The Volare’ series of videos has a vibe of when we (the back room repair guys) would buy a new bike. We considered new bikes in the box as kits, not bikes. Word would spread that someone over at a certain bike shop had a new **** on order. It was almost a party. We would sometimes watch, but always kept updated as to the progress of the build. The new bike would be given a few short test rides (usually to the bike shop), then repairs and adjustments made. A few of us would then take-off for a short “75 miler” into the mountains for a fun day. Those were good times.
With how original and low miles that Volare is, I would put the reflectors and spoke protector back on. If you decide not to, bag 'em and keep them with the bike for the next caretaker to decide if they go back on or stay off. Good stuff!!
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage I agree with bagging the original parts. I bought a Volare in '78 new, same color!, and the reflectors were off less than 24 hours later. The dork disk made it until I had a reason to pull the freewheel, but it was gone quickly as well. Not sure about the disc, but the reflectors were a legal mandate that does not need to be memorialized. I love this particular rebuild series -- I loved that bike, but I outgrew the frame and traded it for a larger Gitane frame. I wore that one out and retired it with a frame crack. I still have a few of the original parts. I have always wondered if anyone keeps their daily driver stock.
Hi John,...from Italy! Congratulations for new wonderful videos. I am a bike lover since I was 6 ..beautiful bikes Yours! I love the last restoration you did on your Schwinn Volare. My advise : black cotton rim tape and hooks should be replaced with honey color ..also the saddle.. Bye bye. waiting for your next video! Ciao
Nice series of videos on a very nice bike, thanks John! I’m 69, and I’ve loved bikes since I was 5. The guide pulley bearings are bushing type, with an inner and outer bushing shell. The outer shell is molded into the plastic pulley. Patina varies with maintenance levels more than with the age of the machine. I always clean my bikes after every ride, and always wipe excess chain lube off after every application, ditto any bearing grease or cable lube that may ooze over time. Even my 41 year old Centurion Elite RS looks pretty much like a new bike, except for a few chips and scratches from being raced and occasionally crashed or dropped over 4 decades of use. Since I like a super clean bike, I tend to clean and polish every bike that I restore or refurbish, unless the customer wants to keep a grunge patina on their build. No shade thrown either way, the customer should get what they want for their bikes. I recently scored a bike I’d dreamed of since the early 80’s: a Vitus 979 in Royal Blue. I think this one is 1989 or early 1990, has serial number E097*** (E=English threaded bb shell, [09=built in 1989, 7=July]), although there is disagreement about how to decode the serno’s stamped on the bb shells. It could also be decoded as English threaded, built in September of either 1987 or 1997. I would rule out 1987, as the rear dropouts are spaced at 130mm, and there’s no sign of having been widened from 126mm (chainstays and seatstays are laser straight between the brake bridge and/or flared tube ends). I’ve traced it through 2 previous owners, but the trail ends at 2014. I also learned that it was originally imported and sold through Paris Sport Cycles (later Park Cycles) in New Jersey. If anyone out there has additional insight about identifying Vitus 979’s, please send a reply. I have a very excited customer who wants me to upgrade the components to Ultegra 3x10 shifters, crank, and front derailleur, with a Deore XT long cage rear derailleur and 10spd 11-36t XT cassette. She will be riding it in Colorado, where a super wide range driveline is essential for anyone who values their knees. I use the same setup on my road bikes in west Texas. The mountains aren’t quite as high above sea level, but they’re just as steep, and my knees are 20 years older than hers!😎❤️ Thanks again for the great videos, I really dig your collection of vintage bikes!👍❤️
Happy New Year John, Toss the reflector's and the dork disc, try and get her down to 21 lbs, lol. l remember back in the day that was light. First thing we did was toss any extra weight we could...cut the cable's and housing's as short as possible, anything you could do without, weight wise, toss it out. Then back in the drillium days, we didn't have carbon fiber, we just got the smallest frame we could fit on, and shave everything down, and drill baby drill...kind of funny now, looking back. Thanks for the video's John, it's great to see all the vintage steel. Make's my day, much appreciated. Thank you.
Looking forward to Mike Kone's collection. Its about time a Confente got some air time on youtube. Also it will be good to hear stories about Behringer and Pino Morrioni. edit P.S. Music - fine Pace - dandy 4 episodes Great way to spend time with vintage bikes.
In the skateboarding world, there is a similar thing inside the wheel, in-between the bearings, that you're calling a sheath. We call them a spacer. They're essentially for the same reason and functioning the same way.
I would put the reflectors and extras back on the bike... it's a faithful reflection of how that lovely machine would have been supplied brand new from the dealer.... rare to have it all together these days.
No rubber gloves for me, I'm old school and love the skin on contact with all the elements, + rubber gloves over used are just another item that once they enter your bin, who knows there final resting place! Warm water soap and a nail brush, and you're ready to go. Love the bikes and content that make for a relaxing watch 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Im not excited about wearing gloves. But admittedly who knows how toxic the Clean Streak is. I figured its worth wearing gloves. Plus I have 1000s of pairs of them already! lol
@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage Hey John! Rich from Panasonic built Schwinns fb. This Volare' is so pristine, if it were me, I would setup as 1978 brand new with owners manual and catalog hanging from handlebars with string(how I remember). I do, however, disagree with your choice of black hoods. 👎
I make sure the toe strap's metal end-clamp clears the pedal's frame, so metal-to-metal interference doesn't bend & weaken it around the rivet. I appreciate / enjoy how you (detail-oriented lifer mechanic) have covered this comprehensive tear down / rebuild of a near pristine-vintage example. I hope you do a few more over the years... a similar Italian-Campy bike & then another Schwinn-Shimano (but worn by high-mileage), then followed by another Italian-Campy (rode-hard & hung-up wet, but not so wet to be excessively rusted - that's a whole 'nother story)? a great excuse to hunt for the right bikes + way to reduce your parts inventory. thx & HNY.
Hey Grumpy, IDK if I'll do another total overhaul series. These are the worst performing videos I've ever done. Getting about half the views I normally get. I'll do one more video to finish this bike. Then combine these into a 2 hour video. Then I'll go back to my regular format. I have a Full Campy Trek 970 that I'm going to do that looks trashed. But that will be more of a "before and after" video than a detailed overhaul. Check out my older vids. I overhaul a lot of campy bikes. Thanks for watching.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage absolutely - some of us can't get enough ancient Campy porn. even if lower in immediate audience, the mechanical service & resto vids are great long term references... & you seem to enjoy doing these... therapy is important in the media biz. but whatever you do, don't rely on my advice - I'm probably older than 90% of the humans on YT. cheers!
The KKT Pro-Ace pedals are very nice! I used to have a set of them. Great anodizing, precise bearing surfaces, etc. I used to have the dust cap tool, so I admit to cringing a bit when you grabbed yours with pliers. 🙂 Unfortunately, I can't of any other good way to get them off. Thanks for the video!
I cringed using the pliers. However ive done it enough times I know to just lightly grip them and make sure that the sharp end of the plier is in a grove. I've never done damage to a cap......other than the first and only one I damaged when I was sixteen! lol.
Hi John love the video's, you have a great collection of bikes all in perfect condition. You mentioned that you rode all of them from time to time but I was wondering if you had a choice which one would you prefer for ride quality and comfort.
Hi, Ive ridden most of them. not all of them. Depending on how im riding it. If Im going to do a fun 20 mile ride along the paved bike trail, I really enjoy the way my 72 paramount rides as well as my Raleigh international. I think the raleigh is more forgiving.. If I want a more spirited ride my Colnago Master PIU is a favorite!
Hi John love your videos…. In the background of one you have a Raleigh pro could you do a vid showing it….i got mine in the winter of 1981 and raced it for about 3 years before I upgraded….🧐…..to an eddy merckx……I still have it in a box….now retired I can hopefully restore it…..Thanks
I don’t mind preserving the idler pulleys in a large Zip-lok along with reflectors, dork disk, etc… and replacing them with Bulls Eye pulleys. The Bulls Eye wear better, have less drag, are period-correct vintage and using them keeps the original idler pulleys in new condition.
The one you see in the video is vintage. You can get those on Ebay.. They come as either 10-13 or 11-12 I think. Or the newer ones are four sided and have every side. I dont care for that one. But you can find the vintage ones.. Search Park Brake Wrench 12
I've got a '69/'70 vintage Schwinn Collegiate 5-speed that I'm trying to make ready to ride after 40 years in mothball. It has front & rear lights that operate from a friction generator on the back tire. Also, my speedometer/odometer isn't functioning (although there appears to be nothing wrong with the cable). Where would you suggest I try finding parts like this that match the bike's vintage? It took me a year to find correct white wall tires for it, so I'm sure these other parts are going to be harder to find. Brakes and gear mechanisms seem to be pretty good, I just need a place that repairs the speedo and generator, if parts are no longer available. My local bike shops are no help.
Most shops cant handle anything before 1990. I would go to Bikeforums.net or facebook groups that specialize in that stuff. Those speedos and generators are not collectable. But parts are out there.
A question for everyone here. Your opinion… I saw a Colnago with a red Brooks Pro and large copper rivets. It was beautiful! The original saddle on my ‘68 Paramount is long gone but I do have a black Pro I plan on using. The accent on my black Paramount is red. Change the opaque black to opaque red? I’ve also considered translucent natural. Your opinions?
Looks like Dura Ace 7100, that was out in 1977. I was thinking that since the frame was made in 1978, it could have been built with Dura Ace EX7200, if it was built up, late in the year. The Original Dura Ace didn't have a number designation given to it, but the second generation, 7100 had Dura Ace cast into the rear derailleur. I've never seen a center pull Dura Ace caliper. Every generation was side pull.
I had a Dura Ace center pull brakeset. There wasn't anything great about them. My understanding of the DA name use is they weren't settled on what to call their top level components in the early days. The brake he's working on (also a set I owned) was considered flawed. The upper arm being too thin cracked sometimes. The improved model fixed that by having the y-shape split design arm. On John's bike everything parts-wise suggests pre-1976. I guess new bikes might come with dated components? Or at least on a Schwinn. That same complete group was used by Shimano's first sponsored Euro team (Flandria-BEL.) in '73. Part numbers were a mess DA-100 and later 7100. If you look through catalogs from the 70s you'll see both older an newer parts listed. Suntour did the same with their catalogs. Online I see 7100 dated to 77 and 7200 is 1978. I think freehub hubsets started in 76. Japan and components back then make me think of how I've seen Chinese parts referred to today. Changes are rolling out without fixed models or complete year groupsets. I kind of regard today's situation as a more of a mess. Shimano set-up offices in US and Europe. Campy had great warranty support - competing meant there had to be convenient support to be taken seriously. I've said all this but didn't live it. I started seriously cycling in 80-81. I had second hand bikes and never would have thought the first gen DA would be selling as new past the mid 70s. DuraAce 7200 yes - that makes sense and was what I saw in use.
Maybe a clear dork disc that is not so noticeable. If you have ever had a drive side spoke fail at the hub you will know what I mean. Reflectors can go imho.
Hey rebuilding greg lemond, i'm not going to be original. I'm going to make it custom. Looking for a painter around Cleveland Ohio . Do you know anyone in Upper Ohio that paints bicycle. I can't find anyone.
The Volare’ series of videos has a vibe of when we (the back room repair guys) would buy a new bike. We considered new bikes in the box as kits, not bikes. Word would spread that someone over at a certain bike shop had a new **** on order. It was almost a party. We would sometimes watch, but always kept updated as to the progress of the build. The new bike would be given a few short test rides (usually to the bike shop), then repairs and adjustments made. A few of us would then take-off for a short “75 miler” into the mountains for a fun day.
Those were good times.
With how original and low miles that Volare is, I would put the reflectors and spoke protector back on. If you decide not to, bag 'em and keep them with the bike for the next caretaker to decide if they go back on or stay off. Good stuff!!
Good points!
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage I agree with bagging the original parts. I bought a Volare in '78 new, same color!, and the reflectors were off less than 24 hours later. The dork disk made it until I had a reason to pull the freewheel, but it was gone quickly as well. Not sure about the disc, but the reflectors were a legal mandate that does not need to be memorialized. I love this particular rebuild series -- I loved that bike, but I outgrew the frame and traded it for a larger Gitane frame. I wore that one out and retired it with a frame crack. I still have a few of the original parts. I have always wondered if anyone keeps their daily driver stock.
Hi John,...from Italy! Congratulations for new wonderful videos. I am a bike lover since I was 6 ..beautiful bikes Yours! I love the last restoration you did on your Schwinn Volare. My advise : black cotton rim tape and hooks should be replaced with honey color ..also the saddle.. Bye bye. waiting for your next video! Ciao
How do you know what color the Rim tape is?
Nice series of videos on a very nice bike, thanks John! I’m 69, and I’ve loved bikes since I was 5.
The guide pulley bearings are bushing type, with an inner and outer bushing shell. The outer shell is molded into the plastic pulley.
Patina varies with maintenance levels more than with the age of the machine. I always clean my bikes after every ride, and always wipe excess chain lube off after every application, ditto any bearing grease or cable lube that may ooze over time. Even my 41 year old Centurion Elite RS looks pretty much like a new bike, except for a few chips and scratches from being raced and occasionally crashed or dropped over 4 decades of use. Since I like a super clean bike, I tend to clean and polish every bike that I restore or refurbish, unless the customer wants to keep a grunge patina on their build. No shade thrown either way, the customer should get what they want for their bikes.
I recently scored a bike I’d dreamed of since the early 80’s: a Vitus 979 in Royal Blue. I think this one is 1989 or early 1990, has serial number E097*** (E=English threaded bb shell, [09=built in 1989, 7=July]), although there is disagreement about how to decode the serno’s stamped on the bb shells. It could also be decoded as English threaded, built in September of either 1987 or 1997. I would rule out 1987, as the rear dropouts are spaced at 130mm, and there’s no sign of having been widened from 126mm (chainstays and seatstays are laser straight between the brake bridge and/or flared tube ends). I’ve traced it through 2 previous owners, but the trail ends at 2014.
I also learned that it was originally imported and sold through Paris Sport Cycles (later Park Cycles) in New Jersey. If anyone out there has additional insight about identifying Vitus 979’s, please send a reply.
I have a very excited customer who wants me to upgrade the components to Ultegra 3x10 shifters, crank, and front derailleur, with a Deore XT long cage rear derailleur and 10spd 11-36t XT cassette. She will be riding it in Colorado, where a super wide range driveline is essential for anyone who values their knees. I use the same setup on my road bikes in west Texas. The mountains aren’t quite as high above sea level, but they’re just as steep, and my knees are 20 years older than hers!😎❤️
Thanks again for the great videos, I really dig your collection of vintage bikes!👍❤️
Happy New Year John,
Toss the reflector's and the dork disc, try and get her down to 21 lbs, lol. l remember back in the day that was light. First thing we did was toss any extra weight we could...cut the cable's and housing's as short as possible, anything you could do without, weight wise, toss it out.
Then back in the drillium days, we didn't have carbon fiber, we just got the smallest frame we could fit on, and shave everything down, and drill baby drill...kind of funny now, looking back.
Thanks for the video's John, it's great to see all the vintage steel.
Make's my day, much appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks Robert. I don't know if this one would get down to 21lbs! LOL.. Its not my size so not worth modifying. Best to keep this one stock
John, I learn so much from you, today my wife noted you and I both said Ahhhhh at the same time over a glittery part! Thanks!
LOL... WE love the bling!
i always start the wrap at the top as well.
vinyl and cork I wrap from the bottom.. Others from the top
Who kept reflectors on a bike back in the day, bin them I'd say. Love the bike
Thanks. I didnt reinstall them.
Those reflectors are rare. The reason is guys like me asked, “Would Eddy use them?” And then we would toss them in the garbage.
Looking forward to Mike Kone's collection. Its about time a Confente got some air time on youtube. Also it will be good to hear stories about Behringer and Pino Morrioni.
edit P.S.
Music - fine
Pace - dandy 4 episodes
Great way to spend time with vintage bikes.
Thanks for the imput!
Leave reflectors and dork disc off. Most that owned these bikes removed them in use. Enjoy your videos!
In the skateboarding world, there is a similar thing inside the wheel, in-between the bearings, that you're calling a sheath. We call them a spacer. They're essentially for the same reason and functioning the same way.
Thank you John, I'm also Doing the same with a vintage Panasonic DX 2000 road bike. Needs complete refurbishment.
Nice. Are you taking down to the frame?
In my vocabulary it’s a bushing.
prolly right!
I would put the reflectors and extras back on the bike... it's a faithful reflection of how that lovely machine would have been supplied brand new from the dealer.... rare to have it all together these days.
The chain tool has two stations; one for driving, one for adjusting. Took me several decades to realise.
Nice job John.
Thanks!
Yes, put the reflectors and spoke protector back. Looks better with them, given the overall condition of this bike.
I really enjoy your videos. I’m starting my first rebuild of an Schwinn Tempo and your Volare video is helping.
Thanks
Glad to hear that Tom.
No rubber gloves for me, I'm old school and love the skin on contact with all the elements, + rubber gloves over used are just another item that once they enter your bin, who knows there final resting place! Warm water soap and a nail brush, and you're ready to go. Love the bikes and content that make for a relaxing watch 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Im not excited about wearing gloves. But admittedly who knows how toxic the Clean Streak is. I figured its worth wearing gloves. Plus I have 1000s of pairs of them already! lol
Ok yes
@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage
Hey John! Rich from Panasonic built Schwinns fb. This Volare' is so pristine, if it were me, I would setup as 1978 brand new with owners manual and catalog hanging from handlebars with string(how I remember). I do, however, disagree with your choice of black hoods. 👎
I make sure the toe strap's metal end-clamp clears the pedal's frame, so metal-to-metal interference doesn't bend & weaken it around the rivet. I appreciate / enjoy how you (detail-oriented lifer mechanic) have covered this comprehensive tear down / rebuild of a near pristine-vintage example. I hope you do a few more over the years... a similar Italian-Campy bike & then another Schwinn-Shimano (but worn by high-mileage), then followed by another Italian-Campy (rode-hard & hung-up wet, but not so wet to be excessively rusted - that's a whole 'nother story)? a great excuse to hunt for the right bikes + way to reduce your parts inventory. thx & HNY.
Hey Grumpy, IDK if I'll do another total overhaul series. These are the worst performing videos I've ever done. Getting about half the views I normally get. I'll do one more video to finish this bike. Then combine these into a 2 hour video. Then I'll go back to my regular format. I have a Full Campy Trek 970 that I'm going to do that looks trashed. But that will be more of a "before and after" video than a detailed overhaul. Check out my older vids. I overhaul a lot of campy bikes. Thanks for watching.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage absolutely - some of us can't get enough ancient Campy porn. even if lower in immediate audience, the mechanical service & resto vids are great long term references... & you seem to enjoy doing these... therapy is important in the media biz. but whatever you do, don't rely on my advice - I'm probably older than 90% of the humans on YT. cheers!
“Bushing”
The KKT Pro-Ace pedals are very nice! I used to have a set of them. Great anodizing, precise bearing surfaces, etc. I used to have the dust cap tool, so I admit to cringing a bit when you grabbed yours with pliers. 🙂 Unfortunately, I can't of any other good way to get them off. Thanks for the video!
I cringed using the pliers. However ive done it enough times I know to just lightly grip them and make sure that the sharp end of the plier is in a grove. I've never done damage to a cap......other than the first and only one I damaged when I was sixteen! lol.
Thanks, really enjoyed that one 👍
Im glad!
Hi John love the video's, you have a great collection of bikes all in perfect condition. You mentioned that you rode all of them from time to time but I was wondering if you had a choice which one would you prefer for ride quality and comfort.
Hi, Ive ridden most of them. not all of them. Depending on how im riding it. If Im going to do a fun 20 mile ride along the paved bike trail, I really enjoy the way my 72 paramount rides as well as my Raleigh international. I think the raleigh is more forgiving.. If I want a more spirited ride my Colnago Master PIU is a favorite!
Reflectors and dork-discs: Same as you, I remove them. Also dynamos.
Hi John love your videos…. In the background of one you have a Raleigh pro could you do a vid showing it….i got mine in the winter of 1981 and raced it for about 3 years before I upgraded….🧐…..to an eddy merckx……I still have it in a box….now retired I can hopefully restore it…..Thanks
Hi Wayne. Here is a video on my 74 ruclips.net/video/rDnlekQa4rU/видео.html
Here is a video on my 80. It's an early video from when I first got started. No editing. lol ruclips.net/video/Gx6vpKQAjPs/видео.html
I'm gonna call that one part a pully axle sleeve.....and music volume is fine for me
I can't make anyone happy with the music. LOL
I would always use White Binda straps on my toe clips.
You're spoiled Bill! LOL Just kidding
I don’t mind preserving the idler pulleys in a large Zip-lok along with reflectors, dork disk, etc… and replacing them with Bulls Eye pulleys. The Bulls Eye wear better, have less drag, are period-correct vintage and using them keeps the original idler pulleys in new condition.
Bulls eyes are great. However I dont care about performance on these old bikes. Its like, if I had a 57 Chevy BelAir. Id want it to be stock.
Where did you buy the thin wrench you used to take apart the brake caliper? I need one in 12mm. Thanks.
The one you see in the video is vintage. You can get those on Ebay.. They come as either 10-13 or 11-12 I think. Or the newer ones are four sided and have every side. I dont care for that one. But you can find the vintage ones.. Search Park Brake Wrench 12
@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage Thank-you for the reply/ info. I took your advise and found one on ebay.
I've got a '69/'70 vintage Schwinn Collegiate 5-speed that I'm trying to make ready to ride after 40 years in mothball. It has front & rear lights that operate from a friction generator on the back tire. Also, my speedometer/odometer isn't functioning (although there appears to be nothing wrong with the cable). Where would you suggest I try finding parts like this that match the bike's vintage? It took me a year to find correct white wall tires for it, so I'm sure these other parts are going to be harder to find.
Brakes and gear mechanisms seem to be pretty good, I just need a place that repairs the speedo and generator, if parts are no longer available. My local bike shops are no help.
Most shops cant handle anything before 1990. I would go to Bikeforums.net or facebook groups that specialize in that stuff. Those speedos and generators are not collectable. But parts are out there.
A question for everyone here. Your opinion…
I saw a Colnago with a red Brooks Pro and large copper rivets. It was beautiful!
The original saddle on my ‘68 Paramount is long gone but I do have a black Pro I plan on using. The accent on my black Paramount is red. Change the opaque black to opaque red? I’ve also considered translucent natural. Your opinions?
Im sorry. You lost me already.
Looks like Dura Ace 7100, that was out in 1977. I was thinking that since the frame was made in 1978, it could have been built with Dura Ace EX7200, if it was built up, late in the year.
The Original Dura Ace didn't have a number designation given to it, but the second generation, 7100 had Dura Ace cast into the rear derailleur.
I've never seen a center pull Dura Ace caliper. Every generation was side pull.
interesting! Ive seen a few Dura Ace center pulls. LIke the one I pictured in the video. I just dont know what came out first. Thanks for watching
I had a Dura Ace center pull brakeset. There wasn't anything great about them. My understanding of the DA name use is they weren't settled on what to call their top level components in the early days. The brake he's working on (also a set I owned) was considered flawed. The upper arm being too thin cracked sometimes. The improved model fixed that by having the y-shape split design arm. On John's bike everything parts-wise suggests pre-1976. I guess new bikes might come with dated components? Or at least on a Schwinn. That same complete group was used by Shimano's first sponsored Euro team (Flandria-BEL.) in '73.
Part numbers were a mess DA-100 and later 7100. If you look through catalogs from the 70s you'll see both older an newer parts listed. Suntour did the same with their catalogs. Online I see 7100 dated to 77 and 7200 is 1978. I think freehub hubsets started in 76.
Japan and components back then make me think of how I've seen Chinese parts referred to today. Changes are rolling out without fixed models or complete year groupsets. I kind of regard today's situation as a more of a mess. Shimano set-up offices in US and Europe. Campy had great warranty support - competing meant there had to be convenient support to be taken seriously.
I've said all this but didn't live it. I started seriously cycling in 80-81. I had second hand bikes and never would have thought the first gen DA would be selling as new past the mid 70s. DuraAce 7200 yes - that makes sense and was what I saw in use.
Maybe a clear dork disc that is not so noticeable. If you have ever had a drive side spoke fail at the hub you will know what I mean. Reflectors can go imho.
Good Ideas. However I'm not riding this. It's too small for me. I'll probably try to trade it when I find a 23 inch in good shape!
the music is little too loud
Haha, “ Now if you have something called ( Bio-Pace ) please go ahead and remove it “. 😊.
Agreed!
Hey rebuilding greg lemond, i'm not going to be original. I'm going to make it custom.
Looking for a painter around Cleveland Ohio . Do you know anyone in Upper Ohio that paints bicycle. I can't find anyone.
Hahahaa! 650B ….. Hahaha!