This is a great video. I have been using a piece of angle iron that sits on 3 bunks.. works great for me and have been cutting siding for 2 years for everything on my property. Barns, sheds, interior basement wall. Woodmizer wanted a crazy (to me) amount of money for the jig that the piece of angle iron does the very same thing.
The difference in your thicknesses is because you're actually rotating the log when you add your jig. So when you raise one edge, you're actually slightly lowering the adjacent top edge. Think right triangles - with the jig cut you're cutting the hypotenuse of the triangle, when you remove the jig you're cutting the long leg. (or cathetus)
As a Mill Wright at Seattle Cedar many years ago, we cut boards and dried them, then put them through the molding machine and planed both sides, then put them through a molding machine that ripped them through a vertical or horizontal band saw. This made two boards with a smooth face and a rough face, on both boards. Seattle Door.
All i was looking for was a video or two re one siding vs another...and ran into THIS! EEE GADS! more information than perhaps I was anticipating. That said, quite the deep dive on lap siding...THX, I guess...
On my sawmill, I use the ruler/scale on the mill for reference only. I have learned that when it matters, I simply position the non moving blade right up to the timber and measure from the teeth (with highest set) to the top of the timber if the lumber I need is on top of the blade and vise verse, from the lowest set of the blade teeth to the bed rails if the timber left on the bed is what I am after. If you can't get a good measurement, you could always touch off against the end grain and use the kerf to measure. Thanks for sharing your journey!
When you have your jig under the cant you only drop blade the thickness of the thin side you want and when you remove the jig you drop blade the thickness you want on the thick side. 1/4 inch is thin side and you must go 1/2 inch down on thick side so there will still a 1/4 left on the thin side.
Lap siding installation with green lumber: 1" lap Blunt your nails 1 nail per board, per stud. Drive nails 1.5" above bottom edge so that the nail is NOT driving through the top of previous board Stop nailing once it comes into contact with the board face (don't countersink) 6 months or so later, tighten laps up by driving the nails further, but careful not to crack the board by driving too deep.
Your video got me working on this problem, and I've developed a design for a similar jig that I will be trying. I'll be milling my first jig out of black locust. I plotted the cant and cuts in SketchUp and also created a spreadsheet that calculates the cut sheet... they match. For your setup (1/2" thick edge and 1/4" thin edge) along with some assumed values (8" wide cant and 3/32 kerf), your cuts should work out to be (assuming an 8 1/2" tall cant to start): 8 1/2 flat, 8 1/8 on jig, 7 9/16 flat, 7 3/16 on jig, 6 5/8 flat, 5 5/16 on jig, 4 3/4 flat, etc. For such a flat bevel, the cut height difference is only 1/32 when comparing vertical additions to calculating using trig functions. The rotation effect is insignificant. My setup is more drastic, since the siding I'm trying to match is nominal 2x8's sawn diagonally... a much steeper bevel. In my setup, the difference is 3/32 in the first 5 cuts, so it's worth using the trig calcs. I can put this spreadsheet on Google Drive if anyone wants it. The spreadsheet is set up so any bevel siding design can be entered.
I almost got a Norwood mill, thank goodness they don't take American express lol. So yes, I am a Woodmizer guy 🧡🌲🌲😉 This is a great video buddy, I love your way of explaining your efforts and techniques. Keep up the good work 👍🧡
The side of your cant that is against the fence is a constant, however your cuts are not. When the jig is in place it's the thin side of the lapboard and when the jig is not in place it's the thick side of the lapboard. Good video...I'm sure tons of people tried the same thing and made the same mistake...all good...it makes you learned....
All it takes is two pieces of scrap plywood about 2" square and whatever thickness you want for the amount of taper in the siding. I cut my cants 8" wide x however tall I can square of the log, and use 5/8" plywood. Stick the plywood shims between the bed rails and the bottom of the cant.....make a pass. Remove the shims for the next pass, shim for the 3rd pass, and so on. Made thousand and thousands of feet of siding this way.
If the pivot point of the jig was centered under the long axis of the cant you could flip back and forth and just lower blade same amount each time I believe.
The bottom corner of your cant next to the dogs is your ONLY constant. On one cut you want it 1/4 inch, on the next cut you want it 1/2 inch thick, thus the different dropping of the blade needed to make consistent boards
And this non-sawyer/woodworker thought why not keep cutting by lowering your blade until halfway, then turn the other way. Dumb comment??? LOL. But I do love learning. Good video! (And I guess you wanted to get on record about breakfast in case Kelly had ulterior motives other than feeding you a scrumptious healthy meal!). LOL
I have zero experience making siding since I only use an Alaskan mill, but in my experience thinner pieces that are left out dry unevenly and very quickly. I think I'd get them out of the sun and maybe assign them a box fan to try and create even consistent air flow to promote even drying and shrinkage. I'm not sure about stacking them since it's hard to keep even pressure across them. Itll be interesting to see how this turn out.
DO NOT put a fan on these thin boards. You will not like the outcome. Double stack the boards. In other words, turn boards so you have a thin and thick edge together. That keeps even pressure on the stack. Remarkably, I’ve not experienced staining stacked this way.
@@backwoodshomestead482 I dont ever cut anything that thin to dry,never made any siding. I was thinking it would provide a more even air flow. You're not gonna change the outside humidity. Boards that thin are gonna dry super quick regardless. Seems like stacking them ontop of each other would create one dry face and one moist face. I've made that mistake planning wood before(only planing one side) and leaving the other side unmachined. It curls and cups badly. That's just my personal experience and thoughts though.
Even longer. The low pH in these products will keep them looong after the best before date. Also, pancakes are great if you got a bit bad milk you need to use up.
Your clapboard curl is in relation to the core of the cant. As the boards dry they curl toward the center of the cant. outting them up you have to be aware of the growth lines
I understand what you are saying, it's like putting deck boards on. On tapered siding though does it matter if you put the straight side facing out or the angled side? I wouldn't think so but not having done it yet I'm not sure.
It’s the angle of rotation. Based on radius with the bottom of the can’t as the center of you circle opposite of the jig. Jig changes top position of point where blade releases wood.
For stickering since they are so thin take two boards and put the together with the angle opposite so it looks like one board, but it is now a flat board. Granted it will only have one side that is exposed, but they are thin boards so they might dry just fine.
Yes, you are correct. That is the right way to sticker lap siding. Because the boards are so thin, they dry very fast. By essentially doubling up, you slow the drying process a little. Also, I have not experienced any uneven staining or discoloration. I expected a little.
Let it dry like you have suggested for 1month then place the boards in opposite side so the dried side is inward and wet side outward for 1 month...then ready to go...seems, in theory, that it would dry equally that way...
I really want to make my siding with my mill but am concerned with warping and cupping. I can't have any openings between the siding boards. Also I will have put the siding on green, there will be no time for drying. Is there any advice you can give me from things you have experienced?
the reasoning for the discrepancy in thickness is the side that you are measuring the drop from is always the left side. but you flip top and bottom of you siding. So with the Jig your 1/2 down represents the top edge thickness, and without the jig it represents the bottom edge thickness. so after you square it and put the jig in you need to come down 1/4, and then when you remove the jig come down 1/2
Troy, I have often thought of building my own jig. Also a jig that would do the same only to cut white oak shingles. I belive you are on the right track , although I can't wrap my head around it. I could never decide if the ship lap was worth the extra work making it for siding and the extra work sealing it (caulking) to keep from building a bee's nest. Compared to board and batten.
Lap siding seals down tight by nailing. No need to caulk anything. Board and batten leaves a space between the boards at the bottom (rest is covered with the batten) where insects can easily enter up the gap between boards.
It’s because the point of reference on the pivot side of the can’t drops below level when you put the jig in then when you remove the jig the edge of can’t comes back up to level
is this lap siding, or the square siding without the angle, become water proof for a structure/house if you add house wrap behind it? how thick would it need to be to span 8' length without sheathing behind it and still be strong enough? need to side a pole barn shop 36'x56' wondering if its more cost effective to use steel siding or go with wooden siding.. i think the price of OSB sheathing right now is on par with steel siding so no point in doing wood if i need sheathing behind it and i dont have the conventional 2" material on 16" center, just 4.5x5.5" beams on 8' centers
Dry it inside if you can, direct sun plays hell with drying. Moisture goes out the sunny side much faster. You would think it would affect only the top row but it seems to go all the way down.
To drill or countersink acrylic or ABS, you just need to take the leading edge off the drill fluke so it is vertical and make sure your feed doesn't cut deeper than that flat surface. It also helps to have minimal back rake. Keep an old drill for that job.
Just make sure if you cut 6/8 (3/4) on the thick side the thin side has to be able to be half equal as the 3/4 which would be 3/8. You can cut any thickness as long as you can split the difference between cuts equally.
My $.02 - When you add the jig, it is going further under the cant and it is raising the cant more than 1/4”. You would need to have a jig that is only holding the very edge of the cant. Think levers. The further you put the lever under the rock, the higher you can lift it.
Correct. that is why a jig supporting the entire bottom of the cant will result in accurate thickness when raised and lowered. However, once the math is worked out the manual method used works well
Love your content and your humor. Met you at the 2019 Homesteaders Conference in Front Royal, VA. Didn’t realize how tall you were from your videos until I met you in person. I run a Woodmizer LT35H with the siding jig. Haven’t noticed any difference in siding thickness,. You are correct in that the manufacturers are very proud of their jigs.good luck
Step drills do a reasonable job countersinking plexiglass depending on how big the steps are. The straight cutting edge won't split nearly as bad as a twist drill does, so when I can, I use a step drill for the hole as well.
I'm doing some research on this topic. New to sawmilling. Was wondering what happens if you were to shim the log stop side. Would you get the same results?
When you tilt the cant it raises it up; this makes a thinner board, if you lower the blade the same amount. When you lower the cant yo make it flat you hat a thicker board
How about stacking 2 boards together & reversed, wouldn't that give parallel boards & stickered, It shouldn't increase drying time too much. does that make sense? Larry
Well, as usual, I learned something from you today. I always thought that clapboards were tapered -- thinner at the top. Now I know that's called lap siding. Also, I need a "Steve" at my lake cabin! We have a terrible mouse problem. But maybe a cat would serve just as well, and not be so scary to encounter.
Yogurt is fermented- she’s right as usual. The expiration is the end of the quarantine that it is fresh. Yogurt doesn’t matter, or how old was it? No mold growing on it?
your jig raises one side of log 1/2 inch Then with log flat you need to drop 1/2 in + blade thickness Then raise one side log 1/2 with jig again and drop just blade thickness
Once you flipped the cant and made cut #2 you would have a true square again. You would need to add the jig again to get the angle back before making cut #3
@@sixoaksfarm1556 youd get two angle pieces, and then if you cut them all with the cant on this angle the boards would go back to being an even thickness, but itd be on an angle so your sides would be square to the face of the board, not what youre trying to achieve, no way around it you need to angle and unangle the cant between each cut
Is the chicken church for the Sunday birds? rim shot. Millennials, in olden days many families couldn't afford more than one meal with meat a week. It was sometimes known as the Sunday bird.
Troy, I wonder if this order of operations would work so you only have to use the jig once per log: Make your square cant, then make one cut with the jig, then remove jig. Roll your log twice (the jig cut is now on the bottom). Now run cuts to the desired width all the way down. What do ya think?
Sitting down with pen & paper, I take back my suggestion, as you just end up with a square cant again after the next cut. Fun problem to tinker with, though! Will keep toying with it.
I wonder if you could add some fine screws, nails, or something like a sawtooth picture hanger to give your shim some "tooth" to prevent it coming loose from the cant without having to mess with the clamp every time. Something that sticks up just a little proud but not too much. Let the weight of the cant bury into the tooth when it's in use but not so aggressive that it's difficult to pull off the shim every other pass.
Interesting how different parts of the country have there own hillbilly definition of things. Every clapboard I've ever seen is tapered. If it is not tapered, I would just call it a thin board.
Raise the cant edge 1/4" + lower the blade 2/4" = 3/4" on the thick side. Dont raise the cant edge + lower the blade 2/4" = 2/4" on the thick side. Edit...I should have finished watching before commenting.
LOT FOOD NOT HAVE 2 DATE ONE WHEN FOOD BAD AND NUBER 2 IS A FRSHNESS DATE FRESHNESS DATE DONT MEAN NOTHING IT JUST TO MAKE PPL BYE NEW U HAVE HAVE A FRESHNESS DATE SAY IT BAD TO DAY AND STILL GOOD FOR WEEKS OR MORE U NO GOVMENT SPEND SPEND SPEND
Troy, I also have a mill and created my lap siding jig for less than $25 plus some additional bolts and nuts I had laying around. Just bolt a couple toggle clamps in a proper sort of position on the bunks to push the edge of the cant up. The ones in the link are what I'm using. You can even adjust them to get the amount of bevel dialed in just how you want. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4GBC1P As a tip, before installation, build up some weld on the head of the bolt and grind it into a point that will bite into the bottom of the cant and help hold it into place. Works great till the cant gets really thin and light.
This is a great video. I have been using a piece of angle iron that sits on 3 bunks.. works great for me and have been cutting siding for 2 years for everything on my property. Barns, sheds, interior basement wall. Woodmizer wanted a crazy (to me) amount of money for the jig that the piece of angle iron does the very same thing.
The difference in your thicknesses is because you're actually rotating the log when you add your jig. So when you raise one edge, you're actually slightly lowering the adjacent top edge. Think right triangles - with the jig cut you're cutting the hypotenuse of the triangle, when you remove the jig you're cutting the long leg. (or cathetus)
Yes Ed, I do believe you're onto it.
I think you could converse well with my daughter who has a degree in mathematics...lol
As a Mill Wright at Seattle Cedar many years ago, we cut boards and dried them, then put them through the molding machine and planed both sides, then put them through a molding machine that ripped them through a vertical or horizontal band saw. This made two boards with a smooth face and a rough face, on both boards. Seattle Door.
All i was looking for was a video or two re one siding vs another...and ran into THIS! EEE GADS! more information than perhaps I was anticipating. That said, quite the deep dive on lap siding...THX, I guess...
Nothing better than a home made jig that works as well if not better than an expensive contraption sold in a store
On my sawmill, I use the ruler/scale on the mill for reference only. I have learned that when it matters, I simply position the non moving blade right up to the timber and measure from the teeth (with highest set) to the top of the timber if the lumber I need is on top of the blade and vise verse, from the lowest set of the blade teeth to the bed rails if the timber left on the bed is what I am after. If you can't get a good measurement, you could always touch off against the end grain and use the kerf to measure. Thanks for sharing your journey!
When you have your jig under the cant you only drop blade the thickness of the thin side you want and when you remove the jig you drop blade the thickness you want on the thick side. 1/4 inch is thin side and you must go 1/2 inch down on thick side so there will still a 1/4 left on the thin side.
Lap siding installation with green lumber:
1" lap
Blunt your nails
1 nail per board, per stud.
Drive nails 1.5" above bottom edge so that the nail is NOT driving through the top of previous board
Stop nailing once it comes into contact with the board face (don't countersink)
6 months or so later, tighten laps up by driving the nails further, but careful not to crack the board by driving too deep.
Your video got me working on this problem, and I've developed a design for a similar jig that I will be trying. I'll be milling my first jig out of black locust. I plotted the cant and cuts in SketchUp and also created a spreadsheet that calculates the cut sheet... they match. For your setup (1/2" thick edge and 1/4" thin edge) along with some assumed values (8" wide cant and 3/32 kerf), your cuts should work out to be (assuming an 8 1/2" tall cant to start): 8 1/2 flat, 8 1/8 on jig, 7 9/16 flat, 7 3/16 on jig, 6 5/8 flat, 5 5/16 on jig, 4 3/4 flat, etc. For such a flat bevel, the cut height difference is only 1/32 when comparing vertical additions to calculating using trig functions. The rotation effect is insignificant. My setup is more drastic, since the siding I'm trying to match is nominal 2x8's sawn diagonally... a much steeper bevel. In my setup, the difference is 3/32 in the first 5 cuts, so it's worth using the trig calcs. I can put this spreadsheet on Google Drive if anyone wants it. The spreadsheet is set up so any bevel siding design can be entered.
I almost got a Norwood mill, thank goodness they don't take American express lol.
So yes, I am a Woodmizer guy 🧡🌲🌲😉
This is a great video buddy, I love your way of explaining your efforts and techniques.
Keep up the good work 👍🧡
Awesome tutorial. Learn as we go. I had an older Norwood mark 4 some years back and I was lucky to get a square cant most days.
The side of your cant that is against the fence is a constant, however your cuts are not. When the jig is in place it's the thin side of the lapboard and when the jig is not in place it's the thick side of the lapboard. Good video...I'm sure tons of people tried the same thing and made the same mistake...all good...it makes you learned....
All it takes is two pieces of scrap plywood about 2" square and whatever thickness you want for the amount of taper in the siding. I cut my cants 8" wide x however tall I can square of the log, and use 5/8" plywood. Stick the plywood shims between the bed rails and the bottom of the cant.....make a pass. Remove the shims for the next pass, shim for the 3rd pass, and so on. Made thousand and thousands of feet of siding this way.
Thanks for the info. I’ve got a bunch of siding to make as soon as our snow melts. Will be making one of these. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you. Nice job and God Bless.
👍 From Cadillac Michigan
If the pivot point of the jig was centered under the long axis of the cant you could flip back and forth and just lower blade same amount each time I believe.
Cool information 😎 thanks for the tips.
Great yield!
For drying why not nail up green?
Great video sir I think a solar lumber kiln would be a great addition to your homestead.
I like your inquisitiveness and your solution.
drill a pilot hole in the jig stop at each end then screw a couple 1 1/2 inch deck screws to hold the jig on the log. Easy to remove between cuts.
Very informative. Thanks for posting. Bet Wishes
Love your lap siding jig idea! Any updates on using it?
The bottom corner of your cant next to the dogs is your ONLY constant. On one cut you want it 1/4 inch, on the next cut you want it 1/2 inch thick, thus the different dropping of the blade needed to make consistent boards
And this non-sawyer/woodworker thought why not keep cutting by lowering your blade until halfway, then turn the other way. Dumb comment??? LOL. But I do love learning. Good video! (And I guess you wanted to get on record about breakfast in case Kelly had ulterior motives other than feeding you a scrumptious healthy meal!). LOL
Good idea and well done.
I have zero experience making siding since I only use an Alaskan mill, but in my experience thinner pieces that are left out dry unevenly and very quickly. I think I'd get them out of the sun and maybe assign them a box fan to try and create even consistent air flow to promote even drying and shrinkage. I'm not sure about stacking them since it's hard to keep even pressure across them. Itll be interesting to see how this turn out.
DO NOT put a fan on these thin boards. You will not like the outcome. Double stack the boards. In other words, turn boards so you have a thin and thick edge together. That keeps even pressure on the stack. Remarkably, I’ve not experienced staining stacked this way.
@@backwoodshomestead482 I dont ever cut anything that thin to dry,never made any siding. I was thinking it would provide a more even air flow. You're not gonna change the outside humidity. Boards that thin are gonna dry super quick regardless. Seems like stacking them ontop of each other would create one dry face and one moist face. I've made that mistake planning wood before(only planing one side) and leaving the other side unmachined. It curls and cups badly. That's just my personal experience and thoughts though.
As long as yogurt is refrigerated it is still good 3 weeks later.
Even longer.
The low pH in these products will keep them looong after the best before date.
Also, pancakes are great if you got a bit bad milk you need to use up.
Your clapboard curl is in relation to the core of the cant. As the boards dry they curl toward the center of the cant. outting them up you have to be aware of the growth lines
I understand what you are saying, it's like putting deck boards on. On tapered siding though does it matter if you put the straight side facing out or the angled side? I wouldn't think so but not having done it yet I'm not sure.
My second video of yours and I decided to subscribe. good informative video.
Awesome! Only 700+ more to go! 😁
It’s the angle of rotation. Based on radius with the bottom of the can’t as the center of you circle opposite of the jig. Jig changes top position of point where blade releases wood.
Try ricking them in pairs? They'll dry fairly quickly that thin.
Lol I thought you were going to let us meet your friend Steve and then you showed the skin. I was like what. Lol.
You make interesting videos.
I wonder if you could use a pair of vise grips to hold the jig in place enough to keep from having to dog the cant. Great video!
For stickering since they are so thin take two boards and put the together with the angle opposite so it looks like one board, but it is now a flat board. Granted it will only have one side that is exposed, but they are thin boards so they might dry just fine.
Yes, you are correct. That is the right way to sticker lap siding. Because the boards are so thin, they dry very fast. By essentially doubling up, you slow the drying process a little. Also, I have not experienced any uneven staining or discoloration. I expected a little.
Let it dry like you have suggested for 1month then place the boards in opposite side so the dried side is inward and wet side outward for 1 month...then ready to go...seems, in theory, that it would dry equally that way...
Stack four wide and overlap the thin sides about 1/2 - 3/4”. This would make them level and hold them down better.
I think your final thickness on the down side of the siding should be 3/4” so it more stable and 3/8” on the top
We tried making tapered clapboard for one entire morning.
We went back to just cutting 5/4 boards for our clipboards.
I really want to make my siding with my mill but am concerned with warping and cupping. I can't have any openings between the siding boards. Also I will have put the siding on green, there will be no time for drying. Is there any advice you can give me from things you have experienced?
New subscriber. Sooooo good. Keep it up
Great video, sure beats spending hundreds of dollars for one of their fancy lap siding addons.
You got it!
When you talked about clabbered Were you referring to the yogurt or the wood?
the reasoning for the discrepancy in thickness is the side that you are measuring the drop from is always the left side. but you flip top and bottom of you siding. So with the Jig your 1/2 down represents the top edge thickness, and without the jig it represents the bottom edge thickness.
so after you square it and put the jig in you need to come down 1/4, and then when you remove the jig come down 1/2
Troy, I have often thought of building my own jig. Also a jig that would do the same only to cut white oak shingles. I belive you are on the right track , although I can't wrap my head around it. I could never decide if the ship lap was worth the extra work making it for siding and the extra work sealing it (caulking) to keep from building a bee's nest. Compared to board and batten.
Lap siding seals down tight by nailing. No need to caulk anything.
Board and batten leaves a space between the boards at the bottom (rest is covered with the batten) where insects can easily enter up the gap between boards.
It’s because the point of reference on the pivot side of the can’t drops below level when you put the jig in then when you remove the jig the edge of can’t comes back up to level
Watched The Outsider make lap siding with falling wedge
Yes. Easy, but brilliant!
is this lap siding, or the square siding without the angle, become water proof for a structure/house if you add house wrap behind it? how thick would it need to be to span 8' length without sheathing behind it and still be strong enough?
need to side a pole barn shop 36'x56' wondering if its more cost effective to use steel siding or go with wooden siding.. i think the price of OSB sheathing right now is on par with steel siding so no point in doing wood if i need sheathing behind it and i dont have the conventional 2" material on 16" center, just 4.5x5.5" beams on 8' centers
Have you thought about using the wast round cuts as siding. Like a fo Log cabin look. I am thinking about that on a tool shed I need to reside
Dry it inside if you can, direct sun plays hell with drying. Moisture goes out the sunny side much faster. You would think it would affect only the top row but it seems to go all the way down.
To drill or countersink acrylic or ABS, you just need to take the leading edge off the drill fluke so it is vertical and make sure your feed doesn't cut deeper than that flat surface. It also helps to have minimal back rake. Keep an old drill for that job.
Just make sure if you cut 6/8 (3/4) on the thick side the thin side has to be able to be half equal as the 3/4 which would be 3/8. You can cut any thickness as long as you can split the difference between cuts equally.
thank
My $.02 - When you add the jig, it is going further under the cant and it is raising the cant more than 1/4”. You would need to have a jig that is only holding the very edge of the cant. Think levers. The further you put the lever under the rock, the higher you can lift it.
Correct. that is why a jig supporting the entire bottom of the cant will result in accurate thickness when raised and lowered. However, once the math is worked out the manual method used works
well
This is the correct answer! 😊
Love your content and your humor. Met you at the 2019 Homesteaders Conference in Front Royal, VA. Didn’t realize how tall you were from your videos until I met you in person. I run a Woodmizer LT35H with the siding jig. Haven’t noticed any difference in siding thickness,. You are correct in that the manufacturers are very proud of their jigs.good luck
I didn’t realize that he was a giant in stature and greatness also until I met him years ago either 🤪
Step drills do a reasonable job countersinking plexiglass depending on how big the steps are. The straight cutting edge won't split nearly as bad as a twist drill does, so when I can, I use a step drill for the hole as well.
I'm doing some research on this topic. New to sawmilling. Was wondering what happens if you were to shim the log stop side. Would you get the same results?
What kinda wood are you useing ,,,,,are you gonna preserve it with a solution of water proffer ,,,.or with,it are a drain angle would it matter
Like your jig, but I really like the holler yur in.................
When you tilt the cant it raises it up; this makes a thinner board, if you lower the blade the same amount.
When you lower the cant yo make it flat you hat a thicker board
How about stacking 2 boards together & reversed, wouldn't that give parallel boards & stickered, It shouldn't increase drying time too much. does that make sense? Larry
The quarter inch you added with the jig
You’re making my brain hurt…
I truly enjoy your videos but it’s too early for math, I just need a shot of piglets to cure my brain ache…
♥️👍🙏🇺🇸🤓
I know, right??? LOL
Well, as usual, I learned something from you today. I always thought that clapboards were tapered -- thinner at the top. Now I know that's called lap siding. Also, I need a "Steve" at my lake cabin! We have a terrible mouse problem. But maybe a cat would serve just as well, and not be so scary to encounter.
Once you raise your can’t then put the blade to top edge of can’t then drop 1/2”
Yogurt is fermented- she’s right as usual.
The expiration is the end of the quarantine that it is fresh. Yogurt doesn’t matter, or how old was it? No mold growing on it?
did you ever indicate how much it cost for the inspection you had? how many board ft was inspected? thanks
I did not have an inspection. Merely detailing that you could
I know this is an old video, But you could take your stickers and notch a stack of em if you are going to be making these over and over.
your jig raises one side of log 1/2 inch Then with log flat you need to drop 1/2 in + blade thickness Then raise one side log 1/2 with jig again and drop just blade thickness
When raise one edge of log with gig u lower other edge slightly.
Why wouldnt you use your jig on the 1st cut then then rotate the log 180 deg so you always have the same angle on subsequent cuts?
You would still have to add the jig for the third cut or you would end up back at square )if I am playing that in my head correctly)
@@RedToolHouse But once the log is flipped after the first cut the angle would always be the same..
Once you flipped the cant and made cut #2 you would have a true square again. You would need to add the jig again to get the angle back before making cut #3
@@sixoaksfarm1556 youd get two angle pieces, and then if you cut them all with the cant on this angle the boards would go back to being an even thickness, but itd be on an angle so your sides would be square to the face of the board, not what youre trying to achieve, no way around it you need to angle and unangle the cant between each cut
Because the jig is raising the cant about a quarter inch.
Do you mind if I ask what area you're in? State? Town? It's so beautiful there!
We are in Central WV near Charleston.
Im glad your expiration date was not up
Is the chicken church for the Sunday birds?
rim shot.
Millennials, in olden days many families couldn't afford more than one meal with meat a week. It was sometimes known as the Sunday bird.
Troy, I wonder if this order of operations would work so you only have to use the jig once per log: Make your square cant, then make one cut with the jig, then remove jig. Roll your log twice (the jig cut is now on the bottom). Now run cuts to the desired width all the way down. What do ya think?
Sitting down with pen & paper, I take back my suggestion, as you just end up with a square cant again after the next cut. Fun problem to tinker with, though! Will keep toying with it.
I USE TO WORK FOR A FOOD STORE HOW I NO
I wonder if you could add some fine screws, nails, or something like a sawtooth picture hanger to give your shim some "tooth" to prevent it coming loose from the cant without having to mess with the clamp every time. Something that sticks up just a little proud but not too much. Let the weight of the cant bury into the tooth when it's in use but not so aggressive that it's difficult to pull off the shim every other pass.
To be the same drop on both cuts off the log you your alternate the jig from one side to the other each cut.
FYI that is bevel siding lap siding is flat
Interesting how different parts of the country have there own hillbilly definition of things. Every clapboard I've ever seen is tapered. If it is not tapered, I would just call it a thin board.
That jig is $2200 for wood mizer. Not sure about Norwood.
Raise the cant edge 1/4" + lower the blade 2/4" = 3/4" on the thick side.
Dont raise the cant edge + lower the blade 2/4" = 2/4" on the thick side.
Edit...I should have finished watching before commenting.
So all that wood you make and you haven’t built a shed for that sawmill yet come on man
No doubt! Trying to get the new spot for it ready. It isn't in its permanent place yet even though it has been there for 3 years!
lol
First
Couldn't you just leave the jig on and just keep cutting and just end up with a bigger scrap piece to cut a usable flat board from?
LOT FOOD NOT HAVE 2 DATE ONE WHEN FOOD BAD AND NUBER 2 IS A FRSHNESS DATE FRESHNESS DATE DONT MEAN NOTHING IT JUST TO MAKE PPL BYE NEW U HAVE HAVE A FRESHNESS DATE SAY IT BAD TO DAY AND STILL GOOD FOR WEEKS OR MORE U NO GOVMENT SPEND SPEND SPEND
So much talk for so little work,.....
Troy, I also have a mill and created my lap siding jig for less than $25 plus some additional bolts and nuts I had laying around.
Just bolt a couple toggle clamps in a proper sort of position on the bunks to push the edge of the cant up. The ones in the link are what I'm using. You can even adjust them to get the amount of bevel dialed in just how you want.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4GBC1P
As a tip, before installation, build up some weld on the head of the bolt and grind it into a point that will bite into the bottom of the cant and help hold it into place. Works great till the cant gets really thin and light.