Hi Roee, really a great video and thanks for your effort to explain all this, because the manufacuter should include a users manual with it. I learned a lot from your video and that made it possible for me to experiment some. A few things first that anoy’s the hell out of me tough: The backlit won’t stay on and there is no setting to change that. There is also no setting anywhere to acitvate the OUT again after a protection setting turned the OUT off, such as a low voltage, amperage or power setting. However, I found a function that is not mentioned in your video and that is the “hidden” setting, below LOP. For instance, if you set the Over voltage protection (OVP) to a certain voltage and you activate it, the activation becomes lost after a reboot, but the OVP setting itself is kept. The same thing for the OUT setting, when you set it to be on, after a reboot the setting is off. Now, for the hidden setting. It not only clears the counters, but it also stores the activation settings in memory. So when you want to have an activated OVP with the OUT on on reboot, just set the voltage, activate the OVP, then activate the OUT so the relais connector is on (more over that relais later) Then go to the hidden setting below LOP, long press the OK button for about 3 sec. Then click eighter the up or down arrow and click ok again en check with the arrow button if you are back in the visible settings (yellow cursorbar) The unit will reboot every time after a power loss with the OVP set to the set voltage, is activated and the OUT is also on, even after a reboot when a protection was kicked in and that goes for every activation setting for that matter. Why is that handy to know? Well, I have solar panels and when a thick cloud comes before the sun, my solar panels will not provide the power to keep up with my power needs, draining my batteries as a golddigging bitch. So, I also connected a intelligent battery charger to my batteries and I want that thing to kick in when the wattage of my solar panels goes below my power needs, but I also want that thing to shut down when the cloud is gone. So this meter does exactly that, because I can set a OPP value to shut the charger off, but when the next cloud comes in, the charger is not turned on again. In this case, you can use another power detector board, (such as the M3050 AC current switch) that comes on the second it detects a low power tru the wire and boots the meter again, wich then starts the charger by the relais with the setings as I explained before. The extra power sensitive boards are really chap (about 12 bucks on aliexpress and you have to set the level on wich the thing has to be activated with a little potmeter, but you can use the measurements of the meter to determent that setting. Some notes about the relais connector on the board tough: Some people may think that when the setting OUT is on, the connector is shortened and you should provide power to it to make a relais work. That is WRONG and could damage your board, because the connector on the board provides power (the + and - sign below it is a dead giveaway). But beware when you put your board in self powered mode. With an external powersource, the voltage of the relais connector is always the voltage of the external power, but when you are in self powered mode, the voltage of the relais connector becomes the voltage that is put into the board (and is measured by the meter) So when you have solar panels that will generate over 40 volts and you connect a 12 volts releais to the board, the relais will burn out and you can also damage the unit, so beware! That is it for now, may be I’ll come back later to tell you about a trick to keep the backlit alway’s on. I pried the thing open and it looks like I have to find the soldering connections on the flatcable that powers the backlit and then connect them somehow to a powerpoint that is alway’s on, no matter what. If I find that, maybe I think it’s best to connect a microswitch to it to manually turn the thing on or off. But maybe this is also a nice project for you to look into?
Both the video and your response are so helpful! Have you found that this device can replace a very basic solar charge controller? I would like to use it as one for a small diy portable power bank ( in a small pelican case). I love that the display panel is above the case panel and that the wires are below it (you can see the info but the wires are safely tucked away).
Also, side note, just me personally, I think I would like the back light to power off automatically because my diy solar generator is very tiny, and low Ah. Maybe that is why it’s that way as a default. Looks like you have found a way to bypass the switch tho. 👏👏
hello, is there a way to adjust this? I would like to switch the relay on above 29v and if it goes below 29v again off but when it rises above 29v again the relay should automatically switch on again. Without having to press a button.
Hi Roee,
really a great video and thanks for your effort to explain all this, because the manufacuter should include a users manual with it.
I learned a lot from your video and that made it possible for me to experiment some.
A few things first that anoy’s the hell out of me tough:
The backlit won’t stay on and there is no setting to change that.
There is also no setting anywhere to acitvate the OUT again after a protection setting turned the OUT off, such as a low voltage, amperage or power setting.
However, I found a function that is not mentioned in your video and that is the “hidden” setting, below LOP.
For instance, if you set the Over voltage protection (OVP) to a certain voltage and you activate it, the activation becomes lost after a reboot, but the OVP setting itself is kept.
The same thing for the OUT setting, when you set it to be on, after a reboot the setting is off.
Now, for the hidden setting.
It not only clears the counters, but it also stores the activation settings in memory.
So when you want to have an activated OVP with the OUT on on reboot, just set the voltage, activate the OVP, then activate the OUT so the relais connector is on (more over that relais later)
Then go to the hidden setting below LOP, long press the OK button for about 3 sec.
Then click eighter the up or down arrow and click ok again en check with the arrow button if you are back in the visible settings (yellow cursorbar)
The unit will reboot every time after a power loss with the OVP set to the set voltage, is activated and the OUT is also on, even after a reboot when a protection was kicked in and that goes for every activation setting for that matter.
Why is that handy to know?
Well, I have solar panels and when a thick cloud comes before the sun, my solar panels will not provide the power to keep up with my power needs, draining my batteries as a golddigging bitch.
So, I also connected a intelligent battery charger to my batteries and I want that thing to kick in when the wattage of my solar panels goes below my power needs, but I also want that thing to shut down when the cloud is gone.
So this meter does exactly that, because I can set a OPP value to shut the charger off, but when the next cloud comes in, the charger is not turned on again.
In this case, you can use another power detector board, (such as the M3050 AC current switch) that comes on the second it detects a low power tru the wire and boots the meter again, wich then starts the charger by the relais with the setings as I explained before.
The extra power sensitive boards are really chap (about 12 bucks on aliexpress and you have to set the level on wich the thing has to be activated with a little potmeter, but you can use the measurements of the meter to determent that setting.
Some notes about the relais connector on the board tough:
Some people may think that when the setting OUT is on, the connector is shortened and you should provide power to it to make a relais work.
That is WRONG and could damage your board, because the connector on the board provides power (the + and - sign below it is a dead giveaway).
But beware when you put your board in self powered mode.
With an external powersource, the voltage of the relais connector is always the voltage of the external power, but when you are in self powered mode, the voltage of the relais connector becomes the voltage that is put into the board (and is measured by the meter)
So when you have solar panels that will generate over 40 volts and you connect a 12 volts releais to the board, the relais will burn out and you can also damage the unit, so beware!
That is it for now, may be I’ll come back later to tell you about a trick to keep the backlit alway’s on.
I pried the thing open and it looks like I have to find the soldering connections on the flatcable that powers the backlit and then connect them somehow to a powerpoint that is alway’s on, no matter what.
If I find that, maybe I think it’s best to connect a microswitch to it to manually turn the thing on or off.
But maybe this is also a nice project for you to look into?
thanks for the info
Both the video and your response are so helpful! Have you found that this device can replace a very basic solar charge controller? I would like to use it as one for a small diy portable power bank ( in a small pelican case). I love that the display panel is above the case panel and that the wires are below it (you can see the info but the wires are safely tucked away).
Also, side note, just me personally, I think I would like the back light to power off automatically because my diy solar generator is very tiny, and low Ah. Maybe that is why it’s that way as a default. Looks like you have found a way to bypass the switch tho. 👏👏
hello, is there a way to adjust this? I would like to switch the relay on above 29v and if it goes below 29v again off but when it rises above 29v again the relay should automatically switch on again. Without having to press a button.