Once again this is the best idea I have seen on RUclips. I built this bar and the shelves and it turned out AWESOME ‼️ Everyone thinks that I purchased it. Can't thank you enough for this video. All the props to you.
Thanks Charles B that is the best comment of the year👍🏻 that’s exactly why we do these videos. You should be super proud of yourself If they said it looks like you bought it that means you did a really awesome job. Again We are so happy you picked our video to build your bar enjoy it for years and years and years. Thanks for the support on the channel 😎👍🏻🔨
Thank you very very much. That was awesome comment thank you for that. We recently did another bar it’s mobile on casters if you want to check it out it’s in our recent uploads there are two recent bar videos one with just music and time lapse and one with narration. Thanks for watching
I could tell you weren't playing around when I saw the sweat band, but was really convinced you are a sweet builder when you said you'll test the strength but standing on it and then actually did it, that's great
Great question. We used concrete plug anchors with a steel angle clip to lock it to the concrete. You can use any anchor that is for concrete. Just keep in mind if you’re going through a 2 x 4 then you’ll need an anchor that is a minimum 2 1/2 inches. If it’s just an angle clip then you can use the concrete plug anchors. Hope that makes sense to you, you got this👍
That room is beautiful! Only thing missing is a smart TV, wall mount speakers, I can go much further into detail, but I'll let you stick with your agenda. I think you just gave me an idea for customizing a man cave to my own standards. Just have to learn more about these types of trades & apply myself. Thank you so much for the lesson & I'll look forward to more of your videos in the future.
Yes, we were using two by fours. If you referring to the frame of the bar you can really make it whatever size you’d like but if you use this style of putting the bar together will make it easy for you. We have another bar video on this channel how to build a bar for your business or home. Be sure to check it out. Hopefully that video will answer your questions if not, let us know.
What you build is exactly what i need, so those dimensions can really help me, maybe the 2x4s height then length x width x depth. By depth i mean the distance from back wall to the front of the frame. Once i have rough idea of the dimensions,i can start building immediately.Thanks in advance.
I am WAY late on this video but MAN!!! I can SO DO THIS! I'm moving into my first home in a few weeks and am looking to add a bar. I can't afford a contractor to do the work so I am on my own. Your design is simple enough for me to follow and alter in size a bit. Awesome job!
Thanks ,No plans I built it freestyle, but you can see the process and how I do it. We have another bar video it is built the same way as this bar but freestanding and movable. Check out that vid as well should help you figure out my design it is pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely‼️It’s not my design we just built it for a client. But you are absolutely correct that would’ve stepped up this build 100% grate suggestion. 👍😎
I am going to use Glaze coat as top coat. Will this adhere to Minwax Oil based stain? Or i need to use water based stains only. I read somewhere i can use oil stain, then water based poly and then can use Super Glaze/Glaze Coat/Epoxy as it adheres to water based products only and not to oils based? Your suggestion please
You going to want to use the oil modified Minwax polyurethane. Seal the stain with one to two coats of that then you can rock with your super glaze. I would use a matte finish or a satin on the Minwax poly then I would give it a light sand with 220 before u apply the super glaze. It will look amazing you got this great questions.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips 1. Minwax Oil based Stain 2-3 Coates. 2. Minwax Oil modified Poly Satin finish. 2-3 coats. 3. Light 220 sanding. 4. Glaze coat seal coat. 5. Glaze coat Flood coat. Not sure why to use satin finish poly, i need to make it super glossy. Also why we need to sand 220 before Glaze coat. Thanks in advance.
Yea that looks good you can use all gloss on the clear but the super glaze will bond better to the satin finish and the super glaze will give you the gloss not the minwax. You can try this on a scrap piece of wood first then on the bar if you like how it comes out. Check this video out ⭐️How To Make Little Live Edge Table Or Bench With Log & Dowels🤘@co-know-proconstructiontips ruclips.net/video/s58natZwizU/видео.html
If I want to use Super glaze, how can I use it as the countertop joints are not perfectly sealed and have a gap, so super glaze will leak through that... Pls help me here if it is possible to use Super glaze here?
You can definitely use super glaze, but it will definitely run off the edges a little bit. If it’s areas that are out of sight no big deal but anywhere where it will be visual. You’re going to want to control the flow as it comes down the edges it may drip, but keep an eye on it, so that way you can Remove material as it drips off until it stops dripping then you should be OK. Also, if it does create drips, you can lightly sand those away and apply a thinner coat as a final coat along the edges to clear those areas were sanded. 👍
@@co-know-proconstructiontips thank you very much,i am thinking to use wood glue and wood dust to seal the gap as good as I can.. i think that will help. Another question i have, Can i use Super Glaze on the sides as well (vertical planks)? May be multiple lighter coats with brush? Will it work? Just trying to get a similar shiny finish or do you think sides are better off with poly?
If you read on the directions for super glaze, it says do not use for vertical surfaces , but I have used it on live edge tables were it poured over the edge and did drip but then I sanded and then re-coated with a light coat with brush and it came out beautiful. Check the videos out on this channel Small live edge table
Hey, I'm planning on building something like this onto laminate flooring. The smaller part of the "L" will be anchored into the wall, however I'm wondering how to anchor the more freestanding part to keep it from sliding. At around the 17:15 mark you say "I add two pieces of (what sounds like angle) and anchor it into the concrete" What's the word I'm missing there? And where exactly do you anchor down into the concrete? Can this job be done with just nails or would you recommend adding screws in as well?
I recommend using some screws to make sue it stays locked together really good. You may be ok with just locking it to the wall and let the other end float should be ok. Good luck on your build.Thanks for the comment.
This inspired me to use wood as the countertop. I dnt have any carpentry skills like that but I like to see stuff n do it n I'll get this dne my way. Good job like the shelves too I'll do that
Hi Juan, Thanks and yes it can be moved just make sure if you will be moving it make sue it will fit the door you may have to go threw . If not then make it in 2 sections. thanks for the comment!!!!!!
After you nailed everything together, you checked for squareness and levelness. How would you make the bartop square and level after it was nailed together if it was not already?
The 2X4 sizing thing you mentioned. Somebody tried to sue Home Depot over that for false advertising. They lost. Theres a fairly complex bunch of reasons why its smaller.
Can you give me some of the dimensions of this bar? I'm wanting to build one similar but it is difficult with just the video and no numbers. Thanks so much!
@@co-know-proconstructiontips on the right side where the opening is, how far towards the wall do you think you went? I have my corner pieces ready but I'm trying to figure out how wide I need to make it to support the 2 2x8 top pieces.
Hi Jordan the return on the right side is 12inch so with the 2-2x8 will be about 15 to 16 inch wide you will have approximately 2 inch overhang on each side.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips awesome, bro. I have the frame built but I was waiting to hear back from you so my top will be sound and sturdy for people get on top of this bar. Thanks for your help
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Standard Bar top Height is 42 in to match standard Bar Stools that are found all over. Your build however is fantastic. Really interested in that floor to be honest.
I can put one together. * 10- 2x4s *33- 1x6 cedar dog eared fence planks *1-2x6 reclaimed lumber 7ft long *2-2x6x10ft for bar top you can use 2x8 also *1 box of 3 inch wood screws *1 box of 1-1/2 15 gage nails for wall planks *1 box of 2in 15 gauge nails all gun nails * 2 angle clips * sum small concrete anchors to lock to the floor with the clips Hope that helps Mr.Lowery Thanks for the comment and support stay safe good luck on your build.
Lumber is still cut at full width. You can buy it at any mill yard.. commercial lumber is now milled befor down quarter inch on each side befor they are sold.
You can if you request it .. if not you will get a 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 most lumber yards cut it at 2x4 but it will dry and shrink then get milled once moor so it comes out to 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 not a true 2x4 if you request it thy can cut it bigger so after the milling process is done it is a true 2x4.. back in the day thy were all true 2x4 after the milling and drying process was done not now my friend... Thanks for the comment..
Am with Christopher on this one bud. They still cut them 2x4 from the tree, they are not trying to save trees by making the dimensions smaller. They still cut them 2x4 but when they get planed down to remove roughness the wood piece ends up 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. Back in the old days they would sell you rough cut lumber and thats why it would stay a true 2x4. In old houses demolitions you can refurbish some of that lumber but like I said it will still have all saw marks and imperfections on it
jose pena yup you are absolutely correct and so is Coknowpro depends on the grade of lumber you get as well if you wanted lumber that is not rough hewn. Back in the day they would still cut the wood over sized for clear or #1grade so when milled/ planned it would still be a 2x4 not1- 1/2x3-1/2 like it is now. If it is just standard framing #2 grade yes it is rough hewn and is a full 2x4 back in the day. Do to wood shortages back in the day they do not make it 2x4 any moor hewn or not. Like I say you both are correct 👍🏻😎🔨
CoKnowPro thanks! I have about 300 square feet to cover in my basement. How many kits did you need to purchase to cover your floor? I’m reading mixed reviews on this product in terms of its stated coverage.
Good question!!! Ok each kit dose approximately 125 sq. depending on the surface porosity. SO for 300 sq. 3 kits. If you have the budget to get 4 kits you might want to just incas you need it.Then return 1 if you don't end up using it.One moor thing i love the product but don't love the packaging. When you open the kit it will have all the product in a pouch witch i think is harder to get all the product out a lot sticks to the side of the bags and its hard to get it all out so it might not actually cover 125sq. My opinion would be way better in a quart size can. Make sure to check inside the kits before you buy them sometimes the pouch can be ruptured can't use it then make sure the tint is in the kit and 1 roller sleeve . I usually buy one extra kit mix everything together that way i know i have way more than i need.I apply it really thick because it self levels and if there is some leftovers cool its better then not having enough. Make sure to pay attention in the instructions to the workable time it explains how much time you have to apply the product depending on the work area temperature. Fallow the manufactures instructions. Thanks for the comments check out our other vids have a good one B-Rye ;-}
On these type of builds we like attaching from the top because it helps keep the bar tops from cupping. If it was a manufactured bar top that wasn’t going to acclimate and have a movement as it cures then yes definitely attach from the bottom with some clips or just toenail through the framing. Shouldn’t let things bug you so easily, my friend. Thanks for watching.
Jackpot Jessi And Diamond Doug Actually you are wrong. They used to be cut at 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 so when they were dried and planed and everything was cured and ready to go your final product was 2“ x 4“ do to wood restrictions and deforestation they made the mills cut smaller. It saves a lot of wood do your homework dude. And when I mean homework not google that’s just gonna pull up some bull. I mean go to the library look at an actual book on this. If you even respond to this comment it would be hilarious. Unless it’s a OOOUUU my bad. But you can edit your comment if you feel lame no worries.
DL Construction how many saw mills have you been to? I grew up in a lumber family working in lumber yards and going to saw mills. Call someone at one of the mills and ask. Call Sierra Pacific? If you are referring to plywood why it’s 7/16 vs 1/2 you would be correct in that it’s a cost savings measure. I will say this, as someone who’s fathers company sold more redwood and cedar than anyone on the in the United Stares from the 70’s to 2000’s and someone who has been in dozens of saw mills, you are completely and whole hearted wrong as far as mass produced saw mills. The forestry thing you are talking about when then be only true after lumber cut in the early 90’s. That is when all that started. You are finding lumber that may have been cut on a home saw mill like many places had prior to the 40’s and there were no standardization.
Jackpot Jessi And Diamond Doug with all that knowledge and background you’re still wrong but it’s OK continue to argue the point no worries. As long as you believe it everything’s great 👍🏻 I also have been in and around sawmills my whole life since 78 dozens. More than 3/4 of the sawmills don’t even know of this when you ask them. Sawmills have touchy feelings when it comes to deforestation subjects you can see why it directly affects their business. and a lot of the new generations that work at these miles were not told much. so they will most likely give you some whatever answer. This is all referring to California by the way. I can’t comment on how it is anywhere else but if you notice in the video he does say California and referring to California. He is right on point
www.popsci.com/two-by-four-lumber-measurements-explained/ Popular science a good enough reference for you? Says nothing about deforestation or anything you two idiots are claiming
Once again this is the best idea I have seen on RUclips. I built this bar and the shelves and it turned out AWESOME ‼️ Everyone thinks that I purchased it. Can't thank you enough for this video. All the props to you.
Thanks Charles B that is the best comment of the year👍🏻 that’s exactly why we do these videos. You should be super proud of yourself If they said it looks like you bought it that means you did a really awesome job. Again We are so happy you picked our video to build your bar enjoy it for years and years and years. Thanks for the support on the channel 😎👍🏻🔨
Best video on home bar by far excellent.
Wow, thanks!
Bad Ass from start to finish. Thank you.
Hell ya 👍💪👊 You are very welcome 😎
Such a nice job and good advice and narration bro. Appreciated
Thank you very very much. That was awesome comment thank you for that.
We recently did another bar it’s mobile on casters if you want to check it out it’s in our recent uploads there are two recent bar videos one with just music and time lapse and one with narration. Thanks for watching
I could tell you weren't playing around when I saw the sweat band, but was really convinced you are a sweet builder when you said you'll test the strength but standing on it and then actually did it, that's great
Thank you for that awesome comment👍😎
Awesome mate , good job
Good work👍
Thanks 😊
Great job
Thanks 👍😎
Hi, what did you call the anchors that you are using to hold the bar down. I built a bar but its not sturdy and I think I may need "anchors".
Great question. We used concrete plug anchors with a steel angle clip to lock it to the concrete.
You can use any anchor that is for concrete.
Just keep in mind if you’re going through a 2 x 4 then you’ll need an anchor that is a minimum 2 1/2 inches. If it’s just an angle clip then you can use the concrete plug anchors.
Hope that makes sense to you, you got this👍
Sick, I’m doing this once my offer gets approved for my home.
Go for it!
Very nice!
yo this is beautiful
Good looking out on that amazing comment 😎🔨👍🏻
Pls let me know the width of top, front, left and right
That room is beautiful! Only thing missing is a smart TV, wall mount speakers, I can go much further into detail, but I'll let you stick with your agenda. I think you just gave me an idea for customizing a man cave to my own standards. Just have to learn more about these types of trades & apply myself. Thank you so much for the lesson & I'll look forward to more of your videos in the future.
What is the length, width and height of the initial frame you built(beforee putting top)using 2x4s?
Yes, we were using two by fours. If you referring to the frame of the bar you can really make it whatever size you’d like but if you use this style of putting the bar together will make it easy for you.
We have another bar video on this channel how to build a bar for your business or home. Be sure to check it out. Hopefully that video will answer your questions if not, let us know.
What you build is exactly what i need, so those dimensions can really help me, maybe the 2x4s height then length x width x depth. By depth i mean the distance from back wall to the front of the frame. Once i have rough idea of the dimensions,i can start building immediately.Thanks in advance.
I am WAY late on this video but MAN!!! I can SO DO THIS! I'm moving into my first home in a few weeks and am looking to add a bar. I can't afford a contractor to do the work so I am on my own. Your design is simple enough for me to follow and alter in size a bit. Awesome job!
Thanks for the comment! congrats on the new home have fun man on that Bar. I am sure it will be awesome. Have a good one....
I think it's simple as well. I'm gonna give it a try myself!
Dope AF Your method is great. gonna rock with that but may be do veneer rock face
Do you have the plans for this? Nice!!
Thanks ,No plans I built it freestyle, but you can see the process and how I do it. We have another bar video it is built the same way as this bar but freestanding and movable. Check out that vid as well should help you figure out my design it is pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips thanks, not a wood guy myself but I am good with my hands so I should be able to figure it out
Very beautiful bar but missing TV space and a beautiful bottle rack
Absolutely‼️It’s not my design we just built it for a client. But you are absolutely correct that would’ve stepped up this build 100% grate suggestion. 👍😎
Great video. Best and clearest instructions I've seen in all the videos I'll looked at. Thanks for the help
Really awesome man, nice job!
Thanks a lot!
I am going to use Glaze coat as top coat. Will this adhere to Minwax Oil based stain? Or i need to use water based stains only. I read somewhere i can use oil stain, then water based poly and then can use Super Glaze/Glaze Coat/Epoxy as it adheres to water based products only and not to oils based? Your suggestion please
You going to want to use the oil modified Minwax polyurethane.
Seal the stain with one to two coats of that then you can rock with your super glaze.
I would use a matte finish or a satin on the Minwax poly then I would give it a light sand with 220 before u apply the super glaze. It will look amazing you got this great questions.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips
1. Minwax Oil based Stain 2-3 Coates.
2. Minwax Oil modified Poly Satin finish. 2-3 coats.
3. Light 220 sanding.
4. Glaze coat seal coat.
5. Glaze coat Flood coat.
Not sure why to use satin finish poly, i need to make it super glossy. Also why we need to sand 220 before Glaze coat. Thanks in advance.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips can you pls confirm steps and products i mentioned..? I am about to start the stain and glaze process... Thanks.
Yea that looks good you can use all gloss on the clear but the super glaze will bond better to the satin finish and the super glaze will give you the gloss not the minwax. You can try this on a scrap piece of wood first then on the bar if you like how it comes out. Check this video out
⭐️How To Make Little Live Edge Table Or Bench With Log & Dowels🤘@co-know-proconstructiontips
ruclips.net/video/s58natZwizU/видео.html
We have upstart Epoxy there but we used a super glaze
nice job. i like how it was simple & clean.
If I want to use Super glaze, how can I use it as the countertop joints are not perfectly sealed and have a gap, so super glaze will leak through that... Pls help me here if it is possible to use Super glaze here?
You can definitely use super glaze, but it will definitely run off the edges a little bit. If it’s areas that are out of sight no big deal but anywhere where it will be visual. You’re going to want to control the flow as it comes down the edges it may drip, but keep an eye on it, so that way you can Remove material as it drips off until it stops dripping then you should be OK. Also, if it does create drips, you can lightly sand those away and apply a thinner coat as a final coat along the edges to clear those areas were sanded. 👍
@@co-know-proconstructiontips thank you very much,i am thinking to use wood glue and wood dust to seal the gap as good as I can.. i think that will help. Another question i have, Can i use Super Glaze on the sides as well (vertical planks)? May be multiple lighter coats with brush? Will it work? Just trying to get a similar shiny finish or do you think sides are better off with poly?
If you read on the directions for super glaze, it says do not use for vertical surfaces , but I have used it on live edge tables were it poured over the edge and did drip but then I sanded and then re-coated with a light coat with brush and it came out beautiful.
Check the videos out on this channel
Small live edge table
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Awesome, thanks a lot.
Hey,
I'm planning on building something like this onto laminate flooring. The smaller part of the "L" will be anchored into the wall, however I'm wondering how to anchor the more freestanding part to keep it from sliding.
At around the 17:15 mark you say "I add two pieces of (what sounds like angle) and anchor it into the concrete" What's the word I'm missing there? And where exactly do you anchor down into the concrete?
Can this job be done with just nails or would you recommend adding screws in as well?
I recommend using some screws to make sue it stays locked together really good. You may be ok with just locking it to the wall and let the other end float should be ok. Good luck on your build.Thanks for the comment.
So dope love this vid ‼️👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🔨
what kind of paint and color is on the floor? Thanks 👌
It is rock solid Rust-Oleum Metallic Copper pot. Thanks for the comment.
Great video 👍🏻
Did you drill pocket holes to attach the 1x8 countertop boards as well?
Yea pilot with countersink for the bar top 👍😎
awesome!!!
Great idea for the backbar.
Thanks 😊
Nice Patty Cross. "The Boss." Like that sign.
What's the height from the floor to top of your bar without the counter top
What were your measurements???
I love this video! ❤️
I’m a recent home owner and I want to add this to my home. how much of each material did you need? Or how did you figure out how much you would need?
What up D I did not see this comment you good ?
How many of each board did you get?
I got approximately 35 dogeared fence planks all cedar.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips thats what you used just for the bar? Im trying to figure how many sizes and peices to buy to make the bar only
Approximately 20 boards.
20 for just the bar that includes the shelf on the inside and the trim around the edges i ripped down to the size i needed. Hope that helps.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips all fence planks?
can i get plans?
How much did you spend on lumber?
About $350 Lumber, nails and screws.
This inspired me to use wood as the countertop. I dnt have any carpentry skills like that but I like to see stuff n do it n I'll get this dne my way. Good job like the shelves too I'll do that
Glad you like the vid Shatta thanks for the dope comment bro shoot me a pic of your work when u r done if u want. Thanks for the support..
Thats really nice man i think I will build one for myself! Can it be moved easily incase you move snd you want to take it?
Hi Juan, Thanks and yes it can be moved just make sure if you will be moving it make sue it will fit the door you may have to go threw . If not then make it in 2 sections. thanks for the comment!!!!!!
How did you attach the plates for the shelving to the wall?
I want to know too . Because I want to do my basement
So beautiful 👍🏻👏🏼
Thanks so much Linda :-}
After you nailed everything together, you checked for squareness and levelness. How would you make the bartop square and level after it was nailed together if it was not already?
Awesome video. How did you attach the vertical 2x4s to the back wall? 🤔
I toenailed into the top horizontal piece and bottom piece and a couple nails on the sides as well going up the vertical 👍🏻😎🔨📐
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Excellent. Thanks a bunch
Absolutely Charles have a good one and thanks for the comment and support 👍🏻😎🔨
Do top and bottom horizontal 2x4s are fastened to studs using screws? Also the planks on the wall are attached to studs?
Can you pls answer my question, how you attached top n bottom horizontal 2x4?
The 2X4 sizing thing you mentioned. Somebody tried to sue Home Depot over that for false advertising. They lost. Theres a fairly complex bunch of reasons why its smaller.
You got that right thanks for sharing that info with us even though it’s been a year we appreciate you leavening a comment and watching the video.
Can you give me some of the dimensions of this bar? I'm wanting to build one similar but it is difficult with just the video and no numbers. Thanks so much!
Hi Jordan, The bar is 48H by 72L hope that helps.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips on the right side where the opening is, how far towards the wall do you think you went? I have my corner pieces ready but I'm trying to figure out how wide I need to make it to support the 2 2x8 top pieces.
Hi Jordan the return on the right side is 12inch so with the 2-2x8 will be about 15 to 16 inch wide you will have approximately 2 inch overhang on each side.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips awesome, bro. I have the frame built but I was waiting to hear back from you so my top will be sound and sturdy for people get on top of this bar. Thanks for your help
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Standard Bar top Height is 42 in to match standard Bar Stools that are found all over. Your build however is fantastic. Really interested in that floor to be honest.
Why did you use a paintroller for the floor instead of a squeegee? It looks like there are streaks in your coating.
That was the manufactures roller that comes with the product.
YAY you did gerat
Well done!! Great job brother now just need a bottle of Patron tequila and salud, again nice job
Thanks for the awesome comment:-}
I would of just put a flat screen there
Can I hire you to build one for us??! Lol I wish 😂
For sure
Man do you have the cut list for this
I can put one together.
* 10- 2x4s
*33- 1x6 cedar dog eared fence planks
*1-2x6 reclaimed lumber 7ft long
*2-2x6x10ft for bar top you can use 2x8 also
*1 box of 3 inch wood screws
*1 box of 1-1/2 15 gage nails for wall planks
*1 box of 2in 15 gauge nails all gun nails
* 2 angle clips
* sum small concrete anchors to lock to the floor with the clips
Hope that helps Mr.Lowery Thanks for the comment and support stay safe good luck on your build.
Thanks. I’m headed to Home Depot. Gonna it build today.
Lumber is still cut at full width. You can buy it at any mill yard.. commercial lumber is now milled befor down quarter inch on each side befor they are sold.
You can if you request it .. if not you will get a 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 most lumber yards cut it at 2x4 but it will dry and shrink then get milled once moor so it comes out to 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 not a true 2x4 if you request it thy can cut it bigger so after the milling process is done it is a true 2x4.. back in the day thy were all true 2x4 after the milling and drying process was done not now my friend... Thanks for the comment..
Am with Christopher on this one bud. They still cut them 2x4 from the tree, they are not trying to save trees by making the dimensions smaller. They still cut them 2x4 but when they get planed down to remove roughness the wood piece ends up 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. Back in the old days they would sell you rough cut lumber and thats why it would stay a true 2x4. In old houses demolitions you can refurbish some of that lumber but like I said it will still have all saw marks and imperfections on it
jose pena yup you are absolutely correct and so is Coknowpro depends on the grade of lumber you get as well if you wanted lumber that is not rough hewn. Back in the day they would still cut the wood over sized for clear or #1grade so when milled/ planned it would still be a 2x4 not1- 1/2x3-1/2 like it is now. If it is just standard framing #2 grade yes it is rough hewn and is a full 2x4 back in the day. Do to wood shortages back in the day they do not make it 2x4 any moor hewn or not. Like I say you both are correct 👍🏻😎🔨
I need info on the product you used for the floor -- looks GREAT!....... NEVERMIND... found the info in description, thanks!
Hi B-Rye,The product we used on the floor is( ROCK SOLID) by rust-oleum cooper pot is the color.
CoKnowPro thanks! I have about 300 square feet to cover in my basement. How many kits did you need to purchase to cover your floor? I’m reading mixed reviews on this product in terms of its stated coverage.
Good question!!! Ok each kit dose approximately 125 sq. depending on the surface porosity. SO for 300 sq. 3 kits. If you have the budget to get 4 kits you might want to just incas you need it.Then return 1 if you don't end up using it.One moor thing i love the product but don't love the packaging. When you open the kit it will have all the product in a pouch witch i think is harder to get all the product out a lot sticks to the side of the bags and its hard to get it all out so it might not actually cover 125sq. My opinion would be way better in a quart size can. Make sure to check inside the kits before you buy them sometimes the pouch can be ruptured can't use it then make sure the tint is in the kit and 1 roller sleeve . I usually buy one extra kit mix everything together that way i know i have way more than i need.I apply it really thick because it self levels and if there is some leftovers cool its better then not having enough. Make sure to pay attention in the instructions to the workable time it explains how much time you have to apply the product depending on the work area temperature. Fallow the manufactures instructions. Thanks for the comments check out our other vids have a good one B-Rye ;-}
Would be more helpful in first person point of view
Thanks for the feedback
Should have 45ed your siding and top looks good otherwise for a cheap build. Also your recessed light is off center of the bar.
Did not install the light it was existing thanks for the comment
Nice but it really bugs me that your attaching it from the top
On these type of builds we like attaching from the top because it helps keep the bar tops from cupping.
If it was a manufactured bar top that wasn’t going to acclimate and have a movement as it cures then yes definitely attach from the bottom with some clips or just toenail through the framing. Shouldn’t let things bug you so easily, my friend. Thanks for watching.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips thanks for the explanation. makes sense
nice work, you want to build my house?
Hi Justin, email us your info to coknowpro@gmail.com. Thanks!
2x4’s are still cute to 2x4 but once they are planes and dried they are smaller. You are completely wrong in what you are saying.
Jackpot Jessi And Diamond Doug Actually you are wrong. They used to be cut at 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 so when they were dried and planed and everything was cured and ready to go your final product was 2“ x 4“ do to wood restrictions and deforestation they made the mills cut smaller. It saves a lot of wood do your homework dude. And when I mean homework not google that’s just gonna pull up some bull. I mean go to the library look at an actual book on this. If you even respond to this comment it would be hilarious. Unless it’s a OOOUUU my bad. But you can edit your comment if you feel lame no worries.
DL Construction how many saw mills have you been to? I grew up in a lumber family working in lumber yards and going to saw mills. Call someone at one of the mills and ask. Call Sierra Pacific? If you are referring to plywood why it’s 7/16 vs 1/2 you would be correct in that it’s a cost savings measure. I will say this, as someone who’s fathers company sold more redwood and cedar than anyone on the in the United Stares from the 70’s to 2000’s and someone who has been in dozens of saw mills, you are completely and whole hearted wrong as far as mass produced saw mills. The forestry thing you are talking about when then be only true after lumber cut in the early 90’s. That is when all that started. You are finding lumber that may have been cut on a home saw mill like many places had prior to the 40’s and there were no standardization.
Jackpot Jessi And Diamond Doug with all that knowledge and background you’re still wrong but it’s OK continue to argue the point no worries. As long as you believe it everything’s great 👍🏻 I also have been in and around sawmills my whole life since 78 dozens. More than 3/4 of the sawmills don’t even know of this when you ask them. Sawmills have touchy feelings when it comes to deforestation subjects you can see why it directly affects their business. and a lot of the new generations that work at these miles were not told much. so they will most likely give you some whatever answer. This is all referring to California by the way. I can’t comment on how it is anywhere else but if you notice in the video he does say California and referring to California. He is right on point
www.popsci.com/two-by-four-lumber-measurements-explained/
Popular science a good enough reference for you? Says nothing about deforestation or anything you two idiots are claiming