In Calgary area with a Mach E. We took it to Costco at -44F with wind chill. It did just fine. We have a garage and use a 110V to charge it. It's now sitting at my wife's work at around -46F. When she comes home it will have sat in that temperature for around 4 hours.
Here in Quebec it gets pretty cold in winter, last winter we we drove my 28kwh ioniq to go skiing in -35 deg c. What was really noticeable is the air density increase effect on drag, even without the heater, highway consumption was much higher. The other issue was actually heat loss from the cabin and windows at highway speeds, the rear would not stay warm even with the heater running 6kw, and the rear windows iced up inside. Another less obvious issue was that we could not charge the car with ac and have heating on, because the heater used all available power, so having a higher power onboard charger than 6-7kw is necessary for true cold weather use depending on the insulation.
We went away for the weekend last winter north of Montreal and had our Kona parked unplugged overnight at -30C for about 18ish hours, drove fine in the morning. Our range was terrible, but still did about 210km total with 50km left showing when we got home.
I'm in Wisconsin, and this is my first winter with my EV. Range reduction is higher than expected for sure. First car I've had where you can defrost or pre-warm the car with the push of a button the mobile app, which is fantastic. I got the AWD model and no major issues driving in snow.
It takes some planning but dealing with range reduction is doable. I used my Bolt year round last year as a daily commute vehicle, it went from maybe 240 miles of range to 160-180 in winter. A level 2 charger was a necessity with daily 60 mile drives.
Same, should be interesting with all the driving we’ll be doing over Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Picked up a portable L2 charger to take with us and try and keep the ID.4 plugged in where we can at least.
Matt: I also live in Wisconsin I opted for the RWD and have yet to have an issue with sliding (I do have winter tires on) interested to see how it does with the snow storm we are supposed to get tomorrow (December 21, 2022). If it handles as well as it has so far I will be extremely happy with my decision, also saved myself $10,000
I'd love to see identical Tesla's, one with resistive heating and one with a heat pump, to see the difference in energy consumption/range under identical scenarios.
@@lazzdkYeah, I was just going to say that. Then again, the one of his that I watched was a while ago when Tesla first offered the heat pump ..has he made a more recent test?
This is why we watch you Kyle. Having known all of this its fantastic to have this knowledge available for others who aren't as detailed oriented about EVs.
Pre-warming on charge before starting is extremely useful at the beginning of a long trip. It gets you way further on the first charge. Polestar does it too.
I had my 2021 Model 3 LR parked just outside my garage (more cars than garage) but plugged in for my first winter here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Very cold temps (down below -30C at times) with no problems at all. I have always used just the Mobile Connector. Big point here is that if you are "charging" on just 120VAC, about 1kW, that is only enough current to keep the battery warmish, but not enough to actually increase the charge in the battery. If you have 240VAC, Level 2, there is no problem whatsoever charging up. Just leave it plugged in all the time and the car will look after itself.
I'd love to see a "Camp Mode" test, or just leaving the car on for 12 hours heating the cabin. When the "What happens if you get stuck in a blizzard" folks ask, I need an answer. I've been thinking about doing the same test in my Ioniq 5 to see how much the battery percentage drops over 12 hours in the cold.
Thanks Kyle, good advice. I followed my owner's manual advice for my 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV and it works well. On cold mornings i set the temp. at about 74-76 degrees, fan at 50-70%, turn on the heated sets and heated steering wheel. As soon as the cabin is adequately warm, i turn down the cabin heat and use the heated seat and steering wheel as needed to stay comfortable. Doing so uses less energy than heating the whole cabin. Any heat setting below 72 F uses noticeably less energy. Also, my car automatically reduces the power and regen when it gets below about 10 degrees F. And it goes back to normal after the battery pack warms up.
My EV has been parked at the airport while I’m on a trip. It was at 85% when I left 2 days ago….it’s at 68% now without sentry mode on. Wasn’t expecting that much drain. It’s a 2019 Tesla M3 SR plus parked at DFW airport.
Being from Canada where we are very used to very cold temps, i just keep mine plugged into 110v and precondition before driving. But when I drive our ICE we also plug it into a block heater and leave it no lower than 1/4 tank.
For DC Fast Charging on the Chevy Bolt, it takes about 40 minutes to get over 20Kw charging at 34F. I would recommend anyone trying "Fast" charge their Bolt be prepared to wait. Side note, a warmed-up battery from a 30-mile commute vs a cold battery was only about 5-6 minutes difference between the two. I wish the bolt had preconditioning for fast charging.
I drove around 100 miles in a Bolt starting with a cold battery, then went to a DCDC. It started around 20kW so driving for a long time didn't help. What does help is leaving your car in the "on" position during charging. This activates the battery heater and you'll see the max 55kW even in cold weather (assuming you're below 50% SOC).
@@tommckinney1489 Yes, 100 miles doesn't warm up my Bolt much at 30 or so degrees, with a rate of maybe 35 kW. Next charge, about 80 miles later, went at the full rate, right away. I'm definitely constrained this winter--still waiting for my battery replacement and hard-limited to 80 percent, with charging rare in northern Michigan. I do a LOT of planning.! I will definitely try your "leave the ignition on' tip to see. THANKS! Still love it...fun to be a pioneer for a few more years.
Yeah, I'm not sure why everyone thinks driving at highway speeds warms up the battery so much. I monitor it over OBD and after an hour of highway driving it's maybe 4 or 5 degrees F above ambient. Doesn't make much of a difference. Fast charging in winter is just slow without preconditioning, no way around it (I have a Niro but similar problems).
I've done some cold weather experiments here in Idaho. Charting out some of my results in an ID. 4, I find that you loose anywhere from 2 to 2.4% of range for every degree under 47°F to 25°F and then levels off until about 40% SoC. At that point, the traction battery drastically diminished to a 1.2 mi/kWh efficiency. This is starting at 80% SoC.
One thing that I would find really interesting is charging/ range differences between a “normal” and a LFP battery model 3 in the extrem cold compared to normal temps. The rest you mentioned also sounds super interesting. Hope you find the time to record all of it.
Keep your EV plugged in, and the car will do the rest! I park my Model Y outdoors year-round, and it stays plugged in always, and charges to 80% SoC max.
Interesting, I've spent years using apps like Accubattery and reading articles to see how to extend the life of my lithium ion batteries. From laptops, to cell phones, then PEVs like the Onewheel, I can see all the lessons learned there apply directly to the batteries on EVs. I don't yet have an EV but I can feel it. This is when EVs are finally starting to get traction and enter the main stream. There are also so many exciting products for 2023, especially for a use case like mine where I don't care about acceleration performance, but I care about price, utility, tech features, and battery efficiency. My main concern is charging infrastructure, I have a feeling there will be a time period where we don't have enough.
I question if having it delay the charge is a good idea or not. It's much harder on the battery to charge a very cold battery compared to discharge an equally cold battery. I think the best action would be to start a slow to moderate charge immediately after driving (while semi-warm), and if the charge finishes before you leave that's better than letting it get cold before the charge starts.
Had my ID4 sit in freezing temps (at night), outside, unplugged, for over a month. Car looked like a popsicle. Still had 80% battery. Surprising, but not to worry so it seems.
I used to live on E. 23rd St. in Cheyenne and I’ve experienced a couple of those -30-40° windchill days. Freaking brutal! About seven or eight years ago I was driving to Cheyenne from Denver international airport and my car just could not get warm inside. I can only imagine how it would be with an electric vehicle.
It’s good to keep in mind if you’re charging outside while it freezes over, the charger can freeze into the port. Cover the port with a bag or something if it’s wet and supposed to freeze over. Warm water in a zip lock bag is good to unfreeze a charger, ask me how i know lol
I’ve been reading on the EV6 forums the folks with heat pumps complaining about the quantity and consistency of the heat (in the cabin) vs I can personally attest to having a non heat pump resistance heater EV6 and it gives out abundant “premium” electron powered heat. Perhaps that’s an interesting trade off of heat pump cars you might notice in other brands of EVs too? Or of course it might just be an EV6 heat pump car characteristic.
One test you didn't mention that I would love to see: Parked outside and no pre-conditioning nor remote-start, how long does it take get ready to go? Full defrost and cabin heat. Imagine a on a cold-soak, unconditioned car. ICE vs EV (PTC or heatpump or both). Alternate version of the test: pre-conditioning EV vs remote-start ICE. Same question: How long until the car is defrosted, defogged, and warm inside, ready to go? I would be interested to see the monitoring data on heatpump cars; can it really use much heatpump or does it rely on backup PTC for temps this cold? I like the idea of the coldsoak vs preconditioned batt efficiency test. What is the kWh/mi on a 100 mile loop, cold batt vs warm batt? Same ambient, same thick air. Interesting. Maybe you can leave the windows open and cabin heat off during the DC fast charge in-between tests, so it has to repeat approx the same amount of cabin heat for both sessions? Or just avoid using cabin heat to minimize that variable. We all know cabin heat uses a lot of power; I'm more curious about the battery and motor efficiencies themselves at various internal temps.
Be interesting to see if the heat pump versus resistive heating makes any difference at that cold of temps. Typically heat pumps are not efficient to use in temps below 30 degrees
Did you mean below -30C? Cold climate heat pumps that are rated to -25C or -30C usually have a COP of 1.6 to 2 at those temps, which means they are still much more efficient than a resistive heater.
I have a 2020 Ford Fusion Hybrid ( non-plug-in ) . For my usual weeks in spring and summer my range is usually 800-900km , in winter ( now -4 to -14C here ) the last tankful only went 652 km . The worst was a hard winter last year at 602km , so my hybrid drops considerably in cold weather . I live on a hill with a steep 450ft elevation change which hurts my range for my short daily commute. On longer runs I get much longer distance , but the cold weather still affects both my battery and the ice engine .
Good suggestions. I have a 2016 Model S living near Chicago and in winter I always pre-condition battery and heat the cabin while plugged in before I leave. Use the seat heaters and keep the cabin temp at 68. I have my car display battery % and use the energy app. Typically get 30-40% less range in sub 40 degree temps vs warmer temps. I'm fortunate to have a garage and home charging so even with the winter range loss it gets me where I need to go.
I can understand not being able to plug in but if you can manage it even low rate level 1 charging will help keep the battery warm and just maybe ad a few miles over night.
I had camp mode on last night in my 2022 my lr. only used 5% overnight. did get cold battery notice at super chargers in the morning. supposed to be 20f here in the morning. Thanks!
I left my Model Y plugged in to a 110 overnight in North Platte last winter (0F in the morning) and all that did was keep the battery from losing (net after warm-up) - I think I might have gained 1% in 10 hours. Seems to me that you plug in whenever you can when it’s cold - even if just at 110 to maintain stasis.
Anyone who can plug in even to a 120 volt outlet should do it to keep the battery a bit warmer. Still I drove my old Ford Focus Electric for six years with temps as cold as -8F. Zero problems except for obviously low range.
Does anyone know if 120v trickle is ok to leave plugged in to keep battery warm during these temps? I know 240 would be the best option. I just haven’t splurged on the copper to run a 50 amp to my garage yet.
Yeah it should be fine if you have a charge limiting feature. I leave my LFP M3 plugged in and my energy consumption goes up at most around.02 Wh per mile
I have a 235 mile drive to take with the temperatures close to 0F. I can normally make it on one charge on my Tesla Model 3 LR. Will be interesting to see how far I can get on this trip, I'm expecting to stop and supercharge at the one about 159 miles into my journey and see how much extra percent it thinks I need to make it.
Yeah I have a 200mi Atlanta to Asheville route with no fast chargers along the route. The model 3 can’t really make that distance and elevation change when it’s this cold outside. Any other time of the year is no problem.
If you have a Nissan Leaf or eNV200 you can set just a finish time with the start time blank in the charging schedule. This will let the car decide when to start charging to finish charging at the time you plan to leave.
I noticed with my Tesla some wierd things happen in the cold. I have my car set to charge to 80% every night, but in the cold it will charge to 81-83% but will have the same range as when its charged to 80% in the summer.
At -15F my Bolt Battery needs to be plugged in or it wont start. As long as you dont park for more than 4 hours without plugging in. If you have no choice park next to a power plug or within an extension cord reach of a plug. I only park outside and only level 1. Heater will take 4 hours on a level 1 just to warm the battery if cold "Canada Cold". Leave it plugged in. -45F when i wake up tomorrow.
Sorry, but I don’t even see snow in the background. 😆 Just gotta have a chuckle, when it’s currently -31F for me. Heated garage is always preferable where I’m at. Still, no Cybertruck to test with yet though. ⏳
Interested in how much range is lost in the different EV’s in really cold temps compared to the range you tested in warmer temps. I know with my Bolt in Minnesota my range goes from maybe 275 when warm to around 150 at 100% in below freezing temps.
The bolt should have a screen that shows exactly how much percent went to battery conditioning or air conditioning per trip. If it doesn't then it would be a nice feature to add on EV's because then we could see "WOW, my car is using a lot of extra battery to keep itself warm or cold along with keeping the cabin warm or cold!"
Having an attached garage for the win :-). Ours is about 55-60F right now even though the outdoor temp is currently 33F. Depending on the car, I thought that just plugging in at night will partially warm the battery as well, and that means the car doesn't have to spend as much energy heating things when you want to drive. Preconditioning the cabin is obviously another winning move.
I’m in upstate NY, arctic blast will hit here this weekend. But when not driving my Model Y it sleeps in the garage plugged in, so I’m not concerned especially after this video. I drive like any other car I’ve owned although I enjoy it more 😃
I got a new id4. My dad and I both enjoy your videos. I haven’t been past 80kW and it hasn’t been too cold. If I drive 10 or 15 miles first it will get as low as 32kW. I drove about 60 miles and then charged soon after that is how I got 80. I just can’t believe the speeds are that low when it is cool out! :/
Nice Video. Hopefully, I'll never drive below 0F temps again. The coldest temps I have experienced with a car outside all night was -58F in Eveleth MN in 1996. The Super 8 hotel room never got above 65F but felt warm. Before I jumped started my car the plastic door trim cracked when I closed the door. Basically, the petro car ran *crunchie* with no acceleration until it warmed up.
I drive a Bolt, but I'm fortunate enough to have a garage which absorbs some heat from the home through the walls, so very seldom gets below freezing. The garage also has a level 2 charger, and I typically leave the car plugged in all the time, with target charge level set to 70%. Efficiency is definitely less in cold weather, with city driving impacted much more than highway driving, but other than using more power, the car drives just fine. I have not yet had a reason to attempt a DCFC in cold weather. I did notice one strange thing though. A few weeks ago, I parked the car in the garage with target charge level at 70%, then disappeared for two weeks without driving the car at all (but left the car plugged in). When I returned, the battery somehow got up to 85% SOC, and I'm sure how this is possible. Maybe the BMS adjusts so that the same charge level becomes a higher SOC as temperatures drop?
Could you comment at some point extremely hot weather battery care if any? Have Rivian on order and my garage in Arizona gets probably 115-120 some hot days.
ohhh hey I'll be making a cold weather video too! (with my Nissan Leaf) I live in apartment and planning dinner with my dad Wednesday, plan on charging tonight, and then getting it in the morning because public charging is awesome, and incase there is someone else in my neck of the woods that wants to charge I don't and can't leave it plugged in all day, unless said place is closed. so this will be interesting! Stay Tuned!!
I'm having problems with 2018 Leaf in -30C. The heater can't keep up with the cold air! It has very little to no heat, can't defrost the windshield, ect. It seems like a poor design problem, but I wouldn't say it's typical for EVs. As I'm sure a bigger heating element would solve the problem.
Looking forward to your upcoming testing videos in the cold. Stay safe those bitter cold and wind can be life threatening. Thanks for the great content.
I’d like if you could dive into this super basic question: if preconditioning is necessary for healthy fast charging how come romping on the throttle or giving it full regen with way more kW to a cold pack is “OK?” Apparently this was brought up by T&T Emobility, a German Language RUclips channel two years ago after he looked into degradation numbers from German Teslas where he could also check their history of driving. But I’d like to know more details so maybe when you travel to Germany one I’d these times you could sit down with him on a collab and dig into this?
Requesting a multi-truck scientific tonneau cover efficiency test. Alex on Autos said it improved efficiency by 6-10% in his Lightning. I’m skeptical. Please make a definitive video! ICE owners would love to see this too.
that would be an excellent test comparison. EV with car cover or without. Not too sure how car covers are in the winter time with snow. I would imagine it would take some time to remove it everyday and stuff.
Interesting about fast acceleration and regen in the cold.. Does this mean that Yo-Yo-ing the car like you do to warm up the battery, could actually be damaging it? Maybe the safer thing to do is to let the battery heater warm up the battery and not hard use.
The Tesla prevents you from discharging too many amps until it warms but Kyle is recommending you don’t push it to that limit constantly if you’re concerned with longevity. There are lots of things cars allow you to do but there are best practices you can apply to get far more years out of it.
Do you have a bolt or anything with ultium to test? I’m interested in GM’s entry level and best battery tech and how they both compare to the rest of the market.
I really love your RUclips videos. Very informative. On a recent review of the Mercedes EQS it showed a windshield reservoir only. What about the brake & power steering fluids in this EV and others?
One point, I'm assuming that Windchill values have no bearing on batteries and that it's only the actual temperature value is relevant. Is this assumption correct?
You are correct actual temperature is what matters in these cases. The wind will cause the car/battery to cool down to the real air temperature more quickly, but it cannot make it go lower than the real air temperature. Wind chill is just an attempt to approximate what a human experiences when you combine real air temperature and wind.
@@dorvinion I had the same thought after posting my comment and I guess it would be worse if it's so cold that an emergency heater was activated. Thanks for the clarification.
I tend to keep my car charged at 80 % and always plugged in also during the summer. Perhaps too high? I'm not even using a fraction of it going to work.
Hello - love your channel! can you please make a video about Tesla LFP charging best practices, just in general? Also long term storage (30 days) of LFP with access to level 2. That would be awesome! Thanks.
My 12 volt car battery only lasts 5-7 days without driving before I have to jump it to get it started. I park outside and in the winter there could be a foot of snow I'm waiting to melt off, so I don't drive. I need a replacement car in 2023. I'm trending towards a hybrid with the optional plug-in for the extra 50 miles of range. I have no idea how electric cars will survive being unplugged outside for a week or two in temperature extremes of -10 to -20 F or 90-100F in the summer. Everybody has their garage and an outlet, I don't.
Don't forget the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Here in the south (Houston) a lot of folks just run tap water in the windshield washer. Supposed to be in the high teens (positive at least).
I hope you will be able to test an F150 Lightning, Rivian is interesting as well. Many other cars have been tested by TeslaBjørn in Norway. 😊 looking forward to your tests!
So, I don’t have one yet, if I park it outside will it loose battery just sitting there in the cold? Does it warm itself? Yes plug it in, then is there such a thing as an in car heater for electric cars to use the house electricity instead of battery? Like you would for a gas car. Then if it’s it’s in unheated parkade, I could stop at a heated underground place to charge it. So, pre condition takes how long…is it quicker because the place is heated? Is this bringing the battery up in temp? What’s happening. It’s a wind chill temp of -40c here for a few days. If I did just choose to leave it in the driveway for a few days or week….still plug it in or what.
Yes, EVs are always running a small computer to monitor the cars battery and if the temp gets too hot or too cold the computer will automatically activate an air conditioner to keep the battery at a safe temp to avoid damage to it. Luckily the batteries in EVs are pretty big and can make it through some cold nights if charged past 50 percent. But after a few nights the battery level will be drained down and need to be plugged in to a charger to start the process all over again.
Keeping it plugged in in the cold should really only warm the battery when it gets to a critical temperature, which for Tesla's I think is around -20F. I left my model 3 plugged in and out in the -10F weather during this cold snap. It never heated the battery once, nor did it have to top up the battery during the cold snap. It would have heated the battery if I turned climate on to warm the cabin before driving, or increase the charge limit.
It'll be interesting to see how your EVs perform. I've been in Cheyenne before when the temp was -26F. It is brutal. It was 1983 and I had a VW Rabbit diesel, and I forgot to put anti-gel fuel additive in the night before. Well, I couldn't go anywhere in it that day. Damaged the timing belt trying to start it. Not a good day. Good luck with the experiments!
To put some real world numbers to EV driving in winter vs non-winter. We have a 2022 Chevy Bolt. In the non-winter months I am getting: With 85% city and 15% highway 4.3-4.7 miles / kwh (6.9 - 7.6 km/kwh) and range ~300 miles (480 km) Highway at 60 mph (97 kph) 3.9 miles / kwh and range ~250 miles (400 km) Highway at 75 mph (120 kph) 3.1 miles / kwh and range ~200 miles (320 km) In December I am getting: With 85% city 15% highway 2.7 miles / kwh and range ~175 miles (281km) The Bolt reports ~ 35% of the energy used is for the climate control. The Bolt does not have a heat pump and uses resistant heating. Most of these are short trips 1 to 15 miles. On a recent 256 mile trip averaging ~55 mph (88 kph) with a 15 to 20 mph (24 to 32 kph) headwind and temperatures starting at 15F (-9C) and ending at 5F (-15C) I averaged 2.7 m/kw with a range of 175 miles. We were driving in snow and the roads were not great which explains my slower speeds. Interestingly only 12% of the energy used was for the climate control. Much less than our daily driving. Which shows the initial heating of the cabin takes more energy than keeping it warm.
Talk about fragile. I used to own a Fiat 500 Abarth and live in MN. I was terrified every time I turned the engine over when it was below freezing. Slowly let it come up to operating temp.
You and Bjørn need to get together one winter and just run a gauntlet of cars and chargers. He's in Thailand right now but maybe later this winter or next winter he can come to the USA or you to Norway. Perhaps it could be yearly talking head series!
At this low temp, with the efficiency of these heat pumps, zero. In fact the added weight would be a negative, while it's just using resistive backup heat. In less extreme cases, I'd also like to see this, but hard to get apples to apples comparison. My understanding is that it's not as big of a deal as people think, but probably worth it in consistently cold, but not this extreme, areas.
@@michaelcummins5974 Kyle listed a few cars that don't degrade so much in colder weather. Those could be the ones with heat pumps. IMHO, it would be worthwhile to formally test to be sure. Besides, more RUclips content, win-win!
@@lesliefranklin1870 at -22, no. There isn't a large scale heat pump for a home that works very well at that temp. No car sized unit can extract heat from air that cold, at least not yet. At more reasonable temperatures, sure. The heat pump will make a good difference (about 3x more efficient). The real question is when is the extra weight, space, and cost worth the gains? Probably not too often, but def has it's use cases where it would
In Calgary area with a Mach E. We took it to Costco at -44F with wind chill. It did just fine. We have a garage and use a 110V to charge it. It's now sitting at my wife's work at around -46F. When she comes home it will have sat in that temperature for around 4 hours.
Hi from Toronto !! Travelling for Christmas is inevitable, be safe and happy charging !!
Here in Quebec it gets pretty cold in winter, last winter we we drove my 28kwh ioniq to go skiing in -35 deg c. What was really noticeable is the air density increase effect on drag, even without the heater, highway consumption was much higher. The other issue was actually heat loss from the cabin and windows at highway speeds, the rear would not stay warm even with the heater running 6kw, and the rear windows iced up inside. Another less obvious issue was that we could not charge the car with ac and have heating on, because the heater used all available power, so having a higher power onboard charger than 6-7kw is necessary for true cold weather use depending on the insulation.
We went away for the weekend last winter north of Montreal and had our Kona parked unplugged overnight at -30C for about 18ish hours, drove fine in the morning. Our range was terrible, but still did about 210km total with 50km left showing when we got home.
I'm in Wisconsin, and this is my first winter with my EV. Range reduction is higher than expected for sure. First car I've had where you can defrost or pre-warm the car with the push of a button the mobile app, which is fantastic. I got the AWD model and no major issues driving in snow.
Which car do you have?
It takes some planning but dealing with range reduction is doable. I used my Bolt year round last year as a daily commute vehicle, it went from maybe 240 miles of range to 160-180 in winter. A level 2 charger was a necessity with daily 60 mile drives.
Same, should be interesting with all the driving we’ll be doing over Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Picked up a portable L2 charger to take with us and try and keep the ID.4 plugged in where we can at least.
Matt: I also live in Wisconsin I opted for the RWD and have yet to have an issue with sliding (I do have winter tires on) interested to see how it does with the snow storm we are supposed to get tomorrow (December 21, 2022). If it handles as well as it has so far I will be extremely happy with my decision, also saved myself $10,000
@@BikerJim74 Model 3
I'd love to see identical Tesla's, one with resistive heating and one with a heat pump, to see the difference in energy consumption/range under identical scenarios.
Someone did a comparison video of exactly this. The difference in energy usage is actually pretty dramatic. ruclips.net/video/GRubEJh_5gs/видео.html
Yes, I'm interested in this as well. Especially during the coldest Temps.. im in canada. So, I want the 'best' heaters
Tesla Bjørn has made such a test.
@@lazzdkYeah, I was just going to say that. Then again, the one of his that I watched was a while ago when Tesla first offered the heat pump ..has he made a more recent test?
This is why we watch you Kyle. Having known all of this its fantastic to have this knowledge available for others who aren't as detailed oriented about EVs.
Pre-warming on charge before starting is extremely useful at the beginning of a long trip. It gets you way further on the first charge. Polestar does it too.
I had my 2021 Model 3 LR parked just outside my garage (more cars than garage) but plugged in for my first winter here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Very cold temps (down below -30C at times) with no problems at all. I have always used just the Mobile Connector. Big point here is that if you are "charging" on just 120VAC, about 1kW, that is only enough current to keep the battery warmish, but not enough to actually increase the charge in the battery. If you have 240VAC, Level 2, there is no problem whatsoever charging up. Just leave it plugged in all the time and the car will look after itself.
this makes me feel better as I have the same situation this winter. I will be in extreme cold with outside 240v charging.
I'd love to see a "Camp Mode" test, or just leaving the car on for 12 hours heating the cabin. When the "What happens if you get stuck in a blizzard" folks ask, I need an answer. I've been thinking about doing the same test in my Ioniq 5 to see how much the battery percentage drops over 12 hours in the cold.
Just Check out björn nylands videos and you will get your answers
Watch Teslabjorn
Dirty Tesla did a video as well
@@T1noxx Yes Bjørn has been sleeping in EVs in these temperatures a lot
This would be great!!
Thanks Kyle, good advice. I followed my owner's manual advice for my 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV and it works well. On cold mornings i set the temp. at about 74-76 degrees, fan at 50-70%, turn on the heated sets and heated steering wheel. As soon as the cabin is adequately warm, i turn down the cabin heat and use the heated seat and steering wheel as needed to stay comfortable. Doing so uses less energy than heating the whole cabin. Any heat setting below 72 F uses noticeably less energy. Also, my car automatically reduces the power and regen when it gets below about 10 degrees F. And it goes back to normal after the battery pack warms up.
For those of us in the Northeast that live in Apartment/condo with no garage this is super helpful, thank you
My EV has been parked at the airport while I’m on a trip. It was at 85% when I left 2 days ago….it’s at 68% now without sentry mode on. Wasn’t expecting that much drain. It’s a 2019 Tesla M3 SR plus parked at DFW airport.
Being from Canada where we are very used to very cold temps, i just keep mine plugged into 110v and precondition before driving.
But when I drive our ICE we also plug it into a block heater and leave it no lower than 1/4 tank.
Also - don't apologize for a shorter video. These are great little digestible nuggets!
Departure time works well to warm the battery, as you mention.
For DC Fast Charging on the Chevy Bolt, it takes about 40 minutes to get over 20Kw charging at 34F. I would recommend anyone trying "Fast" charge their Bolt be prepared to wait. Side note, a warmed-up battery from a 30-mile commute vs a cold battery was only about 5-6 minutes difference between the two. I wish the bolt had preconditioning for fast charging.
Terrible, glad I never invested the money.
@@samusaran7317 Solid insight.
I drove around 100 miles in a Bolt starting with a cold battery, then went to a DCDC. It started around 20kW so driving for a long time didn't help. What does help is leaving your car in the "on" position during charging. This activates the battery heater and you'll see the max 55kW even in cold weather (assuming you're below 50% SOC).
@@tommckinney1489 Yes, 100 miles doesn't warm up my Bolt much at 30 or so degrees, with a rate of maybe 35 kW. Next charge, about 80 miles later, went at the full rate, right away. I'm definitely constrained this winter--still waiting for my battery replacement and hard-limited to 80 percent, with charging rare in northern Michigan. I do a LOT of planning.! I will definitely try your "leave the ignition on' tip to see. THANKS! Still love it...fun to be a pioneer for a few more years.
Yeah, I'm not sure why everyone thinks driving at highway speeds warms up the battery so much. I monitor it over OBD and after an hour of highway driving it's maybe 4 or 5 degrees F above ambient. Doesn't make much of a difference. Fast charging in winter is just slow without preconditioning, no way around it (I have a Niro but similar problems).
I've done some cold weather experiments here in Idaho. Charting out some of my results in an ID. 4, I find that you loose anywhere from 2 to 2.4% of range for every degree under 47°F to 25°F and then levels off until about 40% SoC. At that point, the traction battery drastically diminished to a 1.2 mi/kWh efficiency. This is starting at 80% SoC.
One thing that I would find really interesting is charging/ range differences between a “normal” and a LFP battery model 3 in the extrem cold compared to normal temps.
The rest you mentioned also sounds super interesting. Hope you find the time to record all of it.
LFP has lower range. However you can charge LFP to 100% every day. So it kind of cancels out.
@@河粉-k1h depends if normal means LR/P or an older SR
I have an LFP and see about 10-15% losses here in CA during the winter.
@@Zachattack199943 yeah that sounds about right with my 21 LFP M3
My first winter in my 2018 midrange 3. Using 110V been getting 35-60 miles overnight charge.
I have a 21 M3 LFP and leave my car outside in -30+ degrees Fahrenheit temps in Fairbanks Alaska and it’ runs beautifully
Keep your EV plugged in, and the car will do the rest!
I park my Model Y outdoors year-round, and it stays plugged in always, and charges to 80% SoC max.
Thank you! We need more videos like this.
Interesting, I've spent years using apps like Accubattery and reading articles to see how to extend the life of my lithium ion batteries. From laptops, to cell phones, then PEVs like the Onewheel, I can see all the lessons learned there apply directly to the batteries on EVs. I don't yet have an EV but I can feel it. This is when EVs are finally starting to get traction and enter the main stream. There are also so many exciting products for 2023, especially for a use case like mine where I don't care about acceleration performance, but I care about price, utility, tech features, and battery efficiency.
My main concern is charging infrastructure, I have a feeling there will be a time period where we don't have enough.
I question if having it delay the charge is a good idea or not. It's much harder on the battery to charge a very cold battery compared to discharge an equally cold battery. I think the best action would be to start a slow to moderate charge immediately after driving (while semi-warm), and if the charge finishes before you leave that's better than letting it get cold before the charge starts.
Thanks for the video! My first winter with my 22 Kona. I plugged my level 1 in for the night here in NY at 4 degrees F. Valuable information. Thanks
It's gonna be -10 tomr. Prayers are welcomed for my kona EV 2019 lol.
Had my ID4 sit in freezing temps (at night), outside, unplugged, for over a month. Car looked like a popsicle. Still had 80% battery. Surprising, but not to worry so it seems.
I used to live on E. 23rd St. in Cheyenne and I’ve experienced a couple of those -30-40° windchill days. Freaking brutal!
About seven or eight years ago I was driving to Cheyenne from Denver international airport and my car just could not get warm inside. I can only imagine how it would be with an electric vehicle.
It’s good to keep in mind if you’re charging outside while it freezes over, the charger can freeze into the port. Cover the port with a bag or something if it’s wet and supposed to freeze over. Warm water in a zip lock bag is good to unfreeze a charger, ask me how i know lol
Had my 2023 MY on defrost yesterday. When I got in, it was like I was in Texas in summer.
I’ve been reading on the EV6 forums the folks with heat pumps complaining about the quantity and consistency of the heat (in the cabin) vs I can personally attest to having a non heat pump resistance heater EV6 and it gives out abundant “premium” electron powered heat. Perhaps that’s an interesting trade off of heat pump cars you might notice in other brands of EVs too? Or of course it might just be an EV6 heat pump car characteristic.
Amazing video. These info are very helpful.
One test you didn't mention that I would love to see:
Parked outside and no pre-conditioning nor remote-start, how long does it take get ready to go? Full defrost and cabin heat. Imagine a on a cold-soak, unconditioned car. ICE vs EV (PTC or heatpump or both). Alternate version of the test: pre-conditioning EV vs remote-start ICE. Same question: How long until the car is defrosted, defogged, and warm inside, ready to go?
I would be interested to see the monitoring data on heatpump cars; can it really use much heatpump or does it rely on backup PTC for temps this cold?
I like the idea of the coldsoak vs preconditioned batt efficiency test. What is the kWh/mi on a 100 mile loop, cold batt vs warm batt? Same ambient, same thick air. Interesting. Maybe you can leave the windows open and cabin heat off during the DC fast charge in-between tests, so it has to repeat approx the same amount of cabin heat for both sessions? Or just avoid using cabin heat to minimize that variable. We all know cabin heat uses a lot of power; I'm more curious about the battery and motor efficiencies themselves at various internal temps.
An interesting test is how quickly would an EV charge on 120V outside when it is -30?
Who on earth bothers to charge on 120v, especially in -30 temps?
Good one. Because many people just use 120V at home. Good enough.
Be interesting to see if the heat pump versus resistive heating makes any difference at that cold of temps. Typically heat pumps are not efficient to use in temps below 30 degrees
Did you mean below -30C? Cold climate heat pumps that are rated to -25C or -30C usually have a COP of 1.6 to 2 at those temps, which means they are still much more efficient than a resistive heater.
Great timing for this video. Can't wait to see how everyone makes out in the cold!
I have a 2020 Ford Fusion Hybrid ( non-plug-in ) . For my usual weeks in spring and summer my range is usually 800-900km , in winter ( now -4 to -14C here ) the last tankful only went 652 km . The worst was a hard winter last year at 602km , so my hybrid drops considerably in cold weather .
I live on a hill with a steep 450ft elevation change which hurts my range for my short daily commute.
On longer runs I get much longer distance , but the cold weather still affects both my battery and the ice engine .
Good suggestions. I have a 2016 Model S living near Chicago and in winter I always pre-condition battery and heat the cabin while plugged in before I leave. Use the seat heaters and keep the cabin temp at 68. I have my car display battery % and use the energy app. Typically get 30-40% less range in sub 40 degree temps vs warmer temps. I'm fortunate to have a garage and home charging so even with the winter range loss it gets me where I need to go.
I can understand not being able to plug in but if you can manage it even low rate level 1 charging will help keep the battery warm and just maybe ad a few miles over night.
I had camp mode on last night in my 2022 my lr. only used 5% overnight. did get cold battery notice at super chargers in the morning. supposed to be 20f here in the morning. Thanks!
I left my Model Y plugged in to a 110 overnight in North Platte last winter (0F in the morning) and all that did was keep the battery from losing (net after warm-up) - I think I might have gained 1% in 10 hours. Seems to me that you plug in whenever you can when it’s cold - even if just at 110 to maintain stasis.
Anyone who can plug in even to a 120 volt outlet should do it to keep the battery a bit warmer.
Still I drove my old Ford Focus Electric for six years with temps as cold as -8F. Zero problems except for obviously low range.
Does anyone know if 120v trickle is ok to leave plugged in to keep battery warm during these temps? I know 240 would be the best option. I just haven’t splurged on the copper to run a 50 amp to my garage yet.
If youre charging.... Terrible for the battery to be left plugged in at 100%.
@@samusaran7317 I am pretty sure all EVs have charging limit options and Tesla LFP packs recommend full charge for daily trips.
@@uhjyuff2095 Not all EVs are created equal with little freedom in some cases.
Yeah it should be fine if you have a charge limiting feature. I leave my LFP M3 plugged in and my energy consumption goes up at most around.02 Wh per mile
Absolutely, a happy Tesla is a plugged in Tesla. It will manage what it needs and what it doesn’t accordingly.
I have a 235 mile drive to take with the temperatures close to 0F. I can normally make it on one charge on my Tesla Model 3 LR. Will be interesting to see how far I can get on this trip, I'm expecting to stop and supercharge at the one about 159 miles into my journey and see how much extra percent it thinks I need to make it.
the colder air is more dense so if you drive slower you can decrease the wind resistance.
Yeah I have a 200mi Atlanta to Asheville route with no fast chargers along the route. The model 3 can’t really make that distance and elevation change when it’s this cold outside. Any other time of the year is no problem.
If you have a Nissan Leaf or eNV200 you can set just a finish time with the start time blank in the charging schedule. This will let the car decide when to start charging to finish charging at the time you plan to leave.
Why is the thumbnail for this video a MARCUSBIL Tesla at the Arctic Circle? Did you go to the Arctic Circle in that Tesla?
Thanks for this! It doesn't get cold often here in Southern California so this was a good reminder on what to do when it does.
I noticed with my Tesla some wierd things happen in the cold. I have my car set to charge to 80% every night, but in the cold it will charge to 81-83% but will have the same range as when its charged to 80% in the summer.
That’s normal. The fluctuation can happen due to different temps when it started and finished charging.
Another experiment is use a thermal imaging camera to look for heat loss in less obvious areas that can be improved easily
At -15F my Bolt Battery needs to be plugged in or it wont start. As long as you dont park for more than 4 hours without plugging in. If you have no choice park next to a power plug or within an extension cord reach of a plug. I only park outside and only level 1. Heater will take 4 hours on a level 1 just to warm the battery if cold "Canada Cold". Leave it plugged in. -45F when i wake up tomorrow.
Sorry, but I don’t even see snow in the background. 😆
Just gotta have a chuckle, when it’s currently -31F for me. Heated garage is always preferable where I’m at. Still, no Cybertruck to test with yet though. ⏳
Which one of your friends moved to Texas? I met his Dad at an EA charger. He has a new Bolt in baby blue. Nice fellow.
Interested in how much range is lost in the different EV’s in really cold temps compared to the range you tested in warmer temps. I know with my Bolt in Minnesota my range goes from maybe 275 when warm to around 150 at 100% in below freezing temps.
The bolt should have a screen that shows exactly how much percent went to battery conditioning or air conditioning per trip. If it doesn't then it would be a nice feature to add on EV's because then we could see "WOW, my car is using a lot of extra battery to keep itself warm or cold along with keeping the cabin warm or cold!"
Heat pump makes a huge difference
Having an attached garage for the win :-). Ours is about 55-60F right now even though the outdoor temp is currently 33F. Depending on the car, I thought that just plugging in at night will partially warm the battery as well, and that means the car doesn't have to spend as much energy heating things when you want to drive. Preconditioning the cabin is obviously another winning move.
I’m in upstate NY, arctic blast will hit here this weekend. But when not driving my Model Y it sleeps in the garage plugged in, so I’m not concerned especially after this video. I drive like any other car I’ve owned although I enjoy it more 😃
I got a new id4. My dad and I both enjoy your videos. I haven’t been past 80kW and it hasn’t been too cold. If I drive 10 or 15 miles first it will get as low as 32kW. I drove about 60 miles and then charged soon after that is how I got 80. I just can’t believe the speeds are that low when it is cool out! :/
Nice Video. Hopefully, I'll never drive below 0F temps again. The coldest temps I have experienced with a car outside all night was -58F in Eveleth MN in 1996. The Super 8 hotel room never got above 65F but felt warm. Before I jumped started my car the plastic door trim cracked when I closed the door. Basically, the petro car ran *crunchie* with no acceleration until it warmed up.
I drive a Bolt, but I'm fortunate enough to have a garage which absorbs some heat from the home through the walls, so very seldom gets below freezing. The garage also has a level 2 charger, and I typically leave the car plugged in all the time, with target charge level set to 70%.
Efficiency is definitely less in cold weather, with city driving impacted much more than highway driving, but other than using more power, the car drives just fine. I have not yet had a reason to attempt a DCFC in cold weather.
I did notice one strange thing though. A few weeks ago, I parked the car in the garage with target charge level at 70%, then disappeared for two weeks without driving the car at all (but left the car plugged in). When I returned, the battery somehow got up to 85% SOC, and I'm sure how this is possible. Maybe the BMS adjusts so that the same charge level becomes a higher SOC as temperatures drop?
Could you comment at some point extremely hot weather battery care if any? Have Rivian on order and my garage in Arizona gets probably 115-120 some hot days.
ohhh hey I'll be making a cold weather video too! (with my Nissan Leaf) I live in apartment and planning dinner with my dad Wednesday, plan on charging tonight, and then getting it in the morning because public charging is awesome, and incase there is someone else in my neck of the woods that wants to charge I don't and can't leave it plugged in all day, unless said place is closed. so this will be interesting! Stay Tuned!!
To get to work and back without worrying I have to do 100% in summer in winter it's a little more worry at 100..
I'm having problems with 2018 Leaf in -30C. The heater can't keep up with the cold air! It has very little to no heat, can't defrost the windshield, ect. It seems like a poor design problem, but I wouldn't say it's typical for EVs. As I'm sure a bigger heating element would solve the problem.
Looking forward to your upcoming testing videos in the cold. Stay safe those bitter cold and wind can be life threatening. Thanks for the great content.
I’d like if you could dive into this super basic question: if preconditioning is necessary for healthy fast charging how come romping on the throttle or giving it full regen with way more kW to a cold pack is “OK?” Apparently this was brought up by T&T Emobility, a German Language RUclips channel two years ago after he looked into degradation numbers from German Teslas where he could also check their history of driving. But I’d like to know more details so maybe when you travel to Germany one I’d these times you could sit down with him on a collab and dig into this?
Is there "cold weather" packages available for consumers in northern climates?
Requesting a multi-truck scientific tonneau cover efficiency test. Alex on Autos said it improved efficiency by 6-10% in his Lightning. I’m skeptical. Please make a definitive video! ICE owners would love to see this too.
I would suggest experimenting with a skirt around the car to prevent wind under the battery pack
that would be an excellent test comparison. EV with car cover or without. Not too sure how car covers are in the winter time with snow. I would imagine it would take some time to remove it everyday and stuff.
Range Test in R1T and Model 3 and plaid in this crazy cold front would be great!
Interesting about fast acceleration and regen in the cold.. Does this mean that Yo-Yo-ing the car like you do to warm up the battery, could actually be damaging it? Maybe the safer thing to do is to let the battery heater warm up the battery and not hard use.
The Tesla prevents you from discharging too many amps until it warms but Kyle is recommending you don’t push it to that limit constantly if you’re concerned with longevity. There are lots of things cars allow you to do but there are best practices you can apply to get far more years out of it.
It sucks not having a garage man, my poor Tesla is gonna suffer this week and throughout the rest of winter here in Chicago :((
Spotted bjorn Nyland's thumbnail picture from the arctic circle 😜
@outofspec review what if you do not have home charging? no outlet, no place to plug in during the winter?
Do you have a bolt or anything with ultium to test? I’m interested in GM’s entry level and best battery tech and how they both compare to the rest of the market.
I really love your RUclips videos. Very informative. On a recent review of the Mercedes EQS it showed a windshield reservoir only. What about the brake & power steering fluids in this EV and others?
One point, I'm assuming that Windchill values have no bearing on batteries and that it's only the actual temperature value is relevant. Is this assumption correct?
You are correct actual temperature is what matters in these cases.
The wind will cause the car/battery to cool down to the real air temperature more quickly, but it cannot make it go lower than the real air temperature.
Wind chill is just an attempt to approximate what a human experiences when you combine real air temperature and wind.
@@dorvinion I had the same thought after posting my comment and I guess it would be worse if it's so cold that an emergency heater was activated. Thanks for the clarification.
I tend to keep my car charged at 80 % and always plugged in also during the summer. Perhaps too high? I'm not even using a fraction of it going to work.
Hello - love your channel! can you please make a video about Tesla LFP charging best practices, just in general? Also long term storage (30 days) of LFP with access to level 2. That would be awesome! Thanks.
Does the cable going to the car take a hit in the very cold weather outside?
It gets stiffer in cold weather but no problem. It’s the sun and U.V. that will do damage.
My 12 volt car battery only lasts 5-7 days without driving before I have to jump it to get it started. I park outside and in the winter there could be a foot of snow I'm waiting to melt off, so I don't drive. I need a replacement car in 2023. I'm trending towards a hybrid with the optional plug-in for the extra 50 miles of range. I have no idea how electric cars will survive being unplugged outside for a week or two in temperature extremes of -10 to -20 F or 90-100F in the summer. Everybody has their garage and an outlet, I don't.
OK to charge LFP battery to 100%?
Where do you get your sweatshirts? They look so cozy.
Don't forget the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Here in the south (Houston) a lot of folks just run tap water in the windshield washer. Supposed to be in the high teens (positive at least).
What kind of efficiency are you getting in this weather? I’m sadly getting 1.3-1.5 on the 20s in 30* weather.
What about throwing a car cover over the EV during a cold night, is there change?
I hope you will be able to test an F150 Lightning, Rivian is interesting as well. Many other cars have been tested by TeslaBjørn in Norway. 😊 looking forward to your tests!
So, I don’t have one yet, if I park it outside will it loose battery just sitting there in the cold? Does it warm itself? Yes plug it in, then is there such a thing as an in car heater for electric cars to use the house electricity instead of battery? Like you would for a gas car. Then if it’s it’s in unheated parkade, I could stop at a heated underground place to charge it. So, pre condition takes how long…is it quicker because the place is heated? Is this bringing the battery up in temp? What’s happening. It’s a wind chill temp of -40c here for a few days. If I did just choose to leave it in the driveway for a few days or week….still plug it in or what.
Unplug and let the car sit at 50%. Most cars are finicky with 12 volts so a battery tender wouldn't hurt.
Yes, EVs are always running a small computer to monitor the cars battery and if the temp gets too hot or too cold the computer will automatically activate an air conditioner to keep the battery at a safe temp to avoid damage to it. Luckily the batteries in EVs are pretty big and can make it through some cold nights if charged past 50 percent. But after a few nights the battery level will be drained down and need to be plugged in to a charger to start the process all over again.
Question: if you car is charged to your desired charge level, does leaving it plugged in during cold days help the battery back in any way?
Yes, it heats the battery as needed
Keeping it plugged in in the cold should really only warm the battery when it gets to a critical temperature, which for Tesla's I think is around -20F.
I left my model 3 plugged in and out in the -10F weather during this cold snap. It never heated the battery once, nor did it have to top up the battery during the cold snap.
It would have heated the battery if I turned climate on to warm the cabin before driving, or increase the charge limit.
@@dorvinion plugged into 250v you won’t see all the dots only 1/3 or so 👌🏼
Why is your e-Tron performing so badly in the cold? Mine runs about 10% less efficiently at 32F, maybe 20% if it gets extremely cold.
It'll be interesting to see how your EVs perform. I've been in Cheyenne before when the temp was -26F. It is brutal. It was 1983 and I had a VW Rabbit diesel, and I forgot to put anti-gel fuel additive in the night before. Well, I couldn't go anywhere in it that day. Damaged the timing belt trying to start it. Not a good day. Good luck with the experiments!
Call Pops Get the Q4 out. See what it can do. Also if you're getting snow, can the EVs drift??
To put some real world numbers to EV driving in winter vs non-winter.
We have a 2022 Chevy Bolt. In the non-winter months I am getting:
With 85% city and 15% highway 4.3-4.7 miles / kwh (6.9 - 7.6 km/kwh) and range ~300 miles (480 km)
Highway at 60 mph (97 kph) 3.9 miles / kwh and range ~250 miles (400 km)
Highway at 75 mph (120 kph) 3.1 miles / kwh and range ~200 miles (320 km)
In December I am getting:
With 85% city 15% highway 2.7 miles / kwh and range ~175 miles (281km)
The Bolt reports ~ 35% of the energy used is for the climate control. The Bolt does not have a heat pump and uses resistant heating. Most of these are short trips 1 to 15 miles.
On a recent 256 mile trip averaging ~55 mph (88 kph) with a 15 to 20 mph (24 to 32 kph) headwind and temperatures starting at 15F (-9C) and ending at 5F (-15C) I averaged 2.7 m/kw with a range of 175 miles. We were driving in snow and the roads were not great which explains my slower speeds.
Interestingly only 12% of the energy used was for the climate control. Much less than our daily driving. Which shows the initial heating of the cabin takes more energy than keeping it warm.
Will a car cover help?
30 degrees, that’s not that cold. It’s 2 degrees here in wisconsin right now.
I fixed my model 3 NY cold weather issues by selling it to someone in Georgia they haven't had a single issue
Another concern is the failure of EV Charging stations to function during very cold temperatures.
OMG!!!… It’s going to be 40 degrees in Naples…PLEASE HELP US!!!
Keep the iguanas warm ;)
It was literally -31F yesterday where I’m at, nothing unusual. 😂
Yeah -40 degrees Celsius is a typical automotive temperature lower threshold
Great tips! Put a sweater on the old man for me!😂
Talk about fragile. I used to own a Fiat 500 Abarth and live in MN. I was terrified every time I turned the engine over when it was below freezing. Slowly let it come up to operating temp.
You and Bjørn need to get together one winter and just run a gauntlet of cars and chargers. He's in Thailand right now but maybe later this winter or next winter he can come to the USA or you to Norway. Perhaps it could be yearly talking head series!
It might be interesting comparing cars warmed with a heat pump against those with a resistive heater.
At this low temp, with the efficiency of these heat pumps, zero. In fact the added weight would be a negative, while it's just using resistive backup heat.
In less extreme cases, I'd also like to see this, but hard to get apples to apples comparison. My understanding is that it's not as big of a deal as people think, but probably worth it in consistently cold, but not this extreme, areas.
@@michaelcummins5974 Kyle listed a few cars that don't degrade so much in colder weather. Those could be the ones with heat pumps. IMHO, it would be worthwhile to formally test to be sure. Besides, more RUclips content, win-win!
@@lesliefranklin1870 at -22, no. There isn't a large scale heat pump for a home that works very well at that temp. No car sized unit can extract heat from air that cold, at least not yet.
At more reasonable temperatures, sure. The heat pump will make a good difference (about 3x more efficient).
The real question is when is the extra weight, space, and cost worth the gains? Probably not too often, but def has it's use cases where it would