Muffler filled with lots of oil or carbon - I bring them outside, mount in a vice and get them red hot with a propane torch. Smokes like a freight train but clears up a lot faster than running on the engine.
“0.15 ± 0.02 mm (0.006 ± 0.001 in) for the intake valve and 0.20 ± 0.02 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in) for the exhaust valve.” Thousandths is for inches, hundredths is for millimeters. No judgement - just making sure newbies understand that you were using the metric side of your feeler gauges. That engine is 6 and 8 thousandths of an inch valve clearances.
Excellent video Hester! You can tell you spent a lot of time on the engine and video. Awesome instructions and it sounds like we had the same teacher.😊
That gasket is high dallor, but on cement saws engines, I installed a new one every time I serviced it. I got a GX 390 that smoked like that Had 50/1 mix gas in it Just drained it and it ran great Good 10 bucks buy😊😊😊
Thanks for the video. I bought a 2nd identical generator for my off grid property. I’ll have to rebuild the top end on it. I’ve rebuilt 2 motors about 50 years ago. You’ve shown me a few more tips to get the job done right. Appreciated.
I've been taught that motor oil should be used when the engine will be rebuilt and immediately run, while assembly lube is better for project engines where the engine might not be started for weeks (which turns into years) . Assembly lube will keep pumped and hydrodynamic pressure from being built up, but will obviously stick around for longer than oil.
Bought a same engine for 20 euros taken apart because water somehow got in to a cylinder and it got pitted. Everything has small wear but the cylinder. Gonna hone the cylinder, lap the valves and see how it will come together, wish me luck 😅
I think I would buy the block unit. From EBay for hundred with crank rod piston rings and block Build it up for resale, cam and balance shaft should be good
Help me understand exactly what happened here. Due to a worn air filter dust got into the combustion chamber where it scored the cylinder walls. The scoring allowed oil to travel up from the crankcase where it was burned in the combustion chamber causing white smoke - Am I correct that that was the cause of the smoking? What about the metallic paste. Is that ring/cylinder wall/piston material that got washed down into the crankcase? Or is it crankshaft/gear material?
JD, you said the piston arrow is oriented towards the crankshaft. Do you mean towards the output side of the crankshaft? I already know about 2T going towards the exhaust but couldn’t remember about 4T.
Hi Nice video- I like your style. You've inspired me to do my Honda. A couple of questions. Is that an oversize piston or just a new piston with oversize rings? Is it Honda? How did you decide what oversize Piston/rings you needed? What big end and head torques did you use? Thank you
Thank you! So this rebuild was just using stock size piston and rings. Normally if it was an engine being properly rebuilt you would take a measurement of the boar in several different locations and compare it with the maximum allowable tolerances for wear in the manual and make your decision from there whether you need to go with a oversized piston and rings or you can just use a factory set. As I said in the video this motor is destined for a go kart and I was not very concerned about meeting or exceeding tolerances lol
I have a tillotson 212 with a big valve head . The block was new and looked honed . It was runing fine for a couple days and all of a sudden white smoke . Only after it warms up . The block I vented . I did install bronze guides and recut the vslve seat . It’s ported aswell . I called ec carbs and they told me to fill in the oil hole on the right side or the cylinder . The hole that’s visible when u take the head off . The head has the same hole but it’s round . He said that should help . I put the head on stroker tillotson that also knew and it did the same thing . Anyone one have any tips or experience? Pls help . Ty
@@utiprogress6586 my buddy let me barrow his billet head . I think that might reveal the issue . Ec carbs said to cap the oil hole next to the cylinder when the heads off . Lmk if I’m missing anything .
I have a old sign that Hasting piston rings put out in 1971 that shows all the different markings in order to install rings correctly It’s on my shop wall just for people to look at now 😊
Very good video! Loved the honesty of dealing with a trashed engine. The time, the money, the likely futility... still, OCD for the win! Thanks!
Thank you! I’ve been waiting for the keyboard perfectionists to burn me at the stake! Lol certain situations require certain tolerances lol
Muffler filled with lots of oil or carbon - I bring them outside, mount in a vice and get them red hot with a propane torch. Smokes like a freight train but clears up a lot faster than running on the engine.
Outstanding video! Liked the way you explained things and took time to show even tedious steps.
Thank you! I try to explain just enough without putting folks to sleep 😂
“0.15 ± 0.02 mm (0.006 ± 0.001 in) for the intake valve and 0.20 ± 0.02 mm (0.008 ± 0.001 in) for the exhaust valve.”
Thousandths is for inches, hundredths is for millimeters.
No judgement - just making sure newbies understand that you were using the metric side of your feeler gauges.
That engine is 6 and 8 thousandths of an inch valve clearances.
Excellent video Hester! You can tell you spent a lot of time on the engine and video. Awesome instructions and it sounds like we had the same teacher.😊
Thank you sir! It definitely felt like the never ending project lol
Thanks Hester! I’m picking up my very own smoking GX270 to learn on and this is just the video I was hoping to find to help guide me.
Awesome! Best of luck with it! 👍🏻
Got a 11 hp Honda today and going to rebuild it
I really like these engines 😊
They really are great motors! And they run sweet as a nut 👍🏻
That gasket is high dallor, but on cement saws engines, I installed a new one every time I serviced it.
I got a GX 390 that smoked like that
Had 50/1 mix gas in it
Just drained it and it ran great
Good 10 bucks buy😊😊😊
I agree it’s definitely worth the cost. Very lucky find with the 50/1 👍🏻
That 9 hp Honda will make a heck of a go cart engine. Kid's could pass a police cruiser with that baby.
😂😂😂 👍🏻 I can see it now!
good work Chappy.
Thanks mate! 👍🏻
Thanks for the video. I bought a 2nd identical generator for my off grid property. I’ll have to rebuild the top end on it.
I’ve rebuilt 2 motors about 50 years ago. You’ve shown me a few more tips to get the job done right. Appreciated.
Glad I could help 👍🏻
Loved the video. Thank you so much
Thank you! 👍🏻
I’ve been using lubeplate 105 grease for building engines all my life and no problems at all
It’s just handy in the tube
Never heard of that, I’ll have to look into it 👍🏻
I've been taught that motor oil should be used when the engine will be rebuilt and immediately run, while assembly lube is better for project engines where the engine might not be started for weeks (which turns into years) . Assembly lube will keep pumped and hydrodynamic pressure from being built up, but will obviously stick around for longer than oil.
Bought a same engine for 20 euros taken apart because water somehow got in to a cylinder and it got pitted. Everything has small wear but the cylinder. Gonna hone the cylinder, lap the valves and see how it will come together, wish me luck 😅
That's a score in my book! I'm sure you'll get it going! 👍🏻
Thanks for your video it helped me with my rebuild.
Glad I could help!👍🏻
I think I would buy the block unit. From EBay for hundred with crank rod piston rings and block
Build it up for resale, cam and balance shaft should be good
Definitely crossed my mind! But up in my area this engine all rebuilt would only fetch $100/$150. So I just went with the safe option
Help me understand exactly what happened here. Due to a worn air filter dust got into the combustion chamber where it scored the cylinder walls. The scoring allowed oil to travel up from the crankcase where it was burned in the combustion chamber causing white smoke - Am I correct that that was the cause of the smoking? What about the metallic paste. Is that ring/cylinder wall/piston material that got washed down into the crankcase? Or is it crankshaft/gear material?
You are basically correct, the piston rings were what took the most wear in this particular case
JD, you said the piston arrow is oriented towards the crankshaft. Do you mean towards the output side of the crankshaft?
I already know about 2T going towards the exhaust but couldn’t remember about 4T.
So in the video I said the arrow is pointing towards the "connecting rods" which what I meant to say was push rods 👍🏻
Hi Nice video- I like your style. You've inspired me to do my Honda. A couple of questions. Is that an oversize piston or just a new piston with oversize rings? Is it Honda? How did you decide what oversize Piston/rings you needed? What big end and head torques did you use?
Thank you
Thank you! So this rebuild was just using stock size piston and rings. Normally if it was an engine being properly rebuilt you would take a measurement of the boar in several different locations and compare it with the maximum allowable tolerances for wear in the manual and make your decision from there whether you need to go with a oversized piston and rings or you can just use a factory set. As I said in the video this motor is destined for a go kart and I was not very concerned about meeting or exceeding tolerances lol
Bet they were using high pressure air to blow out the air filter and that’s why it damaged so badly 😢
You're probably right
I have a tillotson 212 with a big valve head . The block was new and looked honed . It was runing fine for a couple days and all of a sudden white smoke . Only after it warms up . The block I vented . I did install bronze guides and recut the vslve seat . It’s ported aswell . I called ec carbs and they told me to fill in the oil hole on the right side or the cylinder . The hole that’s visible when u take the head off . The head has the same hole but it’s round . He said that should help . I put the head on stroker tillotson that also knew and it did the same thing . Anyone one have any tips or experience? Pls help . Ty
I think I can help 😊
@@utiprogress6586 my buddy let me barrow his billet head . I think that might reveal the issue . Ec carbs said to cap the oil hole next to the cylinder when the heads off . Lmk if I’m missing anything .
I’m sorry but I don’t have much experience with those. Hopefully someone else in the comments can help 👍🏻
Getting ready to do this. What are the torque specs?
It's been so long I don't remember what they were, but if you do a quick Google search you should be able to find the specs you're looking for 👍🏻
Okay thanks- very helpful video, tyvm!
how do you know with comp ring goes up or down
It's different Motor to Motor but sometimes there will be a letter stamped on one side and that faces up. Others there is a chamfer etc
I have a old sign that Hasting piston rings put out in 1971 that shows all the different markings in order to install rings correctly
It’s on my shop wall just for people to look at now 😊