Nice results. I got some promising fairyopal waiting, so I am stoked for this series. Particularly about stabilising and potentially using a vacuum chamber. Thanks for putting in the effort to teach us.
@@RoysRocks Yes, by 'easier' I mean less faffing around buying rubber gloves and masks and chemicals and remembering whether to use a plastic or glass container. This one I can do with everyday household items. How about making a video buying guide to matrix and fairy opal? I can't get a grip on how some vendors are pricing this stuff. But it seems to be getting more expensive all the time.
I'm already writing up the modern day equivalent of a book to put up on the website. Maybe if I can collect a bunch of good quality photos I could put something in print.
Nice job Roy. The oven baking is safest, but I have found using sulfuric acid does give a much better treatment.. they will need retreatment after cabbing, but great. Look forward to what stabilisation you use
Most ovens in the USA reach 500° F or higher and that's NOT the boiler ( us broilers typically start at 600° f and go as high as 1000°f with very expensive ceramic element I.R. broilers reaching up to 1800°F ) . Is that regular oven temp still safe at that point ,assuming the slow rises in temp?
I would have never said the word "broiler". What was used in this video is a slow cooker with a warm setting of 46°C, low of 85°C and high or 100°C. Domestic ovens max temp rating will vary on the manufacturer. Most around here are 240-250°C. I repair laboratory ovens that can go higher but I limit them with a 260°C overtemperature protection to protect the element.
@@RoysRocks With Hard Andamooka yeah maybe but not Fairy. I spent months in the shop trying to find a method to stabilise and polish it that I am super happy with. Grids and grids of blanks just like the ones that you have there with different stabilisers, times, methods, temperatures. I did make a lot of progress but still not where I want to be. I think it is totally possible to have a perfect finish on fairy that its not pitted and without that synthetic liquid glass exterior that is traditionally used with this material. I found so many ways not to do it. Starboard thick/thin/black etc, opticon, HXTAL, all manner of UV resin types, marine resins, lapidary resins, 330/acetone , vacuum chambers, mason jars and cactus juice, and a bunch of stuff from some Indian cutters that I couldn't even pronounce. Off all of the people working it, I think Agus is getting the best results. His fairy stones are damn near perfect and I dont think it has much to do with the stabiliser but rather how he uses it. All very secret of course for commercial reasons and I can understand that.
First of many but in the end I am hoping one method of treating and stabilising comes out on top so really should end up as just one useful summary video in the end.
Fantastic Roy, I love that you bring the scientific method to your investigations!
Well this might be another PhD in the making with the list of tests I have to get done.
@@RoysRocks And it would be so well cited!
Nice results. I got some promising fairyopal waiting, so I am stoked for this series. Particularly about stabilising and potentially using a vacuum chamber. Thanks for putting in the effort to teach us.
Its fun stuff to play with so if you get to work and cut it up by the time you are done I should have a few treatment options up here for you.
Thanks for this. I didn't know there are methods that don't require acid, so it's a relief to know there are easier ways.
Yeah I wouldn't say easier the acid is actually pretty easy just corrosive.
Easier to get the material required though.
@@RoysRocks Yes, by 'easier' I mean less faffing around buying rubber gloves and masks and chemicals and remembering whether to use a plastic or glass container. This one I can do with everyday household items.
How about making a video buying guide to matrix and fairy opal? I can't get a grip on how some vendors are pricing this stuff. But it seems to be getting more expensive all the time.
Nice! Looking forward to the rest of the project! Very cool!
Its gunna be a long one but hopefully interesting and useful.
Very interesting series. I really enjoy compare and contrast methods. In the end you could publish your results. I think it would make a great book.
I'm already writing up the modern day equivalent of a book to put up on the website.
Maybe if I can collect a bunch of good quality photos I could put something in print.
Awesome video and great timing i have a bunch of andamooka matrix I need to get stuck into and will be watching eagerly
Nice. I should have a few more on the way in no time. Maybe even the acid option before xmas. Just trying to decide on release order.
Thanks Roy. My vacuum chamber will have many uses, I think!😊
I'll show off the vacuum chamber way of doing this soon. It can be a bit better but a little more work.
Cool. I treated mine (from Opalton) with sugar and sprayed with clear coat. Looking forward to seeing how you’re going to do the finish..
There may be a spray option in the list...
Interesting video 2x👍
Thanks just one of many. Got the simple one done first.
Nice job Roy. The oven baking is safest, but I have found using sulfuric acid does give a much better treatment.. they will need retreatment after cabbing, but great. Look forward to what stabilisation you use
These ones won't be getting cabbed, just display tiles. Acid is nice and should be up next.
Exciting topic
Thank you so much for this. ✌️♥️♥️
No worries Karen, many more like it to come.
Most ovens in the USA reach 500° F or higher and that's NOT the boiler ( us broilers typically start at 600° f and go as high as 1000°f with very expensive ceramic element I.R. broilers reaching up to 1800°F ) . Is that regular oven temp still safe at that point ,assuming the slow rises in temp?
I would have never said the word "broiler". What was used in this video is a slow cooker with a warm setting of 46°C, low of 85°C and high or 100°C.
Domestic ovens max temp rating will vary on the manufacturer. Most around here are 240-250°C.
I repair laboratory ovens that can go higher but I limit them with a 260°C overtemperature protection to protect the element.
Yes! Roy's Breaking Bad Rocks of 2025. Get stuck in :)
You'd know this method better than me but I promise some real mad scientist stuff coming right up surrounding stabilization.
@@RoysRocks With Hard Andamooka yeah maybe but not Fairy. I spent months in the shop trying to find a method to stabilise and polish it that I am super happy with. Grids and grids of blanks just like the ones that you have there with different stabilisers, times, methods, temperatures. I did make a lot of progress but still not where I want to be. I think it is totally possible to have a perfect finish on fairy that its not pitted and without that synthetic liquid glass exterior that is traditionally used with this material. I found so many ways not to do it. Starboard thick/thin/black etc, opticon, HXTAL, all manner of UV resin types, marine resins, lapidary resins, 330/acetone , vacuum chambers, mason jars and cactus juice, and a bunch of stuff from some Indian cutters that I couldn't even pronounce. Off all of the people working it, I think Agus is getting the best results. His fairy stones are damn near perfect and I dont think it has much to do with the stabiliser but rather how he uses it. All very secret of course for commercial reasons and I can understand that.
If this is the first lesson, 2025 is shaping up to be an extremely interesting year, and I can't wait! 😁
First of many but in the end I am hoping one method of treating and stabilising comes out on top so really should end up as just one useful summary video in the end.
@RoysRocks well, Thank you for all your hard work on, all things opal, regardless how you deliver it! 😊
You just have to remember not to eat the tasty rock candy afterwards
True. Very tasty
Me, making morning toast
Haha I just did that... at 1130. I love my raisin toast at any time of day.
Making opal candy 😂😂
Pretty much. I have overshot before and essentially made toffee rocks... should have had it on a dop stick