Maintenance Membrane Fill Valve 95L SIAMP
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2019
- Proceed to the maintenance of 95L float valve !
This step by step video will guide you in order to rinse the membrane or to replace it if it’s dammaged (reference 34951320)
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Хобби
On an old inlet 95L the valve started clunking after a refill. No overflow, just a loud clunk at the end of the fill. As it was very old I replaced the whole inlet mechanism but 10 weeks after that it started going clunk again. I replaced the membrane and it filled silently.
I cleaned the 10 week old membrane, refitted that and then that started working silently again. Lesson: If it goes clunk, disassemble, inspect, clean and reassemble. The hole which I believe is responsible for the soft shut off is very fine and easily blocked, perhaps by lime scale in a hard water area.
TIP: Buy two Siamp membranes and put the spare in a small plastic bag and attach securely inside the cistern. That way if the membrane splits (cistern overflows) you have a replacement to hand giving you plenty of time to get a spare. I find the membranes generally last quite a few years (5+) and just as long as the old ball valve type of washer and a lot quieter.
Thank you for your confidence. Indeed, Hard water can damage the membrane and cause the inlet valve to malfunction. However, it is easy to maintain this membrane, by flushing it out or replacing it if it becomes worn. This spare part is usually available in the same store as the inlet valve.
Thanks
It worked :-)
That is good to know.
I just had to replace one of these rubber membranes in a valve where the rubber had split. After fitting the new rubber, I had quite a bit of trouble getting the valve to shut off when the cistern was full. I think the issue was low water pressure, because I had not fully opened the isolation valve. In trying to understand how the valve worked and why it was not shutting off, I removed the lever arm exposing the rear of the valve and the small hole. Water was jetting out of that small hole while filling and I placed my finger over that, shutting off escape, mimicking the action of the lever when full. I noticed a change in the sound and turned on the water fully at the isolation valve and the flow immediately stopped. Water pressure in the valve seems to be crucial - is that right?
Dear Tony, yes the pressure is crucial for all hydraulic inlet valves. Low pressure will shorten the filling time and vary the water level in the tank. Since you have fully opened your isolation valve and changed your rubber membrane, are you still having filling problems?
@@SIAMPMonaco I think the valve is now operating correctly. I really didn't understand how it worked. The system is at the house of a woman friend and I have not been back since it was fixed, but I think I would have heard if it was not working.
I’ve just replaced Siamp diaphragm washer sourced from Plumber’s supplier and the cistern is starting to fill for all of three seconds and then cuts off
I need the spare how can I buy only the diphram
Where can I buy that washer part in the UK?
Hello, you can look directly on the SIAMP UK website www.siamp.co.uk or contact the commercial team at info@siamp.co.uk
How can I buy in ksa ..soudhi arabia
I am really struggling with this. I have recently had a split membrane. I bought a new one, replaced it and now when the toilet fills and the float moves the arm up, it doesn’t shut the water off at all. When I put the old (split) membrane in it does stop! You only make 1 membrane, the float doesn’t need adjusting because even when I pull the lever all the way up without the float, it does nothing! How come this happens!?!
Hello,
Please make sure that is a SIAMP product and after check the orientation.
Siamp Team
ruclips.net/video/5gjwpWAtqkY/видео.html
How it works? I cant see any mechanical connection between valve and a floats.
As you can see on the video (1m30), the grey screw and the white arm make the link between the valve's membrane and the float. If you need further information, don't hesitate to contact us : contact@siamp.com
There is no mechanical connection! The diaphram requires a pressure differential in order to remain closed. This occurs when the lever/float is in the raised position. When the float/lever are in the upper position the float lever closes the pin-hole gallery allowing a pressure differential accros the diaphram. This pressure differential holds the diaphram in the closed position. When the float falls, the lever opens the pin-hole and the pressure differential is lost (by venting to atmosphere). The diaphram now moves (under mains pressure) and opens the inlet port.
So if the diaphram becomes split there will be an unwanted pressure build up trying to constantly close the port ! Hence the very slow fill ! A bit ironic that !
A simple but clever idea. The benefit is that re-fill time is much quicker than with a standard ball-valve. The valve is fully open untill the last few drops of re-fill. The float only falls a few cm. Whereas with the old ball-cock, flow was reducing all the time as the ball-valve progressively reduced the flow. Ever noticed that slow drip? Did it ever stop 100%?
Finaly they are much more compact as required by modern compact tanks.
@@fredtuba I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
On top of this useful video, everyone should see the other tip explaining how a little misalignment of the black rubber can cause problems - overflowing after diaphragm replacement: ruclips.net/video/5gjwpWAtqkY/видео.html