Thank you for watching Robert! The rears are much easier, the later backing plates bolt right on to the rear axle, all you need to do for clearance is the flip the backing plate upside down and switch the brake cylinders from side to side because they need to face forwards
I read that '39 Ford drums won't fit to original Model A wheels. That means that even if I use '35 Ford 16" wire wheels, those '39 Drums wouldn't likely fit. My A is already on the road in basically stock condition, so I wouldn't be able to do that extra K member in the frame. So I'd have to have an alternative to that one.
Zac, thanks for the info...now to find the '39 parts. Speed may be the best place to start since I don't have a donor car sitting around. Also, the link to MilWorksHotRod is broken. Thanks brother
Thanks for your videos they help a lot. So in your mod on hydraulic brakes do you use the complete 39 brake assembly with shoes and drums on the rear? What happens to the shaft that sticks out a mile there?
Hey man I just got a flathead question for you. I have a 59ab its been parked since 1987. It's a no start. I have a rebuilt crab and distributor, new fuel pump, wires ,plugs, condenser, I have spark and fuel, I've flushed out old oil and sludge with a few oil changes, I checked to see that all valve's are moving up and down while cracking it by hand. I got it at top dead center. Cut my exhaust off. Also have new voltage regulator, solenoid terminal ends new battery. I feel like I have everything going for me, I think, is there anything I'm missing or should look for? After cutting my exhaust off I had a few more cranks out of the new battery , I did put a few about 3 caps of gas down the carburetor, I'm thinking I flooded it, I'm not sure where to set the chook on the carb when starting, now I have to get my battery changed to get back at it. Thanks for you're videos saving old ford one at a time.
If I was there in person the first thing I would check and see if the point gap was .015 and that the points were clean, double check that you have spark to the plugs. Then I would remove the carb top and fill the bowl full with gas and try again
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok I'll check on those and double check them, the guy that rebuilt the distributor or cleaned it up, set it up to go, as far as I know. I never removed the top of the carb to fill the bowl, I tried to poor some in that little filler to the bowl but dumped gas down the carb, I have good spark I even swapped out another new condensor because I thought it was a little weak. I'm also thinking getting a new coil, the one I have is new it works but I'm sure it been on a shelf as long as I've been alive.
@@michaelmchugh2923 ouch a new coil is very easy to come by, I use a 1.5 ohm with a ballast resistor that I buy at the local auto parts shop. Hopefully it’ll fire after that, worst case scenario the distributor is 180 degrees out, but that usually cracks or brakes the distributor
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok, I'll look into a new coil to be safe, I did find top dead center and popped the cap and the rotor was pointing right at number one. Should I give it another rotation to and check the rotor in case it is 180 off? Or would I have the same results.
@@michaelmchugh2923 on a Flathead you can tell if it’s TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke without pulling the intake or putting a camera down the spark plug hole, I would say double check things then if you get the same results take distributor off and rotate, of course unless you can confirm TDC
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Enjoyed the this video as I’m doing the same swap on my 30’ A. I just wished that you had shown the process on the rear brakes as well.
Thank you for watching Robert! The rears are much easier, the later backing plates bolt right on to the rear axle, all you need to do for clearance is the flip the backing plate upside down and switch the brake cylinders from side to side because they need to face forwards
I read that '39 Ford drums won't fit to original Model A wheels. That means that even if I use '35 Ford 16" wire wheels, those '39 Drums wouldn't likely fit. My A is already on the road in basically stock condition, so I wouldn't be able to do that extra K member in the frame. So I'd have to have an alternative to that one.
I parked next to you in the hotel lot at TROG. Got to see the car in person. Nice work man!
Thanks Jeff, which car was yours??
Keep up the good work brother! Love your videos! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Wayne I appreciate it!
Great video finely found a car with the same brakes as I have on my 30s Model A pick up over in the UK
excellent video!
Thank you!
Thank you for posting this vid. I am thinking of getting an a and juice brakes were a consideration. Good work.
Thank you!
very helpful thanks
Glad to help!
Zac, thanks for the info...now to find the '39 parts. Speed may be the best place to start since I don't have a donor car sitting around. Also, the link to MilWorksHotRod is broken. Thanks brother
Thanks for your videos they help a lot. So in your mod on hydraulic brakes do you use the complete 39 brake assembly with shoes and drums on the rear? What happens to the shaft that sticks out a mile there?
That’s correct I use the complete 1939 brake system. If you are talking about the manual brake shaft I just take it out and throw it away
Would 49 ford custom swap over to model a?
Hey man I just got a flathead question for you. I have a 59ab its been parked since 1987. It's a no start. I have a rebuilt crab and distributor, new fuel pump, wires ,plugs, condenser, I have spark and fuel, I've flushed out old oil and sludge with a few oil changes, I checked to see that all valve's are moving up and down while cracking it by hand. I got it at top dead center. Cut my exhaust off. Also have new voltage regulator, solenoid terminal ends new battery. I feel like I have everything going for me, I think, is there anything I'm missing or should look for?
After cutting my exhaust off I had a few more cranks out of the new battery , I did put a few about 3 caps of gas down the carburetor, I'm thinking I flooded it, I'm not sure where to set the chook on the carb when starting, now I have to get my battery changed to get back at it. Thanks for you're videos saving old ford one at a time.
If I was there in person the first thing I would check and see if the point gap was .015 and that the points were clean, double check that you have spark to the plugs. Then I would remove the carb top and fill the bowl full with gas and try again
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok I'll check on those and double check them, the guy that rebuilt the distributor or cleaned it up, set it up to go, as far as I know. I never removed the top of the carb to fill the bowl, I tried to poor some in that little filler to the bowl but dumped gas down the carb, I have good spark I even swapped out another new condensor because I thought it was a little weak. I'm also thinking getting a new coil, the one I have is new it works but I'm sure it been on a shelf as long as I've been alive.
@@michaelmchugh2923 ouch a new coil is very easy to come by, I use a 1.5 ohm with a ballast resistor that I buy at the local auto parts shop. Hopefully it’ll fire after that, worst case scenario the distributor is 180 degrees out, but that usually cracks or brakes the distributor
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop ok, I'll look into a new coil to be safe, I did find top dead center and popped the cap and the rotor was pointing right at number one.
Should I give it another rotation to and check the rotor in case it is 180 off? Or would I have the same results.
@@michaelmchugh2923 on a Flathead you can tell if it’s TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke without pulling the intake or putting a camera down the spark plug hole, I would say double check things then if you get the same results take distributor off and rotate, of course unless you can confirm TDC
Will these conversion kits still work with the 19" wire wheels?
Frigin kickass👌
Thank you!
Did the same 1930 drums fit?
Sorry the Model a drums have to be replace with later drums