Wow, thanks Curtis. I do enjoy the process of it and sharing my experiences. I hope your bike treats you well. I don’t believe there is any better value for adventure than an older goldwing.
I found that you can do this without removing the rear drive. Also I found that its easier to jack the tire up after the shocks are unbolted to slide the axle OVER the exhaust instead of under. But once you take the axle out, there is enough room for the wheel/tire to come out to the left a little and off the drive unit
Taking the drive out, it pulled the coupler off the back of my trans. That was a pain to get back on. Not worth the hassle. Leave the drive on to avoid this lol
After the lower shock bolts are removed...swing the Shocks out of the way and place a jack under the Bevel drive case....then LIFT it until the axle bolt is above the Exhaust remove the spacer from the Axle so the wheel will pull off the Bevel drive Hub...leaving the Bevel drive in place Removing the side bags makes the whole Job easier 4 Bolts each and one Electrical Plug.
I may try this next time. Had a really difficult time getting the wheel off with the drive in place. But I’m sure I didn’t have the axel above the exhaust. Maybe that’s the trick.
@@stevenmetzger2613 yes ive got 2 1984 aspencades, and an apartment parking space to work in. its much easier to just remove just the left bag and bring the axle above the exhaust rather than trying to let it fall to lower than the exhaust yes itll work but youll slowly bend your exhaust headers and create a manifold leak thats way worse than the 4 screws on the left saddlebag
I’ve been waiting for that issue to come up. My bike does have the “fix” done. Just finished the head gasket. Should have that video out soon it’s a doosey.
It’s defiantly possible. But the wheel does not role straight back. You need to shimmy it about two inches to the left off the hub and there are all types of clearance issues you can avoid by just removing the drive unit. Just a matter of picking your battles.
your right, hes just trying to avoid removing 4 screws and a single plug, by instead bending the exhaust, undoing 4 unrelated screws, not knowing the final drive is a chore to get back in, not to mention bending the exhaust will later down the road be a 2000 dollar problem that could be avoided with 20 minutes of work.
Авто/Мото
You make incredible content. I have just purchased my first goldwing and have been having a hard time finding videos on stuff like this.
Wow, thanks Curtis. I do enjoy the process of it and sharing my experiences. I hope your bike treats you well. I don’t believe there is any better value for adventure than an older goldwing.
wow ty yes keep it comming
Keep these videos coming!! I just bought a GL1200 and the quality of the video and the narration is fantastic!
Appreciate the feedback. Just the motivation I needed to finish out the re-install. Enjoy your 1200 mine has treated me very well.
I found that you can do this without removing the rear drive. Also I found that its easier to jack the tire up after the shocks are unbolted to slide the axle OVER the exhaust instead of under. But once you take the axle out, there is enough room for the wheel/tire to come out to the left a little and off the drive unit
Taking the drive out, it pulled the coupler off the back of my trans. That was a pain to get back on. Not worth the hassle. Leave the drive on to avoid this lol
Thanks for the feedback Garrett that seems to be a popular tactic. I’ll have to try it out.
After the lower shock bolts are removed...swing the Shocks out of the way and place a jack under the Bevel drive case....then LIFT it until the axle bolt is above the Exhaust
remove the spacer from the Axle so the wheel will pull off the Bevel drive Hub...leaving the Bevel drive in place
Removing the side bags makes the whole Job easier 4 Bolts each and one Electrical Plug.
I may try this next time. Had a really difficult time getting the wheel off with the drive in place. But I’m sure I didn’t have the axel above the exhaust. Maybe that’s the trick.
@@stevenmetzger2613 yes ive got 2 1984 aspencades, and an apartment parking space to work in. its much easier to just remove just the left bag and bring the axle above the exhaust rather than trying to let it fall to lower than the exhaust yes itll work but youll slowly bend your exhaust headers and create a manifold leak thats way worse than the 4 screws on the left saddlebag
i have a 84 GL1200
I don't own a Goldwing but that was interesting thanks.
Love comments like that. Thanks Hank.
Next, do a stator ;)
I’ve been waiting for that issue to come up. My bike does have the “fix” done. Just finished the head gasket. Should have that video out soon it’s a doosey.
Pretty sure you dont need to remove the final drive from the swingarm bro
It’s defiantly possible. But the wheel does not role straight back. You need to shimmy it about two inches to the left off the hub and there are all types of clearance issues you can avoid by just removing the drive unit. Just a matter of picking your battles.
your right, hes just trying to avoid removing 4 screws and a single plug, by instead bending the exhaust, undoing 4 unrelated screws, not knowing the final drive is a chore to get back in, not to mention bending the exhaust will later down the road be a 2000 dollar problem that could be avoided with 20 minutes of work.