Note: I had a comment, why did I use a 5.2 mm drill for the pilot hole ? I could have used a 5 mm in this situation with little risk of breaking the tap, provided it was sharp and made of HSS. There is nothing worse than snapping a small tap in a job. The chart I use is slightly more forgiving than some and less likely to bind the tap. Carbon taps will snap in the blink of an eye, while HSS will spring and give you warning that things are too tight. Tap charts vary quite a bit on % of thread depth and pilot hole size. Much of this comes down to the hardness of the material they are intended for. My motto has always been, if in doubt go slightly larger with the pilot hole and avoid pain. For soft material like cast iron you can generally go 80+%, but for hard and stainless steel it can be as low as 50% thread depth. Charts should list the %, but not all do. I hope this helps. Cheers Rob
Excellent idea Rob. I have the same vice on my milling machine. The problem I had was the handle hanging down in front of the Mills Y- axis handle. So I made a little speed handle using a half inch drive socket. It's also much quicker to rotate the vice jaws. Take care Rob Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. Everyone's different in how they use things, so do whatever floats your boat best :) I have always used a sliding handle or similar, so this is what I'm used to. A detent would be better, but this works OK. cheers Rob
Hi Rob I purchased one of these shortly after your video on them. Brilliant vice for the money. Very well made, but as you stated, oh the burrs. Nice mod I will be doing the same.
I have one of these too, they are great value. I removed that handle on mine and modded a spare crank handle I had after a mini lathe upgrade. Found the small round crank easier to use and keeps out of the way
Great vise and amazing quality for the money. I'm used to a long handle, so this works fine for me. I do have a part finished ally crank handle for a mini lathe laying around that I could use in a similar fashion to you. Interesting. I may have to look into it. Cheers Rob
I use exact the same vise on my shaper and it works perfectly fine. I had to replace the T-bolts because they are junk. But for the price I payed for the thing, it's still a fair deal.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't use the "T" bolts so I can't comment. Overall it's amazing value. Nothing else comes close for the dollars. Cheers Rob
I swapped out my handle for a 3/8 socket which I bonded on with hot glue,and use a small breaker arm to drive it which can still be removed when needed.
I often use lube when tappingg cast iron, as it does make it easier, and you do get a better thread, especially in the more odd alloys you get. Also have tapped a forged socket, so it would stay on the adaptor no matter what. After all it is the only 3/4 drive unit I have, so making it always 1/2 drive and losing that extra slop was well worth it, especially as I needed to accurately measure angle on it, as it was used to adjust a belleville spring that applied preload to a clutch pack. New clutches were still made from asbestos, had a few made up with wet milling them at the local brake rebuilder, using some of the asbestos sheet he used to rebuild old Bedford drum brakes. Cleaned the old ones with a gas torch till cherry red, to burn oil contaminating them off, but they eventually did crack.
I was taught to machine cast iron dry as it is self lubricating to some degree (contains graphite) and makes a mess with lube. So I do the same for tapping. Do whatever works best for you. One thing I do make sure of with cast iron is to aim for a very high thread interference (90% +) as thread strength is less than steel, so fit is more important. I had some ancient lawn mower clutch faces relined at a local brake engineering shop and they did a good job. I think the originals were rivetted on from memory, but they replaced them with bonded, and it worked well. I went there for large diameter machining jobs, but unfortunately they closed down after many years. Pity. Cheers Rob
What method do you use to clamp the vice to the table? I have the AXMINSTER PROFESSIONAL AP700PD drill press, and always find that that the grooves in the table to accept bolts are NEVER where you need them :(
I've used a number of two bolt vises on this pillar drill table and never had an issue with drill alignment. Mine has 6 radial slots in the table for through bolts, while the Axminster only has 4, but that shouldn't make a huge difference. The Axminster appears to have a rotating table, so I don't see why you have an issue. Cheers Rob
A round table on a pillar drill can be rotated both on the drilling face and the pillar, so once the vice is bolted down any position of centre can still be got at.Much better than fixed square ones.
The drill/thread chart I use says 5.2 mm for an M6. That is at 75% thread depth/engagement like most charts. Eg. www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/metric-tap-drill-size.aspx
@@Xynudu That's the first chart I've personally seen that shows anything other then 5mm for a 6mm tap, I've never ever heard of using any other method apart from subtracting the pitch from the diameter to calculate drilling size, I'd be curious to know why this chart shows a larger drill size or why 75% is used rather then the usual 100%?
Nice idea, hate lose handles. As just a thought, there appears to be just enough room to have put in a ball detent. To start, drill in a hole that is big enough to let some of the edge of the ball through, but too small to let it all the way through. Then using that same drill, drill detent depressions into the lead screw on all 6 positions. The next step would be to drill for the ball pass size, bringing it down to the edge of the previous hole. Then tap for a plug on the top. Assemble the ball, a spring and the plug. Then the handle will in effect snap onto the lead screw, but can be removed if it is in the way or is in a position where it loosens the vice.
Yes, all do-able. I did consider doing this, but there was no point as I always leave the handle on. I would have simply turned a groove in the screw shaft to locate the ball detent in any position. Cheers Rob
Note: I had a comment, why did I use a 5.2 mm drill for the pilot hole ? I could have used a 5 mm in this situation with little risk of breaking the tap, provided it was sharp and made of HSS. There is nothing worse than snapping a small tap in a job. The chart I use is slightly more forgiving than some and less likely to bind the tap. Carbon taps will snap in the blink of an eye, while HSS will spring and give you warning that things are too tight.
Tap charts vary quite a bit on % of thread depth and pilot hole size. Much of this comes down to the hardness of the material they are intended for. My motto has always been, if in doubt go slightly larger with the pilot hole and avoid pain. For soft material like cast iron you can generally go 80+%, but for hard and stainless steel it can be as low as 50% thread depth. Charts should list the %, but not all do. I hope this helps. Cheers Rob
Nice one. That's a lot safer as well Rob. It prevents the handle from vibrating off. Cheers, Tony.
Yes Tony. Then I'd have to find where it had gone. Probably the most inacessable place in the shop. That's usually how it works ;) Cheers Rob
Excellent idea Rob. I have the same vice on my milling machine. The problem I had was the handle hanging down in front of the Mills Y- axis handle. So I made a little speed handle using a half inch drive socket. It's also much quicker to rotate the vice jaws. Take care Rob Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. Everyone's different in how they use things, so do whatever floats your boat best :) I have always used a sliding handle or similar, so this is what I'm used to. A detent would be better, but this works OK. cheers Rob
Hi Rob
I purchased one of these shortly after your video on them. Brilliant vice for the money. Very well made, but as you stated, oh the
burrs. Nice mod I will be doing the same.
Great to hear Tracey !
I have one of these too, they are great value. I removed that handle on mine and modded a spare crank handle I had after a mini lathe upgrade. Found the small round crank easier to use and keeps out of the way
Great vise and amazing quality for the money. I'm used to a long handle, so this works fine for me. I do have a part finished ally crank handle for a mini lathe laying around that I could use in a similar fashion to you. Interesting. I may have to look into it. Cheers Rob
Nice work Rob. Another issue solvered.....
very nice addition for a drill press vice , I want to look into getting one of those !
Hi Shawn. Nice unit, especially for the money. This size fits the pillar drill nicely. A four inch might also be suitable. Cheers Rob
I use exact the same vise on my shaper and it works perfectly fine. I had to replace the T-bolts because they are junk. But for the price I payed for the thing, it's still a fair deal.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't use the "T" bolts so I can't comment. Overall it's amazing value. Nothing else comes close for the dollars. Cheers Rob
Nice one Rob 👍 Sometimes the simplest mods can be the most effective. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan. That's about as simple as it gets. Still worth a video I guess ;) Cheers Rob
Nice Job 👍 Rob. Nice Easy Mod.
As simple as it gets Wayne. Cheers Rob
I swapped out my handle for a 3/8 socket which I bonded on with hot glue,and use a small breaker arm to drive it which can still be removed when needed.
I often use lube when tappingg cast iron, as it does make it easier, and you do get a better thread, especially in the more odd alloys you get. Also have tapped a forged socket, so it would stay on the adaptor no matter what. After all it is the only 3/4 drive unit I have, so making it always 1/2 drive and losing that extra slop was well worth it, especially as I needed to accurately measure angle on it, as it was used to adjust a belleville spring that applied preload to a clutch pack. New clutches were still made from asbestos, had a few made up with wet milling them at the local brake rebuilder, using some of the asbestos sheet he used to rebuild old Bedford drum brakes. Cleaned the old ones with a gas torch till cherry red, to burn oil contaminating them off, but they eventually did crack.
I was taught to machine cast iron dry as it is self lubricating to some degree (contains graphite) and makes a mess with lube. So I do the same for tapping. Do whatever works best for you. One thing I do make sure of with cast iron is to aim for a very high thread interference (90% +) as thread strength is less than steel, so fit is more important. I had some ancient lawn mower clutch faces relined at a local brake engineering shop and they did a good job. I think the originals were rivetted on from memory, but they replaced them with bonded, and it worked well. I went there for large diameter machining jobs, but unfortunately they closed down after many years. Pity. Cheers Rob
Nice.
Great info..👍
Thanks 👍
very nice what was the Allen screw size ,length and thread pitch I have one these vises and I love it
Same as the grub screw in the end float adjuster collar. M6 x 1 diam/pitch x 5 mm long.
@@Xynudu thanks for the info
What method do you use to clamp the vice to the table? I have the AXMINSTER PROFESSIONAL AP700PD drill press, and always find that that the grooves in the table to accept bolts are NEVER where you need them :(
I've used a number of two bolt vises on this pillar drill table and never had an issue with drill alignment. Mine has 6 radial slots in the table for through bolts, while the Axminster only has 4, but that shouldn't make a huge difference. The Axminster appears to have a rotating table, so I don't see why you have an issue. Cheers Rob
A round table on a pillar drill can be rotated both on the drilling face and the pillar, so once the vice is bolted down any position of centre can still be got at.Much better than fixed square ones.
Why a 5.2mm hole for a M6 thread instead of a 5mm hole?
The drill/thread chart I use says 5.2 mm for an M6. That is at 75% thread depth/engagement like most charts.
Eg. www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/metric-tap-drill-size.aspx
@@Xynudu it was always 5mm when I did my trade and is according to the charts I use as it’s m6x1 makes it 5mm….
www.aimsindustrial.com.au/assets/files/Sutton-Tools-Tapping-Drill-Size-Chart.pdf
Use which ever thread chart floats your boat. I see Sutton don't quote a depth %, so it may be absolute.
@@Xynudu That's the first chart I've personally seen that shows anything other then 5mm for a 6mm tap, I've never ever heard of using any other method apart from subtracting the pitch from the diameter to calculate drilling size, I'd be curious to know why this chart shows a larger drill size or why 75% is used rather then the usual 100%?
Nice idea, hate lose handles.
As just a thought, there appears to be just enough room to have put in a ball detent. To start, drill in a hole that is big enough to let some of the edge of the ball through, but too small to let it all the way through. Then using that same drill, drill detent depressions into the lead screw on all 6 positions. The next step would be to drill for the ball pass size, bringing it down to the edge of the previous hole. Then tap for a plug on the top. Assemble the ball, a spring and the plug. Then the handle will in effect snap onto the lead screw, but can be removed if it is in the way or is in a position where it loosens the vice.
Yes, all do-able. I did consider doing this, but there was no point as I always leave the handle on. I would have simply turned a groove in the screw shaft to locate the ball detent in any position. Cheers Rob