Poundland USB vacuum teardown.
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- I'm not very keen on the use of violent inductive loads in laptop or computer USB ports, but this vacuum does yield acceptable results when used with a USB power bank. This video features the mass consumption of humble pie as I jump to reckless conclusions twice.
This vacuum also features a very hot transistor used in a rather odd and minimalist way to bring the thing slightly nearer USB compliance. And I use the word "compliance" very loosely indeed.
The only thing in poundland that doesn't suck ._.
are you just Ashens putting on a Scottish accent?
+mickyhamps Shhhh! Don't blow my cover.
+bigclivedotcom oh bugger! sorry stu... I mean Clive!
thanks, i found one more interesting channel!
+Clever and Original Username. your wish has sorta been granted!
Clever and Original Username.
someone get a woman.
this man is holding a cleaning aparatus without proper supervision.
Haha, USB vacuum cleaner! :D At this rate, everything will be powered by a USB. :D
One of the things which would be REALLY useful, is a USB toaster. I saw one on the internet some time back, but it turned out to be an april-fools prank. REALLY?!!
......The other prank was a smoke alarm which emitted a nice gentle pleasant birdsong in the event of a house fire. :D
So then..... USB vacuum cleaner which runs on 5v. Hmmm...... I say whip-off that USB plug and replace it with a 6v or even 9v wall wart which outputs DC.
You know..... the wall-wart which was salvaged from a cordless phone which refused to work anymore.
An extra volt would make it go a tad faster, but 9v would have that thing going overtime! :D LMAO!
Then, once you've got it going on a nice 150mA wall-wart, you could then 'hack' it inside and have away with all that current-limiting electronic hocus-pocus and then it'll RIP RIIIIIIGHT UP, for the optimum suckage. :D
Thanxx for showing,
-BoomBoxDeluxe.
_11th April 2015, 18.19_
Have you checked usb 3.1 and the usb power delivery specification? At 100W it starts to get useful, just don't wait for usb powered laser printers.
Erlend Ervik Or Powered USB, been around for a very long time now, available in 5v, 12v and 24v at 6amps
+BoomBoxDeluxe Power over USB master race
"That really sucks!" No it doesn't.
+Gribbo9999 That pun is on par with his gold jokes.
Which words should be featured in a Clive video drinking game?
I vote for "not 100% sure", "modest", "that's odd"
Clive, you're great!
+Paxmax "Wee bit"
+John Dorwin Haha, yeah! that is a good one, love it... a wee bit more!
I think its mostly just for your laptop keyboard after that sandwich
I imagine bigclive just wondering the aisles of poundland looking for his next video
I actually bought one of these years ago and the moment I plugged it into the computer it shut down the USB ports, saying the device is drawing too much power. Didn't work too bad with a USB phone charger plug though.
could probably bridge the contacts on the turbo button so that it's always in turbo mode? 🤔
(off topic from video) why do they put glowing leds inside enclosed cases? I opened a 21 stereo graphic equalizer to dust it and it had a bright blue LED glowing. I couldn't even see it all closed up and in solid darkness just the red power indicator light. it was like an electric easter egg.
+Pat P Either because it may be available in a case where that LED is visible, or just as a power indicator for checking things during testing at the factory or when it's being repaired.
+Pat P I've seen LEDs use for indicating that the internal high value capacitors are charged before, so it could be that too :)
+Pat P ... maybe we've reached a weird point where it's actually cheaper/easier for them to use an LED instead of a plain diode plus low value resistor, and the light output is neither here nor there?
I guess it's just for the lulz
Could have been used as a voltage reference.
Because everything has to be USB.
It's right there in the acronym, duh... :)
To make it work much better:
1. Open it up and put a resistor on the LED (mine always have the LED stuck straight to the motor with no resistor!)
2. Close it
3. Cut the USB connector leaving the wire intact (keep the length the same, this is important!!)
4. Solder a 12V connector of your choice to the wire
5. Connect to 12V. It works wonders!!
The thin wire drops enough voltage (it gets quite warm) so that the motor works fast but does not overspeed.
Err, I'd be worried about it damaging anything it was plugged into via inductive flyback since there is no flyback protection at all. Or does USB include some sort of flyback protection since it's hot plug?
YAAY! I happened upon this very piece of crap in Poundland and my first thoughts were "I wonder what's inside? Bigclive should take that to pieces" A wish come true!
Praise Satan!
lol! I have one of these that I use with a USB power bank. It actually works pretty well to get dust off camera lenses etc!
I have watched a lot of your videos lately. Notably your shit sparkle pills, Your pink usb charger sing a long and the flaming bible. I love them all! I am starting to think that either you work for poundland or you are one of their biggest money makers haha. Thanks for the videos!
oh dont wish him a job at poundland, that would be very cruel
jusb1066 At least he would have many more videos of weird, wonderful and shitty gadgets to teardown :)
I’m actually so glad I discovered this channel, it’s so fascinating
"That really sucks" no it don't.
I never trusted these with my computer..m but i have atleast 3... Because i have a socket right infront of my desk that is on hands reach, i just plug it in to a 2.1 amp phone charger. Works great!
In the United States, we have Dollar Trees instead of PoundLand, and since 1 pound is worth almost 1.50 USD, it is insane the difference of what you can get even when you add 50 cents to the equation. They would never have a USB Vaccum at a dollar tree (Atleast around here,[I think])
kinda pointless, I just wipe dust with my hand and vacuum it a while later with my whole room lol.
Me thinks the transistor is being used in resistive mode. The gate is in parallel with the NPN resistance, so if NPN switches on fully it would starve the gate, which raises the body resistance. Thus, it would settle in the semi conductive region determined by gate resistor, body resistance, and component gain.
The USB-Ports on my old Laptopt with USB 2.0 only were capable of delivering 1.5 Amp continous. Almost NO manufacturer EVER respected the current limit of USB standard, luckily! Because no 2.5 inch HDD w/o own PSU would have ever run on USB. USB with the 2.0 current spec is not usable at all and 100% useless.I'm really glad that manufacturers of Notebooks and PCs have ignored that bullshit!
Signalex are weird, there shit is everywhere in pound stores, and surprisingly I had a good experience with their DSi and 3DS accessories, cheap but no to the point it was unusable, it did the job pretty well...
I had one of these and it killed my yzkstudio usb power meter :/ Did a teardown and found it was an even cheaper and nastier version of Clive's one. There was only the led with a resistor in series to limit its current, a 3 position switch and the resistor for the motor inside it. That resistor was all burned out and on further inspection it was dissipating far too much power when running in series with the motor. I'm not quite sure how it killed the usb meter though
Why a transistor? In this circuit it is neither a voltage regulator, nor a current regulator. It acts just as a power resistor.
lol they do have special charge USB ports on some motherboards that handle high current on some computers I use to have one till I fried it with honey milk and sugar coffee concoction also the rated current of these special high current charge ports where 1500mA per port
also, my computer has normal USB 3.0 ports and them on average put out 1 amp and my keyboard requires 1 amp to function as it has like 150 LEDs 144 8 bit RGB LEDs or is it 8 colors per led meaning 8x8x8 colors i honestly don't
know, on are on the 144 keys and an arm processor and other things like a display driver to power I think well the keyboard is a k95 corsair
Almost certainly to limit it to the proper USB current of 500mA. Handling bits of component lead isn't a bad thing at all!
I've been thinking of getting one of these for use round my pc and desk area, I've got 2 dogs and there just always seems to be hair on my mouse mat and surrounding area. Glad I watched this video, if and when i get one of these things I will not be plugging it onto my pc, so I'm guessing it wound it be safe enough to use a USB adapter plug? I don't own any usb power packs but have got a few USB adapter plugs. P.S Excellent channel.
a few years back I described this device to a guy at a pawn shop and he said that he would likely only be able to give me Eight pounds for such an item.
I have one of that exact USB vacuum cleaner, doesn't even remove light dusts on my keyboard, I tried using it directly plugged on my laptop but it sort of makes it even slower so I have to use a USB wall adapter for it, but after a week of everyday usage, the motor just gave up and the circuit board just didn't worked even when I replaced the same motor, the LED is the only thing that works from it now
That's a very strange circuit. The output current would depend on the transistor gain, so there would be a wide variation between individual transistors (fans). Like you, I wouldn't recommend plugging this into a PC.
A very challenging strip down..I have been using the exact same device to get the fluff stuck in the key board..I don't connect it to my laptop..a separate power supply I use for active speakers..additional fan cooling..led light..retaining plunger et al
ive seen this thing sold on tons of cheap chinese websites in all sorts of colors and minor variations and coming in different packaging. definitely comes from the same factory and sold by lots of different places. mine didnt even have a "boost" button.. there are minor variations between models..i think mine had tiny vent holes in the back near the slider switch. also, notice that the "hose" part is really just like a 1 inch piece of large heatshrink tubing or something. not able to run in turbo mode, mine would drop any pieces it picked up because it couldnt keep enough suction to keep the crumbs in there. only useful for very, very light crumbs, and even then its questionable..
That transistor must be pretty tough, otherwise after a short while the back emf from the motor would destroy the junction no?
It doesn't look like it'd be able to negotiate 1A from a computer's USB port. USB devices need to negotiate higher currents when they require it.
Arn't usb ports on computers rated to 0.5 amps? So surely the 1 amp from the boost function will cause the ups ports on them (at least a MacBook according to the specs) to trip out and stop being powered due to there inbuilt protection?
I wonder what nice electrostatic discharges this fine unit is capable of...? I wonder if I'd even trust it to clean keybrds...
The S8050 transistors can handle a bit of abuse. You will often find them used in the Bug Zapper Bats.
I had a USB expantion unit from Poundland I plugged it in and it started smoking and burning and yes flame too they were happy to give me me pount back
You must have got the delux version, the one I bought didn't have a button or circuit board, just the switch, the led, and the motor all wired directly.
Sometimes the simple circuits are the most baffling. But anyone who can design them consistently will always have a job.
The 330 ohm resistor and motor form a potential divider via base emitter, the transistor is used because the resister would not cope with current alone, this is a current amplifier.
they joke ay they cut off transistor use switch but forget usb slap a 12v motor in it off a dvd player or something be better then lol
You genious. I skipped to 0:53 to have a little sneak peak and listened for 5 seconds to be convinced that its an interesting episode. So i skipped back to 0:00 to watch the whole thing and then that.
Only 177 comments in Jan '22. This video did a very good job in hiding the comment button.
Taking bets now on whether the over-worked transistor or the over-powered 3V motor will die first...
That transistor makes no sense. Isn't it just working like a power resistor?
I had one, hardly any suck at all..stripped it down and used the parts for other stuff!
I suppose it might detract form the genuine 'hands on' feel of your videos Clive, but I noticed that you puzzled over how that transistor might be working. So I fired up NWC Livewire which you can get from Maplin and had constructed that circuit and simulated it in around two minutes. With a generic NPN and generic motor, I got around 350mA rising to around 600mA with the button pressed. This program is graphically, very good - especially in 'Current Flow' view. If you used a screen capture program, you could "Show the working out" like that?
Ok, ok, Eagle, or some other software will probably be better, especially for more complex stuff, but I have Livewire and actually, for simple stuff ("Does this work?"), Livewire is pretty good, once you get to know it and ways around it. Also, PCB Wizard (tightly integrated) is VERY good, especially if you upgrade to the Pro version. I don't like Maplin much, but this software is good for potching about with and the PCB Wizard software was good enough to have commercial PCBs manufactured from its Gerber output.
Interesting looking setup. I'll look into one myself.
They have the same thing (same design and package) at Dollarama in Canada. I found the thing to be shit on USB power (5 volts 500 mA) so I used 12 volts from a IDE/SATA to USB adapter power, though it'll burn out the LED in the vacuum, but at 12 volts it runs very well and sucks up a lot of dust and crud from the keyboard.
EDIT : Yup, the exact same thing I have from Dollarama, the same design, same attachements, and the same circuitry. I'm starting to think that Dollarama (Canada) and Pound Land (UK) have almost the same thing or at least the same sources for product.
+Matt Brine Out of interest: How about heat dissipation, considering it gets rather hot on 5V already?
Another example of China's finest...
Transistor looks to be connected in Emitter Follower mode...R value has probably been selected to give some reduced Base voltage (V Divider with Base junction Z)...maybe you could measure and give VBase at low speed...VMotor would be .6V less, and as you point out, poor transistor is passing all motor current in low speed mode, so is unlikely to survive long-term (install heat-sink, or indeed relocate it to into airstream!). Of course, user will probably typically use the high-speed mode as it makes Vac more effective, but even if transistor opens up, high speed will still work with "turbo" pushbutton.
PS...Always remember when using a device, to place the O-N / O-F-F switch in the O-N position...Thanks as always for great vids!
+Ronplucksstrings I still don't get it why one would use a transistor there in the first place (considering the fixed wiring). It's been ages since I've done any significant wiring, but I'd just use an actual resistor I guess - one could even use a potentiometer for more control.
it's got a switch on the top
hey Clive! thanks for the expensive new hobby/leaning endeavour! just got my first Arduino in the mail today...won an auction for a genuine uno kit from Vilros for $10 n $7 shipping.. ...n I'm currently researching my first project....a power supply. I want one that I can use for everything from circuit testing all the way through electrolysis, metal plating and etching metal....so the research is a little overwhelming...any suggestions from you or the community would be FANTASTIC! thanks again for being my brain EXCITED about something again..."cheers mate!"
If you want a power supply that can limit current then I'd recommend a cheap bench power supply from a local electronics supplier. They're very useful things.
bigclivedotcom I want one that'll do everything...that's my problem. I want high amps for watching and electrolysis and also the ability to do bench top stuff too...I kinda only wanna buy once and not three different power supplies for different stuff, ya know?
@@MyBigThing2010 I know what you mean. I've seen them in electronics labs. The full kit osciloscopes etc. Totally adjustable power source. Fantastic, but not cheap.
Jeez, it has a piece of heat shrink tubing for a hose.
Have seen these in local stores where I live. I kind of need something that's smaller than my B&D Orb-it, but didn't really like connecting a motor with an unknown current draw to a usb port.
Might buy one and mod it. Drill some holes to give the transistor some better cooling. Maybe replace some components to off-load the transistor, or just replace it with an resistor. (Replace the 330ohm resistor and put an resistor in parallel with the transistor/switch?)
I know this is an old video, but I had a couple quick thoughts I wanted to share. I know for a fact (because I've done it) that if you draw more than about 550 mA from my late 2011 model Macbook Pro, the USB port is completely shut down and you get a big warning saying that too much current was being drawn, etc. I believe they contain a self resetting polyfuse. It should be pointed out that the USB 3.0 and older protocol specifies that no device may draw more than 500 mA. Also, the use of the transistor is a fairly common one, actually. It's set up as a very crude negative voltage regulator. I've seen this done before in simple low power audio circuits that require a dual rail supply. The idea is that the base of the transistor stays one forward diode's voltage above the emitter (0.6-0.7 volts). Obviously this results in very poor regulation, and It seems strange that they would use it in a (relatively) high current application (the poor regulation leads to lots of voltage sag). I've only ever seen it used, for very low current applications where a specified but not very precise voltage drop is required. Sort of like an emitter follower with the Base tied to the positive rail.
+gizmoguyar All USB port aren't built the same. I have an old Socket 7 motherboard from around 1998-1999 that has no protection for its USB ports. If you draw more than ~650mA from its two ports it will fry (it was only intended for very low current draw devices like keyboards, mice and USB hubs or printers that are eternally powered.)
Jackpkmn Yeah, I understand that. My point was more that I wouldn't feel comfortable plugging that thing into *any* usb port on a computer. Because USB is (was) only required to supply 500 mA, I think it's unlikely that any normal USB port would ever be designed to supply more than that.
Would the cold air being sucked in not cool the whole unit?
not by very much.
I was going to say how hot the voltage regulator / transistor would get?? Strange circuit but effective
The thing held on by the "O" ring is it Dutch in origin by any chance? Should have put a warning on that this innuendo is for readers aged 45 and older
OK how to put this delicately? It resembles a contraceptive device called a "Dutch cap". Don't think they use them much now as they don't protect against STD/I's.
Clive, I know this is three years late, but....if it were a linear regulator, while the motor would run more slowly, the total current draw would have remained unchanged.
"a boost button."
Depends on your definition of boost.
being an inductive load why is there no flyback diode for the spikes into the supply?
because it's $1?
Mine was free. :P
Got one of these hooked up to my desktop, I wouldn't call it great. I also would note that it does emit the distinct smell of a burning motor even after a few minutes of use.
Glad to see this one is as shit as the one i bought
Where do you get all your datasheets for the chips and things you find on boards? Just Google?
+Toasted Networks Yes. The Internet has almost all the datasheets you could want.
I have one of these and run it off mostly a powered USB hub, it keeps my desk clean wonderfully.
Mine made a burning smell as soon as I turned it on.
use it in turbo or just omit the transistor all together.
I was screaming at the tv when you opened it haha the button was to speed up the motor and the switch on top to turn the fan on or the LED :D
Ashens + Bigclive's intro should be like this: DA NA DA NA DA NA "Bigclive!"
ive seen ashens video on this many years ago and he seemed to have lost the little brush and ive always wondered what it looked like haha
1A?? Way to kill motherboards, or at least pop some error messages when turning on. Well... These are battery-pack only, I guess.
The port just won't support the load, will shut down and throw a bunch of error codes at you.
I dunno, most motherboards can support double the power, also most of them have some software/hardware to protect against short circuits, for ex my budget ASRock motherboard either does not allow more current to pass, or in case of short circuit shuts the ports off and beeps. They are kinda smart, I've heard that even ESD at the port may trigger Windows alert telling you that something is going on, although I have not experienced it myself.
I had one of these in the exact same package years ago, was pretty good for my glass desk IMO
This thing on "high" sounds like my hairdryer. :)
it's meant to be used with will plug
Heh, I've got one of these ... never yet plugged it into a computer yet, though I might have got to the point of doing that to clean a keyboard or whatever. It's proved useful for a few other light duty, cramped space / thin crack vacuuming tasks, always plugged into a high-output mains USB phone charger plug...
Considering how it's basically a mini hairdryer that runs in reverse with a gauze over the motor intake, it's surprisingly effective and most times I've emptied it after use the innards have quite a lot of freshly-collected dirt in them. Between this and a few other handy light-duty techie things I've had from them (desktop phone charger station, memory card reader, gel phone case, so on, so forth), Poundland is developing something of a habit of providing simple doodads that actually work for the price you always suspected they should be sold for, rather than what everyone else takes you for.
The detailed engineering may be kind of bobbins, but much like a moped that sees 20 miles of use per week and eventually conks out at 25,000 miles (a figure that would seem ludicrously low for any other vehicle)... and like a quarter century... later, it doesn't really need to be any better.
my lungs can suck harder than the "vacuum" this thing produces
The vacuum has a switch on the top of it
8050 and 8550 are in everything aha
you needed to switch the switch on the top I also got one of those and its great
Haha I've ha a few of these over the years...
For use in a computer I wouldn't worry. "Errors" really aren't gonna happen and/or do nothing. Your only concern comes when most USB type A connectors only put out 500ma on a computer.
+AmperaYT Considering it's no "smart device" (i.e. no real circuitry talking to the computer), I could imagine this indeed screwing with at least other USB devices on the same hub. Never tried what happens if a dumb device tries to pull more than 500mA on USB 2.
+Smaxx If you have a poorly made hub that supplies power off one big ass rail without any current limiting for each socket, then you may take more power then the hub can handle.
For as far as I know computers are built differently. Each USB socket can ONLY give 500ma EVER.
Your not gonna pull more then that and your not pulling power from other sockets. The cleaner will work,
just not as powerful and not as well.
+AmperaYT Yeah, always "according to specs". :D Makes me wonder of what crazy stuff might happen in a PC completely built from cheap Chinese eBay parts, once you connect cheap Chinese USB accessories.
+Smaxx The appropriate Big Clive quote is "Let's turn it on and see if it'll go bang."
Yes, it sucks.
Very common on eBay
what are those screwdrivers
when i hear poundland i think porn lol:)
+Mike Schmidt You mean Review Porn? Tat Porn? :D Rated 18+ so kids don't buy and repeat things they saw?
one amp? that's twice the current that you should put on your usb.
+dwarf365 If you're using USB 2.0*? I'm pretty sure most tablets and phones need 1amp to charge nowadays :P
+DanJBMedia Those devices charging over USB actually **communicate** with the USB host/hub. If they detect it as a standard USB port, they won't take more than 500mA (typically called "slow charging").
Smaxx That makes sense. :D Don't Android phones also test the current to see how much it can draw from the charger? (I've also heard that Apple devices do not do that, and try to draw the full amount it needs. xD I could be completely wrong and insane, which is always a possibility)
***** Pretty much all USB devices should do that properly (if they're capable of taking higher currents). But I've read about some instances where USB type C cables had wrong/non-complying wiring, screwing up hubs that have simplified or no safeguards.
How do those cold to the touch soldiering iron work? I had seen them advertised on TV.
Magnets
+viperz888 Induction?
PongoXBongo no, magnets.
viperz888 Exactly. Electromagnetic induction, like a cook-top The magnets only heat metal, not fingers.
+PongoXBongo No. This is the last time I'll tell you. Not electromagnets. Not induction. Just magnets.
It is jank
666 likes D:
It sucks or not
lol I am asking myself the same. After all that he could at least showed how it is working lol
Please stop saying 'button' in you're videos. Its a Push to make/break momentary 'Switch'. A button can be any number of things.
Thanks :)
Shut up you sad little thing!
Don't care
Ame Nightcore It's a f*cking button, get over it.
Your*
I am not in any way sad, I don't need to get over anything. I am the one who is being correct here and everyone else is ignorant. I did a electrical course for 3 years and this is how I was told to say it... because its correct. A button can be mechanical, on a screen, something to keep your shirt on. This is not a button, this is a push to make switch. I will not be quiet because I am correcting the human race for being fucking stupid and using the wrong words.
FYI this is a tare-down of an electronic product.... so its only right to use correct electronic terminology.
The button is a turbo, try the switch.
2:14 "Oh! There's a little switch..."
I _hate it_ when I do that! 🤪