How to Sweep your Chimney - The Easy Way
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2020
- An easy way to sweep a wood stove chimney. This same process applies to many of the the stoves you may encounter. Always remember to do an annual or even bi-annual inspection of your chimney and stove pipe connections, both inside and outside. Keep things clean, burn properly seasoned fire wood and enjoy the best heat there is!!! Thanks for watching. If you find this video helpful please consider subscribing to this channel and give this video of thumbs up!
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Brush Kit - www.amazon.com/Chimney-Cleani...
CSIA - www.csia.org/
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Always rotate the rods clockwise as you feed them up and down to ensure that the threads do not unscrew and leave the brush stuck in the pipe.
This is excellent advice. 👆🏼👍🏼
Go counterclockwise though, otherwise they will unscrew.
They are reverse threaded?
This would work ONLY with round brushes, NOT with rectangular brushes.
Buy the Morinoli that snaps with push pins together then cow or cow makes no difference
Edit of course running CCW you risk loosening your drill chuck. I thought about that when u went up to do our chimney. I’d give my Morinoli 4 stars as a tool best used by the homeowner after you hire a pro to get that stuff off. Ours looked like drizzled ceramic So I can maintain it with this after I pay the pro to scrape or whatever they do.
Thank you! My husband has recently passed away. We own our home and run solely on wood heat from our wood stoves. All winter. It snows where we live. So we use it fairly often. My husband always kept up with all of this stuff. Now it’s up to me. this video really helped me. I’ve been stressing about the safety and cleaning of our stoves. And having no idea how I’m going to keep up with everything is overwhelming. I just want to keep my family and house as safe as possible. So thank you again 😊
I hear you Ashley - I'm in the same predicament only at age 73 yrs and hip and back issues.
My goodness, so glad you ladies are getting the help you need. Good on you for researching and doing it right! Stay safe!
Not getting on the roof! (I'm 74.) Are you the only person in the world who knows how to clean a flue from the inside? Glad I found you! Thanks!
I am so glad you get to the point and not silly ...very nice job thank you
It helped me to understand when, and why I have to clean it... Not me, but professionals, and yet I know now if they do it properly... So thank you!
I bought a set of those rods with the brush, go in from the stove by removing the fire bricks so I have a clear shot up the straight stovepipe.This worked great, i am 76 years old now and a little shaky climbing up on the roof these days. Brushed the pipe clean and then cleaned up the mess with my shop vack.
Thank you for the thorough explanation. We recently came into possession of an Arrow Stove Heater and this is our first time learning about what it takes to keep it happy and safe. Much appreciate it!
The organisation is like we have in the UK..NACS. National Association of Chimney Sweeps. Coal, wood, oil, wood chip boiler stoves, fed by conveyor belt, wood burning stoves and open fires. In Scotland, I swept castles, mansions, apartments, houses and cottages and everything in between..sweeping, chimney and chimney stack repairs, stoves etc. Now retired..my son now runs the business..I moved overseas.. sunshine.
Brilliant upload, well worth watching, thank you for posting !
Thanks to you, I just cleaned my first ever chimney 😅👍
Good advice.
I would never want to get a brush stuck in a chimney but I wouldn’t mind watching a video showing a brush stuck in a chimney.
I’m going to search for a video on that
Thanks for the video! Very well done.
Great video. Will be cleaning mine out for the first time at my camp. Great information.
Pierce, Idaho!!!
Thanks for the cleaning video.
Thanks for doing this video it'll definately help me, I didn't know they sold plastic chimney brushes great information thanks!
Thank you. Very informative and easy to follow. This is my first year with a wood burning stove, so here goes.
This is super helpful. Thank you for posting this!
What I used to do as a pro..was to visit stores selling stoves and got a salesman to let me check them out just in case new designs came out. That way..when you go to a job..you have the knowledge..of any new design..you also look what you are..a pro. I have condemned a few in my time. Only had one disgruntled client when I condemned his stove. I had to get the fire brigade out to check my decision..they confirmed it. He had fitted the stove himself. Always use a pro..
Thanks for the video buddy. Just installed a Osburn 1700.
Great video, thank you soo much! Even though I'm not going from the bottom up, you gave tons of fabulous tips
Thanks for watching!🙌🏻
Best video on cleaning a wood stove! I started having smoke blow back out (of an already warm stove), and a decrease in draw, almost overnight. Was working perfectly yesterday. 🤔 I’ve used the stove about 250-350 nights total before moving to Montana a couple months ago, so I’m thinking it has to be time. I’ll get through tonight, then head into town in the morning for some cleaning supplies! Thanks!
Sometimes shoulder seasons ( like now and early spring) when ambient temperature outside is close to the same as inside, it can cause the issue you described. It could also be your chimney cap is clogged up and not letting the stove breathe. Good luck!👍🏼 and thanks for watching.
Excellent video
Thanks for this. I felt that this was doable (had seen tools like this) but good to see it works
thank you. great video
Hi and thanks so much for the video. I'm going to give this a try the next time up at my cabin. I too also have a straight pipe up with no 90s. The one thing I would do different is run the brush up more than one time. maybe even 3 times. But all in all a great video. Thanks again!
Yes...I had very dry, and very little kreosote. Not a bad idea to make several passes up and down the chimney if you have lots of build up. It’s also recommended to verify the cleaning by looking down the chimney if possible. I burned very seasoned wood and have hot fires so I don’t get very much build up. Each chimney, stove and or the wood being burnt can’t create different kinds of build up. Good luck, and thanks for watching.👍🏼
Seems relatively easy. I will have a go at mine and hopefully won’t completely cock it up ! Happy new year from the UK
Thanks for doing this. I have a similar wood stove, except instead of bricks as a baffle, I have a large ceramic plate with a baffle blanket above it. I removed it and several bricks on the side, then used a small wire brush to clean any creosote off of the interior of the wood stove. I have a similar 4” brush which didn’t do as well as yours. I’m going to get the 6” as well as replace the baffle blanket and several cracked bricks when I do it next year.
I’ve been on a 2 year waiting list for my local chimney sweep. Enough is enough. I’ll just do it myself. SMH
The cause of creosote is wet wood. The blonde appearance of your wood seems to indicate that it is not seasoned. And nylon brushes only clean out soot and ash- very little creosote is likely to come off unless you use a metal brush.
If pushing it up and pulling it down like that is all it takes, my chimney must be pristine. You have to run the brush back and forth half a dozen times with each section of rod you add as you go up and the same on the way down as you're taking sections off.
Creosote is like tar. It accumulates on the chimney wall as the smoke rises and cools. Your brush doesn't take off creosote unless there is ash underneath it. Moist wood and a smouldering fire makes more creosote than dried wood and a roaring fire. The amount of creosote you will have depends on how you operate your stove and your wood.
If you can see a shiney layer of what looks like tar or thick black paint, that's creosote, and you're ready for a chimney fire. When the creosote burns it leaves behind the ash you're brushing away.
When the creosote layer burns, it will leave ash on the chimney liner and a new layer of creosote will begin to form on the ash. Eventually, as ash accumulates, an 8" chimney liner becomes 6". If the creosote layer gets thick enough before it catches fire, you'll have a heck of a fire and your chimney can go from 8" to 6" all at once.
The key to avoiding disastrous chimney fires is to have a hot fire each day that burns the creosote. This forms the ash that should be cleaned as necessary, yearly or more frequently, depending on how much and the type of wood you burn.
The vacuum is great, but you're sucking up ash, not creosote. The ash is from burned creosote and deposited ash from the firebox that is carried up by the chimney draft.
Every woodstove and chimney system is different. The key is to learn how to operate yours with the type of wood you have available.
This is great information folks and very true.👆🏼
Great video. Our Drolet has a vermiculite? Panel up there, been wondering how to clean it from the inside and you explained it well.
Thank you.
Thanks 🙏 😊
I'm just putting a similar unit in my house! Perfect timing man! A video about how to pass an installation inspection would be sweet lol. I need a heat sheild like yours too! Thanks for the video! It's simple stuff till you have your own stove and you realize you know nothing! Lol. (and by 'you' I mean ME!)
Typically you will want to resort to your local city or county code as it pertains to wood stove installations. More often than not those people are referring to the stove manufactures recommendations. If it’s a used stove you can usually look on the back of it for the metal identification plate and it will usually tell you the clearances required for installation of both the stove and the connector pipe. If it’s a new stove, the installation manual will be your friend and tell you everything. You may be able to find a manual online if you can identify the model and manufacturer.
Bro...I didn’t realize who this was until I went to your page and started watching your videos and said.....wait a minute I know that guy!!! Hit me up if you need help with that stove, I’d be happy to help you.!💪🏼
@@UpState208 the problem is finding the local city or county codes.. I bet they're available somewhere but idk where 🤔 I've been following the WETT guidelines but the heat sheild and clearance reduction varies and the manual just says it varies by local ordinance lol
@@UpState208 also, we sure should do a video collaboration!! I do my stuff in upstate 208 so it fits!! And if you've seen my videos, you know how shat my video production skills are! Lol. Your videos are top notch im jeally! Thanks main!
Totally down for some collaboration. My number is easy to track down. Hit me up and let’s chat.
Also, heat shields can be confusing when it comes to codes and spacing. I always look at installation manual. They typically have all the info you could need in regards to that stuff
Did reverse. Used electric drill and fed from the top. Used a dryer kit clean out kit and attached vacuum plug and shop vac at the bottom.
Tip: never reverse drill
Place diesel soaked firewood in the firebox, open the door and set the creosote alight. Works every time.
BETTER CHECK THE CLEARANCE ON THE STOVE BEHIND YA
Thanks alot for this video. Just got a stove installed and my roof has a steep pitch, so I'm not able to reach the top of the pipe.
Can you make a video on how to clean a wood burning fireplace flue. What size brush would I need?
What about glazed creosote built up on the inside of the flue? Ive been told only the hard steel brushes take care of that. How might steel brushes damage pipes? For reference i have fiber glass insulated pipes.
As for that coal like creasote, it makes for wonderfull starter.
I think its easier to disconnect the slip pipe and the pipe all the way to the ceiling. You can vacuum the baffle from the top of the stove. I actually took a low profile plastic tub and put two holes in the bottom of it. Use it to run your brush through the center and a side hole for your vacuum hose. Have someone hold it up against the ceiling. Turn vacuum on and brush.
Thanks for the chimney cleaning tips. We have a 2007 Quad-Fire that looks just like yours but has a baffle board and a ceramic blanket above the tube channels instead of the firebricks that you have on your unit. Where did you get your 6" dryer vent brush kit from? You video suggest checking the "Link in Description" but I could not find where the link is. All I could find on Amazon was 4" dryer vent brush sets. Thanks so much.
@Dennis Labinski- Yes, mine is an older model before they went to the baffle board and blanket. Same principals apply, however I will say it’s tuff to get the blanket back in there on those models without removing the stove pipe so you can reach thru the flu collar and put it back in place. I will check my link but I bought my kit on amazon. It came with a 4” and 6” brush and I believe 20’ of rods.
I have a couple questions. 1. Why does it matter that the fire bricks go back the way they came out. 2. Does burning a fire at high temps (500+), a couple times a week, help get rid of the debris collected in the chimney?
Mine matters because they won't fit any other way
I'm interested in information about a damper and chimney temperature gauge. I have a Pacific Energy from 1999 and am wondering if I need the gauge and damper. This is in a cottage and I burn only a bit in the fall and spring or for a weekend if I go up in the winter.
Welp, this video showed me I'd better call a professional. The ceiling of my firebox looks pretty complicated compaired to yours. I see fire bricks in front of the baffle board and then I have a baffle blanket (according to the manual) in my Avalon Pendelton. I looks a bit like a step pyramid is jammed up in there.
So do not use a drill? I have a Waterford Trinity but previous owner didn't put in a damper. I live in the Rockies of Colorado and only have access to Spruce, Pine, Fir and some Aspen so I probably have decent amount of buildup. I have double wall pipe but should i have a damper? Thanks!
Hi, my quarter inch baffle plane keeps warping so i bent it flat again. Is it safe to weld another quarter inch steel plate on top or bottom to reinforce it? and should it be on top or bottom? thanks
very clear steps, thank you. My question is how can I use the same method for a flue that is not going up straight 🤔 My flue has 2 corners.
With flexible rods you may be able to navigate those bends. Sometimes it requires twisting the rods as you are going through those angles in the pipe. Use caution as your brush can sometimes get stuck in there. If that happens, try to use the twisting method while pulling back down on your brush/rods to free them up.
@@UpState208 thanks
I installed a pacific energy wood burning insert (with a baffle in the top) and I installed a chimney liner as well. It was working great for about 4 weeks...then this strange thing started. Even with the air intake set to H (biggest air flow) and an exterior door open, after I get a fire going...when I close the door, the first immediately goes out like it isn't getting any air at all. The baffle is seated correctly, and it's fairly new. The ash had built up...but I cleaned it out. Every time I close the door...even with air flow set to High....the fire dies. I open the door to give it air and smoke billows into the room. ALSO...there is STILL smoke coming out the chimney outside, too. I looked down the chimney...and it's really not clogged. I also took the plate off the front bottom of the stove for inside air intake....but the problem persists. And is started suddenly....what else can I possibly do? Thanks for any help you can give me.
The only thing I can say is that if it was drawing fine, and now it’s not. Something is clogged. Is your chimney cap clear. Do you have a screen on your cap. Those are troublesome and a common issue with drafting problems.
pay a local professional instead of watching penny pinching DIY vids? Asking for advice in monkey land , pay peanuts then get exactly what you pay for
I have a PE also. I had smoke coming back through the joints and could barely seek inside the house. The pipe near the top was clogged except for about 1" diameter hole in the middle. If you move the baffle when putting wood in it may dislodge the area for the secondary air feed. It is a rectangular hole in the back. I removed my baffle and it is not easy to know exactly where it should go back in because there aren't any stops to locate it. I'm getting blow back again now about 4 years later and will take my chimney apart to see why. I suspect lots of creosote because I was burning all of small green twigs from a beech, 2 maples and an ash. Live and learn.
Just subscribed. Great video. I’m looking to buy a wood stove for my 1200 sq ft brick home. Should I shoot for a 1800 sq ft model or 1200? I seen the 1200 models are more for 2 rooms.
@dgmickley - I would say to consider the physical size of the stove and where you are going to install it. Are there limitations of that space that will be accommodate a smaller stove better? Also, how do you plan to use the stove(several cords a year and burning it like crazy, or periodic burning when it’s really cold of for ambiance.)? Just a few things to consider when choosing a size. Brick homes have a lot of thermal mass, so remember that the stove will take the edge off when it’s cold, but if your trying to warm up a cold brick house it’s gonna take awhile to warm up all that mass. On the flip side, once you get those bricks warm, they will hold the heat well. Let er burn🔥. Thanks for watching
Bro, thanks for the tips,
If I can suggest something-
you had the brush all the way in the chimney, why not brushing back and forth between each time you removed one of the sticks, so it’ll scrub more creosote from the walls?
That is a good observation my friend. My creosote was very dry and fluffy, all it really needed was a brush through it one time to get it off the walls. Had it been sticky, or caked on the walls I would have had to be more aggressive. The type of wood you burn, whether it’s seasoned properly and how you operate the stove will drastically change how the creosote formation takes place. The bottom line…you want to get that stuff outta there. 😁 Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this video. I noticed that you didn't use a drill in the video. Given your experience, is it ok use a drill to spin the brush or is it better to just move it up and down by hand?
I would feel fine using a drill in this same application. I chose not too, simply because it’s easier and I knew that my creosote was dry and flaky and did not require aggressive brushing to remove it.
Depending on the length of your chimney I would find it kind of hard for a drill to spin a rod several feet. I like using my hands so I can feel whats going on
Excellent point in your video about the baffle...These are super fragile and easily destroyed if you don't really know what you're doing. (Read, understand and follow ALL of the instructions that came with your wood stove or other heating device)...Failure to do so could result in burning down your house and killing your family...Bottom line is, Know what you're doing
Sup Drew! Your video played after one of mine, saw your interests, sub'd! You seem rad.
Thanks man!!🙌🏻 checked out your channel as well and sub’s! Keep up the good work my man.
Questions. where do you get those bendable rods and two, where can I find (buy) the sealing cord. Ours is old and needs replacing. Need answer ASAP. Thank you
There is a link in the description of the video for the rod’s and brush. The seal for the door can be found perhaps at Ace, Home Depot, or a wood stove shop. Make sure the rope seal you get is the same size and style of the one you are replacing. You will also need some hi-temp silicone or furnace cement to get the seal to stick in place. Good luck.👌🏼
Sorry to comment on an old post but why couldnt you put a tee at the bottom of the stove pipe? I'm in the design stage for mine and i was thinking how convenient it would be to place a damper then a tee above that then I'll have a straight up run of about 12 feet to roof then about 10 feet up out of roof. If you had a tee you could easily open it and run your brush and flex poles up from there? Then just hand clean the small section below the tee? Would that work or no?
Putting a tee and damper on your stove pipe can be dangerous in the event you have a chimney fire(there’s no way to suffocate the fire). It would make cleaning the chimney easy, but I wouldn’t recommend doing that. Also, the stove I have is designed to not be operated with a damper. I hear what you’re saying, but be careful my friend.
Hi thank you for sharing ..im curious can this cleaning be done with a fire place insert wood stove ? I mean I'd think so..
Wood stove inserts can be tricky. It just depends on how it was installed. Be cautious if sweeping an insert and make sure to verify that it has a direct connection liner. It’s is very important to verify that you are able to contain any creosote being swept out of the chimney, and that it isn’t depositing on top of the stove or behind it. If possible you should remove the trim pieces of the insert to verify what’s going on with the connection to the existing chimney and that there isn’t debri or creosote caked around the unit. Careful with these ones.☺️
@@UpState208 Thank You for ur fast response .. altho I'm pretty fierce handy gurl 🔨 I think I'll leave this to the pros !
Oh, and one more question. Where can I find the nylon brush, I’ve only seen the metal ones in stores.
The link in the video description will get you to the brush and the rods. Make sure that your chimney is a 6” chimney though or that brush won’t work for you.
We have a brand new home and have only had about 20 fires in the fireplace and have only used oak wood. How do I know if it needs to be cleaned. I was going to use a creosote log this season and then have a professional clean after the season. I do appreciate your input, stay blessed
Creosote logs in my experience are a gimmick. Nothing can sweep your chimney other than a brush. If you can get on your roof and remove the chimney cap and then visually inspect what the flue looks like that will tell you a lot about what perhaps the rest of the chimney you can’t see may look like. If you are burning hot fires with good seasoned wood it can significantly reduce your creosote build up.👍🏼
Don't forget to clean the mesh on the cap at the top...thar often gets clogged and diminishes the draft.
That is a great point. My cap does not have mesh, but many do. That is a prime spot for the flue to get clogged up and start creating poor draft resulting in the stove burping smoke back into the room.
@@UpState208 you should get a cap with mesh. Birds love 6" pipe for nest building.
There is batting on top of the baffle plate bricks. If I remove it gently I should be able to put it back? There is not a lot of clearance so I am concerned I might not get it back in as smoothly as it was in there before. Any suggestions?
Sometimes it is difficult to remove that insulation and then put it back without removing the stove pipe. Whatever you do, ensure that the insulation blanket is laying flat on top of the bricks so it doesn’t interfere with air flow. Good luck
Does the same basic process of cleaning work for an insert fireplace unit. I'm 71 and don't want to get on the roof either. I presume I can simply clean from the bottom up the same way? And does one pass of the brush sufficiently clean the stove pipe chimney? Thanks for your video.
Inserts can be tricky. Does it have a direct connected flue liner that connects to the insert and runs all the way to the top of the existing chimney? If it doesn’t I would be very careful and realistically would recommend a certified chimney sweep come inspect your system and take care of it for you.
what you do with that paddle i see
Hey I have a prefabricated chimney ( California ) besides the main pipe. There is another pipe I should clean? Or know about? Sorry I don't have any idea about Chimeny.
@Lala MDeppegg - you should only have one pipe, but without seeing your fireplace it’s hard to tell exactly what you may be working with. The CSIA (chimney safety Institute of America) has a great website that you can utilize to get more info. Also, if you get in over your head they have a list of the certified Chimney Sweeps in your area that could help you.
Install a piece of telescoping stove pipe. Then you can remove easily and dont have to go through the actual stove.
I have a question, my chimney has a sort or lever underneath beneath the glass door, for air I assume (not sure i just boughtthe home. Do I have to worry about cleaning that part out?
Sounds like your air control for the stove. I doubt you can access anything in there to clean.
@@UpState208 thank you for your response, I just ordered my cleaning device, similar to yours and I'm waiting for it to arrive! Supper excited.
One more question regarding creosote, is it truly necessary if I'm already cleaning it out with the chimney sweep tool? 🤔
My Quadra Fire ( looks exactly like yours ) has a baffle blanket. Can I replace the blanket with bricks? The blanket tends to build up with very fine dense ash. I think the bricks will get hotter and burn off the ash better.
I would think Quadrafire’s answer would be “consult your manual”. I have seen them with only bricks, and I have seen them with only blankets, it depends on the model. The basic principal is insulating the firebox to keep the heat in the stove and to help with efficiency and secondary combustion. You may actually lose some efficiency with bricks vs blanket, and it could be a spacing concern between the baffle plate and the top of the stove. Quadrafire will tell you to do whatever their manual says to do. 🤷🏼♂️
@@UpState208 Thank you for the info. I'll search for my owners manual.
What are the rods called on Amazon? Do you have a link
Link in the description of the video will take you right to the rods and brush kit.👍🏼
Would those rods bend through two 45 degree angle pieces? Thats what I have on mine, one taking it out through the wall and then the other taking it into the main past of the flu
@fostex fan - I believe they would go through two 45 deg. Elbows. However, I will say that going through is usually not where the brush gets stuck, it’s when you are coming back from up or down(depending on whether you are sweeping from top or bottom). Also, having a somewhat flexible(soft) brush would help with this. If you do get stuck in those 45’s try rotating the brush as you pull on it and this will often times allow it to slide past whatever it is getting hung up on. 45’s are a good place for creosote to hang out so try to verify those angles are getting cleaned well. Good luck.
@@UpState208 Thanks for the advice. Mayby an alternative to that is sending her indoors up the ladder to unscrew the brush from the chimney cowling leaving me free to withdraw and unscrew the rods from the stove. Multi tasking solved :-)
As a single female that was very informative for me. Thank you for mentioning about laying out fire brick the way you take them out. Would not of thought of that.
😂😂😂😂What does you being a single female have to do with ANYTHING?😂😂😂😂
@@squirrelcovers6340 Some of the retired men in my subdivision have old school thinking. I’m slowly changing their way of thinking especially when I asked if anyone could lend me a basin wrench to change my bathroom taps. 😂😂
@@sharonstahls8781 Good luck on changing their way of thinking. Waste of time in my experience. I spent a lifetime doing that fruitless work. I know the look of shock when they encounter you on the construction site as part of the team, or the expression of surprise when you ask for the right tool by name or when they repeatedly see you coming and going from the hardware or auto parts store. It doesn't matter if you can rebuild your carburetor, replace your transmission, fix most things on your house, chop your own wood and have a college education. In fact, their contempt drives them to find new ways to "put you back into your place" either to your face or behind your back, but always in the most underhanded ways. They need to see females as less capable to prop up their fragile egos. It has little to do with women or reality. I wish I'd spent less time trying to change their opinions or gain their respect and more time not giving a flying monkey's ass what they thought. But, if it's your thing, I understand and I wish you luck. Just know, the best complement will ever get will be "not bad, for a girl." Which is a way to insult all women.
How does the brush get past the dampener in the bottom section?
no damper
My chimney was cleaned in the fall, prior to having any fires this winter. However, I had a chimney fire last night, grateful the house didn't burn down, but wondering WTH? I burn some pine but otherwise red and white fir with some other miscellaneous species. I'm sort of boggled why it caught fire. I burn in it all day, everyday and have had no issues. Worried I'll need to get up there to clean the chimney again with snow on the roof. (Unable to clean from inside as it's an older style with the shelf above damper). Any ideas why the flames?
If you’ve had a chimney fire you need to look inside that chimney and verify it hasn’t been damaged, probably worth having a pro with a camera come scope it and see if everything is ok. If you burn all day, everyday at a low burn rate where the stove is starved for air, you could build that thing up with creosote quickly. How and what you burn can have a dramatic impact on creosote build up. Be careful, chimney fires make me concerned about the systems safety afterwards.
@@UpState208 copy that! It didn't flame long before I was able to shut it down...there are a few details I think leading up to it. That my damper was stuck in place for a couple days so it burned slow and likely not hot enough to burn out the creosote. But I got it loose and for only one day had fire going then that night it flamed out top. Unfortunately I really can't get anyone out to where I live to handle things. Had a guy out of Spokane but he kept flaking so I was able to get chimney cleaned (diy) prior to this seasons burning although wondering what really led up to the flames out top....few obstacles to check chimney as well due to height of it off roof, pitch of roof and now snow and ice. I have stove pulled out of its hole and will be cleaning chimney bottom up due to obstacles of getting on roof right now, so thanks for your video on that! This wasn't an issue last season and I burned lots of pine! But I also didn't have a damper...just trying to configure the issues.
What does that box on the ceiling do? Collect ash?
We have a box like that and it was installed to keep clearance/buffer between the pipe and our structure (ceiling, attic).
My stove isnt like that, I have a baffle also you were able to get your arm inside to direct it I cant. I am going to remove my flue from the inside and hang a plastic bag over the top and let it fall in a bag
I've had a stove for three years. This year we've upgraded our fuel to burn nicer wood and smokeless coal. But there's now loads of ash from the flue all over the garden and windows all the time. I don't understand why the better fuel is causing this. Unless it's coincidence. Google isn't helping. Had chimney thoroughly swept and serviced stove but still getting black ashes all over the driveway and car. Any suggestions?
Did you make any headway on finding a solution to this problem? Could be the type of wood you are burning, could be the coal. Could be a lot of things unfortunately. Hope you find a solution.
i have a 4" chimney for my wood stove, but i feel my damper will prevent me from cleaning my chimney myself? How do i get by damper?
Should be able to open the damper and slip the brush right past it. I have never seen a 4” wood stove pipe.
4" stove pipe is probably from a pellet stove that is fan forced.
Do you recommend flue cleaner stuff that you burn with wood
I’ve never been a big fan of those things. In all
honesty, I don’t know much about it. I think it’s hard to substitute anything for a good old fashion sweep of the chimney.
@@UpState208 I see. I get mixed answers. Sure chimneys must be physically cleaned. But some say it drops creosote. I have a very stupid situation. I feel like going crazy about it. I live in luxury gated community development. But the craftsmanship is so poor, they made every single chimney to open to each other at the level of the cement flooring. So we can't close it. But we can see it. So i had to run a long stainless steel flue but i couldn't put an elbow yet. And I took a picture of the flue after burning wood for 10 days, and it looks like it's peeling off. 😣😖 I'm going nuts. We don't have those specialists here our stoves suck too.
what if you have a damper in the way???to push the brush up there
maybe use a different brush
A damper could complicate things depending on what type of damper it is. I’ve been able to slip past the damper before while it’s in the fully open position, but you would want to take special attention to making sure you don’t get hung up on it, or get creosote caked around it may not allow it function properly.
do them \chimney sweeping logs work
I’ve never seen one remove creosote from the chimney walls. It may soften it, or burn off some of the existing soot, but they are not a replacement for regular sweeping of the chimney.
So it's not necessary to clean the bricks?
I don’t personally worry about cleaning the bricks.
My pipe goes up and then I think it's a 90 degree curve it's on a lower level and we couldn't go straight up, will your system you used bend through the curve piece of pipe?
The brush setup I use would go through a single 90 degree elbow, but it would most likely fail to go through a second 90 degree elbow where your stack returns to vertical. Always a good idea to take the 90’s apart and confirm that they are clean as that is a prime spot for things to get choked up. If you can sweep through your 90 to a tee outside that has a removable end cap that may be a way to handle that.
Sorry about this but I have to take issue with your advice, like you I am no longer working as a sweep but have considerable experience and training . My main point is that of polymer brushes and creosote, creosote can be found in various conditions depending on the stove it's flue the location of the flue in relation to the roof and surrounding buildings or trees, the type of cap you have on the flue the flue material and construction, the quality of your fuel and the way the stove is operated. Polymer brushes will not deal with slick hard caked creosote at all, in fact they will only deal with dusty dry creosote that has been burnt dry, and will leave behind deposits of hardened creosote ,over a number of years this can build up resulting in a chimney fire. Further more most baffle plates are designed to be pulled forward so as to allow easy brush entry from the fire box and allow the swept deposits to fall straight down into the aforementioned fire box.[top exit stoves only] rear exit stoves require a modified technique. Chimney caps should be cleaned properly, preferably removed before sweeping the flue, this also reduces the chance of damage to the cap and dislodging sectional flue systems.Prior to cap replacement a good light should be shone down the flue to aid visual inspection. I used to have brushes made for me by various companies to my own specification to fit various flue sizes the bristles being made from an assortment of materials from flat spring steel and brass to softer natural bristles and polymers.
I don’t disagree with anything you just wrote. Much more detail than I offered in the video, and definitely something to take note of if anyone is cleaning their system without any knowledge. I would always recommend having a certified professional check your system over if you have any doubts. Thanks for watching and for adding some good pointers for anyone to consider.
Does dust still come out of the vacuum or ash? Is a wet vac with the filter enough or Would it be better to run an exhaust tube from the vacuum out a window?
Unless you have a really good vacuum with a HEPA filter system it will probably still come through the filter. Running the exhaust outside is a good idea if you are able to do that. If this was in my home I would be more worried about it, but this is a shop so a little dust wasn’t concerning to me.
@@UpState208 yeah, I don’t remember cleaning a chimney twice and I didn’t do it myself, the people who did it came in and put a big trash bag inside the stove and then went up on the roof to sweep it and the trash bag was taped and sealed off so nothing would get out of the stove but the last time it still made a mess. Lol
Just use a shop vac or your central vac. Easy pezy
Good job. Dont you put rods on a cordless drill too.
I’ve done that before yes, but mostly on dryer vents. I’m sure it would help just be careful that you aren’t unscrewing your rod connectors with the still and the come apart while in the chimney, you would have yourself in a pickle if that happened.☺️
What about the damper
No damper on my system.
I think your giving some good info, but not enough....any professional will verify either with a camera or visually that the flue is clear of any obstructions or soot BEFORE lighting a fire...and i have to stress that just cleaning the chimney doesnt make it safe------that is giving a false sense of security-----over 90% of installations that i inspect fail due to clearances and conditions which most are unknown to the homeowner. its a good idea to recommend proper inspection and cleaning by an experienced and certified sweep is the way to go
I agree. If someone isn’t 100% sure of what they are doing or the potential hazards involved it’s always best to call a professional to take care of it.
I've been burning wood for over 40 years,your way has got to be the hardest way possible to clean the pipe,and dirt est way also.My rods are 5ft in length,twice the diameter,and my brush is much bigger in size also.I clean my pipe every 2-3 months,because I burn 24-7,8 months of the year.My god,son did you just learn about cleaning the pipe?????Your way might work but there is a much easier way.Come on.
Love it!! Make a video, share your wisdom with the world my friend.🙌🏻
no way to access with modern baffles welded in
Newer stove may require you to remove the stove pipe. Sometimes there is just no way around it, unfortunately.
Can’t u just burn the creosote away?
That is sometimes possible, but also risky for starting a chimney fire. I would error on the side of caution when it comes to wood stoves.
Top down is the professional way to clean duct work ...... duh
I wouldn’t refer to a chimney as duct work. The title of the video is “clean your chimney the easy way” not clean your chimney the professional way.🤣 making sure that it is free of creosote and that your system is in good working order are always the priority.
You didn't clean the glass
😄
🤣🤣. Must have forgot to show that. Cleaning the glass is important.👌🏼🪵
THAT is not a clean chimney😂😂😂😂 A too small, too soft brush.
Not always required to have a stiff bristle brush. I burn seasoned dry wood in hot fires, I don’t have tacky, or crusted creosote on my chimney walls. However, that is not always the case depending on many factors from stove, wood and how the operator uses the stove. If you do have crusted or tacky creosote in your chimney walls, this brush will not do what you need it too.
you would be better off putting the rods into a cordless drill 1 at a time and spin it then add a rod going up and down whilst spinning.