I use this quite a bit. It works great on tools you use and touch often, and reapply each time you use it. Its not great for long term sitting around. Its really great at keeping the fingerprint spots from appearing on planes and chisels though.
Thank you, James. Like you, I live in a humid environment, but my shop space and tools are in my garage. I worry about rust all the time. I have used a lot of 3 in 1, WD-40 and wax on my antique saws and planes. Some receive sparse use and I don't know they are rusty until I pull them down to use them. Aaauggh! I'm going to try a can of Stabile soon. :)
Thanks for this! I don't have major problems with rust, but the product I keep on hand for preventing it has been T-9. I guess I can toss that out if plain old WD-40 is better. A treatment John Heisz recommends is painting on water-based polyurethane and wiping it off while it's still wet.
i have always used the old white candle as a rust inhibitor and to give a good polished finish for metal surfaces. but then i am old and that was basically all we had back then. just rub the candle over the surface and then buff it out. takes a bit of elbow grease, but works great. my biggest problem with rust on tools is generally caused by sweat droplets to be honest.
I use yamaha silicone engine protectant spray on all my tools. Started using it on all my tools after using it for 25 years on all my outboard engines that run in saltwater and all have not one single spot of rust on any of them. Safe on hoses, rubber, electrical etc. Add that to your testing and you'll see its THE BEST! The wd40 rust protector would be similar but not quite as good. Yamahas patented formula is not wet and greasy after a couple hours of seeping into the metal.
This is a great test. I think the only way to improve it is to take the "winners" and repeat the test after rubbing some wood over the surface for awhile and seeing which rust preventers stay on after ware. Thanks for doing the hard work for all of us!
i bought a new chevy colorado zr2 sits in air a little i had it undercoated body wise but im in iowa they use alot of salt i wonder if before winter i can just spray the underneath of my truck all steel which most is painted like frame n shield to help prevent rust looks like sta bil is best
In Texas and my shop is does not have AC and it is very humid most of the year...fortunately my table saw is not outside in the rain. I was recently told T9 is great and it works but the wood does not slide as nicely as paste wax. I just put the T9 down and waited for it to dry and then added paste wax on top. I will have to try the Stabil next!
Great test James. Fortunately I don’t have to worry about rust where I live but this was helpful and I plan on picking up a can of STA-BIL Rust Stopper. Thanks.
I use a product by the name of Corrosion X which comes in several viscosities. It's not cheap but it works. And I live on the Texas coast which I think is where humidity was invented.
For in shop application, I use a car wax. I like Mothers Brazilian Carnauba cleaner wax. In my opinion it works very well. I’m sure there is better stuff then car wax. What I really like about car wax is no oily residue.
Using a salt spray test chamber (diy version instructions can be found online) is what the metal plating shop I used to work for used to determine how effective certain processes were at preventing rust.
I actually use a Molotow marker pen (empty) with a 15mm tip filled with 3-in-1 oil. And when I'm done with my tools, I just "draw" an even layer over anything that needs protection. Plane bodies, saws, knives, etc. I live not far off the Gulf Coast in Houston so humidity and rust protection is near vital for protecting my tools. I'd recommend giving it a try, it's very similar to Paul Sellers rag in a can, except the motolow pen is a lot finer and imo offers better pinpoint control. Edit: when I'm ready to use the tool again, I just take a shop towel and gently wipe off any excess as to prevent it from staining anything I'm working on
I just looked into the molotow pens, and now I want to get a whole set. My wife is an artist that might like them also. What I want to find out is if any of their products can be used to dispense glue, like their ball style applicator.
I bought some jojoba oil at the recommendation of a tool manufacturer. I don’t like that it gets sticky. I would like to know if it gives good protection.
Great video. When I first saw it in my feed, I thought it was a Project Farm video. Please test for any problems with wood contact, such as discoloration. Also please test for dust gathering/stickiness.
Yes, do further testing. In dry climates or dry shops rust prevention is no problem at least if the graying of cast iron is acceptable. Here lubrication is the chief reason for treating ferrous metals. Every ten or so years I buy the latest potion but they all sit barely used in the flammables cabinet. For lubrication wax paper is as good as anything partly because it is so easy to apply and never deposits an excess that could interfere with finishes. Why not see whether it offers significant rust prevention ?
Definitely do another test, but, since no one does, or should leave their tools out in the rain, the test should just allow for natural humidity to do its thing, so perhaps leaving the test subject outdoors for perhaps a month, but under an open cover where rain can not get to it.
Yeah, I was curious about that and the WD-40 specialist too. James, does the Union one feel oily afterward? If not, that might be pretty good. I also wonder if the two oily ones can stand up after use. Like if you wear through the oil film like you would from using your plane for 15 minutes, do they still work? Or would you have to reapply constantly?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Maybe add Jojoba or Camellia oil as well since Lie-Nielsen has recommended both of those on their planes. I think the main benefit to these is that they form a bit of a waxy coating and don't seem to interfere with finishes or rub off much on the wood.
Thank you for this video. I'm in central Florida and my shop is so humid. I've been using penetrating oil and it's just very messy. I think I'm going to order some sta-bil.
I also live in central Florida, and my garage is as drafty as it gets. I've been using Trewax brand paste wax for a couple of years and I really like it. I bought it after being disappointed with the Johnson and Johnson stuff - they changed their recipe or something and it just doesn't make the hard buffed shell that I expect. I think I'm also going to get the sta-bil for my yard tools and other stuff that doesn't touch finished wood. Good luck, fellow Floridaman!
If you going to do a second test I would recommend you pick up some CRC 3-36 it is some pretty great stuff. My jointer was by the garage door one day and got some rain on it and I just left it because I was curious how well it would keep the cast iron from rusting and there wasn't a spot of rust on the jointer when the water was gone the next day.
I second the second test with CRC 3-36! I've been using it, and I like it much better than T9 / paste wax / WD40 / etc. There's no annoying smell if you get the gallon jug and a small pump sprayer/oil can, and I find it much easier to apply for some reason. I haven't seen any signs of rust on my cast iron jointer / bandsaw / table saw / hand tools this year since I started using it here in NC.
I love how you showed any of the shortcomings and being upfront with the wood by Wright paste wax (Ps I love the paste wax it works really well for finishing) , especially since it is your product, thank you for sharing honest content with us. 🙏💪💪 Keep it up buddy 👌👌🙏🙏😎😎❤️
Good evaluation of name brand products. However, I live in southeast Florida and all I have to do is look at my tools and they rust and more than that, corrode. Salty, humid air. I love it, my tools don't. I finally got sick and tired of this, so I called up Starrett (sp?). Spoke with one of their techs. He said that their maritime customers recommend using petroleum jelly. Sounded good. So I went to BJs and bought a lifetime supply for $7. Slathered it on. No rust or corrosion. I just have to do it religiously. Unfortunately, some of my really nice tools have already gotten corrosion stains. But, live and learn.
Great test! Would love to see you test CRC-36 next go round. I've had better luck with that than boeshield, but I'm going to give the sta-bil a try and see how it compares.
Chris Gochnour did extensive test in FWW few years ago (don't remember the issue #) - CRC-36 was three heads above the competition. I use it for 2 years in my uninsulated garage on everything and there's zero rust.
In the UK there's a product "Supertrol" from Action Can. It is an aerosol which sits on the metal surface as a light wax, not quite drying out. It's really good for storage protection but too waxy to use on a tool you want to use and handle. Oddly the best thing I found for everyday protection from rust is baby oil! It's a pure mineral oil and ridiculously cheap as an own brand product. Far cheaper than 3 in 1 and very safe to use.
I've been trying Lee Valleys pure tung oil. You have to let it cure to form a longer lasting film. I like to seal with a light coat in all the nooks after a good de-greasing. It films and stays put. I maintain with a home made paste (wax/oil) or just liquid jojoba for contact surfaces where it will wipe off with use anyway. It has also been nice for tool/blade storage. Goes on liquid, but forms a wax like film. I have been using it on tools that touch my hands a lot as it is 100% pure Tung oil and not some (toxic???) mystery. Coconut oil/bees wax/coco butter blend or Fluid film for everything else. I would love to see how the Tung compares. I suspect that neither of these will WIN against Sta-Bil in the rain, but for indoor tools t has been good. A little off topic, I have been using strong home made KOMBUCHA TEA as RUST REMOVER. Just over ferment it in a 5 gal bucket. Way better than vinegar. Haven't tried the commercial stuff yet cause kombucha works pretty well and its so cheap to make.
The truth is this is not a good measure of moisture resistance because the rain probably did a lot of damage to each finish as opposed to air moisture... Would be nice to test that
Please test cast iron. I am thinking in particular of antique hand planes and plane irons. Also, the blades of antique handsaws. Really appreciate and enjoy your videos, especially your objectivity. Happy New Year! Stay safe!
I would LOVE to see how two old-timey tried and true methods hold up against the competition: A) forced patina (ie. vinegar soak). B) good ol’ mineral oil from the grocery store. Both are 100% non-toxic, won’t cause skin issues, food safe, etc. The patina also leaves absolutely no residue to get on your hands OR the wood.
I think it may also depend a lot on the use case, most tools inside aren't going to have standing water on them. And getting oil on things is its own problem.
I had a look over at what gun owners are using/testing (because firearms see a lot of abrasion and thermal cycling) and they had great results with "Frog Lube" which... is mostly coconut oil (of course not completely, but mostly). I looked at coconut oil (which is more a wax) and it would seem to be have the right qualities (on top of being food safe).
So great! Always feel more informed after your videos! … I’m also interested in cast iron / outdoor furniture stuff as others commented. And interested in protecting wood outdoor (finishes and paints)
I use camellia oil. Seems to work well at rust prevention and lubrication for hand planes. It is non-toxic, used in cosmetics, doesnt irritate skin,and doesn't contain petroleum based chemicals.
I use that also, and was going to suggest it, but I see you've beat me to it. I've also used Jojoba oil and would be interested in that. I don't have a rust problem in my shop, so either of those work well. Often wondered how they'd do in another environment.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , great! Love your channel! Also, this is the reference for how I started using it for everything (Step 9): www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
I've heard that fluid film is pretty amazing at rust prevention given that it's lanolin based. But then this means you also need to test if rubbing wood against the treated metal will effect how the wood absorbs finish. It doesn't matter if a product keeps my planes looking shiny and new if they also impart something onto the wood that ruins a finish.
You really should try corrosion x - we use it on our outboard engines in the saltwater of Gulf down in Texas - I use it on my planes in the hot humid texas environment-
Would you use any of this (specifically Sta-Bil) on a tool surface that's going to be coming into contact with unfinished wood? Table saw, jointer, hand plane, etc. My equipment is in a well maintained environment, so wax is good enough, I'm just curious. I may put some on the anvil that lives outside (just likely not the face).
Test idea: apply water gently with a water sprayer so large and heavy rain drops do not interfere with delicate protection film (i think t-9 and the elixir look a bit like they were washed away by the rain)
Do you have a steam box for wood bending? That might be a great way to test without needing to leave the steel outside. After all, it never rains in my shop 😉
James, I think you want to test ductile cast iron, not " ductile steel". And testing grey cast iron, of which most old Stanley's are made, would be very helpful. Also, testing in 90% humidity, non-condensing, environment would be more realistic. You may be able to borrow, or rent, a small chamber. Finally, I'd love to see how jojoba oil holds up.
What, no 3-in-1!? The T-9 doesn't surprise me. I'm in the south and my garage doesn't have any climate control so is around 80% humidity and surface of the sun all the time. T-9 was a huge disappointment. Right now I'm using 3-in-1 for frequently used items and thing I don't use often, like the #7, I buff on a harder paste wax I make. Seems to be working well so far. I would also be curious how a car wax would work. Both a cheaper one like Turtle and one of the fancier ones.
Except for the paste wax, all of these products appear to leave some type of oily residue. This could be a problem if used on tools that will be in contact with wood and could transfer the oil into the wood. Perhaps a test using dry lubes and similar products would be interesting.
Enjoyed the video James. Check out Highland Woodworkers new videos on rust removal and prevention. I know they are pushing products they sale. I appreciate your experiment and the time you put into producing the video. Ya'll l take care and God bless.
I don’t think leaving a flat surface out in the rain is that great of a test, at least not for hand tools. They usually rust due to being in high humidity, not direct water removing the product. Just put them in a sealed container (Tupperware or something) next to a container of water, that’s going to reproduce how most tools rust in my experience.
I live in a salty environment. If you send me your bridge city planes and a selection of your best chisels and maybe that pedal powered lathe I can test all of them for their ability to withstand rust. If you don't hear from me again after I receive the tools, please don't be concerned, it's probably just you imagining the worst. You can totally trust me. Although it does help if you pay for the shipping.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I am curious how much protection is provided by 3-In-One Oil applied with a Paul Sellers rag-in-a-can oiler.
I use this quite a bit. It works great on tools you use and touch often, and reapply each time you use it. Its not great for long term sitting around. Its really great at keeping the fingerprint spots from appearing on planes and chisels though.
Or the old BLO?
Thank you we moved to the coast and my tools are experiencing rust ❤
Thank you, James. Like you, I live in a humid environment, but my shop space and tools are in my garage. I worry about rust all the time. I have used a lot of 3 in 1, WD-40 and wax on my antique saws and planes. Some receive sparse use and I don't know they are rusty until I pull them down to use them. Aaauggh! I'm going to try a can of Stabile soon. :)
Thanks for this! I don't have major problems with rust, but the product I keep on hand for preventing it has been T-9. I guess I can toss that out if plain old WD-40 is better.
A treatment John Heisz recommends is painting on water-based polyurethane and wiping it off while it's still wet.
Thanks for the recommendation, as I really suffer with rust on my shed tools.
i have always used the old white candle as a rust inhibitor and to give a good polished finish for metal surfaces. but then i am old and that was basically all we had back then. just rub the candle over the surface and then buff it out. takes a bit of elbow grease, but works great. my biggest problem with rust on tools is generally caused by sweat droplets to be honest.
got to love some simple paraffin wax!
Did you try thining the candles with oil or turpentine so they are easier to apply and buff out?
I use yamaha silicone engine protectant spray on all my tools. Started using it on all my tools after using it for 25 years on all my outboard engines that run in saltwater and all have not one single spot of rust on any of them. Safe on hoses, rubber, electrical etc. Add that to your testing and you'll see its THE BEST! The wd40 rust protector would be similar but not quite as good. Yamahas patented formula is not wet and greasy after a couple hours of seeping into the metal.
This is a great test. I think the only way to improve it is to take the "winners" and repeat the test after rubbing some wood over the surface for awhile and seeing which rust preventers stay on after ware. Thanks for doing the hard work for all of us!
i bought a new chevy colorado zr2 sits in air a little i had it undercoated body wise but im in iowa they use alot of salt i wonder if before winter i can just spray the underneath of my truck all steel which most is painted like frame n shield to help prevent rust looks like sta bil is best
In Texas and my shop is does not have AC and it is very humid most of the year...fortunately my table saw is not outside in the rain. I was recently told T9 is great and it works but the wood does not slide as nicely as paste wax. I just put the T9 down and waited for it to dry and then added paste wax on top. I will have to try the Stabil next!
Common yard tools as test subjects, lawn mowers, bikes.
Thanks for sharing.
Great test James. Fortunately I don’t have to worry about rust where I live but this was helpful and I plan on picking up a can of STA-BIL Rust Stopper. Thanks.
I use a product by the name of Corrosion X which comes in several viscosities. It's not cheap but it works. And I live on the Texas coast which I think is where humidity was invented.
For in shop application, I use a car wax. I like Mothers Brazilian Carnauba cleaner wax. In my opinion it works very well. I’m sure there is better stuff then car wax. What I really like about car wax is no oily residue.
I put 3 in 1 oil on my bandsaw table....it seems to work well
I have used veggie oil for initial clean and restoration of iron and tools. I would love to see how kitchen oils would hold up.
So far no problems here in a slightly moist basement with coconut fat/oil.
Really appreciate your tests. Rust is a concern for all of us. Thanks
Using a salt spray test chamber (diy version instructions can be found online) is what the metal plating shop I used to work for used to determine how effective certain processes were at preventing rust.
I actually use a Molotow marker pen (empty) with a 15mm tip filled with 3-in-1 oil. And when I'm done with my tools, I just "draw" an even layer over anything that needs protection. Plane bodies, saws, knives, etc. I live not far off the Gulf Coast in Houston so humidity and rust protection is near vital for protecting my tools. I'd recommend giving it a try, it's very similar to Paul Sellers rag in a can, except the motolow pen is a lot finer and imo offers better pinpoint control.
Edit: when I'm ready to use the tool again, I just take a shop towel and gently wipe off any excess as to prevent it from staining anything I'm working on
Hey that's pretty clever! They should just make a version that comes in a felt pen style applicator.
I just looked into the molotow pens, and now I want to get a whole set. My wife is an artist that might like them also. What I want to find out is if any of their products can be used to dispense glue, like their ball style applicator.
I bought some jojoba oil at the recommendation of a tool manufacturer. I don’t like that it gets sticky. I would like to know if it gives good protection.
Great video. When I first saw it in my feed, I thought it was a Project Farm video.
Please test for any problems with wood contact, such as discoloration. Also please test for dust gathering/stickiness.
that is high on the list!
How about something of cold oxydation like on weapons if its not mentioned before - cold blue?
Love to see it after wiping the steel clean. i.e. like the bottom of a plane, table saw, etc.
Can I spray the WD40 on my shutters for storing?
Yes, do further testing. In dry climates or dry shops rust prevention is no problem at least if the graying of cast iron is acceptable. Here lubrication is the chief reason for treating ferrous metals. Every ten or so years I buy the latest potion but they all sit barely used in the flammables cabinet. For lubrication wax paper is as good as anything partly because it is so easy to apply and never deposits an excess that could interfere with finishes. Why not see whether it offers significant rust prevention ?
What about 3&1 oil?
Definitely do another test, but, since no one does, or should leave their tools out in the rain, the test should just allow for natural humidity to do its thing, so perhaps leaving the test subject outdoors for perhaps a month, but under an open cover where rain can not get to it.
I am going to do both next time and a few other tests. it will be interesting to see the difference.
If I used Sta-bil on my tools, would the oil residue rubbing off onto the wood end up interfering with finishing?
That is another thing I want to test.
Yeah, I was curious about that and the WD-40 specialist too. James, does the Union one feel oily afterward? If not, that might be pretty good. I also wonder if the two oily ones can stand up after use. Like if you wear through the oil film like you would from using your plane for 15 minutes, do they still work? Or would you have to reapply constantly?
the union does not feel oily, and that is the big thing they formulated it for is to not interfere with finish.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Maybe add Jojoba or Camellia oil as well since Lie-Nielsen has recommended both of those on their planes. I think the main benefit to these is that they form a bit of a waxy coating and don't seem to interfere with finishes or rub off much on the wood.
Which of the aerosol cans, except the WD-40, has least greasy feeling?
Thank you for this video. I'm in central Florida and my shop is so humid. I've been using penetrating oil and it's just very messy. I think I'm going to order some sta-bil.
I also live in central Florida, and my garage is as drafty as it gets. I've been using Trewax brand paste wax for a couple of years and I really like it. I bought it after being disappointed with the Johnson and Johnson stuff - they changed their recipe or something and it just doesn't make the hard buffed shell that I expect. I think I'm also going to get the sta-bil for my yard tools and other stuff that doesn't touch finished wood. Good luck, fellow Floridaman!
If you going to do a second test I would recommend you pick up some CRC 3-36 it is some pretty great stuff. My jointer was by the garage door one day and got some rain on it and I just left it because I was curious how well it would keep the cast iron from rusting and there wasn't a spot of rust on the jointer when the water was gone the next day.
I second the second test with CRC 3-36! I've been using it, and I like it much better than T9 / paste wax / WD40 / etc. There's no annoying smell if you get the gallon jug and a small pump sprayer/oil can, and I find it much easier to apply for some reason. I haven't seen any signs of rust on my cast iron jointer / bandsaw / table saw / hand tools this year since I started using it here in NC.
it is on the list for the next one!
I love how you showed any of the shortcomings and being upfront with the wood by Wright paste wax (Ps I love the paste wax it works really well for finishing) , especially since it is your product, thank you for sharing honest content with us. 🙏💪💪 Keep it up buddy 👌👌🙏🙏😎😎❤️
What about 3-in-1 with paste wax on top?
Good evaluation of name brand products. However, I live in southeast Florida and all I have to do is look at my tools and they rust and more than that, corrode. Salty, humid air. I love it, my tools don't.
I finally got sick and tired of this, so I called up Starrett (sp?). Spoke with one of their techs. He said that their maritime customers recommend using petroleum jelly. Sounded good. So I went to BJs and bought a lifetime supply for $7. Slathered it on. No rust or corrosion.
I just have to do it religiously. Unfortunately, some of my really nice tools have already gotten corrosion stains. But, live and learn.
I'll have to add it to the next list.
Great test! Would love to see you test CRC-36 next go round. I've had better luck with that than boeshield, but I'm going to give the sta-bil a try and see how it compares.
that is on the list for the next round!
Chris Gochnour did extensive test in FWW few years ago (don't remember the issue #) - CRC-36 was three heads above the competition. I use it for 2 years in my uninsulated garage on everything and there's zero rust.
Spit works better than T-9
In the UK there's a product "Supertrol" from Action Can. It is an aerosol which sits on the metal surface as a light wax, not quite drying out. It's really good for storage protection but too waxy to use on a tool you want to use and handle. Oddly the best thing I found for everyday protection from rust is baby oil! It's a pure mineral oil and ridiculously cheap as an own brand product. Far cheaper than 3 in 1 and very safe to use.
I went and looked for Supertrol I cant find a place that will sell it to me. they do not want to ship it internationally apparently.
What about cast iron?
I live in a hot humid... swamp. Thanks for the trial. I'm off to buy some Sta-Bil.
I've been trying Lee Valleys pure tung oil. You have to let it cure to form a longer lasting film. I like to seal with a light coat in all the nooks after a good de-greasing. It films and stays put. I maintain with a home made paste (wax/oil) or just liquid jojoba for contact surfaces where it will wipe off with use anyway. It has also been nice for tool/blade storage. Goes on liquid, but forms a wax like film. I have been using it on tools that touch my hands a lot as it is 100% pure Tung oil and not some (toxic???) mystery.
Coconut oil/bees wax/coco butter blend or Fluid film for everything else.
I would love to see how the Tung compares. I suspect that neither of these will WIN against Sta-Bil in the rain, but for indoor tools t has been good.
A little off topic, I have been using strong home made KOMBUCHA TEA as RUST REMOVER. Just over ferment it in a 5 gal bucket. Way better than vinegar. Haven't tried the commercial stuff yet cause kombucha works pretty well and its so cheap to make.
The truth is this is not a good measure of moisture resistance because the rain probably did a lot of damage to each finish as opposed to air moisture...
Would be nice to test that
I would agree that it doesn't rain very often inside most shops :). Maybe a sweaty finger print test would be a good alternative.
right on. that is why I want to do more!
Awesome video how can I apply the Sta bil to remove some rust and protect my power cage it has some rust on the rails and bolts
it wont remove rust. just protect for future.
Please test cast iron. I am thinking in particular of antique hand planes and plane irons. Also, the blades of antique handsaws.
Really appreciate and enjoy your videos, especially your objectivity.
Happy New Year! Stay safe!
Are any of these, or is there a rust preventer spray that is non-flammable? I have found this one, but don't know if it's good MC-300
Does STA-BIL rival Fluid Film? In Northern, Ontario Canada this is most popular product during the winter.
I’ve got both CRC 3-36 and CRC 3045
I added CRC 3-36 to the list
Camelia oil is often recommended to protect knife blades from corrosion. It's not very expensive and perfectly natural. Please add it to your tests.
it is on the list!
I would LOVE to see how two old-timey tried and true methods hold up against the competition:
A) forced patina (ie. vinegar soak).
B) good ol’ mineral oil from the grocery store.
Both are 100% non-toxic, won’t cause skin issues, food safe, etc. The patina also leaves absolutely no residue to get on your hands OR the wood.
I think it may also depend a lot on the use case, most tools inside aren't going to have standing water on them. And getting oil on things is its own problem.
I had a look over at what gun owners are using/testing (because firearms see a lot of abrasion and thermal cycling) and they had great results with "Frog Lube" which... is mostly coconut oil (of course not completely, but mostly).
I looked at coconut oil (which is more a wax) and it would seem to be have the right qualities (on top of being food safe).
Awesome testing, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Would love to see how these hold up over time when being handled. I’m also curious about some of the other products people have mentioned here.
So great! Always feel more informed after your videos! … I’m also interested in cast iron / outdoor furniture stuff as others commented. And interested in protecting wood outdoor (finishes and paints)
It would be nice to se how regular vegetable oil did,
looks like I'm adding some Stabil Rust stopper to my shopping list
Now that you have the samples applied, stick it back outside in the rain again and leave it for another two weeks.
Please try canola oil, motor oil, and/or clear coat paint
I use camellia oil. Seems to work well at rust prevention and lubrication for hand planes. It is non-toxic, used in cosmetics, doesnt irritate skin,and doesn't contain petroleum based chemicals.
I use that also, and was going to suggest it, but I see you've beat me to it. I've also used Jojoba oil and would be interested in that. I don't have a rust problem in my shop, so either of those work well. Often wondered how they'd do in another environment.
I will have to add it!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , great! Love your channel! Also, this is the reference for how I started using it for everything (Step 9):
www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
I've heard that fluid film is pretty amazing at rust prevention given that it's lanolin based. But then this means you also need to test if rubbing wood against the treated metal will effect how the wood absorbs finish. It doesn't matter if a product keeps my planes looking shiny and new if they also impart something onto the wood that ruins a finish.
It leaves a super oily? Greasy? Film behind
Why are most of your bench planes blue ?
The ones I restore for my personal use, if I strip the original japanning I paint them blue.
I saw two or three other people mention it already, but another vote for you to try Balistol and 3-in-1.
Renaissance wax would be good to try. Museums use it. Might seem expensive but seems to last an age!
that is on the list for the next round!
Would you put Stabil on your table saw top?
I use paste wax for mine. Also helps lubricate it nicely.
Anything that inhibits rust is a winner ...stay with it...
You really should try corrosion x - we use it on our outboard engines in the saltwater of Gulf down in Texas - I use it on my planes in the hot humid texas environment-
I will add it to the list!
I use it on my servos for rc planes especially the sea planes it’s awesome
Stabil vs Marine CRC rust inhibitor. Top 2 and also military cosmoline
Would you use any of this (specifically Sta-Bil) on a tool surface that's going to be coming into contact with unfinished wood? Table saw, jointer, hand plane, etc. My equipment is in a well maintained environment, so wax is good enough, I'm just curious. I may put some on the anvil that lives outside (just likely not the face).
that is something I want to test!
Do you have any plans on making a rest removal video?
I have a few videos on that for restoration, but I have not done a head to head comparison.
The RUclips channel Project Farm also did something on this. A very good comparison of you're looking for it
Test idea: apply water gently with a water sprayer so large and heavy rain drops do not interfere with delicate protection film (i think t-9 and the elixir look a bit like they were washed away by the rain)
Definitely helpful too! But I do a lot of outdoor furniture refurbishing and like the idea of direct rain test!
Would like to see 3 in 1, blo, shop made paste wax/hard wax options.
that is on the list for the next round!
I foresee a spreadsheet coming! :-)
You know it!
Evaluation with prices would have been cool
there is a whole spread sheet coming for this one!
Good comparison
Do you have a steam box for wood bending? That might be a great way to test without needing to leave the steel outside. After all, it never rains in my shop 😉
I'd like to see 3-in-1 oil and Houdini Lock Lubricant.
This topic is good on the "surface" but getting the "underlying" issue of moisture would be a good video too 😆 (all that for a joke)
Someday you might try my mutton tallow... classic and my favorite.
Thanks for your hard work
I use that and venison tallo for my wood plans. Great for lubricant.
thanks
Good one!
Maybe use the best and the worst as referances on the second video If you make it?
James, I think you want to test ductile cast iron, not " ductile steel". And testing grey cast iron, of which most old Stanley's are made, would be very helpful. Also, testing in 90% humidity, non-condensing, environment would be more realistic. You may be able to borrow, or rent, a small chamber. Finally, I'd love to see how jojoba oil holds up.
Good morning people!
Try camellia oil. It has centuries of use with Japanese swords etc and i use it on all my tools, planes and chisels.
I will add it to the list!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Nothing original from me as I picked up the trick from David Charlesworth.
Impressive. Thank you
Best oil stain removers!
Great video, Thanks!
Fluid Film, wool wax formula. powerful rust and corrosion protection. just bought it. smell weird and i wonder how it would compete.
Good morning!
Good morning and congratulations on first.
Try CRC3-36 in the next test.
that is on the list for the next round!
Whiskys & rum!
thank you
I prefer paint, if not then WD 40. That's just my opinion, I rust my case.
What, no 3-in-1!?
The T-9 doesn't surprise me. I'm in the south and my garage doesn't have any climate control so is around 80% humidity and surface of the sun all the time. T-9 was a huge disappointment. Right now I'm using 3-in-1 for frequently used items and thing I don't use often, like the #7, I buff on a harder paste wax I make. Seems to be working well so far.
I would also be curious how a car wax would work. Both a cheaper one like Turtle and one of the fancier ones.
that will be on the bigger test.
T-9 is expensive snake oil. I can’t understand why people think it works.
Prediction at the beginning: the mystery product is BLO. Edit: Aw, nuts.
L
try Balistol
I only have a few planes so it wouldn't be a good sample size for testing, "glances back at a wall covered in planes"
LOL I only have two made of ductile steel.
Except for the paste wax, all of these products appear to leave some type of oily residue. This could be a problem if used on tools that will be in contact with wood and could transfer the oil into the wood. Perhaps a test using dry lubes and similar products would be interesting.
Enjoyed the video James. Check out Highland Woodworkers new videos on rust removal and prevention. I know they are pushing products they sale. I appreciate your experiment and the time you put into producing the video. Ya'll l take care and God bless.
I don’t think leaving a flat surface out in the rain is that great of a test, at least not for hand tools. They usually rust due to being in high humidity, not direct water removing the product. Just put them in a sealed container (Tupperware or something) next to a container of water, that’s going to reproduce how most tools rust in my experience.
I live in a salty environment. If you send me your bridge city planes and a selection of your best chisels and maybe that pedal powered lathe I can test all of them for their ability to withstand rust. If you don't hear from me again after I receive the tools, please don't be concerned, it's probably just you imagining the worst. You can totally trust me. Although it does help if you pay for the shipping.