I took stones and petrol and shook them around for like an hour.. it really cleaned the rust!! Then pool acid for about 1hour. The tank looked super clear after that! Dried it and then bought a 2part epoxy mix and re lined the inside. Stuff really worked!!! Tank is still clean inside! Took pump apart and cleaned. Sent injectors to me mate for sonic cleaning and now the bike runs like a dream!
I recommend to always fill your tank and add some fuel treatment for extended storage. This will mean less of the metal surface is exposed to the air and will be less likely to rust while your bike sits for long periods like the winter. So many bikes not just Suzuki's have this problem after they sit. BTW that sensor you installed for water temp was actually the air temp sensor that goes into the air box from the looks of it.
I had these exact symptoms on my ZZR from not using it often. I used some redline fuel cleaner and it now runs perfectly. No cutting out while riding anymore and starts first time. I hated the way it just cut out while riding out of a busy junction. It was embarrassing and dangerous. My bike is older (94) yet no signs of rust in the tank yet. really strange to see it was rust on a more modern and well looked after Hayabusa🤔 I don’t even keep mine garaged all year round and I bet yours is.
Because alcohol in gasoline attracks watermolecules. And gastanks are not treated on the inside. After derusting the gastank I used a product that leaves a rustproof layer inside the tank. It's a 2K compound liquid.
Absolute ace buddy, I have done every fix you did and nothing, the one thing that is one of the least expected... I will try this right after this weekends storm.... thank you...
Had an old 1981 cb900 custom that was stripped of its fairings and had beautiful paint job. Kind of looked like a nice kz1000. (naked style bike). I purchased at a very low price due to the same problem yours had. Rust in tank. I done a similar rust eating treatment and added see thru inline fuel filter. made for a nice dependable city cruiser after that. Had five gears with a high and low so it was more or less a ten speed which was great for highway but then I missed the fairing from wind fatigue.
Boys and Girls this is why you always do a fuel pump PSI and fuel flow test before and after replacing. had a very similar issue on my GSX-R rust destroyed my fuel pumps seals replaced the pump and cleaned tank but the injectors were still dirty spent 3 months chasing the problem. :D
Only thing I can add to this, if you have a rusted tank, and use a rust treatment to remove the rust, do yourself a favour and get a ceramic coating treatment for the tank as well. I had the same issues on a GSX 650F when I first started out riding, did the rust treatment, removed the rust, but 6 months later it was starting to come back. Did the treatment again, but this time also did the ceramic coating inside, and never had an issue from that moment on.
Great i go, bit mine, idle is so rich and some times die.....over 1200rpm, no bike can catch me, non stop rising RPM's , on high rpms run beautiful......hello from Florida, USA.
thats usually how you fix things unless you are a technician. wait i forgot its youtube you prolly are a technician with thousands of dollars worth of diagnostic equipment.
I had the same symptoms with my 1999 and it was the supply fuel line between the tank and the pump being kinked. Replace the hose and make sure it isn't kinked when putting the tank down.
gsx1400 missing out slowly open the throttle 1000 rpm stumble misfire 2000 rpm higher revs ok.my cagiva tl1000 stated it first. 2 months past.still not solved the cagiva,out on the gsx1400 got home and it started to do the same thing. the first thing i did with cagiva tanks of yes two. stript cleand new fuel. new plugs a set of carbs . all cleaned .try setting the TP on the cagiva is no joke . by the way no F1 no codes ,some say injectors air filter. plugs ECM . fuel pump filter. on tick over jumping up and down. as for the gsx1400 i will pull the tank in a day or so. thank for the video .2782019.by from john in the uk.
My 1981 Suzuki GS1100EX had the same problem, i.e. rust. Unfortunately there was no way to get rid of the problem without tearing down and rebuilding all 4 carbs as well. It seems that Suzuki doesn't take any precautions against rusty fuel tanks. It would be so simple to solve the problem if they would just use galvanized steel, or aluminum to make the tanks.
I have a similar problem with my cbr1100 albeit more intermittent with fi light coming on and poor fuelling. So I know how you felt. Internet provides a myriad of solutions some of which you've mentioned and would involve a 'lucky dip' approach with a potentially high bill with no fix. Fora appear to be full of bs as well with everyone having an opinion with no idea. Dealers and garages either aren't interested either because they don't think they'll solve or want to lead you a merry dance with a bill at the end and then saying there is no problem we've found. One garage suggested running high octane petrol for several fill ups due to ethanol gumming up the system in regular unleaded. That didn't work either. Really depressing as I want the bike and wouldn't push the issues onto some other unsuspecting buyer to find. Not sure but don't think cbr1100s have issues with rusty tanks and tank looks really clean from the top. What to do what to do?
wow had me worried Busa owner to xD glad you got it sorted have a 2003 70,000km still pulls like a frieght train hard as nails but gonna need some new clutch plates soon otherwise is an amazing bike id only sell it to get a new busa
Yes tank can be the issue if it was not coated. If tank was this rusted you need to completely dissasemble the external fuel pump and filters to clean out the crud or bike will still cut out. The Design of fuel system is the problem on 1999 2000 with external fuel pump. I added secondary low pressure fuel pump see the hayabusa.org for explanation also how to clean out the external fuel pump assembly. My bike already had tank coated so i didnt have to deal with that problem. Make sure to change fuel hoses every 2 years as they collapse from the heat under tank.
Must have given you a head ACHE, I thought I'm going through problems getting my bike to run but I That's honestly extreme, so much money and none fixed. Well done for diagnosing the whole bike and getting it to run though!
To byl absolutny bol w doopie, ale w koncu doszedlem.. Szkoda, ze zaczalem od konca . Wystarczylo kamerka inspekcyjna zajrzec do baku :) Czlowiek sie uczy cale zycie :)
Thanks for the videos, they are really helpful 👍🏻 I have a problem with my 1999 Busa, it runs poorly under load. I have had the pump off twice! 😬 Have disconnected the alarm and emptied the tank to check the fuel filter/sieve etc. No joy 👎🏻 Its driving me crazy!!! 🤬 Have ordered the dealer mode cable/switch and will check the TPS etc when it arrives. Any suggestions very welcome.
Im have symptoms of my bike dying just out of the blue but my bike runs fantastic until it decides to quit. Let set overnight and fires right back up and will run great until it decides to quit again. Im going to check my tank now.
@Found rust in the very bottom of the tank, and a clogged up fuel strainer :) Piculiar indeed, tank looked pristine from gas filler cap. Removed fuel pump, and looked pristine from that end too. Only when I disassembled the fuel pump unit, I found a very bad patch of rust and crap in the very bottom, next to the fuel strainer. I got much higher hopes for spring, now :) Lesson learned: Inspect thoroughly. First impression can be deceitful.
DUDE! I have the same symptoms in my Ninja and the tank is full of rust due to a faulty gas tank cap. I've exhausted so many options and still the problem isn't fixed. Going to try this now and report back.
@@benher973 bad gas and gunk was clogging the system every time I was cleaning it. From fuel filter to carbs. Eventually de rusted the tank, cleaned carbs and installed a second fuel filter.
Great video man. Brother. I noticed my gas cap is sticky hard to turn the key. Then saw sone rust where the fuel nozzle hits my take inside. So I am guessing I have the same problem.
Interesting so you filled up the whole tank with the evapo rust and left it for a whole day and thats it? I need to do this on my bike rush! Thanks for the tip
3 keys to that. You need to have the tank totally dry before pouring the evaporust inside. let it marinate in warm place. Dont rinse with water, do it with petrol.
adikxx83 I see. I literally need to do it my bike is stalling so times. I took the bike for a ride today and i accelerated and picking up close to 7k rpm’s I felt the bike struggling to accelerate more like if the gas pressure was low or something it felt strange my Ike never has behaved like that
When you have issues like that you start from the fuel tank and all the fuel related parts and carburettors then your ignition coils etc and then work from there if the problems have not been resolved.
Helo sir i am having a small issue with my 2017 hayabusa While cruising on 2000-3000 rpm there is a pop up sound coming ….if m on above 4000 rpm there is no problem running smooth…bt on 2000-4000 rpm ithere is pop up sound coming up please help me with this I recently changed the spark plug also bt it is still there
Yo man first of all awesome video. And second my 06 hayabusa has the issue where it struggles start up sometimes , and I'm think it could be because of the tank rust , but since I don't have much time to try to fix that right now I wanted to know what would be the best fuel additives to help get clean of the fuel system out
MOTO ACE hi buddy, best rust remedy is Evaporust or MetalRescue. For fuel system cleansing people usually recomment Wynns cleaners. I run it on my bikes on a regular basis and so far no complaints.
adikxx83 cool thanks for the Info man , and one more thing ,what was the name of the site that you got your fuel pump from? Fuel pump from the dealership over here price goes from 450-600 $(didn't really actually give me a price, just a rough estemet and not really sure if they included laber cost as well ) the last time I called..which is a killer there..
Hello. I have a 1st gen busa. And I am facing the same issue. The bike does not start once stopped. I changed the self bearing and everything. Worked ok for maybe a week or so but soon realized that it wasn't the problem. I wasn't aware about the tank cleaning. Let me try that. also there is a weird sound when i try to use the self for starting purposes.. Do you have an idea of what the issue may be?
I have a 2015 and it sat with a full tank over the winter. I just took it out the other day and the ABS light and the F1 light came on after about a 15-minute ride. It started to bog down like it wasn't getting any fuel. I turned around and came home. I wonder if that is what is wrong with my busa
HI today i mite of found the cagiva problem ?intake carb rubber soporte mount as been damaged buy someone before me. just came across it by look. opening the butterfly fully shining a torch down the port i seen some rubber sticking out in side .i will try and find one. for number two cylinder ., this mite sort the problem . this mite help others i op.by from john in the uk.
I de rusted it well with evaporust and that's it. I had a bike for about a year after filming the video and the tank was still clean inside. Not sure how well it held up after that.
hey bro.. my bike was taking jerks.. and it clearly seems the problem is regarding fuel supply.. i have checked the injectors but as i placed them back the bike has started to die.. what do you suggest..?
same problem with my 1gen busa after 10mins of riding it feels losing the power of my bike(not electric) but my tank is clean anyone with same problem?
Same here battery is good I put a new stator on and same problem I’m going to check my tank to see if any rust is on there when I get off work I have a 1st gen also
adikxx83 thanks a lot, my bike has been running like crap and i also notice rust in my tank. Thank you for posting.... Evapor-rust is expensive so i dont wanna purchase more than needed.
Izzy Colon just make sure the tank is completely dry before you pour evaporust in. Remains of petrol will weaken evaporust. Ince the tank is ready for the treatment do it all in a place that is warm(garage maybe) and once all completed don't rinse the tank using water as this will cause quick return of rust. Rinse it with petrol and always try to keep it full of gas ,that way ur safe.
Hi, I saw Your video on "why to buy an RF900R". and guess what, i bought it and i`m very happy with it. Do You still have the RF900 and did you experience similar problems (rust) with it? The only problem i have with it is that my speedometer says 100 kmh, but TomTom says 90. so i have a 10% speeddifference. Went on german autobahn and its 260 vs 234. same 10%. I read that older bikes lose HP, mine is a 1995 model. Do You know of any way to fix this? I read about after market sprockets, but i seem to have stock. I read about a new crankshaft fixing it, but thats a bit expensive to "try". You seem knowledgable to me, so i thought i`d ask. I enjoy Your videos, keep up the good work. Flying Dutchman
Thanks! That's awsome that you bought the RF. Yes still have mine and it NEVER MISSED A BEAT! Zero rust problem. I havn't posted any vids about RF because i spent nearly a year riding the Busa but i will post some RF update soon(did a few little things to her) I took my RF to Dyno last year and it produced 117 HP at the wheel !!! Typically dyno will robs about 10% of power so that would give about 130 HP at the crank which is what Suzuki claimed when the bike was new! Unfortunately high mileage and abuse will take its toll on power output in any engine but you can do things to preserve the power for years. I always run mine on fully synthetic oil(protects the engine much sooner then cheap mineral oil which needs more time to provide lubricating coating), 98 octane fuel makes things a bit better too. Free flowing exhaust and unrestricted filter+iridium plugs will also add a couple of HP. So you loose power with mileage but get small gains there. Regarding false speedo's indications that sounds about right . 5% to 10% of error is kind of normal for most of bikes from what i see/hear. To be honest with you that's why i always laugh hearing some people telling me they pushed 170mph on their CBR 600cc....(ridiculous) .Velocity indicated by speedometer is always exaggerated. Sadly i don't have an advice on how to fix the RF speedo issue,initially i was going to suggest going back to stock sprockets but you said you have stock setup in yours. Maybe new speedo drive at the front wheel? Kind Regards!
Maybe this might be interesting? www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/archive/index.php/t-38509.html what Riffer says about the GSX-R750 camshaft? What is your opinion on that? I have been pumping octane 95 untill now, will switch to 98 from now on :) Bought my RF in januari for € 750,- with 50000km on it. Had it checked and still had € 1500,- in maintenance and replacementparts. But i thought it worth it. Now i`m looking for simple HP-corrections so the 10% will come down. Love to see what You did to Yours. I still need to replace my mirrors. I think they vibrate too much and at 240kmh they fold inward because of the wind. Planning a trip through Norway to the NorthCape next summer. So still some expenses to come... Kind Regards, Flying Dutchman
Hi,50.000km for RF is nothing, mine has equivalent of 60.000 and runs fine so you should be good. I heard the GSXR camshaft /valves story a few times so quite possibly it's true. I also wanted to go that way some time ago and even bought forged Wiseco piston kit for mine. Capacity would go up to 1043cc and compression to 12.0:1(stock is 11.3:1). I also planned to buy DYNATEK ignition system and V&H downpipes but the whole project with labour cost would come out close to £4K so i scrapped the idea and bought the Hayabusa instead. Still have the new piston/rings/valves so if financial situation allowes i'd love to do it all one day. Going back to simple and cheap power gains i think the cheapest option is some exhaust can(100euro?), k&N air filter(50euro?), Dynojet kit on carbs(100euro?),iridium plugs(40 euro?) and wrapping the downpipes with thermal tape for better scavenging effect. I did all of the above to mine:) Thermo wrap also keeps the bike slightly cooler during very hot days as those downpipes get lava hot in city traffic. The thing is that if you do all those it's worth to get it set up on the dyno by an expert cause without a proper tune you probably won't gain anything... By the way i saw you video showing your red RF and if you really paid 750 euro for it then u got a deal of the century cause it looks healthy and proper :) For that money it's a sin not to buy Lol:) Regards Ade
Hey Brother how are you.. I wanted your help regarding clutch issues.. Clutch plates were worn out.. I had replaced them.. But when i press the clutch n shift to 1st gear from neutral the bike takes a big jerk and dies immediately.. As if the clutch isn't pressed.. What do you suggest to check..? I have pulled out all the air from the reservoir.. Or mayebe the reservoir isn't creating much pressure..?
Hi Bud, my first thought was side stand issue. Did you soak the plates in oil for 12 hours before you replaced them? If not there is a possibilitty that they will now drag and that could cause this. I asked Busa people on FB and they say possibly you put the plates in wrong order which could also cause issues.Was also told that spacer spring at the bottom or slip plate at the top could have been put in wrong way....
Those were the things people mentioned to me on FB but if you only replaced friction plates then don't i wouldn't worry about the aforementioned. Maybe check side stand sensor because what happens with your bike is exactly what happens when side stand sensor is jammed. Putting your bike in gear with side stand out(or sensor jammed in out position) will cause immediate stall. Another thought-did you tighten down the springs bolts to right torque?I think it would be 26 Nm for them. Supposedly weakened springs could also cause dragging. Distorted plates can also be a cause of that. Many things to check.
hey bro.. My busa was running fine but started to take jerks as if fuel supply isn't proper.. I pulled the fuel injectors n checked them they were clean and good.. After I placed them back the bike is not starting properly and dies while running as if no fuel is being supplied.. what do you suggest..? Should I check the spark coils as well..?
harsh kumra hi mate. This is a code for ignition system malfunction. It could be one of the coils.Check connectors on all coils and swap coils round. If code changes to 24 25 or 27 then it will probably be sth to do with coil. They are cheap so no worries. Check spark plugs too, weak spark from nasty plug can also result in malfunctions. I have a vid how tonreplace coils on my channel,might be helpful(maybe)
Hey Bro i need your help.. I guess the fuel pump motor makes a starting sound when the ignition is turned on.. Can you tell me please that particular sound is continuous or not.. Does the motor sound stops after sometime or is it continuous..
harsh kumra hi buddy. The fuel pump primes every time you press red ignition button. It will then make this gentle somewhat whining sound which lasts about 2 maybe 3 seconds. I can film it for you so you could hear exactly what it sounds like.I could do it tomorrow and put a link to the video for you so you could check it. If you need this let me know.
adikxx83 Brother My mechanic says that in some old model busas the sound is continuous and that will not affect the bike for working good.. Is that so..? Or is it that we can put the fuel pump motor direct to work continuous and is there any problem in doin that..? Will the fuel pump motor work fine..? I need your help bro.. Please..
harsh kumra hi bud. I don't quite ubderstand what you're asking about but in my 1999 Busa and my friend's 2002 Busa fuel pump primes for about 2-3 seconds when you press the red ignition switch on the handlebar. When it primes for that short moment it makes this specific sound. Once the pump is ready for operation it becomes quiet. Would you like me to film it for you? I can record a video with sound of that pump so you could see and hear it yourself. Whoud you like me to make a short video of it?
adikxx83 Bro im saying that the pump is making continuous sound after pressing the red button.. You are right the sound should stop after 2-3 seconds but it is continuous.. How can i fix it..? Please Help
hey buddy... can you help me out with the fi light warning... today i went for a ride and when i gave the throttle to a higher rpm the fi light came and started to blink on the digital screen.. is it lyk dat if any of the connection is broke or like fuel gauge is not working then also it shows the fi light..? or fi light is only warning related to fuel injectors..?
Hi mate, FI light shouldn't slash when riding. Put your bike in dealer mode then start it and see what error code is displayed. Knowing error code we'll know what's up.
+adikxx83 Error code 41.. I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay.. where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..? not able to find the relay..?
+adikxx83 Error code 41.. I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay.. where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..? not able to find the relay..?
+adikxx83 Error code 41.. I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay.. where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..? not able to find the relay..?
Harsh Kumra hi mate. Fuel pump relay is located on the left hand side beneath the plastic panel near the riders seat. Remove the seat and the whole rear plastic panel so you could have good access to it. It's a black ,rectangular ,small relay. You have another one of those relays in the fuse box in the front of the bike on the left side(under the black plastic cover) Just saying this so you could swap them for a moment to see if it changes anything.
Mam identyczny problem z moją ,zauważyłem że potrafi zgasnąć a jak odkrecasz z wciśniętym sprzęgłem nie chce iść na 11 k tak jak w filmiku muszę zdjąć bak i zobaczyć czy jest rdza w środku
adikxx83 Masz 2 butle tego specyfiku a powiedziałeś w filmiku że wlałeś 3l a to będzie jedna bańka.Czy w ciągu dnia przestawiałeś bak tak żeby ten płyn wyczyścił cały bak? Łukasz Garczyński na FB jakby co najlepiej było by pogadać przez tel lub na fb też latam w PB
Wlalem 3 galony Evaporust(ok 12L) .Zmienialem pozycje baku co jakis czas zeby oczyscic cala powierzchnie wewnetrzna, lekki to bol gdyz musisz czyms uszczelnic dolny otwor w baku-ja wepchnalem 1 litrowa plastikowa butelke, ktora idealnie zaslepila dolny otwor. Evaporust i Metalrescue sa najlepsze na ta robote, niestety drogi towar, ale dziala. Zanim uzyjesz odrdzewiacza upewnij sie, ze nie ma juz benzyny w baku i ze jest absolutnie suchy. Benzyna dramatycznie oslabi dzialanie odrdzewiacza, odrobilem ta droga lekcje robiac ten sam zabieg w innym sprzecie i efekt byl mierny wlasnie przez to,ze zalalem Evaporust do baku , ktory ciagle mial resztki paliwa. Najlepiej trzymac wtedy zbiornik w cieplym pomieszczeniu, w chlodnym garazu efekt tez moze byc raczej sredni. Po oczyszczeniu nie plucz zbiornika woda lecz benzyna. Plukanie odrdzewiacza woda promuje ponowne rdzewienie wiec plukanie tylko benzyna!!! Pozdro
adikxx83 Witam takie pytanie czy po roku 2000 baki były zabezpieczone przed rdzą i drugie czy bak od rocznika 01-07 pasuje do mojej Hayki jako,że jak mam wywalać ok 100£ na ten płyn i się z tym Pie.. to wolę kupić używany bak bez rdzy i miejmy nadzieję ocynkowany jeśli pasuje.
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I took stones and petrol and shook them around for like an hour.. it really cleaned the rust!! Then pool acid for about 1hour. The tank looked super clear after that! Dried it and then bought a 2part epoxy mix and re lined the inside. Stuff really worked!!! Tank is still clean inside! Took pump apart and cleaned. Sent injectors to me mate for sonic cleaning and now the bike runs like a dream!
I recommend to always fill your tank and add some fuel treatment for extended storage. This will mean less of the metal surface is exposed to the air and will be less likely to rust while your bike sits for long periods like the winter. So many bikes not just Suzuki's have this problem after they sit.
BTW that sensor you installed for water temp was actually the air temp sensor that goes into the air box from the looks of it.
Wat kind of fuel treatments would u recommend??
@@busaboi4669 in Britain its called Redex
OMG! Dude you are a fucking genius! Finally someone who know how to get to the fucking point and stay on subject. Thank you! Awesome video!
AGREE He DOES A GREAT VIDEO ... MOST people are so 🥱😡 ...THANK YOU BLESSINGS 🙏
I had these exact symptoms on my ZZR from not using it often. I used some redline fuel cleaner and it now runs perfectly. No cutting out while riding anymore and starts first time. I hated the way it just cut out while riding out of a busy junction. It was embarrassing and dangerous. My bike is older (94) yet no signs of rust in the tank yet. really strange to see it was rust on a more modern and well looked after Hayabusa🤔 I don’t even keep mine garaged all year round and I bet yours is.
Because alcohol in gasoline attracks watermolecules. And gastanks are not treated on the inside. After derusting the gastank I used a product that leaves a rustproof layer inside the tank. It's a 2K compound liquid.
do you have a link or info for this product?
Absolute ace buddy, I have done every fix you did and nothing, the one thing that is one of the least expected... I will try this right after this weekends storm.... thank you...
Thanks bud.Really hope you'll get your Busa fixed,take care!
Fixed?
Had an old 1981 cb900 custom that was stripped of its fairings and had beautiful paint job. Kind of looked like a nice kz1000. (naked style bike). I purchased at a very low price due to the same problem yours had. Rust in tank. I done a similar rust eating treatment and added see thru inline fuel filter. made for a nice dependable city cruiser after that. Had five gears with a high and low so it was more or less a ten speed which was great for highway but then I missed the fairing from wind fatigue.
Boys and Girls this is why you always do a fuel pump PSI and fuel flow test before and after replacing.
had a very similar issue on my GSX-R rust destroyed my fuel pumps seals replaced the pump and cleaned tank but the injectors were still dirty spent 3 months chasing the problem.
:D
Only thing I can add to this, if you have a rusted tank, and use a rust treatment to remove the rust, do yourself a favour and get a ceramic coating treatment for the tank as well.
I had the same issues on a GSX 650F when I first started out riding, did the rust treatment, removed the rust, but 6 months later it was starting to come back. Did the treatment again, but this time also did the ceramic coating inside, and never had an issue from that moment on.
Got a link for the ceramic coating?
Really Great informational video.. This will definitely be some help to other Busa pilots with similar problems!
The Gen 1 is the most beautiful Hayabusa! It has so much charismatic.
i swear the amount of frustration i've felt over something so trivial
Great i go, bit mine, idle is so rich and some times die.....over 1200rpm, no bike can catch me, non stop rising RPM's , on high rpms run beautiful......hello from Florida, USA.
Love the colour and look of the bike, enjoy 2023, cheers from a Gixxer 750 fan, Australia.
👌
Ahhhh the internet “throw parts at it solution”.
thats usually how you fix things unless you are a technician. wait i forgot its youtube you prolly are a technician with thousands of dollars worth of diagnostic equipment.
I had the same symptoms with my 1999 and it was the supply fuel line between the tank and the pump being kinked. Replace the hose and make sure it isn't kinked when putting the tank down.
gsx1400 missing out slowly open the throttle 1000 rpm stumble misfire 2000 rpm higher revs ok.my cagiva tl1000 stated it first. 2 months past.still not solved the cagiva,out on the gsx1400 got home and it started to do the same thing. the first thing i did with cagiva tanks of yes two. stript cleand new fuel. new plugs a set of carbs . all cleaned .try setting the TP on the cagiva is no joke . by the way no F1 no codes ,some say injectors air filter. plugs ECM . fuel pump filter. on tick over jumping up and down. as for the gsx1400 i will pull the tank in a day or so. thank for the video .2782019.by from john in the uk.
You nailed it! My FJR has the same symptoms....
Thanks alot! also fixed my R1000 K2 same problem!
My 1981 Suzuki GS1100EX had the same problem, i.e. rust. Unfortunately there was no way to get rid of the problem without tearing down and rebuilding all 4 carbs as well. It seems that Suzuki doesn't take any precautions against rusty fuel tanks. It would be so simple to solve the problem if they would just use galvanized steel, or aluminum to make the tanks.
its the ethanol in the gas that's causing the rust problem there is a Teflon coating for the tank available
I have a similar problem with my cbr1100 albeit more intermittent with fi light coming on and poor fuelling. So I know how you felt. Internet provides a myriad of solutions some of which you've mentioned and would involve a 'lucky dip' approach with a potentially high bill with no fix. Fora appear to be full of bs as well with everyone having an opinion with no idea. Dealers and garages either aren't interested either because they don't think they'll solve or want to lead you a merry dance with a bill at the end and then saying there is no problem we've found. One garage suggested running high octane petrol for several fill ups due to ethanol gumming up the system in regular unleaded. That didn't work either. Really depressing as I want the bike and wouldn't push the issues onto some other unsuspecting buyer to find. Not sure but don't think cbr1100s have issues with rusty tanks and tank looks really clean from the top. What to do what to do?
Rusty tanks are kinda synonimous with Suzuki... had it on my 'busa and my Van Van and both are heated garage sleepers. Evaporust is great!
Fantastic information ,keep up the good work.Your videos are clear and easy to understand.
wow had me worried Busa owner to xD glad you got it sorted have a 2003 70,000km still pulls like a frieght train hard as nails but gonna need some new clutch plates soon otherwise is an amazing bike id only sell it to get a new busa
zion kairua agree,awsome bikes
Yes tank can be the issue if it was not coated. If tank was this rusted you need to completely dissasemble the external fuel pump and filters to clean out the crud or bike will still cut out.
The Design of fuel system is the problem on 1999 2000 with external fuel pump. I added secondary low pressure fuel pump see the hayabusa.org for explanation also how to clean out the external fuel pump assembly.
My bike already had tank coated so i didnt have to deal with that problem. Make sure to change fuel hoses every 2 years as they collapse from the heat under tank.
Hey bro I believe this is the issue with my Hayabusa imma go try this out later today THANKS!!!
So did it wrk??
Must have given you a head ACHE, I thought I'm going through problems getting my bike to run but I That's honestly extreme, so much money and none fixed. Well done for diagnosing the whole bike and getting it to run though!
To byl absolutny bol w doopie, ale w koncu doszedlem..
Szkoda, ze zaczalem od konca . Wystarczylo kamerka inspekcyjna zajrzec do baku :)
Czlowiek sie uczy cale zycie :)
@@Adikxx no pewnie! Fajna busa
though mine is a gsx 650f, I think I have the same problem. Will try it and see if it makes a difference.
did it work?
my Honda is doing the exact same thing but I Just replaced the spark plugs. Hope it's fuel related. Thanks for the video info
If that my problem I will just be so impressed .. I have 90 750 gsxr same issues your have .. my tank looks clean need to take a better look. Ty
Thanks for the videos, they are really helpful 👍🏻 I have a problem with my 1999 Busa, it runs poorly under load. I have had the pump off twice! 😬 Have disconnected the alarm and emptied the tank to check the fuel filter/sieve etc. No joy 👎🏻 Its driving me crazy!!! 🤬 Have ordered the dealer mode cable/switch and will check the TPS etc when it arrives.
Any suggestions very welcome.
Im have symptoms of my bike dying just out of the blue but my bike runs fantastic until it decides to quit. Let set overnight and fires right back up and will run great until it decides to quit again. Im going to check my tank now.
Thanks a lot! I got similar symptoms. I'll definetly check this, before I try other drastical suggestions like replacing timing chain :O
Hope you get it sorted
@Found rust in the very bottom of the tank, and a clogged up fuel strainer :) Piculiar indeed, tank looked pristine from gas filler cap. Removed fuel pump, and looked pristine from that end too. Only when I disassembled the fuel pump unit, I found a very bad patch of rust and crap in the very bottom, next to the fuel strainer.
I got much higher hopes for spring, now :)
Lesson learned: Inspect thoroughly. First impression can be deceitful.
Thanks so very much for sharing this critical information. It shall be greatly appreciated by many. Very considerate of you, thank you 👌🌠
DUDE! I have the same symptoms in my Ninja and the tank is full of rust due to a faulty gas tank cap. I've exhausted so many options and still the problem isn't fixed. Going to try this now and report back.
What happened
@@benher973 bad gas and gunk was clogging the system every time I was cleaning it. From fuel filter to carbs. Eventually de rusted the tank, cleaned carbs and installed a second fuel filter.
Keep those tanks full when not in use!
same issue here good thing i stumbled in your vidso.. many thanks
Great video man. Brother. I noticed my gas cap is sticky hard to turn the key. Then saw sone rust where the fuel nozzle hits my take inside. So I am guessing I have the same problem.
Awesome video sir! Very well explained & detailed! You da man!
Damn! So much money spend.....:/ but you have some new parts now :) best for you!
Najlepszego!
Włodek 1410 teraz to lata jak trzeba:)
I think ile just clean mine anyway before any problems start
Did you have to replace filters after cleaning the tank. My early gsxr has same fuel system and exactly the same problem.
My 11oo xx Black Bird is having the exact same symptoms. I better check the tank. Did you have to change the lines and filters too?
Interesting so you filled up the whole tank with the evapo rust and left it for a whole day and thats it? I need to do this on my bike rush! Thanks for the tip
3 keys to that. You need to have the tank totally dry before pouring the evaporust inside. let it marinate in warm place. Dont rinse with water, do it with petrol.
adikxx83 I see. I literally need to do it my bike is stalling so times. I took the bike for a ride today and i accelerated and picking up close to 7k rpm’s I felt the bike struggling to accelerate more like if the gas pressure was low or something it felt strange my Ike never has behaved like that
If you want to do it properly there is alot more to it. Otherwise it will happen again sooner or later.
You live and learn.
When you have issues like that you start from the fuel tank and all the fuel related parts and carburettors then your ignition coils etc and then work from there if the problems have not been resolved.
Rec fuel has no ethanol. All my small engines run no ethanol. It leaves a film if aloud to sit for a period of time that gums up lines, carbs, etc.
Should of replaced all the fuel lines as well...
Wow who would have thought a Rusty Tank would do that...
Did you inspect the discarded fuel filter? It could have given you a sign
Helo sir i am having a small issue with my 2017 hayabusa
While cruising on 2000-3000 rpm there is a pop up sound coming ….if m on above 4000 rpm there is no problem running smooth…bt on 2000-4000 rpm ithere is pop up sound coming up please help me with this I recently changed the spark plug also bt it is still there
Ty so much I just bought that stuff I have all the same symptoms and f1 light coming on
hello,did this solved your issue? Thanks
What is a f1 light lol
@@jaayjr2516 motor
@@projectp24 u racing gran prix? Like open wheel indy cars?
Yo man first of all awesome video. And second my 06 hayabusa has the issue where it struggles start up sometimes , and I'm think it could be because of the tank rust , but since I don't have much time to try to fix that right now I wanted to know what would be the best fuel additives to help get clean of the fuel system out
MOTO ACE hi buddy, best rust remedy is Evaporust or MetalRescue. For fuel system cleansing people usually recomment Wynns cleaners. I run it on my bikes on a regular basis and so far no complaints.
adikxx83 cool thanks for the Info man , and one more thing ,what was the name of the site that you got your fuel pump from? Fuel pump from the dealership over here price goes from 450-600 $(didn't really actually give me a price, just a rough estemet and not really sure if they included laber cost as well ) the last time I called..which is a killer there..
Welcome to the new biofuel…
Fks up your bike!
Never let your bike stand still with E10 fuel
Hello. I have a 1st gen busa. And I am facing the same issue. The bike does not start once stopped. I changed the self bearing and everything. Worked ok for maybe a week or so but soon realized that it wasn't the problem. I wasn't aware about the tank cleaning. Let me try that. also there is a weird sound when i try to use the self for starting purposes.. Do you have an idea of what the issue may be?
I have a 2015 and it sat with a full tank over the winter. I just took it out the other day and the ABS light and the F1 light came on after about a 15-minute ride. It started to bog down like it wasn't getting any fuel. I turned around and came home. I wonder if that is what is wrong with my busa
There is A LOT more to doing this rust removal properly. A HECK OF ALOT.
After i put the evapo rust the rust has gone but the rust came back very fast how did you deal with that?
Wow super helpful great video
Joshua Fritz thanks,hopefully somebody will benefit from this horrific experience of mine:)
How did the tank get so rusty, is it from bad gas
Water mixture and fuel
My bike having the same symptoms as your except it wont fire at all. Do you think cleaning the gas tank will work?
Sounds about right!
HI today i mite of found the cagiva problem ?intake carb rubber soporte mount as been damaged buy someone before me. just came across it by look. opening the butterfly fully shining a torch down the port i seen some rubber sticking out in side .i will try and find one. for number two cylinder ., this mite sort the problem . this mite help others i op.by from john in the uk.
Did you have to reline gas tank after using evaporator-rust?
I de rusted it well with evaporust and that's it. I had a bike for about a year after filming the video and the tank was still clean inside. Not sure how well it held up after that.
You also got a spare bike in the garage? 🧟♀️
I have a box of nuts and 5 liters white vinegar I clean tanks with.
Thank you for sharing, I glad I cam across your video.
1999 model
I recently bought a 2006 BUSA @@Adikxx
I'm having the same problem but with my 2001 zx-6r I think it's the Stator Coil
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!! WILL check mine ASAP
Do you fix your problem ?
hey bro..
my bike was taking jerks..
and it clearly seems the problem is regarding fuel supply..
i have checked the injectors but as i placed them back the bike has started to die..
what do you suggest..?
that helmet tho! thats awesome!! haha
Thanks for a formidable video… 👍🏻😊🏍
my 2005 yamaha yzf600r does the exact same thing starting, stalling and bogging
same problem with my 1gen busa after 10mins of riding it feels losing the power of my bike(not electric) but my tank is clean anyone with same problem?
Same here battery is good I put a new stator on and same problem I’m going to check my tank to see if any rust is on there when I get off work I have a 1st gen also
I have the same issues with my tmax 530 but i dont think its the tank
Same problem helped me alot
Thanks for leaving a comment
Adikxx83, with 3 gal. Of evaporust it wouldnt quite fill the whole tank... Did you continue to turn the tank on its sides throughout the day?
Izzy Colon yes that's precisely what i did.
adikxx83 thanks a lot, my bike has been running like crap and i also notice rust in my tank. Thank you for posting.... Evapor-rust is expensive so i dont wanna purchase more than needed.
Izzy Colon just make sure the tank is completely dry before you pour evaporust in. Remains of petrol will weaken evaporust. Ince the tank is ready for the treatment do it all in a place that is warm(garage maybe) and once all completed don't rinse the tank using water as this will cause quick return of rust. Rinse it with petrol and always try to keep it full of gas ,that way ur safe.
did you end up having to clean your fuel pump?! and can you clean the rust out with the pump in or no?
Yes i cleaned the pump too. Later i made a video showing how to disassemble the pump
Great video dude!!
Hi,
I saw Your video on "why to buy an RF900R". and guess what, i bought it and i`m very happy with it.
Do You still have the RF900 and did you experience similar problems (rust) with it? The only problem i have with it is that my speedometer says 100 kmh, but TomTom says 90. so i have a 10% speeddifference. Went on german autobahn and its 260 vs 234. same 10%. I read that older bikes lose HP, mine is a 1995 model. Do You know of any way to fix this? I read about after market sprockets, but i seem to have stock. I read about a new crankshaft fixing it, but thats a bit expensive to "try". You seem knowledgable to me, so i thought i`d ask.
I enjoy Your videos, keep up the good work.
Flying Dutchman
Thanks! That's awsome that you bought the RF. Yes still have mine and it NEVER MISSED A BEAT! Zero rust problem. I havn't posted any vids about RF because i spent nearly a year riding the Busa but i will post some RF update soon(did a few little things to her) I took my RF to Dyno last year and it produced 117 HP at the wheel !!! Typically dyno will robs about 10% of power so that would give about 130 HP at the crank which is what Suzuki claimed when the bike was new! Unfortunately high mileage and abuse will take its toll on power output in any engine but you can do things to preserve the power for years. I always run mine on fully synthetic oil(protects the engine much sooner then cheap mineral oil which needs more time to provide lubricating coating), 98 octane fuel makes things a bit better too. Free flowing exhaust and unrestricted filter+iridium plugs will also add a couple of HP. So you loose power with mileage but get small gains there. Regarding false speedo's indications that sounds about right . 5% to 10% of error is kind of normal for most of bikes from what i see/hear. To be honest with you that's why i always laugh hearing some people telling me they pushed 170mph on their CBR 600cc....(ridiculous) .Velocity indicated by speedometer is always exaggerated. Sadly i don't have an advice on how to fix the RF speedo issue,initially i was going to suggest going back to stock sprockets but you said you have stock setup in yours. Maybe new speedo drive at the front wheel?
Kind Regards!
Maybe this might be interesting? www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/archive/index.php/t-38509.html
what Riffer says about the GSX-R750 camshaft? What is your opinion on that?
I have been pumping octane 95 untill now, will switch to 98 from now on :)
Bought my RF in januari for € 750,- with 50000km on it. Had it checked and still had € 1500,- in maintenance and replacementparts. But i thought it worth it. Now i`m looking for simple HP-corrections so the 10% will come down. Love to see what You did to Yours. I still need to replace my mirrors. I think they vibrate too much and at 240kmh they fold inward because of the wind. Planning a trip through Norway to the NorthCape next summer. So still some expenses to come...
Kind Regards,
Flying Dutchman
Hi,50.000km for RF is nothing, mine has equivalent of 60.000 and runs fine so you should be good. I heard the GSXR camshaft /valves story a few times so quite possibly it's true. I also wanted to go that way some time ago and even bought forged Wiseco piston kit for mine. Capacity would go up to 1043cc and compression to 12.0:1(stock is 11.3:1). I also planned to buy DYNATEK ignition system and V&H downpipes but the whole project with labour cost would come out close to £4K so i scrapped the idea and bought the Hayabusa instead. Still have the new piston/rings/valves so if financial situation allowes i'd love to do it all one day. Going back to simple and cheap power gains i think the cheapest option is some exhaust can(100euro?), k&N air filter(50euro?), Dynojet kit on carbs(100euro?),iridium plugs(40 euro?) and wrapping the downpipes with thermal tape for better scavenging effect. I did all of the above to mine:) Thermo wrap also keeps the bike slightly cooler during very hot days as those downpipes get lava hot in city traffic. The thing is that if you do all those it's worth to get it set up on the dyno by an expert cause without a proper tune you probably won't gain anything...
By the way i saw you video showing your red RF and if you really paid 750 euro for it then u got a deal of the century cause it looks healthy and proper :) For that money it's a sin not to buy Lol:)
Regards
Ade
Very helpfull, thanks
Hey Brother how are you..
I wanted your help regarding clutch issues..
Clutch plates were worn out..
I had replaced them..
But when i press the clutch n shift to 1st gear from neutral the bike takes a big jerk and dies immediately..
As if the clutch isn't pressed..
What do you suggest to check..?
I have pulled out all the air from the reservoir..
Or mayebe the reservoir isn't creating much pressure..?
Hi Bud, my first thought was side stand issue. Did you soak the plates in oil for 12 hours before you replaced them? If not there is a possibilitty that they will now drag and that could cause this. I asked Busa people on FB and they say possibly you put the plates in wrong order which could also cause issues.Was also told that spacer spring at the bottom or slip plate at the top could have been put in wrong way....
adikxx83 haven't soaked them brother..
And I one clutch and one pressure plate.. in this order i have placed them..
adikxx83 what is the spacer spring
And the slip plates
Those were the things people mentioned to me on FB but if you only replaced friction plates then don't i wouldn't worry about the aforementioned. Maybe check side stand sensor because what happens with your bike is exactly what happens when side stand sensor is jammed. Putting your bike in gear with side stand out(or sensor jammed in out position) will cause immediate stall. Another thought-did you tighten down the springs bolts to right torque?I think it would be 26 Nm for them. Supposedly weakened springs could also cause dragging.
Distorted plates can also be a cause of that. Many things to check.
Thanks for the info. Sir!!
hey bro..
My busa was running fine but started to take jerks as if fuel supply isn't proper..
I pulled the fuel injectors n checked them they were clean and good..
After I placed them back the bike is not starting properly and dies while running as if no fuel is being supplied..
what do you suggest..?
Should I check the spark coils as well..?
Change the ignition coils...worked for me having same symptoms and the hot start issue...new coils make a difference
Hey bro where can i get the gear shift gasket seal..?
The seal which stops the oil in which the pressure is made for the clutch..?
harsh kumra order on robinsonsfoundry.co.uk
They have all parts for the busa
adikxx83 hey bro my bike shows the c26 code what should i do..?
harsh kumra hi mate. This is a code for ignition system malfunction. It could be one of the coils.Check connectors on all coils and swap coils round. If code changes to 24 25 or 27 then it will probably be sth to do with coil. They are cheap so no worries. Check spark plugs too, weak spark from nasty plug can also result in malfunctions. I have a vid how tonreplace coils on my channel,might be helpful(maybe)
adikxx83 i swapped the coils n changed the spark plugs also then also it shows c26..
harsh kumra it 100% is somethingbtondo with ignition system. Ecu? Faulty coil? How are your plugs? Are they healthy?
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Having this problem with a busa I Just picked up. Hope this helps
Did you finally fix the problem if so what was the issue
Cleaning and Maintenance, Cleaning and Maintenance…
thx bro, will do the same to mine
So you just threw parts at it until you bought some high dollar vinegar ????????????????????????????????
Yes !
@@Adikxx Thanks for the video and the heads up. I been looking to buy a Gen2 but I will remember to check the tank out before buying now
!!!!!
best video ever
Thanks !
Hey Bro i need your help..
I guess the fuel pump motor makes a starting sound when the ignition is turned on..
Can you tell me please that particular sound is continuous or not..
Does the motor sound stops after sometime or is it continuous..
harsh kumra hi buddy. The fuel pump primes every time you press red ignition button. It will then make this gentle somewhat whining sound which lasts about 2 maybe 3 seconds. I can film it for you so you could hear exactly what it sounds like.I could do it tomorrow and put a link to the video for you so you could check it. If you need this let me know.
adikxx83 Brother My mechanic says that in some old model busas the sound is continuous and that will not affect the bike for working good..
Is that so..?
Or is it that we can put the fuel pump motor direct to work continuous and is there any problem in doin that..?
Will the fuel pump motor work fine..?
I need your help bro..
Please..
harsh kumra hi bud. I don't quite ubderstand what you're asking about but in my 1999 Busa and my friend's 2002 Busa fuel pump primes for about 2-3 seconds when you press the red ignition switch on the handlebar. When it primes for that short moment it makes this specific sound. Once the pump is ready for operation it becomes quiet. Would you like me to film it for you? I can record a video with sound of that pump so you could see and hear it yourself. Whoud you like me to make a short video of it?
adikxx83 Bro im saying that the pump is making continuous sound after pressing the red button..
You are right the sound should stop after 2-3 seconds but it is continuous..
How can i fix it..?
Please Help
It will also be very helpful Brother if you will please film the clear sound for from the point it starts n stops after 2-3 seconds..
Brilliant help.
What year is your BUSA?
AWESOME VIDEO 💯❤️
Feel like this was a sponsored ad video.
mine is difficulty starting,after i had stator and rectifier replaced
I’m having the same problems right now so did u do the same thing in the video as far as the rust issue?
hey buddy...
can you help me out with the fi light warning...
today i went for a ride and when i gave the throttle to a higher rpm the fi light came and started to blink on the digital screen..
is it lyk dat if any of the connection is broke or like fuel gauge is not working then also it shows the fi light..?
or fi light is only warning related to fuel injectors..?
Hi mate, FI light shouldn't slash when riding. Put your bike in dealer mode then start it and see what error code is displayed. Knowing error code we'll know what's up.
+adikxx83 Error code 41..
I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay..
where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..?
not able to find the relay..?
+adikxx83 Error code 41..
I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay..
where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..?
not able to find the relay..?
+adikxx83 Error code 41..
I guess this is the code for fuel pump relay..
where is it located and what should I do any suggestions..?
not able to find the relay..?
Harsh Kumra hi mate. Fuel pump relay is located on the left hand side beneath the plastic panel near the riders seat. Remove the seat and the whole rear plastic panel so you could have good access to it. It's a black ,rectangular ,small relay. You have another one of those relays in the fuse box in the front of the bike on the left side(under the black plastic cover)
Just saying this so you could swap them for a moment to see if it changes anything.
Ok how did u seal the bottom of ur tank ?????
Plastic bottle stuffed in there hard
Thankyou So Much For The Video..
It was damn helpful for me..!
harsh kumra no probs bud, i'm glad it was helpful. Regards
Mam identyczny problem z moją ,zauważyłem że potrafi zgasnąć a jak odkrecasz z wciśniętym sprzęgłem nie chce iść na 11 k tak jak w filmiku muszę zdjąć bak i zobaczyć czy jest rdza w środku
Statystyk na 99% bak zawalony rdza i syfem. Jesli masz model sprzed 2002 to definitywnie bedzie to.
adikxx83 Tak mam Hayke z 2000 I dzisiaj zaczęła mieć identyczne symptomy
adikxx83 Masz 2 butle tego specyfiku a powiedziałeś w filmiku że wlałeś 3l a to będzie jedna bańka.Czy w ciągu dnia przestawiałeś bak tak żeby ten płyn wyczyścił cały bak? Łukasz Garczyński na FB jakby co najlepiej było by pogadać przez tel lub na fb też latam w PB
Wlalem 3 galony Evaporust(ok 12L) .Zmienialem pozycje baku co jakis czas zeby oczyscic cala powierzchnie wewnetrzna, lekki to bol gdyz musisz czyms uszczelnic dolny otwor w baku-ja wepchnalem 1 litrowa plastikowa butelke, ktora idealnie zaslepila dolny otwor.
Evaporust i Metalrescue sa najlepsze na ta robote, niestety drogi towar, ale dziala. Zanim uzyjesz odrdzewiacza upewnij sie, ze nie ma juz benzyny w baku i ze jest absolutnie suchy. Benzyna dramatycznie oslabi dzialanie odrdzewiacza, odrobilem ta droga lekcje robiac ten sam zabieg w innym sprzecie i efekt byl mierny wlasnie przez to,ze zalalem Evaporust do baku , ktory ciagle mial resztki paliwa. Najlepiej trzymac wtedy zbiornik w cieplym pomieszczeniu, w chlodnym garazu efekt tez moze byc raczej sredni. Po oczyszczeniu nie plucz zbiornika woda lecz benzyna. Plukanie odrdzewiacza woda promuje ponowne rdzewienie wiec plukanie tylko benzyna!!!
Pozdro
adikxx83 Witam takie pytanie czy po roku 2000 baki były zabezpieczone przed rdzą i drugie czy bak od rocznika 01-07 pasuje do mojej Hayki jako,że jak mam wywalać ok 100£ na ten płyn i się z tym Pie.. to wolę kupić używany bak bez rdzy i miejmy nadzieję ocynkowany jeśli pasuje.
great vid
Thanks,. For this video,. Thanks