This is pretty cool, I"ve been wanting to make something like this for a while, this inspires me a lot. Great Job. You have obviously put a lot of thought into how to accurately cut so many small pieces.
So many genius moves here Steve - microscope ... screw adjusting ... plastic and rubber band clamping; very good tips I can borrow? So wonderfully conceived and executed but way above my pay grade. Maybe I could adapt it to a router table setup. If you don't know already, wood turners are enamored with segmented turnings so they might be adapting your genius moves !! I was beginning to worry when you mentioned live centers but that went away when you turned with cups, whew. My goodness, all the pieces you showcased were beauties Steve. And two as lidded boxes yet. Stay safe. -Mike
Yes, I had the segmented turners in mind with this. I used to do some segmented turning myself. I am branching out with my pattern business. There will be more of them soon. Yeah, I decided turning between cup centers would be better. I didn't notice them slipping until I was editing the video. You can borrow the ideas, that's why I made the video.
Always nice to see a new vid Steve. It must be noce to have invented a new art form that didnt exisist until you thought of it :). I'd still have a wonky line though!!!
Wow! Enjoyed watching your vid. As a suggestion for improvement, I like the technique for laying the tape, adhesive side up, doubling and sticking ends to the table. Doing this allows me to tight fit my pieces more accurately before glue-up. Hope this makes sense.
I think I see what you're saying. You're suggesting placing a long strip of tape sticky side up on table with ends secured to table, and laying the polygons on the tape so one strip fastens several joints?
@@Steve.Garrison Yep. You only have to maneuver one wood piece into alignment with another rather than the tape and two wood pieces all at the same time.
@@allanwolfe6071 , thanks. The truncated icosahedron would be a good one to do that way since the net can be made to have the faces roll up like a cylinder with one long piece of tape around the equator. I used that net in my Instructable, but not when I was putting it together in the video. www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Truncated-Icosahedron-Out-of-Wood/
What polyhedron would you like to see patterns for? Download the instructions for free at www.spiralsbysteve.com/precision-polygon-jig.php I also have a pattern available for the larger 120-sided polyhedron shown. ruclips.net/video/EEMnF87B-x8/видео.html
Is it better to have a small or large blade? Small blades are cheaper, so you can be sure to have a sharp blade. Large blades have more teeth and can cut more on the down stroke, so the cut can be smoother. Two tips: First, you waste a lot of electricity starting up the saw, so you could add extra clamps to the sled. Then you can line up and align multiple pieces and then cut all at once, with barely more energy than cutting one. Second, add a scrap piece of wood near the blade, beside the aluminum, that sticks out 1/8" or so, that way if during your adjusting, you get too close to the blade, the wood will be cut before you hit the metal, saving your blade. You are my favorite "Steve" and that includes myself.
Hi Steve, thanks! You just about have to use a full size blade because the bottom of the wood you are cutting is about an inch above the table on the sled - then on top of that the bevel angle eats up some of the thickness capacity. You can only cut one piece at a time because the adjustable sled removes the alignment error to make the pattern line parallel and two pieces in a row will need different adjustments to make parallel. Finally if you accidentally hit the blade with the aluminum it will probably be okay, that's why I use aluminum instead of steel. I do like to use the 7 1/4" blades whenever I can, but the maximum blade height is only 1 5/8" as opposed to 3" on my saw. You're right about the saw using a lot of electricity, I have to run my dust collector on a different circuit so I don't pop a breaker.
You are on a different level...... There is no other youtuber on your wavelength of woodworking!
Thanks, I do like to be unique.
Nice work Steve, makes me feel good , watching you thinking it through then telling your hands to do it.
Good work!
Thanks! You should try it. :)
Very nice,this winter it would be a good challenge.
This is pretty cool, I"ve been wanting to make something like this for a while, this inspires me a lot. Great Job. You have obviously put a lot of thought into how to accurately cut so many small pieces.
Thank you, Patrick! Yes, the parts are rather small and very precise.
Awesome project!
Thank you!
So many genius moves here Steve - microscope ... screw adjusting ... plastic and rubber band clamping; very good tips I can borrow? So wonderfully conceived and executed but way above my pay grade. Maybe I could adapt it to a router table setup. If you don't know already, wood turners are enamored with segmented turnings so they might be adapting your genius moves !! I was beginning to worry when you mentioned live centers but that went away when you turned with cups, whew. My goodness, all the pieces you showcased were beauties Steve. And two as lidded boxes yet. Stay safe. -Mike
Yes, I had the segmented turners in mind with this. I used to do some segmented turning myself. I am branching out with my pattern business. There will be more of them soon. Yeah, I decided turning between cup centers would be better. I didn't notice them slipping until I was editing the video. You can borrow the ideas, that's why I made the video.
yes saw this before but brilliant job well done nice video
Thanks!
Always nice to see a new vid Steve. It must be noce to have invented a new art form that didnt exisist until you thought of it :). I'd still have a wonky line though!!!
Thanks, Shaun. I'll have to try engraving one of these days, it looks fun. My lines would be wonky though.
@@Steve.Garrison you would make an interesting homemade hand engraving machine and some cool designs no doubt bro🙂
Woah!!!! Two of my favorite you toobers!!!!
Thank you Steve!
You're welcome mellisb.
How did you calculate the angles needed for the pieces?
I didn't have to calculate it, found it with google.
How did you determine the bevelled angles for particular pentagons & hezagons?
I use a program called Great Stella.
Wow! Enjoyed watching your vid. As a suggestion for improvement, I like the technique for laying the tape, adhesive side up, doubling and sticking ends to the table. Doing this allows me to tight fit my pieces more accurately before glue-up. Hope this makes sense.
I think I see what you're saying. You're suggesting placing a long strip of tape sticky side up on table with ends secured to table, and laying the polygons on the tape so one strip fastens several joints?
@@Steve.Garrison Yep. You only have to maneuver one wood piece into alignment with another rather than the tape and two wood pieces all at the same time.
@@allanwolfe6071 , thanks. The truncated icosahedron would be a good one to do that way since the net can be made to have the faces roll up like a cylinder with one long piece of tape around the equator. I used that net in my Instructable, but not when I was putting it together in the video. www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Truncated-Icosahedron-Out-of-Wood/
I like this wooden football.
Thanks!
What is the maths to work out what angle the cuts should be at?
hello how many degrees are the edges cut?
www.instructables.com/Make-a-Truncated-Icosahedron-Out-of-Wood/
Precioso increíble genial felicitaciones desde Argentina
Thank you
What polyhedron would you like to see patterns for?
Download the instructions for free at www.spiralsbysteve.com/precision-polygon-jig.php I also have a pattern available for the larger 120-sided polyhedron shown. ruclips.net/video/EEMnF87B-x8/видео.html
كم هي زاويه القطع للحواف
It's all in here: www.instructables.com/Make-a-Truncated-Icosahedron-Out-of-Wood/
awesome ! You will offer the soccer ball to Daisy !
LOL Daisy is more interested in things she can sink her claws into, but I won't be surprised when it ends up under a piece of furniture. Thanks!
U rule!!! Gotta find a way to get a macro scope. Where theres a will theres a way. .
The microscope makes all the difference.
Thanks!
Is it better to have a small or large blade? Small blades are cheaper, so you can be sure to have a sharp blade. Large blades have more teeth and can cut more on the down stroke, so the cut can be smoother.
Two tips: First, you waste a lot of electricity starting up the saw, so you could add extra clamps to the sled. Then you can line up and align multiple pieces and then cut all at once, with barely more energy than cutting one.
Second, add a scrap piece of wood near the blade, beside the aluminum, that sticks out 1/8" or so, that way if during your adjusting, you get too close to the blade, the wood will be cut before you hit the metal, saving your blade.
You are my favorite "Steve" and that includes myself.
Hi Steve, thanks! You just about have to use a full size blade because the bottom of the wood you are cutting is about an inch above the table on the sled - then on top of that the bevel angle eats up some of the thickness capacity. You can only cut one piece at a time because the adjustable sled removes the alignment error to make the pattern line parallel and two pieces in a row will need different adjustments to make parallel. Finally if you accidentally hit the blade with the aluminum it will probably be okay, that's why I use aluminum instead of steel.
I do like to use the 7 1/4" blades whenever I can, but the maximum blade height is only 1 5/8" as opposed to 3" on my saw. You're right about the saw using a lot of electricity, I have to run my dust collector on a different circuit so I don't pop a breaker.
💯💢