I use the sandwich bag trick too. I don't pre-cut the hole and just push the shaft through the bag to get a better seal. Taping it up is a nice trick too.
I’ve done that in the past as well just shove the shaft through the bag but lately I’ve just been cutting a small little hole and the shaft is still a perfect fit, but I tape it up just to be extra sure as well as if I push it through the bag I still tape it.
Thanks for the reference video Jeff! I have watched every build that you have put out and myself too am also passionate about taking my time to do things right as you do. My first SAB arrived 30min ago. Genesis Mini build starts next. So looking forward to it, it really is the icing on the cake to be a SAB when I wrap up the six birds in six months goal I made when I started this hobby back in July! Oh, Tron got back to me on the Gemini with 6 defects; I gave them pictures of the razorblade cuts, crooked decals and gashes in the blade grip to prove it. I was cordial and left a path to resolution open ended (meaning I made no demands, just asked them consider an amiable path forward). They will replace the defective parts; but first I get to disassemble my bird and mail the parts to them...then they will mail me the replacements so I can reassemble and maiden. Poke me in the eye six times, then poke me again making me tear it down and head to post office just to make make me wait weeks or more of time and resources holding my breath for the parts to arrive. All so I can rebuild again before I finally get to maiden it. I would have accepted even a bare minimal apology and just sighed, replacing parts or even coupon discount on next kit would have been cool enough. But telling me to first tear it down and mail it in to them before sending parts back. Grounding me for weeks or more on top of it all? Get wrecked! Burnt to ash, buyer beware. I'll still fly it, but I aint taking this lying down either. I intend to present this thing with the razor blade markings, slanted decals, misaligned lettering and gashing in the metal as a live advertisement at every event with a Tron booth and RC club I visit. Fanbois if you made it this far and feel knighthood welling up within you; go buy two more Trons, please I beg you to throw down with your wallets. Because if I get at least one person to pause and choose another brand...I broke even and you need to make up for it!
So in my personal opinion, bashing a brand or steering people away from them because of some defects in the kit is not the right way to do it. I’ve been in this hobby. A very long time, I remember the days were you would have to modify frame sides, drill, your own holes, sand, etc., we have it so lucky for the quality fit and finish that we have in the kits today. Helicopters were just as expensive 20+ years ago as they are now. You get so much more for your money than you ever have. I get having issues or defects in the kit, but almost every company out there makes it right. Then wanting you to send the parts back is because they get burned so many times by everybody complaining about the littlest thing, causing them to spend more money out of pocket for things that are a problem. Not saying you don’t have problems just saying that’s why they ask you to send the parts back. I have built quite a few Tron helicopters now and they are right up there with SAB as far as fit and finish as well as build quality. You got to remember these things are mass produced! You cannot expect absolute perfection. Having little blemishes or issues is something you will have to learn to get used to especially being in the hobby. Even SAB has their issues. My goblin has a nick in the canopy and a couple marks in the boom. But I understand how the machining and marketing as well as production works with these guys so that little stuff doesn’t bother me. Now, if I have parts that don’t fit or absolutely destroyed out of the box that is a completely different story, but some cosmetic issues unless it’s terrible I do not worry about just keep that in mind Before steering people away from any brand. I doubt you’ll ever find one that is absolutely perfect, but you’ll find them very close! Also, remember, you might think these companies make a ton of money off of these kits but they really don’t. The profit margin on helicopter kits is extremely small and most companies only do it because of their love for the hobby not because it makes them money money to be made, that’s why all these companies manufacture other things which makes them the money in the helicopter side. It’s just for fun or their love of the hobby. That’s just my opinion and two cents. I am no way affiliated with any brand and it doesn’t matter to me what anybody flies as long as you’re flying. That’s just my opinion on that topic.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 That's thoughtful and I get your view; points for you trying to keep professional about it, I dont have a bridge to burn...they already did that. I also sent them pictures zoomed in so it was clear that their Quality control as the ones who cut it up then put the overcoat spray anyways after crooked work. A couple defects meh, 4 ok what? But 6, no that's just no. I was amiable and totally willing to sort it out with them....even if just a minimal effort on their part to make it right. But telling me to go pound sand by grounding myself a cycle while they get around to it, no. Tron already has a villain origin story enough as it is. Now this business practice. Yeah they blew it.
@@mykel1969 that’s not the kitchen counter lol that’s my charge counter. I have a metal cabinet with a solid granite top. Perfect for charging battery’s and cutting shafts lol
'simple' 😂😭 I remember spending 3 hours one night trying to cut a motor shaft using a sawzall, pliers, and lock cutters. Everything just slipped right off and didn't even scratch the shaft. I was convinced the shaft was made of diamond. Do you mind linking the Dremel and cutting bit you have?
Cut off wheel is the best way to cut the shads as you get a clean and precise cut. You could do a sawzall or a hacksaw, but that would take forever lol so the Dremel I use is over 10+ years older than no longer available, but any Dremel will work. I have the cut off wheels linked in the video description.
Great tips, as always from you, Jeff! I have a question about Xnova motors. I have them in both my SAB 580 and RS7 with Hobbywing ESCs. Both of them are “stock timing” I have the new program box for them. I think they are 20 or 25 degrees? Do you have any recommendation of what timing to run? Both of them (the motors) get warm, sometimes the SAB gets pretty warm to the touch. I run both helis around 2100-2250 head speed. Both of my ESCs are hardly ever warm, however. Thanks!
@@snickerbar12 Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. So Hobbywing default is 25 degrees. I think it’s a little high and I normally run them at 15 degrees but I have run 25 degrees and nerve been an issue. But you will find Xnova is the coolest running motors on the market. What matters is actually temperature as to hot to touch can still be fine. You don’t want to get hotter then 220 degrees before it starts to be come a problem. I found a normal setup like the ILgoblin Pro, running a Hobbywing 260, Xnova 4530 525kv and stock gearing on 12s, running 2300 RPM, inland around 150 degrees on a hot day. Get your self a cheap temp gun and use that to get accurate temperature readings.
@ awesome, thank you, thank you! I figured the stock setting was on the high end and never really looked into it too much. Now that I’m really getting into harder 3D, want to keep everything running as best as possible! Thanks again for always helping!
@ so I just talked to Xnova to confirm what I said on timing. Jin, owner of Xnova said 15 degrees is all you want to run on a 40xx and 45xx series motors.
I use the sandwich bag trick too. I don't pre-cut the hole and just push the shaft through the bag to get a better seal. Taping it up is a nice trick too.
I’ve done that in the past as well just shove the shaft through the bag but lately I’ve just been cutting a small little hole and the shaft is still a perfect fit, but I tape it up just to be extra sure as well as if I push it through the bag I still tape it.
Thanks for the reference video Jeff! I have watched every build that you have put out and myself too am also passionate about taking my time to do things right as you do. My first SAB arrived 30min ago. Genesis Mini build starts next. So looking forward to it, it really is the icing on the cake to be a SAB when I wrap up the six birds in six months goal I made when I started this hobby back in July!
Oh, Tron got back to me on the Gemini with 6 defects; I gave them pictures of the razorblade cuts, crooked decals and gashes in the blade grip to prove it. I was cordial and left a path to resolution open ended (meaning I made no demands, just asked them consider an amiable path forward).
They will replace the defective parts; but first I get to disassemble my bird and mail the parts to them...then they will mail me the replacements so I can reassemble and maiden. Poke me in the eye six times, then poke me again making me tear it down and head to post office just to make make me wait weeks or more of time and resources holding my breath for the parts to arrive. All so I can rebuild again before I finally get to maiden it. I would have accepted even a bare minimal apology and just sighed, replacing parts or even coupon discount on next kit would have been cool enough. But telling me to first tear it down and mail it in to them before sending parts back.
Grounding me for weeks or more on top of it all? Get wrecked!
Burnt to ash, buyer beware. I'll still fly it, but I aint taking this lying down either.
I intend to present this thing with the razor blade markings, slanted decals, misaligned lettering and gashing in the metal as a live advertisement at every event with a Tron booth and RC club I visit. Fanbois if you made it this far and feel knighthood welling up within you; go buy two more Trons, please I beg you to throw down with your wallets. Because if I get at least one person to pause and choose another brand...I broke even and you need to make up for it!
So in my personal opinion, bashing a brand or steering people away from them because of some defects in the kit is not the right way to do it. I’ve been in this hobby. A very long time, I remember the days were you would have to modify frame sides, drill, your own holes, sand, etc., we have it so lucky for the quality fit and finish that we have in the kits today. Helicopters were just as expensive 20+ years ago as they are now. You get so much more for your money than you ever have. I get having issues or defects in the kit, but almost every company out there makes it right. Then wanting you to send the parts back is because they get burned so many times by everybody complaining about the littlest thing, causing them to spend more money out of pocket for things that are a problem. Not saying you don’t have problems just saying that’s why they ask you to send the parts back. I have built quite a few Tron helicopters now and they are right up there with SAB as far as fit and finish as well as build quality. You got to remember these things are mass produced! You cannot expect absolute perfection. Having little blemishes or issues is something you will have to learn to get used to especially being in the hobby. Even SAB has their issues. My goblin has a nick in the canopy and a couple marks in the boom. But I understand how the machining and marketing as well as production works with these guys so that little stuff doesn’t bother me. Now, if I have parts that don’t fit or absolutely destroyed out of the box that is a completely different story, but some cosmetic issues unless it’s terrible I do not worry about just keep that in mind Before steering people away from any brand. I doubt you’ll ever find one that is absolutely perfect, but you’ll find them very close! Also, remember, you might think these companies make a ton of money off of these kits but they really don’t. The profit margin on helicopter kits is extremely small and most companies only do it because of their love for the hobby not because it makes them money money to be made, that’s why all these companies manufacture other things which makes them the money in the helicopter side. It’s just for fun or their love of the hobby. That’s just my opinion and two cents. I am no way affiliated with any brand and it doesn’t matter to me what anybody flies as long as you’re flying. That’s just my opinion on that topic.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 That's thoughtful and I get your view; points for you trying to keep professional about it, I dont have a bridge to burn...they already did that.
I also sent them pictures zoomed in so it was clear that their Quality control as the ones who cut it up then put the overcoat spray anyways after crooked work. A couple defects meh, 4 ok what? But 6, no that's just no. I was amiable and totally willing to sort it out with them....even if just a minimal effort on their part to make it right.
But telling me to go pound sand by grounding myself a cycle while they get around to it, no. Tron already has a villain origin story enough as it is. Now this business practice. Yeah they blew it.
As a thank you for all your help you do for everyone! Also, for my degree of timing question!
@@snickerbar12 Thank you! I greatly appreciate the support! You are awesome!
Excellent tips, as always. Thank you...
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it, I’m glad to share these tips and I hope they help
Thanks
Thank you! I greatly appreciate all the support!
Hi, Jeff. Very useful video, thanks
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it!
maaaan, I hope your wife doesn't walk in while your doing that on the kitchen counter LOL
@@mykel1969 that’s not the kitchen counter lol that’s my charge counter. I have a metal cabinet with a solid granite top. Perfect for charging battery’s and cutting shafts lol
'simple' 😂😭
I remember spending 3 hours one night trying to cut a motor shaft using a sawzall, pliers, and lock cutters.
Everything just slipped right off and didn't even scratch the shaft.
I was convinced the shaft was made of diamond.
Do you mind linking the Dremel and cutting bit you have?
Cut off wheel is the best way to cut the shads as you get a clean and precise cut. You could do a sawzall or a hacksaw, but that would take forever lol so the Dremel I use is over 10+ years older than no longer available, but any Dremel will work. I have the cut off wheels linked in the video description.
Could have warned us we needed safety glasses, haha
As always, first and last....😅😅😅
Safety is third and optional lol but yes, you need to wear safety glasses!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 😂😁
Great tips, as always from you, Jeff! I have a question about Xnova motors. I have them in both my SAB 580 and RS7 with Hobbywing ESCs. Both of them are “stock timing” I have the new program box for them. I think they are 20 or 25 degrees? Do you have any recommendation of what timing to run? Both of them (the motors) get warm, sometimes the SAB gets pretty warm to the touch. I run both helis around 2100-2250 head speed. Both of my ESCs are hardly ever warm, however. Thanks!
@@snickerbar12 Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. So Hobbywing default is 25 degrees. I think it’s a little high and I normally run them at 15 degrees but I have run 25 degrees and nerve been an issue. But you will find Xnova is the coolest running motors on the market. What matters is actually temperature as to hot to touch can still be fine. You don’t want to get hotter then 220 degrees before it starts to be come a problem. I found a normal setup like the ILgoblin Pro, running a Hobbywing 260, Xnova 4530 525kv and stock gearing on 12s, running 2300 RPM, inland around 150 degrees on a hot day. Get your self a cheap temp gun and use that to get accurate temperature readings.
@ awesome, thank you, thank you! I figured the stock setting was on the high end and never really looked into it too much. Now that I’m really getting into harder 3D, want to keep everything running as best as possible! Thanks again for always helping!
@ so I just talked to Xnova to confirm what I said on timing. Jin, owner of Xnova said 15 degrees is all you want to run on a 40xx and 45xx series motors.
@@westhobbiesrc8051thank you so much! Greatly appreciate it. I will get them changed and see how they do!