Range rover/Jag supercharger 4.2l M112 rebuild/inspection, coupler change pt2 and parts list
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- pt1 removal of M112 eaton super charger from 06 range rover, same engine as the jaguars as well
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PARTS LIST
Square top super charger seal 1347543
Rear horn gasket 71841QJ
Intake Duct x2 4628214
Throttle body gasket 4536886
Coolant square O rings x2 4413478
Charger vane needle bearings F390978 FC65477
Coupler Rebuilt kit/snout bearings www.ebay.com/i...
Great job on not having blood running off your knuckles. Nice work on everything. When i did my charger rebuild on my 06 s type r i replaced those torx head bolts on the water manifold with hex heads. Also on the jaguar the room between the induction elbow and firewall is nil. Easier to take off as a unit. I have had the charger on and off 3 times. Did not do coolant hoses first time. Third time is when i rebuilt it with a rotor pack with only 35,000 miles on it and new snout and needle bearings. With the shortcuts i learned i can have itt off in less than 2 hours now. Hope to never have to again as there is nothing left to replace under or around it. They are a challenge the first time
Thank you for posting an amazing video. You truly take pride in your work as I can see your a perfectionist. Wish you were closer and if have my supercharger checked and serviced by you sir.
Thank you again 👍🏼
Thank you so much! This was my fist video. I hope this helped!
i love this video. but i wish i could have seen more clearly how you were pressing out the bearing. nice build of this supercharger
I know I'm sorry. This was my first video with an old camera so I wasn't able to really see the production value unti I had uploaded it to the computer
How was it getting that rear 10mm bolt out under the 90° snout to the throttle body? I had a heck of a time. I could feel it but dang it was difficult.
I did this Job years ago but I can't remember
How to remove intek manifold on 2004 Jaguar s type 4.2 liter engine tanks
Can you list the part numbers. It's difficult to read them in the video. Thanks.
Yes, give me a day and i will post it up for you
Parts list is up :) i think i got everything
Any idea if the range rover & jag share the same throttle body on these cars? Some of the jag guys are upgrading their intake to the range rover one for better air flow. Super charger is the same one. But no one is talking about the throttle body at all. I'm learning lol
I personally have never heard of this. But I don't closely follow these cars in that way
Thank You for Posting This! I have an ‘09 and it’s Throwing Codes like Mad: System Too Lean (both Banks), Transmission Shifting Errors, etc. It Will Go into ‘Reduced Engine Performance’ mode due to System Too Lean & Transmission Faults. The Transmission is Slipping Badly, too. Any Ideas for Me, Sir? I’m Ready to Work on Her this Winter. I Believe I Have 95% if Required Tools to do Anything. I Bought It to Keep Forever & Safari-Mod it Out, it I’m Daily Driving it for Now.
The lean codes will be some kind of air leak, bad intake gaskets, or broken hoses. Spraying some carb cleaner around suspected areas can help find these, as the engine will rev up when the cleaner is drawn into the leak. As for the trans, you need special tools and a scanner to fill it properly. You will need to pull the trans codes to see whats going on, but most likely a solenoid or valve body pack. If that is the case, i would do the trans harness Oring.
I have the same charger in my jag str mine is losing the coating on the rotors I heard the Ford lighting guys strip it all off?
I have no knowledge about that. I would assume the coating is there for a reason
Nice video 💯💯💯💯💯💯🛠🛠💻
Where are you located.. how much do you charge for the whole job and how long did this job take
I am located in a northwest suburb of Chicago. I am at $125/hr. I believe the job takes about 8hrs
How do you change the rotor pack bearings and seals?
I didn't change them, just added a little grease, but I believe you just punch them out and tap the new ones in
@@nsigarage5212 it’s for a ford lightning. M112. Someone told me you have to change the whole rotor pack and break the housing? Doesn’t make sense to me. Why would they sell a kit with the bearings and seals for the rotors if you have to buy a new set? Also I was told the rotors have to be in time with each other? I don’t see and markings that suggest that.
I can only see needing new rotors if the bearings are somehow obliterated and the rotors where bouncing around. As far as timing on the m112 I did some looking around and can't find anything, if you were a tooth off I don't think they would mesh and drop in. As far as breaking apart I think he means what I did in the video by cracking the middle section out with the small dead blow after taking the snout off. And they sell bearings as part of some kits because some people just want to refresh it while you are in there
Is this a job I can hire you to do on my identical supercharger? *I’m in NY and would be able to send you just the supercharger.
I'm in Chicago. The rebuilding of the super charger itself is something any competent mechanic should be able to do. As much as I would love to take your money, I feel you would be wasting it on the shipping
Bmw tech here but just bought one of these. Is it possible to do this without pulling the whole charger?
No, pulling the charger is the easy part. It's all the junk in the front like coolant cross over that's the hard part. I think total book time is only like 6 hours with the rebuilding
I have same supercharger from 4.2l do you know the bearings codes? I think 2 X needles and 2 different sizes open bearings for nose. Appreciated if you could share the pn.
The part numbers are in the video description. The ebay link is for the bearings/rebuilt kit. The rest of the numbers the LR numbers for any gaskets needed. Press the "V" down arrow next to the title for the list
@@nsigarage5212 I cant see any 6203 or 6204 bearings there. Thanks. I will open my sc and find out.
Those bearings for the nose are part of the coupler rebuilt kit, in the ebay link. Hope this helps.
Is that the same supercharger on 2010 range rover 5.0?
NO. Completely different setup
How did you find out the supercharger even had oil? The service people and even a very involved certified lr tech that gone independent said the oil was engine fed to the supercharger and now where in the manual of service says u need to service the supercharger oil unlike the transmission which it doesn't but you know damn well to have some sense and change it as we all know it has oil/fluid. I had no idea superchargers required oil that was not fed from the engine.
I not sure I've run across a super charger that is engine oil fed. Given I don't deal with a alot of them, but most manufacturers don't make either own chargers, most use Eaton's. MB, rover, jag, GM all used Eaton's at some point.
Also any trans fluid is "lifetime" if you don't change it untill the unit explodes! Hope my video helps. It was my first one so if you have any questions on the repair please feel free to email me at nosleepinc2020@gmail.com
I also didn't recognize that the tip of the shaft has a plastic plug on it, and I mushed it. Oops lol
what type of cleaner are you using.
Brake cleaner. I buy it by the gallon instead of in a can. You fill the canister and used compressed air.
@@nsigarage5212 thanks my jaguar has been down for over a year with a coolant leak your video solved the last piece of the puzzle for removing the supercharger thank you.
If you have any other questions feel free to email me at nosleepinc2020@gmail.com
Amazing. Someone's garage looks just as bad as mine!
II'm at this point now. Having a B*tch of a time getting the pulley to release from the shaft (instead of how you're doing it: pushing the shaft through the entire snout), I've supported the pulley and am trying to push the shaft just through the pulley first. Heat/Freeze-Off/Pressure...repeatrepeatrepeat. It popped, and I thought I had it...but I didn't. #$^#*&$
Yeah you can see around the 8 min mark I have some hesitation pressing the shaft out of the pulley because it was so tight, and I ended up using a torch under pressure and cracked free when I hit it with penetrating oil. Just keep your eye on bottom of the snout so you don't warp it
@@nsigarage5212 That's exactly why I've put press plates (using the circle cutouts) under the inside LIP of the pulley, and am pushing the shaft ONLY THROUGH THE PULLEY.
It's not working yet. I'm using CRC Freez-Off, and I can definitely see corrosion around the edge of the shaft. I'm letting it sit in the press under pressure while the penetrating oil works. I only have a 12 ton press, and I hope that isn't the limiting issue.
Tare down....
Sigh...