The reason that the long exposure noise reduction takes so long to “process” is that the camera actually does two exposures. One normal and another with the shutter down. This is to cancel out sensor noise using the patterns of noise from the exposure with the shutter down. This type of noise reduction is very hard to do, if not impossible, in post production.
@@ian_worth Yes, Dark Frame Subtraction is not something that can be just 'processed out in post', however it is possible to take a 'dark frame' & save it for consecutive long exposures & then process the subtraction in post with relevant software (it's possible to do it with (Olympus) OM Systems software with files from their latest cameras. The confusion can come about with the naming Noise Reduction as opposed to Noise Filter & that is something that can be turned off, however, that still only applies to the JPEG output & not the RAW file (although may be applied in some software when first opening the RAW file).
Yes, I learned what this was a couple of years ago. It's interesting, I've seen a couple of pro RUclipsr photographers not be familiar with this. One of the more obscure features of modern cameras.
I always go straight for the back button autofocus on any camera I pick up, but that's really just a personal preference. There's also a setting that stores the focus points dependent on the camera's orientation and I really like that one as well. One setting that bothers me is my gridlines. For whatever reason the Nikon D750 and all the other Nikon DSLRs I've used have the gridlines in 4ths instead of 3rds. I'm used to it now, but I sure wish I could toggle that. Oh, I just remembered another one! Some cameras default to +EV on the left and -EV on the right. I always gotta have it the other way around.
Wow, I’ve been sitting waiting 10secs/1min for my long exposures to process, never knew that about long exposure noise reduction. Sub just for that haha saved me hours and hours of future waiting around. Videos are great mate, thanks.
Nice to hear this light Scottish tone in your voice. I turned my noise reduction off, that's all took from your video. The rest of my settings are identical. Thx for sharing your experience. 👍🏻
Just found your channel. Love it. As a fellow Fuji shooter (X-H1), I agree with your suggestions. One exception for me is I always have my level line on, and the button you use to engage it I have set for my timer. So, when I want either a 2 or 10 second delay, I just need to hit that button, select my timer setting, and I am ready to go.
I actually do most of these, but the one item that I do like is the half second image review in the viewfinder. I find when shooting casual portraits or weddings I instantly know if I got the shot and yet I find it actually doesn’t interfere at all with being able to rapidly take a series of shots. You don’t have to wait for the image to clear to take another shot. I just bought a brand new XH2 and prior to that I have two XT2s but on new XH2 I honestly I think the image review is much less than half a second. But I just discovered your channel and I’m really enjoying your videos.
Incredible Ian how fast you're improving in front of the camera. Very inspiring!... And of course, thanks for the tips! Can't wait to get your Zine I ordered last week. Thank you!!
Thanks Daniel, much appreciated buddy. I shipped on Wednesday, so hopefully it wont be too much longer. looking forward to seeing more of your videos, keep up the good work👍
I found the shoot without card feature useful as a newbie, as it gave me a chance to play with settings and features without having to go back and delete the junk photos I was generating. Otherwise, it's pretty useless... Thanks for the pro tips, much appreciated!
I use all the recommendations you suggest. I do leave the horizon line on all the time as I prefer handheld but not exclusively. I do have the display button on the Z9 that allows for 5 different displays.
All of those and some as you said. The main one for me is, shoot to edit as in set to provia then zero every setting to zero so what I am seeing on the back is nearer to a RAW file. I find the Histogram gives a more true reading with no film simulation settings.
Good advice. Most everything you encouraged to turn off, I have already done. If I need the histogram, I can easily tap it on - but for most of my shooting I find it distracting on the screen.
Electronic first curtain shutter doesn't introduce a rolling shutter effect. It moves with the same speed as the full mechanical shutter. It can introduce a bokeh truncation though. There can be an uneven exposure as well, but the camera should be able to correct it.
I have the grid lines turned off because I find it quite distracting, but I always leave my green horizon line on. It’s interesting some people go the other way, but definitely the horizon line one is one that’s really important, and I leave that on all the time.
Great video as usual..first thing I ever do is set up bbf I started using it 10 years ago…just makes sense to me. Keep up the good work Ian…all the best.
I really like your videos. Very helpful tipps for the beginners. I three weeks I'll be in Wales for the firsttime. Can't wait to get my lenses on some of those landscapes...
Another great video Ian with some excellent advice. Personally I have all the screen settings activated to compose and set my exposure etc and then press the display button to check the image as a without any distractions on the screen before pressing the shutter release. We all get used to different ways of working and see what works best. Thanks again for your efforts. Much appreciated.
Great video Ian. Discovered your channel a couple months ago...glad I did! All the settings you mentioned I've pretty much already done but the Shooting Photos Without A Card was new to me in terms of being able to shut that off. Thanks!! Also, maybe it's just me, but I've never done the RAW+jpeg. I use the second card slot for a straight up RAW backup image. Because RAW images are meant to be post-processed, I feel they're exposed a little differently than jpegs, which are intended not to be processed. So I think a properly exposed RAW file can result in a not-so-properly exposed jpeg. Besides, making a jpeg copy in post is quick and easy.
Good list. Sony has “zebras” which cause stripes in over exposed areas. I find this useful, along with the histogram, to helpful to determine which areas or objects are blown out. Sadly, sony does not have an RGB histogram until after the image is taken, nor can you display both the histogram and the level at the same time resulting in a lot of display mode switching.
My little cheap Canon 850D lets me cycle (with one button) through a few levels of on-LCD informational details. With Live View on, it's empty to minimal to more to everything (including level) and with Live View off, it cycles between nothing, level-only and shot settings. But regardless of whether the level is visible on the LCD or not, there's always a small "mini level" in corner of the viewfinder. Not a bad arrangement for an entry-level DSLR.
Pretty sure the only reason shoot without card exists is for when cameras are on display in physical shops, so you can test them. But even that isn't really justification for the setting being on by default, let alone existing at all.
Another very informative video. Pardon me for asking, as you may have addressed this elsewhere - but curious to know what kit you use for recording your audio on these treks? Thanks. Cheers.
Thanks - always like your videos. Point of interest: On my Fuji X-E3, exposures of a few minutes always result in horrible snow on the image which is hard to remove in post so I leave LENR on in those cases. I haven't tried taking a manual black frame to subract & remove in post though. It's the one Fuji weakness that irks me as I like long exposure. How are very long exposures on the X-H2?
"It's getting quite nippy as well..." When was this video recorded Ian? I'm dying in 41C heat in Texas right now, so please send some of that cool air my way!
Tip 4 - shooting with no card - is this in place for when one is doing tethered shooting and photos are loaded directly to a computer? Would seem like it would be a deliberate for the moment setting rather than a default. My idea anyway.
Cheers buddy, I couldn't think what they were called at the time, so thanks for correcting me. I should have taken a photo instead of waffling to the camera.. lol 😂
Ian, you said one press turns your level on and another press turns it off. With my Xh2, I have to cycle through the 2D and then the 3D level, thus requiring 3 presses. It's minor thing, but coming from the XT3 which is just toggle on/off I find it a little annoying. Is there a setting on the XH2 where you can just toggle the 2D level on/off that I missed? Thanks!
@@ian_worth Really the only thing I like better on my XT3 and my only criticism of the X-T5 and X-H2. When you are this picky about your camera, you pretty much have the perfect camera! Thanks Ian! 🙂👍
@@ian_worthhmm I agree interesting, wondering if it's actually the high iso NR he's thinking of that has no delay which most if not all digital cameras have
The reason that the long exposure noise reduction takes so long to “process” is that the camera actually does two exposures. One normal and another with the shutter down. This is to cancel out sensor noise using the patterns of noise from the exposure with the shutter down. This type of noise reduction is very hard to do, if not impossible, in post production.
That's interesting Martin. I guess it depends if you are happy to wait for the processing in the field. i'm probably to impatient lol
@@ian_worth Yes, Dark Frame Subtraction is not something that can be just 'processed out in post', however it is possible to take a 'dark frame' & save it for consecutive long exposures & then process the subtraction in post with relevant software (it's possible to do it with (Olympus) OM Systems software with files from their latest cameras.
The confusion can come about with the naming Noise Reduction as opposed to Noise Filter & that is something that can be turned off, however, that still only applies to the JPEG output & not the RAW file (although may be applied in some software when first opening the RAW file).
Yes, I learned what this was a couple of years ago. It's interesting, I've seen a couple of pro RUclipsr photographers not be familiar with this. One of the more obscure features of modern cameras.
Thank you, Ian, from Scottsdale, Arizona.
I always go straight for the back button autofocus on any camera I pick up, but that's really just a personal preference. There's also a setting that stores the focus points dependent on the camera's orientation and I really like that one as well. One setting that bothers me is my gridlines. For whatever reason the Nikon D750 and all the other Nikon DSLRs I've used have the gridlines in 4ths instead of 3rds. I'm used to it now, but I sure wish I could toggle that. Oh, I just remembered another one! Some cameras default to +EV on the left and -EV on the right. I always gotta have it the other way around.
Wow, I’ve been sitting waiting 10secs/1min for my long exposures to process, never knew that about long exposure noise reduction. Sub just for that haha saved me hours and hours of future waiting around. Videos are great mate, thanks.
Nice to hear this light Scottish tone in your voice. I turned my noise reduction off, that's all took from your video. The rest of my settings are identical. Thx for sharing your experience. 👍🏻
thanks buddy 👍
Just found your channel. Love it. As a fellow Fuji shooter (X-H1), I agree with your suggestions. One exception for me is I always have my level line on, and the button you use to engage it I have set for my timer. So, when I want either a 2 or 10 second delay, I just need to hit that button, select my timer setting, and I am ready to go.
Awesome, thanks buddy, great tip 👍👍
I actually do most of these, but the one item that I do like is the half second image review in the viewfinder. I find when shooting casual portraits or weddings I instantly know if I got the shot and yet I find it actually doesn’t interfere at all with being able to rapidly take a series of shots. You don’t have to wait for the image to clear to take another shot. I just bought a brand new XH2 and prior to that I have two XT2s but on new XH2 I honestly I think the image review is much less than half a second. But I just discovered your channel and I’m really enjoying your videos.
Incredible Ian how fast you're improving in front of the camera. Very inspiring!... And of course, thanks for the tips! Can't wait to get your Zine I ordered last week. Thank you!!
Thanks Daniel, much appreciated buddy. I shipped on Wednesday, so hopefully it wont be too much longer. looking forward to seeing more of your videos, keep up the good work👍
I found the shoot without card feature useful as a newbie, as it gave me a chance to play with settings and features without having to go back and delete the junk photos I was generating. Otherwise, it's pretty useless...
Thanks for the pro tips, much appreciated!
I use all the recommendations you suggest. I do leave the horizon line on all the time as I prefer handheld but not exclusively. I do have the display button on the Z9 that allows for 5 different displays.
you use the same setting as me, i have got all them on and offs... it just makes sense.
Great Video! It encouraged me to finally customize my menus etc to what is most efficient.
Great to hear!
All of those and some as you said. The main one for me is, shoot to edit as in set to provia then zero every setting to zero so what I am seeing on the back is nearer to a RAW file. I find the Histogram gives a more true reading with no film simulation settings.
Thanks Iain 👍👍
Good advice. Most everything you encouraged to turn off, I have already done. If I need the histogram, I can easily tap it on - but for most of my shooting I find it distracting on the screen.
Thanks Jon 👍
Thank you Ian. Settings listed; I will investigate!
Electronic first curtain shutter doesn't introduce a rolling shutter effect. It moves with the same speed as the full mechanical shutter. It can introduce a bokeh truncation though. There can be an uneven exposure as well, but the camera should be able to correct it.
I have the grid lines turned off because I find it quite distracting, but I always leave my green horizon line on. It’s interesting some people go the other way, but definitely the horizon line one is one that’s really important, and I leave that on all the time.
Cheers Nev, yeah we all like things a little different. 👍
@@ian_worth Yeah I agree thanks for your video
Great video as usual..first thing I ever do is set up bbf I started using it 10 years ago…just makes sense to me. Keep up the good work Ian…all the best.
Yeah i use this too, great tip 👍
Very well done. Great content shown in a creative set-up which makes it very interesting!
Thank you very much!
Hi Ian the rainbow at the start. Was it a Halos ( icebow) In the high pressure clouds.
yes i think it was 👍
I really like your videos. Very helpful tipps for the beginners. I three weeks I'll be in Wales for the firsttime. Can't wait to get my lenses on some of those landscapes...
Thanks buddy, I hope you have a great trip and get some banging photos 👍👍
Another great video Ian with some excellent advice. Personally I have all the screen settings activated to compose and set my exposure etc and then press the display button to check the image as a without any distractions on the screen before pressing the shutter release. We all get used to different ways of working and see what works best. Thanks again for your efforts. Much appreciated.
Thanks for sharing Steve, and you are right, find a method that works and stick with it, the more repetition the better 👍
Great video Ian. Discovered your channel a couple months ago...glad I did! All the settings you mentioned I've pretty much already done but the Shooting Photos Without A Card was new to me in terms of being able to shut that off. Thanks!! Also, maybe it's just me, but I've never done the RAW+jpeg. I use the second card slot for a straight up RAW backup image. Because RAW images are meant to be post-processed, I feel they're exposed a little differently than jpegs, which are intended not to be processed. So I think a properly exposed RAW file can result in a not-so-properly exposed jpeg. Besides, making a jpeg copy in post is quick and easy.
Cheers buddy, 👍
Good list. Sony has “zebras” which cause stripes in over exposed areas. I find this useful, along with the histogram, to helpful to determine which areas or objects are blown out. Sadly, sony does not have an RGB histogram until after the image is taken, nor can you display both the histogram and the level at the same time resulting in a lot of display mode switching.
Where is this location? Looks interesting.
My little cheap Canon 850D lets me cycle (with one button) through a few levels of on-LCD informational details. With Live View on, it's empty to minimal to more to everything (including level) and with Live View off, it cycles between nothing, level-only and shot settings. But regardless of whether the level is visible on the LCD or not, there's always a small "mini level" in corner of the viewfinder. Not a bad arrangement for an entry-level DSLR.
sounds awesome len 👍👍
Pretty sure the only reason shoot without card exists is for when cameras are on display in physical shops, so you can test them. But even that isn't really justification for the setting being on by default, let alone existing at all.
that's a good point 👍👍
Wales looks like paradise.
It is a beautiful place 👍
Another very informative video. Pardon me for asking, as you may have addressed this elsewhere - but curious to know what kit you use for recording your audio on these treks? Thanks. Cheers.
No worries, its the dji wireless mic 👍 Check them out on my gear page www.iworthphotos.com/my-gear
@@ian_worth Much appreciated. I should have realized the info might have been under the "MORE" dropdown. Thanks for supplying the link!
Thanks - always like your videos. Point of interest: On my Fuji X-E3, exposures of a few minutes always result in horrible snow on the image which is hard to remove in post so I leave LENR on in those cases. I haven't tried taking a manual black frame to subract & remove in post though. It's the one Fuji weakness that irks me as I like long exposure. How are very long exposures on the X-H2?
The only 'setting' I've changed is to use back button focusing, I prefer to focus my image that way.
Useful review, Ian. We have the same top ten list, which is reassuring.
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Zebra banding, helps me loads with over blown areas. I'm a newb 😅
Yeah, Zebras are great, I've only got them in video format on my camera but the blinkies work well for photo 👍🦓🦓🦓
@@ian_worth oh sorry, yes I do more video then photo. I'll have to check.
"It's getting quite nippy as well..."
When was this video recorded Ian? I'm dying in 41C heat in Texas right now, so please send some of that cool air my way!
Beginning of August David, its been a pretty cool summer so far here in wales, average temps around 18C
@@ian_worth I'm moving to Wales. See you around.
where can you rent cameras from ?, i didnt know this was a ting
WEX offers rentals 👍👍
Always great videos. Can’t wait for the next👍 thx ian
Glad you enjoyed it 😁👍
Tip 4 - shooting with no card - is this in place for when one is doing tethered shooting and photos are loaded directly to a computer? Would seem like it would be a deliberate for the moment setting rather than a default. My idea anyway.
On my camera it also re-enables image review. Probably for camera store demo use.
Hi! Matter of fact that was a "halo", which has to do with ice cristals high above cloud level.... no rain involved😏 -teachermode off-
Cheers buddy, I couldn't think what they were called at the time, so thanks for correcting me. I should have taken a photo instead of waffling to the camera.. lol 😂
I remember a wedding where the photographer had his beep sound on during the ceremony.
Ian, you said one press turns your level on and another press turns it off. With my Xh2, I have to cycle through the 2D and then the 3D level, thus requiring 3 presses. It's minor thing, but coming from the XT3 which is just toggle on/off I find it a little annoying. Is there a setting on the XH2 where you can just toggle the 2D level on/off that I missed? Thanks!
Yes you are right Edward, it does require several presses to turn it off 👍👍
@@ian_worth Really the only thing I like better on my XT3 and my only criticism of the X-T5 and X-H2. When you are this picky about your camera, you pretty much have the perfect camera! Thanks Ian! 🙂👍
Shot without card is for when the camera is demonstrated in the store.
Yeah, that's an interesting point. 👍👍
How about shoot only raw and post raw to jpeg in camera?
If you have a second card slot and want a true back up, then you need to save RAW+JPEG to both.
Yes, that is an option if you need back up Raws and jpgs 👍👍
good
I wouldn’t have guessed that a CPL would have worked with a 16mm when the sky is involved.
There's no delay with Olympus using noise reduction.
That's interesting 👍
@@ian_worthhmm I agree interesting, wondering if it's actually the high iso NR he's thinking of that has no delay which most if not all digital cameras have
nice
0:55
The shortest rainbow ever.
It is tiny.
?sub_confirmation=1
😊
New Hasselblad has built in memory, great idea why other camera companies don't?
yeah, my dji drone has built in memory, it's so handy in case you forget a card, which i have done in the past. 👍
Let me know your must change settings 👍👍
Shawn Michaels is explaining the settings he is not using
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