2002 Volkwagen Passat 2.8L Intermittent No Start (faulty crank sensor)
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- 2002 VW Passat 2.8L, I forgot to mention a previous shop replaced a fuel pump and the fuel pump relay for this concern before I looked at it, intermittent no start, no faults stored when the veh doesn't start I have no spark and no inj pulse, after the veh stalls if you let it sit for a few minutes it will start back up, I had to road test this car to make it happen and ended up doing my tests on the side of the road in traffic which made it a little stressful, I made some mistakes in this one (assumed it was a hall effect was the main one) but it makes for a good learning experience, hope you enjoy thanks for watching.
Nice job , I was agreeing with you when you first said it . Also when you were out in the field thinking about the 5 volt reference, I was laughing and saying look up the component specs , you have the Verus in front of you...too bad there is no two way radio on our Verusus..! 😂
Only a mechanic will say damn it, it started 😂
Gotta love the guided component tests....as long as the info is accurate. I've noticed a lot of errors in snap on's data base that can really mess you up lol
in this case it was my fault, I assumed it was a hall effect..so when I saw the 2.6v it threw me off when really I believe that 2.6v is a bias voltage from the computer on the ckp (-) of the crank sensor
Positive Lead Diagnostics The three wire harness would make me think Hall effect.....
Che Kelley that's what I thought but really it's a vrs The 3 wires are ckp (+) ckp(-) and the other is a shielded wire going to ground
Positive Lead Diagnostics good catch!
Great video friend. Your channel is great with your diagnostic on VW. I live in Europe and we got lot of VW. I think that it must set a error code for the cranck sensor the minute when the engine stoped to work because of sensor malfunction. But when the sensor is cold again the code disappear because the ECU it see it again.
I have a 2002 Passat 2.8 with stalling and no start after. Crank no start. No spark (no power to the coil) and no fuel ( no power to the fuel pump) checked fp relay as it powers both the coil and pump, and had damaged pins, now I replaced it and it starts faster when it does start, but still randomly stalls and won’t start back up
Did you have power on fuse 29 20A?
I got this same problem on the same car right now
So in case of magnetic sensor like that.In order to call the sensor : 1.Back probe the 2 pins for + and -.Should give 2.6v KOEO. 2. attach the + and - to scope and crank the engine.If no signal change then call the sensor?
I’ve heard that two wire sensors are the A/C sign wave sensors, and three wire sensors are digital sine wave sensors. Is my information wrong, or does Volkswagen just use something wacky?
You are correct. But there are 3 wire vrs style sensors like this one. The 3rd wire is a shield that pulls any outside interference to ground
Ah. Cool. Thanks.
Crank it Rich!
I have the exact same model but I had an bad o2 sensors on bank2 an replaced them but after I put it all back together it wouldnt start if you could help put thatd be great !
That's the engine speed sensor... failing...
It's better to get the kit to replace them...two camshafts And the speed sensor.
Nice work. Do you rember how you hook up the scoop for this one? Did you use one wire at the connector and one ground? I'm going to scoop a Audi tomorow, and I think it has the same sensor, but I miss some info about the sensor🤓
I was able to get a signal going on one wire and to a known good ground. I think I got lucky. You should go to the sensor and use the sensor wires
You will be able to get a signal but it will be elevated depending on the bias voltage. If it's this style it will be 3 wires sensor positive sensor negative and a shield
Positive Lead Diagnostics Thank you, I will give it a try😄
Let me know how it works out
I can't understand this😊 I don't get any signal on any of the wires. If I remove the shield wire, and connect my scoop to the sensor pin (where the wire is disconnected) and ground I have a strong signal. So when I connect the shield wire again, the signal is gone. Because it wil be shorted to ground... I think maybe the crank sensor is wrong. It has just been replaced. The car is a 95 Audi A8 4.2. Trouble code is: no signal from crank sensor and I have no spark and injoctor signal😰
Hey I have a similar problem on my 96 audi a4 afc 2.8, I drive it for few miles or various minutes and then it dies. I have no codes after that happened even I can get the scanner to have communication with the ecm. When I turn the key to the on I don't hear the fuel pump prime it cranks ok but I don't have power on fuses 28 29 34 which have power while running or on the prime with the fuel pump relay. Could it be the crank sensor bad?
It could be the crank sensor. Those fuses only receive power when the fuel pump relay is energized. Does the car usually start right back up? See if your missing spark and injector pulse when it won’t start. Or if you have access to a scope just monitor the crank sensor signal
@@PositiveLeadDiagnostics each morning it starts up quick and easy, when it dies it starts up again after a while, haven´t count the time but i guess just after the cks cools a bit. i´ll check for spark and injector pulse when won´t start. thanks for the help
btw good vid i´ll like you work on vw audi cars, i really like when you worked with mr. danner.
Just curious when you was unsure about your test light and the scope's ground why did you not just jump across to the battery ground post? I'm not digging you out about it I'm just curious. Cheers 👍🏻
Not sure. Probably because we were on the side of the road in rush hour traffic lol
Positive Lead Diagnostics ok thanks 👍🏻 I thought I might have been doing something wrong.
It's always important to test your equipment. If the battery is right there why not use it. I probably overlooked it In this one because at first I couldn't duplicate it. Then when it did happen it was at 5 o'clock on a Friday in the middle of the road lol
I have a same problem. I'll try to change the crank position sensor. Thanks.
and work?
Not yet. I think PCV valve is main problem.
@Sean. Laney My car is 2004 B5.5 V6 PASST. I fixed this problem. Main reason was 'Oil Cooler'. I changed head gasket, coolant temperature sensor, engine oil cooler. Now, I have no problem.
@@이정희-h2k How can it be oil cooler
Did u unhook the crank so if it was a hallefect unhooked should go to 5 right ???
Right. 5volt bias on a Hall effect signal wire. This vrf had two 2.5v bias on the positive and negative of the sensor
anything in the guided component test about the crank sensor?
yes there was great info there, I should have looked at that first, this vrs crank sensor had a 2.6v bias voltage on the ground side, if I would have looked up description and operation I wouldn't have scratched my head so much, but it makes for a good learning experience
They never act up until you drive them.😂
yeah tell me about it! traffic was ridiculous that day
check component test to see what kind of sensor it is.
Not a bad idea but sometimes that can get you in trouble if the wrong information is there. I have seen that
if I didn't get a volt signal what can it be?
Just a voltage reading with sensor unplugged key on? If there should be a bias voltage and you have nothing then possibly a wiring issue open or short. Or possibly an ecm issue
Positive Lead Diagnostics : I have a 2002 vw passat 1.8t awm auto. I bought the car and realized the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coils were not getting power. I checked fuse 29,32,34 and there's was no power. I can't for the life of me find the ECM relay. Your video helped a lot with testing for faulty crank sensor and that's when I realize that I also was not getting a voltage reference from the crank body harness. I also pulled a p0600 or also known as 18258-003- power data base ECU missing message.
Ricardo Remodeling ecm relay is in the under hood fuse box under the cowl panel driver side. I would also just take a test light and check all the fuses inside the drivers door. If those circuits are on the fuel pump relay you may have to have someone cranking when checking for power. Does the check engine light light up when the key is turned on?
Boss 🫡
What did you see on the scope that led you to your conclusion that the crank sensor was bad? Thanks!!!
When the car broke down we had no signal just the 2.6v on each wire
Why would the crank sensor work intermittently? In other words, why wouldn't it work when the engine is cool but not when it is hot?
nevermind
Hellow ! O from Brazil ! Do you can help me ? Do you have instagram ?