I like mine!!!! I used it on fieldday. Need to adjust to the middle of band. It was well tuned to the lower portion of the bands. Seems really well made I left it in the backyard for about a month and other than tree sap seemed yo surve just fine. Love the way the balun is integrated into the winder.
Great video...this seems to be an excellent antenna for both home and portable us. I almost thought the reel was from my old fly casting days. Thanks for reviewing this antenna. Aloha de Russ (KH6JRM).
I notice it does not come with a counterpoise or a lug to add one, clearly expecting the feed line to double as counterpoise. I wonder if that accounts for the slightly high SWR?
I think you could be correct. I may have to add a choke to the feed line and clip a counterpoise to the ground side of the feed point connection to see if that makes a difference.
Michael, thanks again for doing the review on my antenna. During the last 2 years of developing this antenna I’ve set it up variations of it over a hundred times and sometimes using a 1:1 choke would bring down the swr sometimes not. I think it has a lot to do with the ground conditions. I never had any good results using just a counterpoise which is why there is no provision for attaching one. About using a choke I recommend putting a piece of coax maybe 7 ft long then the choke. Once again thanks for the review. Mike kd9obf I do make a Random Wire Antenna with a 71 ft long wire, no capacitor. It has a 9:1 balun using the same toroid. It comes with a 20 ft counterpoise which connects to the housing via a 2 mm banana plug. You do have to have a 1:1 choke and a good tuner to use it.
Get too carried away with the counterpoise and it's no longer an end fed halfwave, it's an off-centre fed doublet. ☺️ Truth is, it's never going to be a perfect HW, which on paper doesn't require a counterpoise.
Thanks for the review. FYI that Fair-Rite 2643251002 core close wound with a 100 pf TDK capacitor, as tested by Colin, MM0OPX Field Radio, and others is very efficient, more so than the 140-43 core 49:1 xfmr's. And handles 100 watts better, without saturation. 73 mike
Thank goodness you responded fast to Larry - F5PYI. If you don't he will continually call out his call without a care about overstepping - rude even. Had it happen to me twice and couple of friends. A thorn in the POTA World in my mind.
According to the law of physics, an inductor creates a magnetic field around itself. The magnetic field dampens all impulse interference around itself (coming from household appliances and passing vehicles). Therefore, an antenna with an inductor is the best antenna in urban conditions. On the other hand, the inductive and capacitive resistance of antennas is many times worse than the purely active ohmic resistance of the antenna at the resonant frequency. Therefore, it turns out that in urban conditions, the best antenna is a vertical antenna with an inductor, which can be tuned to different frequency ranges.
I recently discovered a dip in the VSWR plot of my Flatlander 4010 reel up EFHW, which unexpectedly puts the entire 160-meter band under 3:1 VSWR. With my G-90, I'm making mid-summer "late shift" POTA contacts on 160-meters with this 66' wire. I'm pleasantly perplexed. 🤫 KZ9V
There are a couple different methods in winding a 49:1 transformer. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, which I won't go into great detail here. The Flatlander EFHW uses the Autotransformer method, instead of the more familiar 14 primary and 2 secondary turns with the crossover in the middle, the turns are all bunched together with primary and secondary taps in the line of the turns. This method results in more capacitance which cancels out leakage inductance, thereby making the transformer a bit more efficient. This method only works with certain types of ferrite cores, though, so it isn't ideal for every design, but it is a good choice for the core used in this antenna. Here's more background information: www.kn5l.net/kn5lEfhwUnun/
I probably should have clarified in the video but an end fed half wave (EFHW) is always a resonant half wave antenna. A non resonant end fed antenna is referred to as either an end fed random wire or an end fed non resonant antenna. Because a non resonant antenna will not be a half wave on any frequency, you really can’t call it a non resonant EFHW. This antenna is a resonant EFHW.
The antenna is in a sloper configuration, the peak at about 35-40 feet and the transformation at about five feet. The black stealth wire doesn't photograph well, so it is really hard to see on the video.
Mike does a really good job listing all the technical details of his antenna in the instructions. You can read them here: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7hmjt9vs7vki8s3dd1soy/FlatLanders2643251002Antenna.pdf?rlkey=3zzekqeny17glzktyw1wf1bet&dl=0
The antenna doesn't come with a counterpoise. Some feel that a counterpoise is important and other feel it isn't necessary. If you don't have a counterpoise, one risk is that the feed line braid starts to act as your counter poise. If you feel that is an issue, you can add a counterpoise to the antenna and choke off the feed line.
@@randomcrap763@KB9VBRAntennas on paper an EFHW doesn't need one, as both "sides" of the antenna are present on each half of the single wire. But of course in practice there's always an imbalance... I never worry about it in the field, but at the home QTH I imagine you'd want a choke or something to make sure you don't get RF where you don't want it!
An 80 meter end fed half wave is a very long antenna (twice the length of one that does 40 meter). What I do when I want to work 80m as part of a POTA activation is instead use an end fed random wire (non-resonant) antenna. You need to use a tuner with them, but the radiator is only 71 feet long, which is much more manageable.
Don't see the convenience of a reel antenna because you have to unwind it first on the ground to deploy it. That would become a caught up mess on the ground cover in my environment. The cranking spool is too small making it really low geared too. Cant beat winding light weight antennas on finger and thumb figure of 8 from my experience.
Have a helper hold it, or cut something like a short piece of 2x4, cut out a round in it the shape of the real. Maybe put two eyelets on the 2x4 to put a short bungie cord over the spool to hold it on the 2x4 while you unspool it.
I like mine!!!! I used it on fieldday. Need to adjust to the middle of band. It was well tuned to the lower portion of the bands. Seems really well made I left it in the backyard for about a month and other than tree sap seemed yo surve just fine. Love the way the balun is integrated into the winder.
I have one and works well. Ham radio dude got one and he added a ground lug
It wouldn’t be difficult to add a counterpoise if you wanted it
Thank you Michael. Love your activations. Keep them coming.
I have this antenna and love it for POTA. So easy and quick to deploy. A ground lug option would be nice, as would a smaller 40-10 option.
Thanks for finally getting me in the log. Glad I didn't sound like a Goober. John KF5PFP.
Great video...this seems to be an excellent antenna for both home and portable us. I almost thought the reel was from my old fly casting days. Thanks for reviewing this antenna. Aloha de Russ (KH6JRM).
Excellent presentation!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I don't watch other online reviews until after I have finished mine, but yours is excellent too!
I notice it does not come with a counterpoise or a lug to add one, clearly expecting the feed line to double as counterpoise. I wonder if that accounts for the slightly high SWR?
I think you could be correct. I may have to add a choke to the feed line and clip a counterpoise to the ground side of the feed point connection to see if that makes a difference.
Michael, thanks again for doing the review on my antenna. During the last 2 years of developing this antenna I’ve set it up variations of it over a hundred times and sometimes using a 1:1 choke would bring down the swr sometimes not. I think it has a lot to do with the ground conditions. I never had any good results using just a counterpoise which is why there is no provision for attaching one. About using a choke I recommend putting a piece of coax maybe 7 ft long then the choke.
Once again thanks for the review.
Mike kd9obf
I do make a Random Wire Antenna with a 71 ft long wire, no capacitor. It has a 9:1 balun using the same toroid. It comes with a 20 ft counterpoise which connects to the housing via a 2 mm banana plug. You do have to have a 1:1 choke and a good tuner to use it.
It was just a little long.
Get too carried away with the counterpoise and it's no longer an end fed halfwave, it's an off-centre fed doublet. ☺️ Truth is, it's never going to be a perfect HW, which on paper doesn't require a counterpoise.
I really like my X-Tenna EFHW, but I might have to check this one out for the portability alone. Pretty smart design.
Thanks for the review. FYI that Fair-Rite 2643251002 core close wound with a 100 pf TDK capacitor, as tested by Colin, MM0OPX Field Radio, and others is very efficient, more so than the 140-43 core 49:1 xfmr's. And handles 100 watts better, without saturation.
73 mike
Hey great QSO Tuesday
AL7NS
Thank goodness you responded fast to Larry - F5PYI. If you don't he will continually call out his call without a care about overstepping - rude even. Had it happen to me twice and couple of friends. A thorn in the POTA World in my mind.
Love your videos Sir.
According to the law of physics, an inductor creates a magnetic field around itself. The magnetic field dampens all impulse interference around itself (coming from household appliances and passing vehicles). Therefore, an antenna with an inductor is the best antenna in urban conditions. On the other hand, the inductive and capacitive resistance of antennas is many times worse than the purely active ohmic resistance of the antenna at the resonant frequency. Therefore, it turns out that in urban conditions, the best antenna is a vertical antenna with an inductor, which can be tuned to different frequency ranges.
I recently discovered a dip in the VSWR plot of my Flatlander 4010 reel up EFHW, which unexpectedly puts the entire 160-meter band under 3:1 VSWR. With my G-90, I'm making mid-summer "late shift" POTA contacts on 160-meters with this 66' wire. I'm pleasantly perplexed. 🤫
KZ9V
I'm not an expert, but all other 49:1 un-uns I have seen have a double winding on the 2 turn portion. I did not see that on this one. Did I miss it?
There are a couple different methods in winding a 49:1 transformer. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, which I won't go into great detail here. The Flatlander EFHW uses the Autotransformer method, instead of the more familiar 14 primary and 2 secondary turns with the crossover in the middle, the turns are all bunched together with primary and secondary taps in the line of the turns. This method results in more capacitance which cancels out leakage inductance, thereby making the transformer a bit more efficient. This method only works with certain types of ferrite cores, though, so it isn't ideal for every design, but it is a good choice for the core used in this antenna. Here's more background information: www.kn5l.net/kn5lEfhwUnun/
@@KB9VBRAntennas Fantastic! Thank you very much for the link. I will absolutely check it out. Always trying to learn. :)
Mike: Enjoyed the video. BTW, what rig and headset are u using?
I use a Yaesu FT-891 transceiver and the Heil BM-17 dual side headset.
Sorry if I missed this, but is this a resonate EFHW or non-resonate EFHW antenna? Thanks for the review Michael- Phil KZ4JK
I probably should have clarified in the video but an end fed half wave (EFHW) is always a resonant half wave antenna. A non resonant end fed antenna is referred to as either an end fed random wire or an end fed non resonant antenna. Because a non resonant antenna will not be a half wave on any frequency, you really can’t call it a non resonant EFHW. This antenna is a resonant EFHW.
Great video, Michael! I could not tell from the video how you had it configured, was it a straight vertical or a sloper? K9HCA
The antenna is in a sloper configuration, the peak at about 35-40 feet and the transformation at about five feet. The black stealth wire doesn't photograph well, so it is really hard to see on the video.
Too bad the wire windup mechanism doesn't wind like a fishing reel. It's backwards and cumbersome I see.
String it all the way out and rewind on the reel in the opposite direction - problem solved.
Would like to find the values for the parallel capacitor/resistor?
Mike does a really good job listing all the technical details of his antenna in the instructions. You can read them here: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7hmjt9vs7vki8s3dd1soy/FlatLanders2643251002Antenna.pdf?rlkey=3zzekqeny17glzktyw1wf1bet&dl=0
It uses lossy resistance.
Does this antenna need a counterpoise?
The antenna doesn't come with a counterpoise. Some feel that a counterpoise is important and other feel it isn't necessary. If you don't have a counterpoise, one risk is that the feed line braid starts to act as your counter poise. If you feel that is an issue, you can add a counterpoise to the antenna and choke off the feed line.
@@KB9VBRAntennas Thanks! I'm still confused on this whole "When is a counterpooise or radial needed" thing LOL :) 73!!
@@randomcrap763@KB9VBRAntennas on paper an EFHW doesn't need one, as both "sides" of the antenna are present on each half of the single wire. But of course in practice there's always an imbalance... I never worry about it in the field, but at the home QTH I imagine you'd want a choke or something to make sure you don't get RF where you don't want it!
If it would to 80 meters, it would be great.
An 80 meter end fed half wave is a very long antenna (twice the length of one that does 40 meter). What I do when I want to work 80m as part of a POTA activation is instead use an end fed random wire (non-resonant) antenna. You need to use a tuner with them, but the radiator is only 71 feet long, which is much more manageable.
@@KB9VBRAntennas i would use the wolf river coil for 80 10.
Don't see the convenience of a reel antenna because you have to unwind it first on the ground to deploy it. That would become a caught up mess on the ground cover in my environment. The cranking spool is too small making it really low geared too. Cant beat winding light weight antennas on finger and thumb figure of 8 from my experience.
Have a helper hold it, or cut something like a short piece of 2x4, cut out a round in it the shape of the real. Maybe put two eyelets on the 2x4 to put a short bungie cord over the spool to hold it on the 2x4 while you unspool it.
It can probably be 3d printed and reverse engineered easily, given the simplicity of the design.
Why go through all that trouble when it’s easier to support the creator.
Agreed 👍💯.
@@KB9VBRAntennas couldn’t agree more. I think my time is worth more!
Again these are modified antennas from the original yoyo vee antenna
I'm not sure of your point, as this is nothing like the yo-yo vee, other than using a reel mechanism for storage.
Stupid sexy Flatlanders... ⛷️
(Relax, it's a Simpsons reference!) 😂
Looks like a great POTA tool! Great video, as always, Michael! 👍🏻
We say the same thing when they invade up-north Wisconsin.
inferior copy of the Eclise Antenna.
Never heard of that antenna, so I can't say.