Vintage Technology - Reviving a Telechron Rotor
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- This time I take you through reviving a seized Telechron Rotor. These little rotors have powered thousands of clocks from the 1940's and 1950's. With a little know-how you can get that old clock running again....
A beautiful high quality clock that should run another 60 years!
Thank you so much for this! Who would have thought that these thirsty clock motors need to be topped up every 60 years?
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. I was able to get my GE wall clock back to running perfect after following the same process to rejuvinate the rotor.
You are an excellent teacher, sir. Thank you for your informative video. Most helpful.
I read two written instructions on different sites before coming here. They basically said the same thing but 1 had no illustrations and the other only a technical schematic that was of no help. Your simple straight-forward demonstration made it all clear and when I went back and read them again it was like a light bulb (in a wire basket of course) went off in my mind.
Thanks so much for this video! I used a kiln at around 200 degrees for roughly an hour, now my clock works again.
While cleaning out my parent's house we came across a Telechron Statesman alabaster clock that barely ran because it was so dry. When I plugged it in you could hear it in the next room it was so loud, it could wake the dead, but it was working and not seized. Not being familiar with the clock I did a web search and came across this video and decided to give the repair a shot rather than tossing the clock. The process seemed easy enough, however disassembly turned out to be a challenge. The internal posts for the back cover screws were spinning freely and as a result turning the screws would not release the cover. The design of the cover screws (spring loaded) allowed me to lift the cover enough to hold the posts with small needle nose pliers thus allowing me to remove the screws. The adjustment knob was then removed by holding the adjustment post with small needle nose pliers and rotating the knob until it came off. Rather than make up the light apparatus I preheated the oven to warm (170F) and then turned it off. I placed the rotor on the oven rack and let warm up for approx 15 mins. I then took it out of the oven, placed a few drops of synthetic clock oil on the gear, allowing the reservoir to just fill, and left it to cool. After about 5 mins I put a few more drops on the gear as the previous application had already been drawn into the mechanism. While the rotor was cooling I polished the brass face, cleaned the alabaster housing and glass dome. After polishing the brass numeral face I removed any excess polish and dirt from the numeral recesses with a soft toothbrush under running water and then dried it off with a soft towel. I chose not to clean the hands and face as they were in decent shape and cleaning them can oftentimes cause more harm than good. Err on the side of caution here. The hands are very delicate, bend easily, and cleaning a clock face can leave you with less than desirable results. The face is painted and you can end up with chipped paint and/or a blotchy appearance. Once the rotor had cooled to room temp I reassembled and plugged it in. The clock is now virtually silent, so much so that you could put it on a night stand and not know it was there. The entire process didn’t take much more than 1 hr to complete.
I would not recommend using pliers to rotate the gear. I used a paper towel and a firm grip and gave it a twist. You will have to apply some pressure to move the gear as it is geared down. If the gear will not turn in this manner the clock is probably not going to work or at least not run very well.
Thanks for the video… it saved this lovely old clock from the landfill.
Great video and beautiful clock. Your spacers were reinstalled upside down, the little tabs on the end of them are supposed to go on top of the rotor to hold it tight to the plate after the screws are put back in. Thanks!
Thanks for this great video.
The way you did it is my preferred way of rejuvenating the rotor. Some will say that by doing it your way, you are leaving some of the metal particles, from past wear, inside the case, thereby allowing it to wear out even further and faster. That may be true, but after you have done what was done in the video, and the rotor runs smoothly and quietly, then there was likely not much accumulation of particles in it.
Another method is drilling a hole in the case in a manner reducing the likelihood of metal chips entering the rotor. Then you wash out the rotor with lacquer thinner or another solvent, until it comes out clean. Then fill it with the correct amount and kind of oil. Then seal the hole. Now the rotor can start a new life with clean oil. It will be a long life if the wear was minimal.
I used this video to revive my Telechron 7HA188 and it worked perfectly. Thanks for sharing this very helpful information.
Just the ticket!! Thanks. I was looking at buying a new rotor for a small fortune. You saved me that cost, and allowed me to proceed with the repair immediately. Mine was in the dash of a beautiful 1940's gas stove/range. By the way, instead of the light bulb, I put the rotor above the slot in my toaster. Worked like a champ!!
It has oil inside it already, but that oil has lost its viscosity and hardened up and that is what causes the rotor to stop.
The trick here is heating up the oil to melt it again, then add some fresh oil to help keep it that way.
I only filmed one drop of oil, but I actually put in 6 or 7 which required me to heat it up and cool it down 6 or 7 times!
RUclips only allows a 10 minute video, however, so I had to leave a lot out.
Thanks!
A-D
Thanks for showing how to service this rotor. The only thing I would add is that the gear pinions should be oiled as well. A mechanical clock needs this kind of servicing periodically as all kinds of wear can happen if the gear pinions are not oiled. The same is true of electric clocks as well.
Regards, Tom
This was a hoot! Great information. Probably some less complicated ways to heat up the rotor 😜
My father in law's telechron alarm clock stopped working and I used this to restore the rotor. Works like a charm. I am a hero to my wife.
Good work.
"Honey, have you seen the little wire basket that I keep my shampoo and conditioner in?"
First off you should say that the knob for adjusting screws on counter clock wise and off clock wise.
Thank you for sharing this!
Great job friend!I have this exact clock the statesman! Great clock.
I am completely intrigued by these clock rotors and have been working with 1930's Ingraham rotors for about a year on a restoration project covering 2 separate clocks with identical motors and rotors. I am AMAZED at the lack of information and knowledge about these Ingraham rotors and entire motors for that matter. With the Ingraham rotors I am able to actually remove the brass cover and remove all the gears for cleaning and inspection. I will be making a video about the Ingraham Electric Clock movement and rotor which is clearly sorely needed. The Ingraham motor is completely different - the motors have 2 coils and run very cool compared to a Telecron.
That's a great video and an interesting niche topic. Excellent acting by your helper as well.
An hour later and mine is back telling time. Thanks!
VERY well made video! 5-star!
Thank you!
Hey why didn't you mention the knurled nut on the time adjust rod is REVERSE threaded. ONly by watching carefully did I notice that. Makes it a LOT easier to remove once I knew that.
MANY thanks for this! You are a clock maven.
Timothy J. Horan nh
At a rummage sale, just found a Telechron 6B05, Picardy strike version.......and after rewiring the poor old cord, it seems to work fine......but now I'll oil it up......thanks!
The heating process needs to be done 7ish times which he mentions later. Oil needs to be of a lightweight synthetic variety or it will just gum up again. My question is about the reassembly of this clock.... at 8:28 minutes in the internal "spacers" with the little tabs do not appear to be installed properly.... can you clarify this?
I have successfully used Marvel Mysyery Oil . . . . . Wally World has it . . . . . or also, automotive automatic transmission fluid, as it certainly gets one hell of a work out in very HOT and demanding conditions.
Agreed. Those “spacers are upside down. Installing them like he did would cause the motor to be slightly out of alignment as the hole on one end is larger than the other.
Ok. I heated mine & added some WD40 Bicycle chain oil. But I am having a problem with it "losing" time, not keeping it properly. For example, I plugged it in and set it at 3:07 and at 3:17, it was showing approximately 13 minutes past the hour. Any ideas? Something must be binding or slipping in order for it to stall or not run consistently.
i revived a telechron ships bell clock for my aunt! it wouldent run at all! so after about a week of working on it i got it running and keeping perfect time! but my method wasnt quite as easy or conventional but it worked. i took the rotor and gently tapped it free and added oil like you did but i never heard of heating it up. hmm if i ever come accross that issue again ill try it.
1944johndeerel n
5 years later and I come across this vid haha...
Here's some thoughts I had on this and a few questions that are making me wonder about the nature of the old oil.
First, one may consider putting a nice rubber dish mat or terry cloth under the glass as you're taking things apart. The wooden base made me cringe to see that as who knows what's lurking under there but no biggie.
I'm trying to imaging if it is sealed, the old oil is inside the box, or sitting on the visible gear? What happens to the old oil when it's heated and liquid again? does the new oil penetrate through the little gear shaft into the inside? I suppose if you only need to oil it every 50 years it can take it 4-5 times
This is great information as I have a Model 4H55 and it has now slowed to a stop. What kind or type of oil should be used for this reviving of the Telechron rotor?
Very nice video. When we put oil in it every once in a while do you have to do the heating up process and that? And Also when putting oil in it every once in a awhile how much drops of oil and how often should you do it? Thank you.
Do you recommending doing this to an old rotor as a preventative measure before they get to this point?
I just got a clock very similar to this one, the 7H141. It seems to work fine except for the red dot. You didn't seem to mention anything about it. How is it supposed to work?
If that aspect hasn't also become sluggish, that indicator function is to let you know that the AC power has been off and that you need to verify to see if it is close enough to the correct time.
You rotate the cloch upside down and the indicator cavity hole should show the same color as the basic paint job. When there is a loss of power the disc drops and shows the RED dot indication.
Thank you so much for the video. I have the H141 which is the alarm clock version of your model. The pull for the alarm is missing and there is a loose hollow screw inside. Do you know where I can find to repair this for my husband. I want to surprise him. I have fixed vintage sewing machines so I hope I can handle this too. Thank you (:
Have you ever had to do any repair on the coil where the wires connect from the cord? the "paper" where the wires connect has degraded pretty badly on my old clock.
Always cut the cord off an old clock before you open it to avoid the coil from being damaged ( But if you are very careful in opening the clock you may not need to do this). You will want to replace the old cord and plug anyway (except no need to replace a ceramic plug as they can be reused for about 200 years).
The old telechron/GE coils need to have 3M Glass Cloth Electrical Tape wrapped around them twice because the old paper wrap starts to come apart with age and heat.
You can order this from amazon for about $18 (this last for a very long time):
3M Glass Cloth Electrical Tape 27, White, Rubber Thermosetting Adhesive, .75-Inch by 66-Foot
So after you wrap once time you will need to cut a hole in the tape for the metal terminal sticking out so tape can be on the rotor at the terminal. Then cut the hole again on the 2nd wrap around coil.
You need to wrap around a 2nd time for the other half of the rotor (cutting the same hole in the tape). Then cut the hole again on the 2nd wrap around coil.
Careful not to cut any wires on the coil. If a coil does not work it is either a needed wire has been cut (and the wires are so small it would be hard to reconnect it) OR a short has occurred in the clock to short the coil. Either way the coil is ruined and I throw it away (keeping the metal parts for possible future use). I use another coil from a Telechron/GE parts clocks I buy at the swap meet for
Great video- thanks a lot! What type of oil are you using?
Super lube make a synthetic oil with teflon in it I wonder in using that oil instead would work better,synthetic oils don't break down ,and the teflon would make it easyer ,I would have put on synthetic grease with teflon ,on the grears.just a thought
The rotors need more oil added than in this video. Like 1 ml or so for a rotor that has never been freshened up. 1 ml of oil will sit below the weep hole near the gear in a sump and will not leak out. These rotors were originally assembled with more of a light grease than oil. Synthetic oil + heat loosens them up nicely and a good dose of synthetic oil will keep them going for a hundred more years at least.
I paid a dollar for this pretty little clock but it didn't work. Last night I put a little oil on it and it worked. And then it didn't work. I looked up your site and followed your instructions. You never said how much oil the little canister would take. Also I wasn't able to rig up a light like you did. So I just put a little oil on it and went to bed. This morning the gear was moving. I put it back together, plugged it in and its working just fine thanks for your help.
You should have laid the glass face on a heavy cloth to prevent breaking the glass dial face. They are harder to replace than a new Rotor!
What KIND of oil? 3-in-1 or what?
Look up to the Robert Oscar post above.
when they were new, they ran sooo quiet, nary a vibration or noise.
Problem is...... the mains frequency is now different to 1945 so is the amplitude. So they now run fast.
I cringed a little bit seeing you use pliers on the rotor's gear.