ICOM IC-706MKiiG Won't Power ON.... FREE FIX!!!!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Video tutorial on what could be wrong with your Icom 706MKiiG. In this video I show details on where the problem could lie. Symptoms are radio is dead,.. no clicking no nothing. When you've checked all the obvious things like fuse, power cable, fuses in the radio.. etc.. and all the obvious thing check out.. then this could be the culprit.
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This video is approaching priceless. Many radios on EBay are sold As IS.. with most saying Unit will power up, no further testing done, or Unit will not power up... people like me and many others may take a chance because we feel a simple fix may be all that is required. Now I will search eBay for this radio. Very nicely done. Good lighting, good photos and video, no Annoying music. Your fix should have been something a Assembler at the factory could have suggested.
Thank U!
My 706 behaved a little differently. I went into the motor home where I have it mounted to find it making a continual "CLICK CLICK CLICK..." and occasionally coming on completely. Took it down per your instructions and found exactly what you did. Patched the corroded spot and all is well again! Only difference is I removed BOTH rubber pads completely. In my opinion the board is plenty stiff without the support of the pads, and they are obviously highly corrosive!
In my case, it's likely that the corrosion was carrying enough current to ALMOST power it up, but not enough to keep it going. Thanks much and 73! de Harvey WB5MCT
Harvey Babb Excellent!... Glad this was able to help 😁😁
Holy cow, you are my hero...my trace gap wasn't nearly as obvious as yours, it looked like just a tiny dot, but it was in exactly the same spot! After scraping away the trace on either side of gap and then dropping some solder with a tiny wire in there, it turned on!
A couple notes about removing the PLL board for others trying this out:
1: There are 2 voltage regulators with heat sink clips on them that hold the board in place even if you remove all the screws...make sure you pull those two clips off (Top left and bottom right corners) before trying to pull the board out.
2: (Probably obvious to everyone else) When he is pointing to the wire at the bottom left corner and talking about disconnecting it, you have to take the top panel of the chassis off to get to the plug. Then it slides right out, as he described. I didn't understand what he was saying about that.
Awesome! I'm glad you got it going again... :-) Good tips.. thanks.
Had this same problem on my 706mk2g which I run remote, thought it was an issue with remote rig box as it was intermittent, found your video and opened the 706 up to find the exact same issue, 1 hour later the radio is reassembled and up and running..THANKS VERY MUCH!!!!
Great story! Thanks for watching.... :-)
Thanks for posting this. Helped me save a 706MKIIG from the bin! At first glance, radio looked pristine inside. Went to look for schematics and your video was one of the first links I looked at. Pulled the pad off, looked like someone had gouge a hole in the trace. Again, many thanks! I'd like to add that the other pad also had corrosion!!!
That's excellent! Thanks for posting the comment.. :-)
I just wanted to thank you, this was my issue and the repair worked wonderfully. My issue started as an intermittent recieve/transmit then later it was clicking when off and eventually was dead. I did eliminate the rubber pad as well. Thank you for saving me a bunch of time!
That's awesome! So glad I was able to help... 😀
Have 3 of these radios. One has been on the shelf with this exact problem. Today I pulled the PLL board and definitely a corroded open trace. I now have another radio back on the air. Thanks for posting.
That's awesome! So glad you got it going again... 😎
man this was a lifesaver. sure enough after i checked reverse diode protection and several ribbon connections, i found your video and bammmm there it was. same place. same issue. same fix. appreciate the heck out of it man.
That's so awesome! So glad I was able to help...
Thanks for the fix! My 706 was idle for a while and then didn't power on. Thanks for taking time to make the RUclips video and sharing your expertise!
Excellent! Thanks for the comment.. :-)
Thanks a lot! Mine has a (very seldom) intermittent power off issue, sometimes during listening, but mostly when you first power it up. Now the cooling fan doesn't come on. I've heard on W2AEW's channel that corrosion issues cause a lot of power issues. I would imagine mobile operation doesn't help. I bought this radio new in 2004 when I lived in SC. It spent five years in the heat of the car, and I also brought it back and forth to use in the shack as well. I'm too cheap to buy two radios! I moved to Maine in 2011 and this radio spent the summers and winters here for five more years in the opposite extreme environment! It now stays stationary in the shack after several years of being in storage, I've started using it again. P.S. I enjoyed the F150 bed removal video. That job went well, so thanks twice! 73's!
Awesome.. yes it's a good radio. I hope you can get to the bottom of it.. You're welcome.. 😊😊
Just fixed mine with exactly the same issue. I still measured 10k ish where it should have been closer to 0. I bet this has killed a lot of this good old radios.... Thanks and 73, VE1TV.
That's awesome! Glad you got it going. Yes I'll bet there were a lot of "Tech special" radios sold on eBay with this issue that were sold cheap and turned out to be a free fix..
I just bought one of these radios on the used market, as I do for a lot of my stuff, not just my radio gear. I usually search around for common problems so I can be prepared, stumbled on your video. This is the second time I’ve seen a helpful video from you on this radio (watched the HF mod video). I think the real skill is that you actually identified the problem here! Thanks for posting, I hope I don’t have this issue. I’m considering opening her up and looking before it becomes an issue though now!
Excellent! Glad I could help... yea if you open it up just look at the section of trace there to see if there's any signs of corrosion... then as Barney Fife said.. Nip it in the bud!...
@@JLPicard440 shared this video with a friend of mine that has a couple of these radios to fix. He opened it up and found a break in the trace in the exact same spot as yours. Now that radio is back to life.
@@ryanjones9305 That's awesome! That problem must be more common than I thought..
@@JLPicard440 I’ll let you know, we have two more of these radios to check. Both are working at the moment, but we figure it’s time to do some PM. Another friend of mine said his had the same problem on his. So out of 706 owners I know, including you, I’m batting a thousand. I’ll let you know how those other two look.
@@ryanjones9305 Thank u!
Thanks for the tip.... you're right about not being able to see the open at a glance due to the glue that remains on the board. I visually traced the land and measured the resistance at the two feed thrus on the pcb and it was open. I used brake clean to remove the glue and used my iphone in hi mag mode and looked at the problem area, the open stuck out like a sore thumb. All's good now. One more point.. the black relay located right next to the fuse on the PA Board was clicking like crazy, it doesn't do that anymore after the fix. Thanks again. 73 DE WA2MO
I'm so glad this video was able to help people. Thanks for the feedback..😊
Hey great video. Had to work on the pll section today and put back together. would not power up. Watched your video and remembered many years ago I encountered the problem you did. So I went back over that area and put on some actual fine wire to replace the track. Radio now works! Thanks for the reminder!
Nice work! So glad this video was able to help someone get their gear going again.. 😀
many thanks, just fixed one with this exact problem, used a fibre tipped brush and cleaned up all the ribbon connectors as well, sprayed switch cleaner inside them, all working perfectly now :-) very thin ceramic capacitor leg was used to bridge the broken track, used some firm sponge in place of the rubber pads, used shoe glue to glue hem to the case, had to use 2 x pairs of plus 3 glasses at the same time to do it LOL, thanks again would never have found this otherwise.
That's so awesome! I'm glad you were able to bring it back to life..
Thanku i couldnt believe i had the same problem . u saved me a heap of time debugging. all fixed now. ps dont forget 2 remove the pll board's 8v reg and audio amps heat sink clips before flipping the board over. I used the pcb vias as soldering points to jumper broken track
You're welcome! Thanks for the info and I'm glad I was able to help😀
Thanks for your video the fault was the same with my rig. You were right very hard to see but checked each end with a multi meter and no continuity removed pad and no track thanks again regards Rob
Thank you so much for this video. I brought a dead MKIIG back to life!! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
That's awesome.. Glad I was able to help.. 😊😊
Unbelievable! That was exactly the issue with my 706 as well. How in the world did you find it? Nice job on the video and many thanks!!!
I don't remember how I found it. I think it was by accident...!
Thanks for this video, I fixed my radio !! it was mounted in my mobile and started switching on and off randomly. After pulling it apart, I found exactly what you described.
Thanks again. vk3ae
That's excellent! So glad I could help... 😀
Thank you sir. zeroed in on the spot and you proved to have the answer.
Glad it helped.. You're welcome
Thank you another ham thought he stuck it to me good but laugh on him I fixed it with your help
That stinks that another ham did that... I guess there's no code anymore about doing that kind of stuff to people... I'm glad I was able to help!!
You're the one man.. just saved for few extra hours of tracing the problem.
Excellent... yep, this seems to be a pretty common problem with these radios.. glad it helped..
Many thanks. The problem was exactly same on my rtx. Just fixed it and now its alive again.
Awesome! Glad I could help.. 🙂
My 706mkiig has sitting in storage dead for about 2years. Being in a COVID lock down for the next 2 weeks, will have to pull mine out and check this, and see if the issue is as simple as you have shown in your video.
I sure hope so! Good luck..
@@JLPicard440
Happy to report my IC-706 switched back on again today after 2 years thanks to your video. Checked UHF/VHF Bands today after putting the 706 all back together, and able to key into a couple of my local repeaters.
So will install it into my car tomorrow, and see if the HF side is working too, or if I have other issues such as finals.
Thanks again
@@grant209 So excellent! I'm glad you got it going again...
And another 706mk2g saved from the tip thanks vk3hp
Awesome! So glad I could help..
Thank you very much for making this video! I followed you instructions and foud the same PCB track open. I will do the repair this week and see what happens. Thank again for all your help!
Thats excellent!! If you've confirmed that the trace is open, then that's most likely it!
Take a Bath Productions Hello Rudy....I hope I spelled your name correctly. At first the radio would not power on after I did the repair. Further troubleshooting revealed the ribbon cable wasn't making a good connection. I made a temporary repair using tape and a thin piece of plastic to make the cable fit tighter. Look like it is running solid! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
Don Cooper great!! Thanks
Do you have a good POC for Icom parts. I need to purchase the ribbon cable that connects the top and bottom circuit boards.
HI Don, other than calling Icom themselves.. I'm not sure.. If you had a part number you might try RF Parts or Mouser
Excellent video, I have the same radio and restored a track under the pad but the MKIIG radio still does not turn on. A hug
Oh no! Sorry to hear that..
@@JLPicard440 THANK YOU AND OH KINDLY FOR responding, I have already managed to turn it on, but it has no power, not even VHF, UHF, HF, and apparently the final transistors measure well, is there any other open component?
@@HI5MLE I would think there's a different circuit between HF and VHF/UHF.. I checked mods.dk and only found a thread saying "No TX/RX on VHF/UHF" but does your radio have RX on all bands? Not sure what that would be..
@@JLPicard440 Thsnks my friend
@@JLPicard440 Thanks, Yes the radio have RX in Bands
Can u go up a little further and connect it where there is more on the board ? Just asking as a tech . Maybe it’s better shorter ? Unsure . Cleanliness ? I believe I may have this problem growing more often . Gonna change out line in first then we go to your plan. Oh ( sorry ? ) thanks for the tip man While I’m at it , “do you have a way of putting on power pole connectors instead of this lame connection with all its wires hanging from it “?
HI Victor, I don't see why you couldn't go up farther on the board to find better "meat" to connect to. If it's an RF line Yes you want to minimize the length of anything since it'll change the characteristics of the circuit, but I'm pretty sure this one is just power. It shouldn't matter if it's a little longer. I don't like the factory connectors either. The only way to add a power pole would be to completely pull off the factory plug and run a short pig tail through the hole where the factory one was. It won't look great but should work. Just be sure to protect the wires where they pass through the hole so there's no rough edges that can cut a hole in the short wire. Or maybe there's a surface mount available for power pole that would be a close fit. I haven't seen one, but that doesn't mean anything.. 😂
Excellent instructional video, to the point and right on. Thanks very much
You're welcome!
Worked for me. Mine was a via that had rotted out, same place, same cause.
Excellent!
Nice tutorial thanks. My Ic-706 makes a relay "click" for about half a second on attempting to switch on (with some speaker hiss) but immediately cuts out dead. Is this the same fualt as yours or was yours completely dead (i.e. no sound of a relay for a split second then dead)?
Best wishes
Peter G0LQU
HI Peter, if I remember right it was completely dead. No nothing. I have heard of those inline fuses on those acting weird like that. You might want to check it and make sure there's no corrosion in there or anything like that.
Thanks for posting. This fixed my mkiig!
Great to hear.. 🙂. You're welcome!
Greetings dear friend. Could you help me to be in the SET MODE ADJUSTMENT of the Icom IC-706 MKIIG? I don't know the type and configuration of the Plug that is connected to the REMOTE to access its Service Menu.
HI, I'm not sure how to answer that off the top of my head. I don't actually have a copy of the MKIIG service manual. That information will be in there. I did find the MKiiG service manual online. It's on mods.dk You have to have an account to access it, but it's free. They've never spammed me. Once you get on there on the left side you'll see main menu, then manuals. Click manuals/ icom, then scroll down until you see it. It's under/ "IC-706MKIIG Service Manual Revised June 2007.zip".
many thanks fix my issue
Excellent! You're welcome.. 😀
Looks like I have the same problem. What are people using to get the black rubber pads off?, and are those grey coax cables soldered in? TIA Mark VK4AU
I don't remember if the grey coax was soldered in. I think typically they plug in. I don't have access to that rig anymore.. I would maybe use some alcohol to get the rubber off... or some electronics cleaner. Goof off or something like that is probably to harsh and might remove the green from the board..
Perhaps u can helped me Sir..the knob of my IC-706 MK2 is not working..i cant turned it to adjust freq..is there any settings or way to fix this?
HI. I don't have access to that radio anymore, but I don't remember any settings that would turn off the VFO knob. I guess there's a possibility the encoder is bad, but I'm not sure how to prove it. It's probably an expensive part. I googled that problem and looked on mods.dk and didn't see anything...
I don’t not know is this is the same problem I have but it could be because mine started shutting off, but it did start on and then it shut off by himself. It was like you turn it on and 15 minutes you shut off, and sometimes did not want to start but later on you, plug it in again, and it goes on, but otherwise sadly it didn’t went back on and stay off and now it would not start. I don’t know if this is a relay issue or maybe it is that section there I am going to take it apart. I have nothing to lose.
HI, it's possible. Without taking it apart to inspect the trace on the board, there's no way to tell if that's the problem... One place you might check is mods.dk They list different types of problems that people have reported over the years. They do require you to sign up for a free account, but they've never spammed me.
Just fixed a friends 706mk2g - Same issue - backup and working again.
Excellent! Glad you got it going again..
@@JLPicard440 Thanks for the video - I'd imagine it took took a while diagnose this fault first time around. The only concern I really had was removing the pinkish colored ribbon cable. Especially after I saw a video where it had lifted the socket off the board.
@@paulmurtagh9823 Yes, seems like I was reading a thread somewhere and it talked about the problem.. .. Yes, you have to be careful with those ribbon cables, they're pretty tough, but still have to be gentle with them... :-)
My 706MKiiG has the same issue. I am not confident in doing the repair myself. Can someone suggest who I could send it too. I am in Rhode Island. Thanks
The only person I would recommend is Icom themselves. They'll probably charge quite a pretty penny.
Is there a way to create a jumper from the other side to prove if that is the problem? I have a internmit problem with mine. Some times it will power up and other times it won't. If I shut the supply off then turn it back on it will power up. Very strange.
The owner of this radio said this one was doing the same thing... I know of a couple other people who have had a intermittent problem just like what you said there... I think it's possible that it could be this problem in the beginning stages... but I don't know of a way to jump out the board... the connections are so small I don't see how you'd get alligator clips on it... You almost have to pull the board and flip it over... and then take the rubber pad off to see if it looks suspicious.... Sorry I don't have a better answer... I know when I first flipped the board over, there was those flashing marks on the aluminum chassis, so it was pretty obvious something was going on in that area... if your chassis looks clean.,.. then it's probably something else..
With the board still in place and looking into that corner area I don't see what you had on the metal in
the area. Do you know where on the schmatic that etch you repared is located? I had the problem back
about a month and went through several trouble shooting measurements with someone who repairs them.
All voltages measured good. Then all of a sudden it started working again. The person that was working with me on it said based on the voltages (while it was not working) he ruled out that etch line.
He thought it might have been dirty contacts at the control head mating with the body. I did clean them
but no change. Like I said all of sudden it started working again. Now its acting up.
When I turn on the power supply it won't power up. If I cycle the supply a few times while trying to power
up after each power supply cycle it will come on during of the tries. Real strange.
I would like to see a video rmoving the board. I might remove it just to put it to rest if that is the problem.
Ken
HI Ken, .. yes I apologize for not videoing the actual removing of the board.. when I was doing that, I wasn't even sure I was barking up the right tree... before i knew it i already had it fixed .... minus the video!! I would take something non conductive like the back side of a ink pen or something like that.. and lightly poke around on that board... and around the other boards... it definitely sounds like something like a bad solder joint or the like... I have the schematic but I didn't see where that junction was at that went bad... unfortunately i've given the radio back to it's owner so videoing the removal of the board will be a bit difficult until i get my hands on another one..
Page 8-10 of the service manual and its the track that D271 is on the service manual is here:
www.repeater-builder.com/icom/pdfs/ic-706mk2g-svc-man.pdf
It will be on page 62 out of the 85 pages in that PDF
Interesting, I have the opposite problem on my 706 mk2g. I can't switch it off with the power button on the front panel. Either have to switch off the power supply, or pull the DC lead from the back of the radio.
That is a weird problem. Have you tried to google that issue to see if anything useful comes back?
@@JLPicard440 it could be something simple like a new tactile switch...
@@LeeWalklin That's not a push in and lock switch on that rig is it? I seem to remember it's just a momentary push switch. If it was the switch it wouldn't turn on either..
@@JLPicard440 it’s a momentary tactile switch
@@LeeWalklin Thats a good one. I did a search to see if anything popped up on that one not turning off. Everything was for not turning on. Checked mods.dk as well and didn't see anything listed either.. ☹️
Are you still Repair radios I do have a icom completely dead could I have your address to send my ICOM to repair.
HI, I don't repair commercially. Thanks for thinking of me..
Did anyone take off the other pad? It looks like trouble also...
I didn't
I have a dead ICOM 706. Can someone fix it for me?
I have had the same problem on mine !!!!!!!!!!!
Did you get it fixed?
A week ago I forgot the 706mk2g on and few days later entering in my shak I heard tic-tic-tic ....shaked restarted normally ...suddenly again stop, restart, stop.so I decided ! ... and following tracks helped by the service manual I found the problem. Meanwhile I discovered the 30 pin ribbon cable cooked where are the power HV and 14. Total cleaning , rust converter in some points, the track has been re-established....
Then looking on RUclips I found your video with the same problem.
Actually I'm waiting for the new ribbon cable to turn on the radio.
Sorry for my english!
I fixed it. Now it works. I also changed the flat cable connected to j254 30pins 0.5
Excellent!
You want to fix my ic706, not the mkii it’s the original version
HI, I don't really accept radios in for repair. Thanks for the offer... :-)
@@JLPicard440 all good brother love! I got it fired up. Ended up being nothing more than some dirty corroded contacts
@@SolarDrew That's awesome! Glad you got it going... 🤓
Tried 100 times to watch this video but it freezes at 1:00min
It might be something on your end.. I was able to see it to the end.