Thank you for the video! I have a 2014 Sedona and had the same problem. I had an extra connector because of the auto close button and another screw under a cap but other than that it was same as your video to get back cover off. Take care.
November 25, 2023... 2011 Kia Sedona (manual liftgate)... Thanks for saving us, a bunch of money. Ours didn't die, but the arm (to the electronics) got "over extended" backwards. Pulled all coverings off; flipped the arm back in proper place. Flipped the metal lock mechanism to open position. Tested. Fixed!
Thank you this was so helpful, Mine was locked and couldn't get open and someone in the comments had same issue so between the two of you I was able to fix Kia Grand Carnival for $119 Aussie - I took a bit longer than you but so happy with result!
Thank you. I also have a 2012 Sedona and mine was stuck in the locked position. Using your video I was able to get enough of the panel loose so I could reach in and move the mechanism to the unlocked position and now the door can be opened. Thanks to you supplying the part number I can now order the correct part. Thanks again.
Awesome! So glad it helped. Also, thanks for replying to another commenter on this post who had the same problem as you with the door stuck in the locked position. Great to know!!! Thanks!
Thanks Chris! After watching your video a few times, it gave me the confidence to do this job myself, and it ended up being pretty easy, thanks to your video. I got the replacement part from eBay (Australia) for my Kia Carnival 2011, cost me $135 AUD. Appreciate your time and effort in creating the video!
Hey Chris; thanks - this looks helpful, maybe even hopeful. I have a 2012 with the tailgate locked in the closed position - (all FOB controlled like the doors) no 'normal' or manual way to open it to get at the panels that need to be removed as you are demonstrating. Not sure if I can DIY fix it with a shop's help. UGH. The local KIA dealer wanted $400 just for the labor. YIKES. Also, I may have ordered the wrong 'latch' assembly part anyway. Double UGH.
If you read @nhrider88 comment (from 1 month ago) on my video, you'll find that they WERE able to get enough of the panel loose from the inside while the back door was locked closed in order to reach in and unlock it. If you have questions, you might reach out to them and ask more questions. You would start with removing the trim around the window which you should be able to do with the door closed, and then remove whatever connectors you can. I would imagine at some point you might be able to spring it open enough to reach in and unlock it. I haven't done it myself though. Good luck!
We finally got the part and installed it easily just as your video instructed. There were no surprises. One thing to note: Before we noticed that the back hatch was not locking, we noticed that when shifting into drive or reverse the auto lock would click four times instead of just once. By replacing this part, that issue was also fixed. Thanks again.
@@cbirchtube I got the panel out and the wreckers installed a good activator. It took them only like 15 minutes, not having to take the trim off but they at least knew how to test it while everything was off.
Thanks! I want to confirm if it’s the same problem as mine. My trunk door also doesn’t lock when I lock the vehicle with the key (I only lock my car with the key, it doesn’t have central locking). But there is an additional symptom I wanted to check if you also have. When I shift from P to any other gear (R or D), the car makes 3 clicks, as if it’s trying to lock itself 3 times. Could it be the same problem?
@@mumo1993 yes, now that you mention it that was happening on my Kia. It would like try 3 times before giving up. And also the key in the driver door should lock all doors but was not locking the hatch. I’m not saying it couldn’t be something else, but sounds very familiar. Are both your side door locks working with the driver door switch? I had both issues on mine, and I guess in my head I was thinking the retry-3-times was related to the side door. But it certainly could have been the hatch, or both/either. Good luck!
Definitely very helpful! But, you failed to mention the screw in the bottom corner hidden behind a little cap. I'm not sure if you had already removed that or just ripped it through..
Thanks for the feedback. I am not aware of any other screws that I encountered on my particular van. There were caps on either side of the handle which I found, but I'm not sure where else. To help others who might watch this, can you be more specific as to where you found an additional screw under a cap? And are you able to see the cap on my van at some time offset into the video?
How did you determine that this was the issue rather than a door unlock/lock relay fuse issue (or some other fuse!)? Ours is stuck in the lock position so just trying to rule out simplest solutions first! Thank you!!
Well, I didn’t know for sure. I’m sure I did rule out fuses. And I’ve already replaced the solenoid in a side door and knew this was a common problem for this vehicle. If you remove the panel, you could measure the voltage going to the solenoid. It should register voltage when you try to lock/unlock. Of course, you’d have to get it unlocked first. Another commenter removed enough of the panels with the hatch closed that they were able to reach inside and unlock the door hatch. Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the video. What were the symptoms you were having? Mine makes a very strange buzzing noise as it operates. It still works but I’m pretty sure it’s on its way out. Unfortunately it actuates every time the car is put into drive or park and the sound is very annoying.
Mine didn’t make any noise. It was just totally dead. It would not lock; nothing would happen with the rear hatch when clicking the “lock” button on the inside driver door.
Sadly, I don’t know. I had wondered the same thing; if the door gets stuck closed, you can’t remove the panel to access the intervals. There must be some trick though.
From the inside, remove the top piece, remove the two side pieces, remove the top screws for the large panel and remove the two screws behind the light lens. The large panel can then be opened enough so you, can reach in and move the mechanism to the unlock position.
Thank you for the video! I have a 2014 Sedona and had the same problem. I had an extra connector because of the auto close button and another screw under a cap but other than that it was same as your video to get back cover off. Take care.
Thanks, glad you found it helpful. :)
November 25, 2023... 2011 Kia Sedona (manual liftgate)...
Thanks for saving us, a bunch of money. Ours didn't die, but the arm (to the electronics) got "over extended" backwards. Pulled all coverings off; flipped the arm back in proper place. Flipped the metal lock mechanism to open position. Tested. Fixed!
Awesome! Glad this helped. :)
Thank you this was so helpful, Mine was locked and couldn't get open and someone in the comments had same issue so between the two of you I was able to fix Kia Grand Carnival for $119 Aussie - I took a bit longer than you but so happy with result!
So glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing. :)
Thank you. I also have a 2012 Sedona and mine was stuck in the locked position. Using your video I was able to get enough of the panel loose so I could reach in and move the mechanism to the unlocked position and now the door can be opened. Thanks to you supplying the part number I can now order the correct part. Thanks again.
Awesome! So glad it helped. Also, thanks for replying to another commenter on this post who had the same problem as you with the door stuck in the locked position. Great to know!!! Thanks!
Same issue! I was able to fix it also, thanks to this video :)
How did you get the panel loose in the locked position?
@@OddManMC From inside, I was able to get the panel off the tail gate enough to reach in and release the locking mechanism
Absolute god send video. 🙏🏻
I'm so pleased that you found it helpful.
Thanks Chris! After watching your video a few times, it gave me the confidence to do this job myself, and it ended up being pretty easy, thanks to your video. I got the replacement part from eBay (Australia) for my Kia Carnival 2011, cost me $135 AUD. Appreciate your time and effort in creating the video!
Good job! Thanks for the feedback. I’m so glad it was helpful.
Hey Chris; thanks - this looks helpful, maybe even hopeful.
I have a 2012 with the tailgate locked in the closed position - (all FOB controlled like the doors) no 'normal' or manual way to open it to get at the panels that need to be removed as you are demonstrating. Not sure if I can DIY fix it with a shop's help. UGH. The local KIA dealer wanted $400 just for the labor. YIKES.
Also, I may have ordered the wrong 'latch' assembly part anyway. Double UGH.
If you read @nhrider88 comment (from 1 month ago) on my video, you'll find that they WERE able to get enough of the panel loose from the inside while the back door was locked closed in order to reach in and unlock it. If you have questions, you might reach out to them and ask more questions. You would start with removing the trim around the window which you should be able to do with the door closed, and then remove whatever connectors you can. I would imagine at some point you might be able to spring it open enough to reach in and unlock it. I haven't done it myself though. Good luck!
thank you very much for all of your effort! you probably saved me at least $1000.00 !!!!!
So glad it helped you!
Thank you. I have a 2011 sedona. I'm going to check it out. My guess is it's the same
Thank you. Excellent video.
@@johnkast7987 You are welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful. :)
We finally got the part and installed it easily just as your video instructed. There were no surprises. One thing to note: Before we noticed that the back hatch was not locking, we noticed that when shifting into drive or reverse the auto lock would click four times instead of just once. By replacing this part, that issue was also fixed. Thanks again.
Thanks! Great video it will save me loads of time and frustration.
Fantastic. So glad you found it helpful! :)
Many thanks for this!
@@VictorDucco You are welcome. Glad it was helpful. :)
@@cbirchtube I got the panel out and the wreckers installed a good activator. It took them only like 15 minutes, not having to take the trim off but they at least knew how to test it while everything was off.
Very useful video- thanks!
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for commenting. :)
Thanks! I want to confirm if it’s the same problem as mine. My trunk door also doesn’t lock when I lock the vehicle with the key (I only lock my car with the key, it doesn’t have central locking). But there is an additional symptom I wanted to check if you also have. When I shift from P to any other gear (R or D), the car makes 3 clicks, as if it’s trying to lock itself 3 times. Could it be the same problem?
@@mumo1993 yes, now that you mention it that was happening on my Kia. It would like try 3 times before giving up. And also the key in the driver door should lock all doors but was not locking the hatch. I’m not saying it couldn’t be something else, but sounds very familiar. Are both your side door locks working with the driver door switch? I had both issues on mine, and I guess in my head I was thinking the retry-3-times was related to the side door. But it certainly could have been the hatch, or both/either. Good luck!
Yes. In my case are both side doors lock working. But not the hatch. Im sure it should be same problem than you. I’ll Try and let you know !
Definitely very helpful! But, you failed to mention the screw in the bottom corner hidden behind a little cap. I'm not sure if you had already removed that or just ripped it through..
Thanks for the feedback. I am not aware of any other screws that I encountered on my particular van. There were caps on either side of the handle which I found, but I'm not sure where else. To help others who might watch this, can you be more specific as to where you found an additional screw under a cap? And are you able to see the cap on my van at some time offset into the video?
@@cbirchtubeI wish I knew how to paste a picture. it can first be seen at 7:36 when you remove the large piece of trim... middle left of the video.
How did you determine that this was the issue rather than a door unlock/lock relay fuse issue (or some other fuse!)? Ours is stuck in the lock position so just trying to rule out simplest solutions first! Thank you!!
Well, I didn’t know for sure. I’m sure I did rule out fuses. And I’ve already replaced the solenoid in a side door and knew this was a common problem for this vehicle. If you remove the panel, you could measure the voltage going to the solenoid. It should register voltage when you try to lock/unlock. Of course, you’d have to get it unlocked first. Another commenter removed enough of the panels with the hatch closed that they were able to reach inside and unlock the door hatch. Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the video. What were the symptoms you were having? Mine makes a very strange buzzing noise as it operates. It still works but I’m pretty sure it’s on its way out. Unfortunately it actuates every time the car is put into drive or park and the sound is very annoying.
Mine didn’t make any noise. It was just totally dead. It would not lock; nothing would happen with the rear hatch when clicking the “lock” button on the inside driver door.
Do you have a video if the trunk door doesn’t open at all?
No I don’t, one commenter was able to remove enough of the panel with the rear hatch closed to reach inside and unlock the hatch.
Does yours have a rear camera? If so how does it look for ease of replacing?
No it doesn’t. Sorry. However, everything seems quite exposed with the panel off, so I’d guess it would be pretty easy.
@@cbirchtube thanks for uploading because its still useful for taking off panels for my particular issue.
I have similar problem , And I can figure it out how to open door when damaged in lock position , How you open the door to fix it .. ?
Sadly, I don’t know. I had wondered the same thing; if the door gets stuck closed, you can’t remove the panel to access the intervals. There must be some trick though.
From the inside, remove the top piece, remove the two side pieces, remove the top screws for the large panel and remove the two screws behind the light lens. The large panel can then be opened enough so you, can reach in and move the mechanism to the unlock position.
This works!
Huh?@@nhrider88
I ordered the part number you said and it doesn’t fit
I am not an expert on parts. The part I ordered fit my 2012 Kia Sedona and I found it from parts diagram. I wonder if you might have a different year?