I haven't pulled my sights apart. But if/when I decide to, so I can sheet my rifle, I know 100 % where I can find all the info I will need. Thanks for sharing the knowledge 👍 Knowledge IS Power. 🇺🇸
@@norwich93CMP I don't have an opportunity to go to an outside range so will be shooting at a 25 yard indoor, want to sight in for 200 yard zero. Do you happen to know where I should be hitting at 25 yards for this zero using standard 150 grain garand load?
Another great video !!!! Like the way you get to the point on your videos and show your great expertise and knowledge. I got my M1 back in February from the CMP. Got the Special Rack WRA. Took it to the range and failed to feed first four rounds automatically. Talked to CMP Armorer on the phone while at the range. Long story short - sent it back and timing was adjusted. Rear sight aperture was loose and I requested they tighten it while there. Got the M1 back and works great now. Only problem is now my rear sight is tight and works great but nut on DRC windage knob appears to be split in half. One half of the nut is higher than the other half and wiggles. Do I need the spanner type tool you used in this video to try and remove the nut inside the windage knob?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Take care !!!!
Glad the video liked by you. As far as the windage nut, there is no way to remove. The entire part needs to be replaced. Those nuts have a spring retainer on them to prevent them from being remove. Yes they can be removed but at what cost, no one sells the nut alone and the entire assembly is cheap enough.
norwich93CMP Thanks for the reply !!!!! I found some online for like $8 apiece. Bought a BME and DRC. Do you like either better than the other ? Mine is just a shooter and I love it. I will disassemble rear sight and replace complete windage assembly. Thanks again and take care.
Very good video. If I may, I'd like to point out that the rounded bar you have looks to be a type 1 lock bar. They were actually made in the rounded and square type. They type 2 and 3 were the larger threads 8/36 with they type 2 being the rounded end and the type 3 being the squared end. Thy type 1 you have is a super rare and very expensive piece to obtain as they were only used for several months before they went from the shorter pinion to the longer pinion. The flush nut and type 1 LB were both 6/40 thread while the type 2 and 3 LB were 8/36 thread.
I would not restake it. The pinion end can be split easily. Also during maintenance doing that over and over again will just damage the pinion permanently. Good question.
Your short video provided all the answers I had been searching for, for an hour and half previously. Very concise and informative. Much appreciated.
Very nice compliment, thank you.
Really great programs ,Sir .Very enjoyable and helpful.
Excellent, thank you very much!!
I haven't pulled my sights apart. But if/when I decide to, so I can sheet my rifle, I know 100 % where I can find all the info I will need. Thanks for sharing the knowledge 👍 Knowledge IS Power. 🇺🇸
Your welcome and glad to be useful!!
Thanks for another great, informative video!!
Thank you!!!
@@norwich93CMP I don't have an opportunity to go to an outside range so will be shooting at a 25 yard indoor, want to sight in for 200 yard zero. Do you happen to know where I should be hitting at 25 yards for this zero using standard 150 grain garand load?
Another great video !!!! Like the way you get to the point on your videos and show your great expertise and knowledge. I got my M1 back in February from the CMP. Got the Special Rack WRA. Took it to the range and failed to feed first four rounds automatically. Talked to CMP Armorer on the phone while at the range. Long story short - sent it back and timing was adjusted. Rear sight aperture was loose and I requested they tighten it while there. Got the M1 back and works great now. Only problem is now my rear sight is tight and works great but nut on DRC windage knob appears to be split in half. One half of the nut is higher than the other half and wiggles. Do I need the spanner type tool you used in this video to try and remove the nut inside the windage knob?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Take care !!!!
Glad the video liked by you. As far as the windage nut, there is no way to remove. The entire part needs to be replaced. Those nuts have a spring retainer on them to prevent them from being remove. Yes they can be removed but at what cost, no one sells the nut alone and the entire assembly is cheap enough.
norwich93CMP
Thanks for the reply !!!!! I found some online for like $8 apiece. Bought a BME and DRC. Do you like either better than the other ? Mine is just a shooter and I love it. I will disassemble rear sight and replace complete windage assembly. Thanks again and take care.
@@terryscruggs5876 DRC but that is just my fancy.
norwich93CMP
If DRC suits your fancy then it’s good enough for me. 😁😁 Thanks and take care !!!!
Thanks!
No problem!
Very good video. If I may, I'd like to point out that the rounded bar you have looks to be a type 1 lock bar. They were actually made in the rounded and square type. They type 2 and 3 were the larger threads 8/36 with they type 2 being the rounded end and the type 3 being the squared end. Thy type 1 you have is a super rare and very expensive piece to obtain as they were only used for several months before they went from the shorter pinion to the longer pinion. The flush nut and type 1 LB were both 6/40 thread while the type 2 and 3 LB were 8/36 thread.
Do you have to re stake it after re installing
I would not restake it. The pinion end can be split easily. Also during maintenance doing that over and over again will just damage the pinion permanently. Good question.