Nice video. I'm having real issues with my shop door but no local companies will help. It has the cylinder enclosed in the frame at the top. The adjustment screws turn but won't do anything. It swings open if you let it go when it's unlocked and it has to be lifted slightly to lock it. Any ideas?
Sorry Larry, im not very active on the computer these days, trying to engage in this whole youtube thing a bit more. Yes, i find that some locking mechanisms might might need a slight tweak more but ideally a nice smooth transition from closing to latching.
We have the same door and the hydraulic door closer screw was loosened too much and the fluid has come out and the closer doesn’t work correctly now. Is the mechanism accessible to put new fluid in? Many thanks
When you wound in the end hex bolt into the top strap arm did you have slacken of the hex bolt fixing that is in the top of the top strap arm within the hole aperture to enable the door to move left/right? As you mentioned aswell the bottom pivot show can also be adjusted left or right as you said you can move it closer to the frame? So you have up/down but also left/right? Great video by the way! Can you do an in depth video of how to pre load the door back on ie pre charge a hold open peg so it clicks open on 90 degrees & how to adjust the end screw?? Cheers
Have a similar door but it scrapes on the bottom lock end. There is a name plate pop riveted top in front of the concealed arm. There are no adjusting nutz on the end of the arm. The grand is true and plumb. How di I adjust the setup to raise the lock end of the door. Thks
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Video was a little long, but very educational, thank you gentlemen.
Thanks for the video great help
Brilliant little video lads, keep it up!
Nice job lads
Guys great video. Waiting for more.
Great video lads
Nice work... Doors just get abused. I am amazed how many doors I fix that just have screws which have just backed themselves out over time.
Great video! My door is a different type. But I love this video instruction so much.
Can i make a suggestion, would it be better to use a 6mm on top plate 5mm for door but properly tapped
Nice video. I'm having real issues with my shop door but no local companies will help. It has the cylinder enclosed in the frame at the top. The adjustment screws turn but won't do anything. It swings open if you let it go when it's unlocked and it has to be lifted slightly to lock it. Any ideas?
Thanks. Very helpful. You guys know what you're doing. Question: Is the idea to have the latching speed a little faster than the closing speed?
Sorry Larry, im not very active on the computer these days, trying to engage in this whole youtube thing a bit more. Yes, i find that some locking mechanisms might might need a slight tweak more but ideally a nice smooth transition from closing to latching.
We have the same door and the hydraulic door closer screw was loosened too much and the fluid has come out and the closer doesn’t work correctly now. Is the mechanism accessible to put new fluid in? Many thanks
When you wound in the end hex bolt into the top strap arm did you have slacken of the hex bolt fixing that is in the top of the top strap arm within the hole aperture to enable the door to move left/right? As you mentioned aswell the bottom pivot show can also be adjusted left or right as you said you can move it closer to the frame? So you have up/down but also left/right?
Great video by the way!
Can you do an in depth video of how to pre load the door back on ie pre charge a hold open peg so it clicks open on 90 degrees & how to adjust the end screw??
Cheers
Very helpful, thanks
Superb video!
Can the bottom be adjusted
Have a similar door but it scrapes on the bottom lock end. There is a name plate pop riveted top in front of the concealed arm. There are no adjusting nutz on the end of the arm. The grand is true and plumb. How di I adjust the setup to raise the lock end of the door. Thks
Can you not remove the latch plate on the post/door leaf & file it out larger?
mine slams I can see fluid leak at the top ! what is the spring part called
Get a new top transom closer whether it’s hold open or Non hold open unit
A helpful video but clearence hole should have been drilled, a 6mm tap to cut thread and the nut you pointed to you called a bolt.