Thank you for such a great video tutorial. I originally used it a few years ago when I removed all the injectors on my Discovery 2 TD5 for renovation and then refitted them. I now need to replace one of them. This is still by far the best and most comprehensive tutorial on RUclips. Superb ! Thanks again
Possibly worth pointing out that as you do up the rocker shaft bolts part of the resistance is the fact that you are compressing, opening some of the valves.
Thanks for this, I have seen others lever the injectors out, but I will splash out and get the right tool, like you. Is there no need to anneal the copper washer? All the Best Michael
Hello, thanks for the video I'm actually doing the same job, your video help very well. 👍👌👏. At one of the injector I forget to turn the camshaft so I make a scratch on the camshaft😱😩, could it have a bad effect?? Thanks in advance 😉🙏
Got a similar issue myself. The pump primes for ages. The car has cut out a few times now on driving and initial startup. If I let the pump prime for 30 seconds it fires up fine. Little bit bluish smoke too. I've got the seals and washers kit. Did it solve your issues?
I seemed to have multiple issues, but this solved the diesel In the engine oil , my fuel pump still has a long prime run, but if it has never had an actual starting issue, it always fired straight away, regardless of me waiting for the glow plugs or pump to prime. It may be worth a new fuel filter and a clean up of the fuel filter housing I let’s and outlets too, good luck.
@@intensewalkera its away to the specialist. I've done the air bleed valve and cleaned up all unions on the filter housing. Aswell as a new filter. Fuel pressure regulator changed too for good measure. Cut out 3 times on way to garage. Right bitch to restart.
It will be interesting to see what the problem turns out to be, let me know. It’s not a bad thing to maintain those things anyway, they tend be neglected, so you can at least cross those off you to do list.
Before starting did you unhook neg on battery? Did you leave earth points attached? I need to do the seals and o rings on a td5 90 and have read too many forums, is the highest part on the cam on each injector rocker the lowest point for the injector nozzle? The closest to the piston? The point to wind down the flathead screw all the way until it stops then one whole turn counter clockwise for clearance? Sorry to waffle but I won’t touch it until I understand it. Thanks for a great video on this, much appreciated, I subbed and liked.
It is a while since I did this one, it wasn’t difficult at all, just make sure you turn the landy over by hand, to make sure nothing is hitting. I left the negative on, these days everyone likes to be super safety patronising, but I lived to tell the tale without unhooking it. The high cam is the lowest point. Once you have done one , it will make easier sense, my video just shows what you are going to be facing, good luck.
My fuel pump was noisy and mine would cut out too, start fine but 30 seconds later it would cut out, it ended up being a dirty earth connection, but I’d already ordered a new original fuel pump, I fitted it and I can never hear it priming now, the noisy one I pulled out was a cheap Chinese make, worth paying extra for an original one in my opinion.
Having a good earth point and adding a couple of extra ones is worth doing, it fixed a lot of my quirky issues, I ended up running an Earth from the battery direct to the starter motor fixing stud, it will save your handbrake cable in the long run, as when things go wonky, the handbrake cable will short out and melt. My fuel pump is still priming a lot , but the vehicle is left standing a lot, so I put it down to that.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for such a great video tutorial. I originally used it a few years ago when I removed all the injectors on my Discovery 2 TD5 for renovation and then refitted them. I now need to replace one of them. This is still by far the best and most comprehensive tutorial on RUclips. Superb ! Thanks again
Possibly worth pointing out that as you do up the rocker shaft bolts part of the resistance is the fact that you are compressing, opening some of the valves.
Thanks for this, I have seen others lever the injectors out, but I will splash out and get the right tool, like you. Is there no need to anneal the copper washer? All the Best Michael
How did you clean the carbon off the injector? I can't get the new washer on. Good video ta mate
Superbe tutoriel, ça vas m'aider à faire le mien!!👍👍
Well done you 👏 good video thanks been a great help 👍 regards from Spain 🇪🇸
👍
Thanks for a very good video, like the attention to detail .. best on the subject I have seen
Hello, thanks for the video I'm actually doing the same job, your video help very well. 👍👌👏.
At one of the injector I forget to turn the camshaft so I make a scratch on the camshaft😱😩, could it have a bad effect?? Thanks in advance 😉🙏
Very good and useful video - thanks!
Got a similar issue myself. The pump primes for ages. The car has cut out a few times now on driving and initial startup. If I let the pump prime for 30 seconds it fires up fine.
Little bit bluish smoke too.
I've got the seals and washers kit. Did it solve your issues?
I seemed to have multiple issues, but this solved the diesel In the engine oil , my fuel pump still has a long prime run, but if it has never had an actual starting issue, it always fired straight away, regardless of me waiting for the glow plugs or pump to prime. It may be worth a new fuel filter and a clean up of the fuel filter housing I let’s and outlets too, good luck.
@@intensewalkera its away to the specialist. I've done the air bleed valve and cleaned up all unions on the filter housing. Aswell as a new filter.
Fuel pressure regulator changed too for good measure. Cut out 3 times on way to garage. Right bitch to restart.
It will be interesting to see what the problem turns out to be, let me know. It’s not a bad thing to maintain those things anyway, they tend be neglected, so you can at least cross those off you to do list.
@@samparker6421 Hi Sam, what did the specialist find mate. I have the same problem as you?
Before starting did you unhook neg on battery? Did you leave earth points attached? I need to do the seals and o rings on a td5 90 and have read too many forums, is the highest part on the cam on each injector rocker the lowest point for the injector nozzle? The closest to the piston? The point to wind down the flathead screw all the way until it stops then one whole turn counter clockwise for clearance? Sorry to waffle but I won’t touch it until I understand it. Thanks for a great video on this, much appreciated, I subbed and liked.
It is a while since I did this one, it wasn’t difficult at all, just make sure you turn the landy over by hand, to make sure nothing is hitting. I left the negative on, these days everyone likes to be super safety patronising, but I lived to tell the tale without unhooking it. The high cam is the lowest point. Once you have done one , it will make easier sense, my video just shows what you are going to be facing, good luck.
@@intensewalkera thank you for your reply, i will take it steady and work on each injector one by one. Cheers
En castellano explicaria el procidimiento de extraccion y regla de calibracion del inyector
So did it fix the diesel-in-the-engine-oil issue?
Yes 👍
thanks !!!is very clear
Best example
The injector cannot hit the piston. The adjustment is to stop the cam/rocker bottoming the injector mechanism.
We're all bolts renewed with new
My fuel pump was noisy and mine would cut out too, start fine but 30 seconds later it would cut out, it ended up being a dirty earth connection, but I’d already ordered a new original fuel pump, I fitted it and I can never hear it priming now, the noisy one I pulled out was a cheap Chinese make, worth paying extra for an original one in my opinion.
Having a good earth point and adding a couple of extra ones is worth doing, it fixed a lot of my quirky issues, I ended up running an Earth from the battery direct to the starter motor fixing stud, it will save your handbrake cable in the long run, as when things go wonky, the handbrake cable will short out and melt. My fuel pump is still priming a lot , but the vehicle is left standing a lot, so I put it down to that.