binged your channel the whole day... well.. hour... didn't take long, unfortunately. :) Besides the fact that your videos are fun and refreshing, I learned one major thing today, that women apparently get Gear Acquisition Syndrome too. Oh, and how to make Sauerkraut from your partner, I guess something a German should know. Hurray!
Jess, look up Matt Marrash channel, he does a lot of developing too, (4x5 LF sheets) but does a great RA-4 reversal video ( under the Large format Friday streams); this does a great job of explaining what goes on, but here is my amateur, and Autistic version: unlike 'normal' film, using C-41/E6 chemistry, this film is DOUBLE developed, ie: the process develops, rinses, re-develops, then fixes LAST, so what the "red tinge" you describe is the fact that less silver ions/metal particles are there to develop, so the tone changes as the chemistry is acting on other ions /colours in the emulsion mix, also for slide film, the result is a POSITIVE, so some other ion is replacing the silver, as the silver light/dark is reversed to make the positive, so the silver is 'dumped', after the first 'shot', and so the other ions then take the "crater" the silver left behind, so as people say, if you DON'T expose this properly, you get a 'thin' negative, so less silver for the developer to do it's magic on, and there is nothing in the process to repair the lack of density later on.
Cool. I think the Ektachrome handles the 2-stop push pretty well. In a pinch I’d be okay with it. Back in “the old days” (the 1980s!) I exposed Kodachrome 64 at EI 80 and had it developed normally. This gave the film more punch color-wise. I got this from my dad, who told me the slight underexposure made the film look more like 1950s/60s Kodachrome, which he preferred. Think I might experiment with E100 exposed at 125 just to see what happens.
I did exactly the same back in the '80's. I think I remember reading back then that this was a pro photographers technique...I need to dig out my old slides again and have a look...
Love your enthusiasm, excitement, and sense of wonder. I have never seen, heard, or known of a woman (especially nowadays) express any interest in slide film. Granted, very few people period have interest in (35mm) slide film. Love that you're into it.
I've shot tons of E100 at 100 and I am absolutely in love with it. I have shot a few rolls at ISO 200 and was happy with that and would do it again. The 1 roll that I shot at ISO 400 convinced me to not do that again.
Hey Jess I am in the same boat I am more of a black and white shooter. I am still working through my first roll of Ektachrome I rather liked your 2 stop push results. Where did you get them processed if you don't mind me asking. I don't think my local will push process slide or c41.
I have limited use of color slide film, but what I have discovered is that it really does not like being underexposed. 1 stop over is fine but at 2 stops it loses detail again. On a different note regarding details, congrats on what happened between shooting the video of the shots and you releasing this. I'm guessing over Xmas or New Year.
for someone used to shooting color negative, their primary concern with slide film should be retaining highlight information. color negative can be overexposed by 3 stops and still retain information. color slide can be overexposed by about 1 stop before highlights blow out to white. and in that sense, it is much less forgiving. the common adage is "meter the shadows for color negative and meter the highlights for slide".
Great video, Jess. If you could bottle that enthusiasm of yours, and sell it, you'd make a fortune! Enjoy pushing the film to its limits (and beyond) and record what works (and what doesn't work) for you. Under-exposure (rating higher than box speed to get a faster shutter speed) tends to work better for slide film - but you can lose shadow detail. Over-exposing (rating lower than box speed to get slower shutter speeds) can blow highlights. Both can work well as a creative tool. Just keep up the great work.
@@vladamiskovic zdravo, Vlado! Slabo se ima vremena, pokušavam da se fokusiram na lab i izradu fotografija kada god imam vremena, imam dosta negativa koji zaslužuju pažnju. Vi?
There's only one speed for Ektachrome Jess it' ISO 100, I used to use the previous Ektachrome and it still has the same tendency to go blue in overcast conditions in which you should use a warming filter.
Although I have only shot Fuji slide film my own experience and feedback from other photographers E6 slide film does not play nice with under or overexposing. I am a bit surprised that the problems for under and over exposure seemed the same with E100. That being said it seems to be something with the different chemical process that makes slide film in general far less versatile.
When I shot ektachrome a lot of my shots were slightly underexposed. I think this is a film that benefits from a touch more exposure, perhaps rating at 64 and developing as usual. it seems to have a little more latitude than your average slide film
That ISO 400 and -1 stop description is confusing. I assume what you mean is N+1 and N+2 for this video? As you were underexposed so you increased the developing time accordingly. I heard transparency film does not have similar exposure latitude as negative film therefore over or under expose by 1 stop could result in color shift. Some nice shots there.
A really fun video. You have an engaging warm and friendly style. It is very helpful to see the different results achieved when shooting Ektachrome at different speeds. I like the music too.
Push and pull are more for contrast control than anything - there is no way to recover shadow detail through push processing. Slide film doesn’t tolerate being pushed because the reversal process creates a fairly high contrast image to begin with.
Hi Jess, I was wondering if you'd be able to help me. I shot some Ektachrome in summer at my best friend's wedding, however I forgot to change the ISO and shot it all at 400. I was panicking but after seeing this video and your results, I wanted to ask - would mine be save-able if I ask for the lab to push it 2? Do I write +2 on the roll? Thanks in advance!
I would absolutely have the roll pushed, it should salvage the roll! You might lose some shadow detail, but overall you should get decent results! I'd write +2 stops on the roll, but I'd also explain exactly what I want to the lab tech to make sure I get it developed the way that I want! Thanks for watching, and let me know if you share your results somewhere!
I always have over exposed slide film just a touch, (ie: 80 when shooting 100 speed film) just to brighten up the film a touch, but I know this is opposites what many long time film shooters of slide film would do.
Hahaha, I know! Actually Emulsive.org is a great resource, and a lot of bbn people do all kinds of things with film, including pushing slide film, so I think you'd feel at home there! I love to experiment, and I won't be told I can't do something, lol!
You are cute and have beautiful voice !! Great video ! Slide film (all of them) handles overexposure and underexposure pretty badly. With slide film better to shoot at box speed . Color negative ... any iso you want usually -2 or +2 stops works welll
Nice video. From my own experience and all I’ve seen online, rating this film at box speed produces by far the best results. Your two underexposed rolls (even the pushed one) lack a bit of the sparkle that makes this stuff worth shooting over negative film. ✨👍
Through the 80s and 90s photographers started shooting more with Ektachrome, but yes a lot of them still preferred Kodachrome! Who wouldn't?! Thanks for watching!
Personally, I never liked Ektachrome. The plain one, for the masses, what we have today. Not the 100 not ISO 400 speed. Too greenish for my taste, and often with magenta in the shadows, what's actually weird, contrary to the logic. Not particularly sharp also. Everything what was wrong with that particular emulsion is brought back to life, what kinda blows my mind. WHY? SO much investment, for what? That's so typically Kodak. On the contrary, I adored professional grade Ektachromes like 100s, 100VS & 100WS; I still have a few rolls of each in the deep freeze. My career lived on the back of those films in the late 90's and early 2000's. Rich colours and fine grain like Fuji's Velvia 100 just with tonality on the warm side. Now why didn't Kodak brought one of those films back is beyond me, while the cost of production might me the only excuse...
I get so confused by push and pull of film. So the film is 100 and you shoot it as such In camera but then the lab will process it to -1, +1 or +2 stops? Or you shoot as if the film is iso 80, or 400 or whatever but then have the lab process it normally?
I feel like your 400 speed film camera might have meter issues or the shutter speeds aren't accurate on that particular camera because the 400 speed looked very close to the underexposed roll. it seems like should have been closer to blown highlights not blown kid up shadows. that said some of the 400 speed images were nice too so that leads me to believe maybe the shutter speeds are not 100% on that camera.
Nice video and enthusiasm but the theory around the film speeds is way out of whack unfortunately. Shooting at 400 with an ISO 100 film is exactly the same as 2 stops under exposure eg not 2 stops over. I’m actually surprised you got anything much out of it at all as slide film is very strict with exposure latitude. Also a major issue is if you are shooting on aperture priority or Auto your meter on the three different cameras will read differently depending on where it is pointed. The only way to do this properly is to meter with an incident light meter and set all three cameras to the same aperture and shutter speed. Anyway just some thoughts- might be worth brushing up on the film speed theory as it will definitely help with your metering and getting things right in camera. Best of luck with it all - might be worth mentioning in the description about the errors so those new to film don’t get things confused too.
correct, by rating the film at 400 you are underexposing the film by 2 stops. however, she stated that the film was push processed (+2). the result is the correct exposure, albeit with high contrast.
1. Of course your 400-rated film was underexposed, pushing does not magically make your 100 speed film a 400 speed film. All it will do is push midtones and highlights to increase the contrast, where there is no information recorded there can not be developed anything. 2. Rating at 50 is not underexposure,it is overexposure. But maybe you just said the wrong word. 3. Color negative film is very different and you can not compare it, of course you will lose shadow detail when underexposing and push processing. Color neg like agfa Vista 400 can be exposed at anything between 50 and 400 without change in development. Slide film blows out the highlights fast so rating at 80 would likely yield worse results than rating at 100 or even 125. While color neg can hold several stops of overexposure (which is why they say: meter for the shadows with color neg)
Comment on point #1: For a target ISO push to 400, IMO the "push" was inadequate. This was probably just a matter of insufficient developing time in the first developer of the E-6 process. This appears where the highlights of the pushed film appear darker than those in the normally exposed and developed film. Of course, higher contrast (particularly with a high contrast subject, as here) will result with pushing. Because of the inadequate push processing, it's hard to see small color shifts, if any. As noted in point #3, the casual multi-stop speed rating of color film which new film photographers are used to with color negative films is just not available to use with color positive (slide) film. With E-6, you tow the rated speed or you use something else, or suffer serious loss of image quality.
The nice thing about slide film is that it is not a copy. It's the original. On prints, you're making a copy from the negative to make your first positive image. Slide film is tricky. It's color-reversal film. It's backwards. On print film, you concentrate more on the shadows for exposure. With slide film, you concentrate more on the highlights for exposure. Another good things about slide film is that it is good for testing your camera's meter, since the sildes are the actual film that was in the camera. If you use print film and drop the film off at a lab or whatever, they'll correct for it when making the prints. And also, colors on slide film as more vivid.
Hi Jess. I shot a lot of Ektachrome over the years. The most pleasant results for me came with: rating = 64, develop 100, using a 81b filter for slight warming. Hope this helps.
Also best intro ever.
I’ve got an Ektachrome 100 video on my channel too if you are interested.
Cheers
Jess, your excitement makes this such a fun channel to watch. It’s always a treat whenever I see that you’ve uploaded a new video.
Thank you so much Christopher, I really appreciate it!
A lot of the vivid stuff in NG was actually Kodachrome. Ektachrome is nice but not quite the same. The colour balance is fairly even on Ekta, but on Kodachrome the balance was tilted towards more cyan an magenta over the yellow hence the whacky 60's style reds and oranges you get on the Meierwitz, Franks and Leiter style pics of the period.
I’m a huge fan of slide film. Ive shot a good amount of provia before so I’m hyped to finally try out ektachrome. I have a specific project in mind for it, I just bought the rolls last week and they’re taking a while to ship here in Tokyo. My camera’s light meter has been kind of finicky recently so I haven’t been shooting as much slide recently but the release of Ektachrome has definitely inspired me to start shooting more slide.
I’ll probably post the results to my instagram @ryanscullin in a few weeks if anyone’s interested
Something silly like ISO! Ha! Brilliant! As someone who stand develops black and white, most often, I hear you!
Right?! There should never be limits to our creative possibilities!
What a lovely, interesting and entertaining video! though I thought you were about to burst there for a moment!!
Hi Jess.
I’m a little late to the party here. I haven’t shot the current incarnation of Ektachrome 100 but I shot it a lot from about 1990 to 2006. I used Ektachrome 50HC (later renamed EliteChrome 50) and later on, Ektachrome E100G. My own personal tastes had my most pleasing images at 1/3rd stop under, or setting the iso to 125 for E100G. The slight increase in saturation was pleasing to me and the shadows didn’t seem to suffer. Have you done much more Ektachrome, Fujichrome, or any slide film since you released this video?? If so, what did you find to be the most pleasing exposure settings?
I was in the same boat as you with ektachrome. Always wanted to shoot it and loved the look but never got the chance. I shot two rolls start of this year I think and cant even remember the pics. I still haven’t gotten it developed haha.
Hi Jess, given that the latitude is very narrow with E6 film i think they were very pleasing especially @400 ISO i liked the autumn tones. Any way another nice presentation and a big thumbs up from the other side of the pond here in the UK.
Lot of hardwork that you bring it up your 3 cameras outside, keep it up!!
Your videos make me excited about shooting film.
Now that was one in 1000 youtube recommendations that was absolutely enjoyable, binged your channel the whole day... well.. hour... didn't take long, unfortunately. :) Besides the fact that your videos are fun and refreshing, I learned one major thing today, that women apparently get Gear Acquisition Syndrome too. Oh, and how to make Sauerkraut from your partner, I guess something a German should know. Hurray!
Jess, look up Matt Marrash channel, he does a lot of developing too, (4x5 LF sheets) but does a great RA-4 reversal video ( under the Large format Friday streams); this does a great job of explaining what goes on, but here is my amateur, and Autistic version: unlike 'normal' film, using C-41/E6 chemistry, this film is DOUBLE developed, ie: the process develops, rinses, re-develops, then fixes LAST, so what the "red tinge" you describe is the fact that less silver ions/metal particles are there to develop, so the tone changes as the chemistry is acting on other ions /colours in the emulsion mix, also for slide film, the result is a POSITIVE, so some other ion is replacing the silver, as the silver light/dark is reversed to make the positive, so the silver is 'dumped', after the first 'shot', and so the other ions then take the "crater" the silver left behind, so as people say, if you DON'T expose this properly, you get a 'thin' negative, so less silver for the developer to do it's magic on, and there is nothing in the process to repair the lack of density later on.
Cool. I think the Ektachrome handles the 2-stop push pretty well. In a pinch I’d be okay with it.
Back in “the old days” (the 1980s!) I exposed Kodachrome 64 at EI 80 and had it developed normally. This gave the film more punch color-wise. I got this from my dad, who told me the slight underexposure made the film look more like 1950s/60s Kodachrome, which he preferred. Think I might experiment with E100 exposed at 125 just to see what happens.
David Kieltyka I’ve head that the new Ektachrome looks better shot at iso 200
We’ll see. I think that’s too much underexposure, unless you mean it looks better when exposed AND processed as an ISO 200 film.
I did exactly the same back in the '80's. I think I remember reading back then that this was a pro photographers technique...I need to dig out my old slides again and have a look...
Great video! I'm really enjoying your channel; just starting my own film photography journey myself. Keep up the awesome work :)
Welcome to the world of Film Photography!
Love your enthusiasm, excitement, and sense of wonder.
I have never seen, heard, or known of a woman (especially nowadays) express any interest in slide film. Granted, very few people period have interest in (35mm) slide film. Love that you're into it.
I've shot tons of E100 at 100 and I am absolutely in love with it. I have shot a few rolls at ISO 200 and was happy with that and would do it again. The 1 roll that I shot at ISO 400 convinced me to not do that again.
Hey Jess I am in the same boat I am more of a black and white shooter. I am still working through my first roll of Ektachrome I rather liked your 2 stop push results. Where did you get them processed if you don't mind me asking. I don't think my local will push process slide or c41.
I have limited use of color slide film, but what I have discovered is that it really does not like being underexposed. 1 stop over is fine but at 2 stops it loses detail again.
On a different note regarding details, congrats on what happened between shooting the video of the shots and you releasing this. I'm guessing over Xmas or New Year.
for someone used to shooting color negative, their primary concern with slide film should be retaining highlight information. color negative can be overexposed by 3 stops and still retain information. color slide can be overexposed by about 1 stop before highlights blow out to white. and in that sense, it is much less forgiving. the common adage is "meter the shadows for color negative and meter the highlights for slide".
Jess Hobbs, you need to try Fuji Provia, in 120 format it's wonderful for landscapes. Very accurate colours and produces nice results.
Thanks for doing so much work for the video, ISO 400 looks great! Good to know for the future
Great video, Jess. If you could bottle that enthusiasm of yours, and sell it, you'd make a fortune! Enjoy pushing the film to its limits (and beyond) and record what works (and what doesn't work) for you. Under-exposure (rating higher than box speed to get a faster shutter speed) tends to work better for slide film - but you can lose shadow detail. Over-exposing (rating lower than box speed to get slower shutter speeds) can blow highlights. Both can work well as a creative tool. Just keep up the great work.
You would be amazed in how these films work in the studio at box speed 100. I have done it and it worked.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I prefer the -1 stop version for most of these. It adds a lot to the feel of the images.
Haha! Your accurately describes everyone's collective feelings towards the great return of Ektachrome! P.S. Your channel rocks. SUBSCRIBED!!
Jess, thanks a lot for the effort put in this video, I found it quite useful. Cheers from Serbia
Slikate li šta?
Pozdrav od Vlade
@@vladamiskovic zdravo, Vlado! Slabo se ima vremena, pokušavam da se fokusiram na lab i izradu fotografija kada god imam vremena, imam dosta negativa koji zaslužuju pažnju. Vi?
Jess, this was fun to watch.
Very entertaining look at your experience with ektachrome. Thanks for sharing
There's only one speed for Ektachrome Jess it' ISO 100, I used to use the previous Ektachrome and it still has the same tendency to go blue in overcast conditions in which you should use a warming filter.
Although I have only shot Fuji slide film my own experience and feedback from other photographers E6 slide film does not play nice with under or overexposing. I am a bit surprised that the problems for under and over exposure seemed the same with E100. That being said it seems to be something with the different chemical process that makes slide film in general far less versatile.
When I shot ektachrome a lot of my shots were slightly underexposed. I think this is a film that benefits from a touch more exposure, perhaps rating at 64 and developing as usual. it seems to have a little more latitude than your average slide film
That ISO 400 and -1 stop description is confusing. I assume what you mean is N+1 and N+2 for this video? As you were underexposed so you increased the developing time accordingly. I heard transparency film does not have similar exposure latitude as negative film therefore over or under expose by 1 stop could result in color shift. Some nice shots there.
some great photos! I think the film mostly looks best at box speed, just my thoughtd though
A really fun video. You have an engaging warm and friendly style. It is very helpful to see the different results achieved when shooting Ektachrome at different speeds. I like the music too.
Push and pull are more for contrast control than anything - there is no way to recover shadow detail through push processing.
Slide film doesn’t tolerate being pushed because the reversal process creates a fairly high contrast image to begin with.
Hi Jess, I was wondering if you'd be able to help me. I shot some Ektachrome in summer at my best friend's wedding, however I forgot to change the ISO and shot it all at 400. I was panicking but after seeing this video and your results, I wanted to ask - would mine be save-able if I ask for the lab to push it 2? Do I write +2 on the roll? Thanks in advance!
I would absolutely have the roll pushed, it should salvage the roll! You might lose some shadow detail, but overall you should get decent results! I'd write +2 stops on the roll, but I'd also explain exactly what I want to the lab tech to make sure I get it developed the way that I want! Thanks for watching, and let me know if you share your results somewhere!
@@JessHobbs That's brilliant, thank you for getting back to me! Hoping to save the roll, I'll let you know if I post anywhere once I get them back!
Excitable and hot in a very weird way. Especially the hammer throw
I always have over exposed slide film just a touch, (ie: 80 when shooting 100 speed film) just to brighten up the film a touch, but I know this is opposites what many long time film shooters of slide film would do.
Thank you so much for this! If i ask about pushing slide film anywhere online, everyone tries to kill me instead
Hahaha, I know! Actually Emulsive.org is a great resource, and a lot of bbn people do all kinds of things with film, including pushing slide film, so I think you'd feel at home there! I love to experiment, and I won't be told I can't do something, lol!
You are cute and have beautiful voice !! Great video ! Slide film (all of them) handles overexposure and underexposure pretty badly. With slide film better to shoot at box speed . Color negative ... any iso you want usually -2 or +2 stops works welll
Nice video. From my own experience and all I’ve seen online, rating this film at box speed produces by far the best results. Your two underexposed rolls (even the pushed one) lack a bit of the sparkle that makes this stuff worth shooting over negative film. ✨👍
I always thought national geographic film of choice was Kodachrome?
Through the 80s and 90s photographers started shooting more with Ektachrome, but yes a lot of them still preferred Kodachrome! Who wouldn't?! Thanks for watching!
Ektachrome : expensive, not a good film outside of box speed
Jess : *Proceeds to push and underexpose*
BEST INTRO EVER!
you convinced me to buy a roll. best 25 dollars spent
you're getting ripped off! it's $13!
@@lucile2 i live in australia. 13usd is about 25 aud
@@vixonhq3417 oh phew!!!
@@lucile2 We always get ripped in Aus! $$
This is so fun!
Something odd around the 7:00 minute mark - looks like you exchanged the ISO100 and ISO400 images when you went to the zoomed-in versions?
New sub 🙋🏻♂️. Nice channel
Personally, I never liked Ektachrome. The plain one, for the masses, what we have today. Not the 100 not ISO 400 speed. Too greenish for my taste, and often with magenta in the shadows, what's actually weird, contrary to the logic. Not particularly sharp also. Everything what was wrong with that particular emulsion is brought back to life, what kinda blows my mind. WHY? SO much investment, for what? That's so typically Kodak.
On the contrary, I adored professional grade Ektachromes like 100s, 100VS & 100WS; I still have a few rolls of each in the deep freeze. My career lived on the back of those films in the late 90's and early 2000's. Rich colours and fine grain like Fuji's Velvia 100 just with tonality on the warm side. Now why didn't Kodak brought one of those films back is beyond me, while the cost of production might me the only excuse...
Preskup je taj ektachrome.
@@vladamiskovic za to što taj film jest, apsolutno...
I like the look the film gets at 400iso.
Brilliant vid :-) Really surprised at the results.
mit freundlichem Gruß aus dem Schaumburger Land
Matthias
So did you push the film +1 in developing when you shot at 400? Or was that just an in camera push?
I exposed it as if it was ISO 400 and then had it push-processed as well.
I get so confused by push and pull of film. So the film is 100 and you shoot it as such In camera but then the lab will process it to -1, +1 or +2 stops? Or you shoot as if the film is iso 80, or 400 or whatever but then have the lab process it normally?
I feel like your 400 speed film camera might have meter issues or the shutter speeds aren't accurate on that particular camera because the 400 speed looked very close to the underexposed roll. it seems like should have been closer to blown highlights not blown kid up shadows. that said some of the 400 speed images were nice too so that leads me to believe maybe the shutter speeds are not 100% on that camera.
Film Shooter the iso400 roll is underexposed 2 stops and pushed in development
Danny Somerville duh you are right not sure what I was thinking.
Haha. It’s kinda confusing the way it’s explained in the video.
Danny Somerville I guess I assumed she was doing one roll at box speed and one over and one under
so you set one at 400 iso, one at 100 iso and one at 50 iso ( +1 stop) or at 200 iso ( -1stop) ?
Nice video and enthusiasm but the theory around the film speeds is way out of whack unfortunately. Shooting at 400 with an ISO 100 film is exactly the same as 2 stops under exposure eg not 2 stops over. I’m actually surprised you got anything much out of it at all as slide film is very strict with exposure latitude. Also a major issue is if you are shooting on aperture priority or Auto your meter on the three different cameras will read differently depending on where it is pointed. The only way to do this properly is to meter with an incident light meter and set all three cameras to the same aperture and shutter speed. Anyway just some thoughts- might be worth brushing up on the film speed theory as it will definitely help with your metering and getting things right in camera. Best of luck with it all - might be worth mentioning in the description about the errors so those new to film don’t get things confused too.
correct, by rating the film at 400 you are underexposing the film by 2 stops. however, she stated that the film was push processed (+2). the result is the correct exposure, albeit with high contrast.
What is that device you're using as a lightbox?
It's a Huion Light Pad
1. Of course your 400-rated film was underexposed, pushing does not magically make your 100 speed film a 400 speed film. All it will do is push midtones and highlights to increase the contrast, where there is no information recorded there can not be developed anything.
2. Rating at 50 is not underexposure,it is overexposure. But maybe you just said the wrong word.
3. Color negative film is very different and you can not compare it, of course you will lose shadow detail when underexposing and push processing. Color neg like agfa Vista 400 can be exposed at anything between 50 and 400 without change in development. Slide film blows out the highlights fast so rating at 80 would likely yield worse results than rating at 100 or even 125. While color neg can hold several stops of overexposure (which is why they say: meter for the shadows with color neg)
Comment on point #1: For a target ISO push to 400, IMO the "push" was inadequate. This was probably just a matter of insufficient developing time in the first developer of the E-6 process. This appears where the highlights of the pushed film appear darker than those in the normally exposed and developed film. Of course, higher contrast (particularly with a high contrast subject, as here) will result with pushing. Because of the inadequate push processing, it's hard to see small color shifts, if any. As noted in point #3, the casual multi-stop speed rating of color film which new film photographers are used to with color negative films is just not available to use with color positive (slide) film. With E-6, you tow the rated speed or you use something else, or suffer serious loss of image quality.