Anybody have advice on how to remove the platter??? Owner's mnl implies it should simply lift off but mine does not, but it doesn't appear to have the typical C clip holding it. Notes to others: the screw on the headshell is for fine adjustment of the cartridge forward and back to get the stylus aligned with the adjustment gauge. If that alignment is done no protractors or other stylus position measurements should be neecessary. I thought I was going to break the headshell getting it off first time but it got easier after a few rrounds. A slight twist to one side or the other while pulling seems to help release it.
Is there any way you could make a video showing the functions and how to operate the ELAC 50H. THIS WAS A GREAT VIDEO BUT I NEED TO UNDERSTAND THE UNIT A LITTLE MORE BEFORE I MESS IT UP... I HAVE THE EXACT SAME UNIT WHICH SEEMS TO OPERATE GREAT BUT I DONT KNOW ALL THE FUNCTIONS OR WHAT I SHOULD BE DOING. THANK YOU
This video is great. I just purchased the 50h and am looking to do the same upgrades. I’m have an issue finding a ground connector. Do you remember where you got yours?
vintage products price to value advantage ratio is good, but mantaince including parts to be original is frustrating and may be costly, make sure you are patience and willing to use a longer time to find the real value of vintage products.
Great vid - exactly what I needed! Made the modification for RCA plugs, and it looks sharp. Not following you though on the ground wire modification. Where is that wire coming from? Assume you are then using it to ground out to the receiver? I'm asking because I'm getting a low-level hum and assume it's a grounding issue. Appreciate any help you can provide.
Nice upgrade. I'm curious if you've tried the Baerwald or Loefgren protractors for alignment in this TT? I have a Miracord 750 II, similar headshell, and find it hard to see if it's aligned using those methods.
I only really tried two methods. I'm not the greatest of HiFi enthusiast, but the manual only mentions lateral adjustments. The differences in the common three alignment adjustments only seem arbitrary, unless the geometry of the turntable suggests a certain type protractor. I plan on trying the different alignment methods you mentioned, because it seems interesting to see if there is a some type of difference in quality.
I'm currently working on a Miracord 50H II and am having a difficult time removing the cartridge holder from the headshell. I can get it off but it takes an undue ammount of force, so much so that I'm afraid of snapping the headshell off the tonearm. In your video (thanks for uploading BTW) I noticed yours came out way easier. Did you modify your cartridge holder to make removal easier or was it always that easy. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Well I don't know much about 50H II, but I was looking at the operating instruction manual from the 50H and it just slides off. The metal contacts for sound are the only things holding it in place.
I know it can be done, but I'm not sure. I only have the ELAC 50H operating instructions. There are many things that could cause that, but I'm ignorant of a direct fix, because the problem hasn't come up. Check the rubber on the direct drive to see if it's too still.
There’s a couple reasons it might run fast. 1. Oxidation on the pulley. Fix: clean/polish the motor pulley. 2. The phase timing capacitor has drifted off spec. Fix: replace capacitor with same value, voltage, heat rating and accuracy rating good quality cap. NOT A CHINESE ONE! Not being familiar with that particular model I don’t know the circuitry and there may be other issues but this is where I’d start in that order. It’s been a couple years since an elac has come in so I don’t remember if there’s any transistors. If so, they’re next suspect. But I’m thinking it’s just a couple phase timing capacitors. One small ceramic that you can leave in and one much larger electrolytic. You can replace the electrolytic with a metal foil poly capacitor as well (a higher voltage rating is ok) and it will last longer. There may be a capacitor at the switch as well. If it’s an old electrolytic I’d replace that while you’re in there. We’re only talking about a few dollars in parts here. The shipping will be more.
@@keithb6717 The 50H has an AC Synchromotor, so no electronics or transistors. The only instance it will run FASTER is when you have a 50Hz unit with a 50 Hz spindle. In this case you'll need a 60Hz spindle. Same problem had Hammond organ (w.Tonewheel) players who took their organ to Europe. The organ was off tune.
@@vegasvegas2811 The spindle on both motors (120/240v) is the same. The step pulleys are different. Also when switching from 50hz to 60hz you would remove the 1uf capacitor/phase condenser and leave the 3uf in. I’d replace the 3 with a new one.
Hi! On the 50h, if you are looking headon at the headshell at the screw, should the stylus be aligned to the point of the adjustment gauge? Looking from the side it is aligned, just not if looking headon at the screw
It is the pointy gauge that you raise when you take the brush off...under the stylus.... If I am looking at the screw on the head shell, I am trying get the needle tip aligned to the point of the gauge you raise up
That's the 50h lateral alignment gauge. You should be able to loosen the screws on the head shell so that the stylus touches or barely touches it. It has to be aligned for all angles of view if using that method.
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for on YT. KUDOS! I am now going to tackle replacing the cart on my Elac. THANKS!
Thanks for posting. I have a black ELAC 770H with a Shure M55e cartridge. It both looks and sounds great.
This is one the most wonderfully made video made, loved it. Thank you.
Very nice video man. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks so much for this great video. Just awesome. Glad to find.
Anybody have advice on how to remove the platter??? Owner's mnl implies it should simply lift off but mine does not, but it doesn't appear to have the typical C clip holding it. Notes to others: the screw on the headshell is for fine adjustment of the cartridge forward and back to get the stylus aligned with the adjustment gauge. If that alignment is done no protractors or other stylus position measurements should be neecessary. I thought I was going to break the headshell getting it off first time but it got easier after a few rrounds. A slight twist to one side or the other while pulling seems to help release it.
Is there any way you could make a video showing the functions and how to operate the ELAC 50H. THIS WAS A GREAT VIDEO BUT I NEED TO UNDERSTAND THE UNIT A LITTLE MORE BEFORE I MESS IT UP... I HAVE THE EXACT SAME UNIT WHICH SEEMS TO OPERATE GREAT BUT I DONT KNOW ALL THE FUNCTIONS OR WHAT I SHOULD BE DOING. THANK YOU
@@dt4346 probably will. I haven't made a video in like a year.
This video is great. I just purchased the 50h and am looking to do the same upgrades. I’m have an issue finding a ground connector. Do you remember where you got yours?
The bolt & wing nut? or where the wire is attached?
@@keithgoodwin1885 the one on box so I guess the bolt and wing nut
This vid got me all “hhiuuurrrnnnngggg”. Very nice.
vintage products price to value advantage ratio is good, but mantaince including parts to be original is frustrating and may be costly, make sure you are patience and willing to use a longer time to find the real value of vintage products.
Curious, does the ground cord have to be plugged into the ground in the wall outlet?
Hi, the groundcord should be connected with the ground screw on the back of the amplifier.
Hola buenas noches
Great vid - exactly what I needed! Made the modification for RCA plugs, and it looks sharp. Not following you though on the ground wire modification. Where is that wire coming from? Assume you are then using it to ground out to the receiver? I'm asking because I'm getting a low-level hum and assume it's a grounding issue. Appreciate any help you can provide.
From what I can tell from my recent dumpster rescue, the old area you'd plug Left and Right into.
Ground from the metal chassis of the elac to the receiver (or phono preamp if it’s separate).
Nice upgrade. I'm curious if you've tried the Baerwald or Loefgren protractors for alignment in this TT? I have a Miracord 750 II, similar headshell, and find it hard to see if it's aligned using those methods.
I only really tried two methods. I'm not the greatest of HiFi enthusiast, but the manual only mentions lateral adjustments. The differences in the common three alignment adjustments only seem arbitrary, unless the geometry of the turntable suggests a certain type protractor. I plan on trying the different alignment methods you mentioned, because it seems interesting to see if there is a some type of difference in quality.
I have one , but I no underesten use.🙂
I'm currently working on a Miracord 50H II and am having a difficult time removing the cartridge holder from the headshell. I can get it off but it takes an undue ammount of force, so much so that I'm afraid of snapping the headshell off the tonearm. In your video (thanks for uploading BTW) I noticed yours came out way easier. Did you modify your cartridge holder to make removal easier or was it always that easy. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Well I don't know much about 50H II, but I was looking at the operating instruction manual from the 50H and it just slides off. The metal contacts for sound are the only things holding it in place.
And what would you have done if it was running too fast, like mine is? There is no way to adjust the speed on these, is there?
I know it can be done, but I'm not sure. I only have the ELAC 50H operating instructions. There are many things that could cause that, but I'm ignorant of a direct fix, because the problem hasn't come up. Check the rubber on the direct drive to see if it's too still.
There’s a couple reasons it might run fast.
1. Oxidation on the pulley. Fix: clean/polish the motor pulley.
2. The phase timing capacitor has drifted off spec. Fix: replace capacitor with same value, voltage, heat rating and accuracy rating good quality cap. NOT A CHINESE ONE!
Not being familiar with that particular model I don’t know the circuitry and there may be other issues but this is where I’d start in that order. It’s been a couple years since an elac has come in so I don’t remember if there’s any transistors. If so, they’re next suspect. But I’m thinking it’s just a couple phase timing capacitors. One small ceramic that you can leave in and one much larger electrolytic. You can replace the electrolytic with a metal foil poly capacitor as well (a higher voltage rating is ok) and it will last longer. There may be a capacitor at the switch as well. If it’s an old electrolytic I’d replace that while you’re in there. We’re only talking about a few dollars in parts here. The shipping will be more.
@@keithb6717 Thank you Keith. Very appreciated.
@@keithb6717 The 50H has an AC Synchromotor, so no electronics or transistors. The only instance it will run FASTER is when you have a 50Hz unit with a 50 Hz spindle. In this case you'll need a 60Hz spindle. Same problem had Hammond organ (w.Tonewheel) players who took their organ to Europe. The organ was off tune.
@@vegasvegas2811
The spindle on both motors (120/240v) is the same. The step pulleys are different. Also when switching from 50hz to 60hz you would remove the 1uf capacitor/phase condenser and leave the 3uf in. I’d replace the 3 with a new one.
Grounded to wood?
Grounded through the wood. At 3:20 you can see it on the other side on the left. Grounded from Miracord ground to Preamp Ground.
Nice video man. By the way your a god at diablo 2
Hi! On the 50h, if you are looking headon at the headshell at the screw, should the stylus be aligned to the point of the adjustment gauge?
Looking from the side it is aligned, just not if looking headon at the screw
Which gauge? 50h lateral adjustment gauge?
It is the pointy gauge that you raise when you take the brush off...under the stylus....
If I am looking at the screw on the head shell, I am trying get the needle tip aligned to the point of the gauge you raise up
The owners manual calls the gauge the stylus position adjustment gauge
That's the 50h lateral alignment gauge. You should be able to loosen the screws on the head shell so that the stylus touches or barely touches it. It has to be aligned for all angles of view if using that method.
The adjustment gauge goes pretty far up and should be able to touch the stylus. It'll take a little time to get right.
Decent. I only use Shure stylus' with my Miracord. They're far superior to anything Audio Technica ever made.