I really appreciate this episode. This was very informative and answers a ton of questions us early mustang owners have, especially for us restomod guys.
I've never seen a gen. 4 camaro/transam set up used,it looks like it would work well in a classic mustang.I have one in my 66 ford f100 p/u .I have heavier springs in it because the 300 six is heavier than the chevy ls motor.Have been using it since 2008 with no problems.I made upper shock mounts from plate steel .Went in pretty easy took me all weekend to make the mounts ,thanks for the info on all the other systems you talked about! I know this is 4 years old now ,but just saw it.
Getting ready for a TCI front suspension on my 62 comet, will be putting a 87 5.0 and a AOD here soon. ( Pulling engine now out of a 87 grand marquis). I hope this all works out.
You may have to massage the tunnel on the Comet. Even in the later cars I have seen where guys have to mess with the area where the firewall drops into the tunnel to gain clearance.
If you are using the stock style suspension, there is also a "hybrid' coil-over that mounts using the factory spring pocket and shock mount on the top and gets rid of the spring perch on the upper control arm. They also allow some adjustment of ride height, and most of them come with single or double adjustable shocks.
Yeah, we mentioned that at about 1:40 in the video. I wonder if that costing is effective with the cost of arms and coil over shock.is it getting close to the cost of a complete coil over? Hmmm I'll have to look at that.
Loving these videos, recently bought a 63 ranchero so have been watch many of your videos. I am planning to do air ride on it.... have you had any experience with this? I've done air ride on several trucks in the past but never a unibody.
Thanks for the videos. It helped with confidence in replacing the suspension parts on my 73 Maverick. INTERESTINGLY... One of the upper control arms were not assembled correctly. The center bar was off center by about 1/4". It was easy enough to remove the outside nuts and get it correct, HOWEVER... could installing (or making) them off center on purpose be an easy way to achieve some negative camber? Have a vendor ship you an upper control arm so you can try it and see how easy it would be.
Im curious to hear from folks who have driven cars equipped with the CPP totally tubular system that adds a subframe plate and eliminates the strut rod, replacing it with a true lower A arm. They have a nice coil over type shock with double adjustable viking shock.
I'd like to install one for sure. I have talked to a couple of people that really like it. I think they first introduced it on the Nova (which uses a very similar system).
@@AutoRestoMod I am really interested in doing this to my 67 Mustang. I have been looking for reviews but have not see to many. I would like it if you would do this. Have a great day.
Thank You for the info, I did not realize there was a strut option. I have a 1966 Fairlane GT with a FE engine. This car was very rough and so a factory perfect resto was not in the books. I am not interested total mods to make more room for headers on the FE. Great review of what is available. I will go and see what the market has to offer. Have a great day, keep it up!
Which system would work best and not drain my pockets for a 62 ford falcon in-line 6, or would I be better off keeping it stock? Just hopping up the engine a bit, but not a racer.
You'll need to move to a V8 style suspension on the car as well as V8 steering to get any real improvements. This is due mostly to the fact that all of the components for performance are V8 oriented. Open Tracker Racing will give you the parts that you need to make the front end handle much better at a reasonable price.
I committed to ridetech rear set up. Probably on the front also. Not sure if it has the Shelby drop built in though. Bought the template, not sure if I need it or not. 🤷
I called Wilwood and asked them about the mustang 2 suspension for road racing with an early high HP mustang. The did not recommend it. They said the spindle would flex to much affecting the geometry. Did not say anything about it breaking , but I was under the impression it was marginally strong enough. No first hand experience, just passing along a conversation with Wilwood.
I would do the following: Opentracker roller spring perches, stock upper and lower A-Arms. RRS-USA spherical strut rods. If those prove to be outside the budget, I would at least replace the strut rod bushings. I like QA1 or Viking for shocks, but many find them to expensive. 1-inch front sway bar...though new urethane center and end link bushings for the stock bar can work well too.
I have a 63 falcon and went to replace the tie rods, well the parts I got thru Kar Krafters didnt fit because lo and behold the suspension was changed. Now i am trying to figure out what they changed to. I have been told by some folks that have done ford remods that the most popular change over was to a pinto or grenada. Your thoughts
I am planning a video on that for this week oddly. But to short it, contact me via email: jford@autorestomod.com and send a picture of the tie rods you have.
did you ever do the recomended alignment for power steering on the wagon that you got from Austrailia ? Was so happy to see you get that 4r70w in there with the column shift and bench seat but then i realized that there is no borgeson box or rack and pinion for you Trying to coppy what you did with the wagon but really hate that power assist steering .Did you do the shelby drop or anti dive kit on the wagon i love the wheels , stance and bench seat in your wagon but not sure i could live with the power steering
Honestly, if you do the Aussie specs (3 degrees positive camber, 0 camber and 1/16 inch toe, the stock steering is OK. Now finding a SHOP that can do those specs...whoooole nuther ball game. I did not do the Shelby drop on the wagon as the springs had been cut and wasn't ready to drop the nose any more. The Borgeson box is a column shift killer. LOVE the box, but it is just too tight to the firewall to work. Since our Torino is going to be four (or five) speed, we'll be doing Borgeson on it.
Great information I'm trying to figure out something for my Maverick that's inexpensive but has a better ride for it. Thanks for the insight and helping me understand them a little bit better.
Not a lot out there for this Gen Fairlane. I don't know of any companies doing a suspension upgrade for these. I know RRS-USA offers a rack and pinion.
I was wondering about autocross and wider rims and tires on a 62 ranchero. What do you think is the best suspension. I love your videos and thanks for the information
Back like 20ish years ago I had a 68 cougar that I was street racing at the time and me being a broke kid at the time didn't have money to buy a good disk brake it and rebuild the stock suspension . soo from seeing how my buddys fox body suspension work we went to the junk yard and grabbed the struts spindles rack from a foxbody we had to use fox ball jounts made some ball joint cup out of some scrap pipe weld those in to the stock cougar control arms and made a non adjustable camber caster plate and a few other little odd thing to it work .it really was all that difficult to do and it made it drive soooooo much better suck a old man rear-ended it and totalled it 😢
Great vid! Super informative and I immediately went to google to do some more research even though I already just bought and installed my coil over kit. I stuck around until the end as well. Haha you guys are awesome!
I am working with a 65 comet and would like to do an fe swap, that said it's not going to be a drag car but will be a daily driver. I have read that the stock location for the spring or strut at the tower is weak and tends to crack the inner fender due to flexing near the firewall. This makes the bracing necessary, so in my mind this makes the mustang II kits more desirable because then there isn't a need for the bracing. What's your take on this?
Watch long enough and you'll hear me say this a lot, "it depends". The cracking can be overcome a couple of ways: the McPherson strut system (non invasive, DIY). If cracked, the tower can be welded, then the Opentracker Racing shock tower wheel side brace kit can be welded in. The Mustang II is a viable option as well. I would want to see it welded in by a certified welder and fab person because your whole car is at stake.
I have come to learn through experience and these videos that there are alot of common components between mid 60's Mustungs and mid 60's Falcons. What are your experiences?
It's based on the same platform with minor differences. I have 1966 manual power steering from a Mustang on my 1974 Ford Maverick power steering car. Bolted right up.
You mention that the McPherson strut "camber changes nicely" this is actually not true, they tend to have very conservative camber curves. This is fine by and large, especially for cruising and drag racing. A good double wishbone setup can be better than a strut. But of course most of these double wishbone setups are confined to stock spindles and pickup points, which leaves the geometry basically unchanged aside from caster. The best setup to look for IMO is a tubular control arm setup that includes it's own specially designed spindle.
Great vid. One question - you said with the 1st 2 options you can use your stock spindles so you can keep the disc brakes. Does this apply to the 6cyl spindles also? I'm working on a 66 6cyl Mustang, currently stock suspension. It's going to be an enjoyable driver & Id like to keep the 4 lug, but a mildly upgraded suspension would be great. Personally really like the behind the scenes, they're fun!
That depends...it's a Ford so get used to hearing that...If you are working on a Late 1967 up six, you can reuse your spindles. If you are working on an earlier car, they are different. I THINK the spindle bearing mount hole is smaller. But I'm not sure about that.
I like the classic performance products kit. Basically replaces the LCA and strut rod with a full one piece A arm. Corrects some of the bad geometry because of the strut rod. The rest of the parts are stock. Also the Mustang 2 uses a full control arm on the modern kits and no strut rod. Everybody and their brother seems to sell some sort of suspension replacement kit for Fords. Hmm wonder why... Have fun with the lock down. I am in Tarrant county (Fort Worth) and it is starting to look like we are going to start heading out of it in the next few days. The numbers are stable and low here. I have been getting lots of house remodel work dine.
@@AutoRestoMod Well we are on the road to what will be the new normal. Starting to see light at the other end of the tunnel and it's not a train coming at us I hope.
Great explanations and great videos. I have been spending money on some of these mods and ended up with a RRS full front and rear upgrade. I guess the RRS is addressing the Ackerman angles which are important for cornering.
I am starting the research now on the suspensions. I thought I knew what I wanted but obviously I don't know what I want. time to decide what my 90% will be.
It does. And that makes for a higher center of gravity. Not good for cornering...of course if you are doing an FE, you probably aren't going around corners except to get to the return road.
Check out my AJE coilover McPherson strut install with hand made towers in my 63 Falcon Hardtop @Bag of Bones 1963 Falcon Build on Facebook. No videos yet. Thanks
I can tell you that the Street Or Track front suspension/coilovers took my 66 Mustang to a cornering grip that is nearly equal to my 2015 GT Perf Pack. Once I get the matching rear 3 link/watts link rear kit I am betting my 66 slaughters my 2015 GT. The turn in on my 66 is just nuts. 1.5deg neg camber, 5.5deg caster, 1/16 toe in. 225/45/17 tires all four corners and it grips very well. Only gripe is Unisteer. God they do some stupid shit. Like deleting the holes in the cross member that would clear the lower control arm bolt. I had to plasma cut a brand new cross member because Unisteer deleted the holes that their own instruction manual shows being included.
These Fairlane suspensions are unique. Nothing is common to other Fords. Not many cars were built. They never were very popular. If it werent for the Tasca T Bolt cars these would have fallen into total obscurity. Briefly: the upper arm is long but bolts into the frame like the big cars. The upper coil sits directly onto the upper arm, like most lower springs/arms do. The lower arms are unique. Geometry is ancient and sux. Ive done several and own 2 personally. Your best improvement is Granada knuckles and modern H+ rated tires. Theres more.
RRS (www.rrs-online.com.au/compact-fairlane-parts.html) offers a McPherson kit for that as well as a rack. You'll have to rebuild your lower arms though as they are not yet offering a replacement.
People should know if you want to go around corners don't hack it up and put a Pinto suspension in it unless you go Detroit Speed but then again it's a crime to call theirs just another Mustang II suspension kit. I have a Mike Maier MOD coilover system on my '69 Mustang and kit goes around corners as hard as my 50th LE Mustang.
Detroit Speed stuff is on another level to be sure. Like I said there are so many cool kits out there the video would have been five hours long; and I STILL would have left someone out. 😆
The Maier racing stuff is impressive. Add Street Or Track to the list. The front suspension alone in my 66 Mustang put my 66 just behind my 2015 GT PerfPack in cornering. Once I complete the rear suspension it will likely obliterate my 2015 in cornering prowess.
Great vid with the comparison of suspensions. Like you said “it all depends on what you wanna do with your car.” The mustang ll was my choice and not only did it open up the engine bay, it also increased chassis strength in my 1965 Mustang.
Honestly I haven't used the QA1 set up. I'd give a call to the tech line and talk to them. Here is my email address, we can try and work out the bugs if there is no resolution with QA1: jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod Yes,smilar,you're right.However,I was able to fit a Mustang radiator into my 1966 Ford Falcon without modifying anything.Now that you mention it I remember the guy saying what you said.When the p!rts store referred me to a Mustang specialty place I thought he( the parts store,Auto zone,guy) was crazy.Thats when learned about the common ground of the Ford models of the 1960's-70's.
Thank goodness good people like you are around taking the time to discuss these things. Thanks
Our pleasure!
Could you do a straight axle on a '69 Ford Falcon
I really appreciate this episode. This was very informative and answers a ton of questions us early mustang owners have, especially for us restomod guys.
I've never seen a gen. 4 camaro/transam set up used,it looks like it would work well in a classic mustang.I have one in my 66 ford f100 p/u .I have heavier springs in it because the 300 six is heavier than the chevy ls motor.Have been using it since 2008 with no problems.I made upper shock mounts from plate steel .Went in pretty easy took me all weekend to make the mounts ,thanks for the info on all the other systems you talked about! I know this is 4 years old now ,but just saw it.
Getting ready for a TCI front suspension on my 62 comet, will be putting a 87 5.0 and a AOD here soon. ( Pulling engine now out of a 87 grand marquis). I hope this all works out.
You may have to massage the tunnel on the Comet. Even in the later cars I have seen where guys have to mess with the area where the firewall drops into the tunnel to gain clearance.
Ah. Ha! I watched your show on your tranny install in the wagon! Gave me a idea for my swap! Thanks Jeff!
Great video. What you recommend for a 16968 Torino GT. I put a 460 in it and would like it to handle better. Thanks for any input.
If you are using the stock style suspension, there is also a "hybrid' coil-over that mounts using the factory spring pocket and shock mount on the top and gets rid of the spring perch on the upper control arm. They also allow some adjustment of ride height, and most of them come with single or double adjustable shocks.
Yeah, we mentioned that at about 1:40 in the video. I wonder if that costing is effective with the cost of arms and coil over shock.is it getting close to the cost of a complete coil over? Hmmm I'll have to look at that.
ive got an aussie falcon putting a aussie rrs suspenion kit in not cheap but really good system try rrs web site all bolt in
Agreed Wayne, we'll be installing a complete RRS system in our 1964 Falcon hardtop. We are VERY excited about that.
Good stuff...I had to use my uncles prosthetic leg for a sway bar....keep educating us..especially we the bottomfeeders!!
I want to install a mustang-II front end on my 56 Ford F100 and been leaning to coil overs so the height can be adjusted as you indicated.
I did the Australian RRS RACK AND COILOVER McPherson strut conversion on my 71 Torino and I’m amazed what it could do on a roadcourse!
How would this help?? I have a 1966 Ford Fairlane GT Cobra with a 429
RRS in here in Australia make a very nice McPherson strut setup.
They do. I like the three link they offer too.
Loving these videos, recently bought a 63 ranchero so have been watch many of your videos. I am planning to do air ride on it.... have you had any experience with this? I've done air ride on several trucks in the past but never a unibody.
Can you run air bags with mustang ll ?
This is a great series.
awesome information!!! Im looking to change out my stock suspension on 67 Fairlane. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for the videos. It helped with confidence in replacing the
suspension parts on my 73 Maverick. INTERESTINGLY... One of the upper
control arms were not assembled correctly. The center bar was off center
by about 1/4". It was easy enough to remove the outside nuts and get it
correct, HOWEVER... could installing (or making) them off center on
purpose be an easy way to achieve some negative camber? Have a vendor
ship you an upper control arm so you can try it and see how easy it
would be.
Im curious to hear from folks who have driven cars equipped with the CPP totally tubular system that adds a subframe plate and eliminates the strut rod, replacing it with a true lower A arm. They have a nice coil over type shock with double adjustable viking shock.
I'd like to install one for sure. I have talked to a couple of people that really like it. I think they first introduced it on the Nova (which uses a very similar system).
@@AutoRestoMod I am really interested in doing this to my 67 Mustang. I have been looking for reviews but have not see to many. I would like it if you would do this. Have a great day.
Good job of the explanation on the majority of the after-mart. Keep up the good work!
Great info. Awesome videos
Thank You for the info, I did not realize there was a strut option. I have a 1966 Fairlane GT with a FE engine. This car was very rough and so a factory perfect resto was not in the books. I am not interested total mods to make more room for headers on the FE. Great review of what is available. I will go and see what the market has to offer. Have a great day, keep it up!
You are welcome.
Love the program!! thanks for all the info!
I have the Global West system on a 1965 it is great.
Are you using their +3 upper arms? I've been looking at those but your the first person I've found who is using them so I wasn't sure.
Which system would work best and not drain my pockets for a 62 ford falcon in-line 6, or would I be better off keeping it stock? Just hopping up the engine a bit, but not a racer.
You'll need to move to a V8 style suspension on the car as well as V8 steering to get any real improvements. This is due mostly to the fact that all of the components for performance are V8 oriented. Open Tracker Racing will give you the parts that you need to make the front end handle much better at a reasonable price.
I have McPherson strut rack and pinion on my 69 torino and drive very often.
Good move !!
What setup did you go with?
Here's a tip, mazda3 has electric power steering pump for rack and pinion. It can be mounted discreetly for more original look.
Yep, there are a couple e-pumps out there now.
I committed to ridetech rear set up. Probably on the front also. Not sure if it has the Shelby drop built in though. Bought the template, not sure if I need it or not. 🤷
Me either. Ridetech makes some good stuff.
I called Wilwood and asked them about the mustang 2 suspension for road racing with an early high HP mustang. The did not recommend it. They said the spindle would flex to much affecting the geometry. Did not say anything about it breaking , but I was under the impression it was marginally strong enough. No first hand experience, just passing along a conversation with Wilwood.
Thanks for letting us know!
My son and I are restoring a 62 Falcon and on a budget. As far as suspension, normal daily driver, what’s your recommendation?
I would do the following: Opentracker roller spring perches, stock upper and lower A-Arms. RRS-USA spherical strut rods. If those prove to be outside the budget, I would at least replace the strut rod bushings. I like QA1 or Viking for shocks, but many find them to expensive. 1-inch front sway bar...though new urethane center and end link bushings for the stock bar can work well too.
I have a 63 falcon and went to replace the tie rods, well the parts I got thru Kar Krafters didnt fit because lo and behold the suspension was changed. Now i am trying to figure out what they changed to. I have been told by some folks that have done ford remods that the most popular change over was to a pinto or grenada. Your thoughts
I am planning a video on that for this week oddly. But to short it, contact me via email: jford@autorestomod.com and send a picture of the tie rods you have.
Cool episode, I had no idea all these existed
did you ever do the recomended alignment for power steering on the wagon that you got from Austrailia ? Was so happy to see you get that 4r70w in there with the column shift and bench seat but then i realized that there is no borgeson box or rack and pinion for you Trying to coppy what you did with the wagon but really hate that power assist steering .Did you do the shelby drop or anti dive kit on the wagon i love the wheels , stance and bench seat in your wagon but not sure i could live with the power steering
Honestly, if you do the Aussie specs (3 degrees positive camber, 0 camber and 1/16 inch toe, the stock steering is OK. Now finding a SHOP that can do those specs...whoooole nuther ball game.
I did not do the Shelby drop on the wagon as the springs had been cut and wasn't ready to drop the nose any more.
The Borgeson box is a column shift killer. LOVE the box, but it is just too tight to the firewall to work. Since our Torino is going to be four (or five) speed, we'll be doing Borgeson on it.
Great information I'm trying to figure out something for my Maverick that's inexpensive but has a better ride for it. Thanks for the insight and helping me understand them a little bit better.
Glad to help!
I'm trying to build a 1956 ford fairlane and I can't find any information on these cars any idea what's a good front IFS up grade or oem swap
Not a lot out there for this Gen Fairlane. I don't know of any companies doing a suspension upgrade for these. I know RRS-USA offers a rack and pinion.
I was wondering about autocross and wider rims and tires on a 62 ranchero. What do you think is the best suspension. I love your videos and thanks for the information
Personally my pick is the McPherson strut system. Has the ability to hog out the shock towers if desired, and has some nice handling characteristics.
Love this one ! It’s a bit complex and I’ve decided I want to understand suspension better before I upgrade
Thanks! It is a little hard to chew at first, but once you dive in, you'll get it.
I really like the TCP coil overs I put on the 68 Mustang, huge difference!
TCP makes good stuff.
CCP has an amazing setup for tubular control arms for the fairlane. Awesome setup!
OK!
Back like 20ish years ago I had a 68 cougar that I was street racing at the time and me being a broke kid at the time didn't have money to buy a good disk brake it and rebuild the stock suspension . soo from seeing how my buddys fox body suspension work we went to the junk yard and grabbed the struts spindles rack from a foxbody we had to use fox ball jounts made some ball joint cup out of some scrap pipe weld those in to the stock cougar control arms and made a non adjustable camber caster plate and a few other little odd thing to it work .it really was all that difficult to do and it made it drive soooooo much better suck a old man rear-ended it and totalled it 😢
I agree that sorts of things can be done, but a warranty is nice to have also lol.
Great vid! Super informative and I immediately went to google to do some more research even though I already just bought and installed my coil over kit. I stuck around until the end as well. Haha you guys are awesome!
Does anyone know headers that'll fit a 63 fairlane there has to be something write thanks for the help.
Now time for rear suspension options!
LOL somehow I KNEW that was coming...
@@AutoRestoMod Well, it's still on my list for my Fairlane. Gotta get rid of the air shocks!!
I am working with a 65 comet and would like to do an fe swap, that said it's not going to be a drag car but will be a daily driver. I have read that the stock location for the spring or strut at the tower is weak and tends to crack the inner fender due to flexing near the firewall. This makes the bracing necessary, so in my mind this makes the mustang II kits more desirable because then there isn't a need for the bracing. What's your take on this?
Watch long enough and you'll hear me say this a lot, "it depends". The cracking can be overcome a couple of ways: the McPherson strut system (non invasive, DIY). If cracked, the tower can be welded, then the Opentracker Racing shock tower wheel side brace kit can be welded in. The Mustang II is a viable option as well. I would want to see it welded in by a certified welder and fab person because your whole car is at stake.
I have come to learn through experience and these videos that there are alot of common components between mid 60's Mustungs and mid 60's Falcons. What are your experiences?
It's based on the same platform with minor differences. I have 1966 manual power steering from a Mustang on my 1974 Ford Maverick power steering car. Bolted right up.
@@aol11 Ah,I see it now.
You mention that the McPherson strut "camber changes nicely" this is actually not true, they tend to have very conservative camber curves. This is fine by and large, especially for cruising and drag racing. A good double wishbone setup can be better than a strut. But of course most of these double wishbone setups are confined to stock spindles and pickup points, which leaves the geometry basically unchanged aside from caster. The best setup to look for IMO is a tubular control arm setup that includes it's own specially designed spindle.
Cool video!
Great vid. One question - you said with the 1st 2 options you can use your stock spindles so you can keep the disc brakes. Does this apply to the 6cyl spindles also? I'm working on a 66 6cyl Mustang, currently stock suspension. It's going to be an enjoyable driver & Id like to keep the 4 lug, but a mildly upgraded suspension would be great.
Personally really like the behind the scenes, they're fun!
That depends...it's a Ford so get used to hearing that...If you are working on a Late 1967 up six, you can reuse your spindles. If you are working on an earlier car, they are different. I THINK the spindle bearing mount hole is smaller. But I'm not sure about that.
Wilwood offers a disc brake kit for the stock 6 cylinder with 4 lug spindles, but it's not shown on their website so you'll have to give them a call.
I have learnt so much from your channel
Glad to hear!
Learned
Hey how do I make an 03 Mustang GT that's lowered with H&R SS Springs ride smooth.
Run 15lbs in tires
Here's a 2nd thumbs up for the camping trip!
It has been fun, sadly we have a burn-ban that started yesterday so no fires--no smores...
Can you recommend a kit?
I really like the RRS stuff. If I am going to go aftermarket, I want a full modern departure.
I like the classic performance products kit. Basically replaces the LCA and strut rod with a full one piece A arm. Corrects some of the bad geometry because of the strut rod. The rest of the parts are stock.
Also the Mustang 2 uses a full control arm on the modern kits and no strut rod.
Everybody and their brother seems to sell some sort of suspension replacement kit for Fords. Hmm wonder why...
Have fun with the lock down. I am in Tarrant county (Fort Worth) and it is starting to look like we are going to start heading out of it in the next few days. The numbers are stable and low here. I have been getting lots of house remodel work dine.
There are SOOOOO many cool options out there now. Glad y'all are getting back to normal over there! Good news!
@@AutoRestoMod Well we are on the road to what will be the new normal. Starting to see light at the other end of the tunnel and it's not a train coming at us I hope.
Good info thanks..1963 falcon..i may do the mustang2
That will work!
It was good basic info to broaden basic knowledge.
Great program mike from ct
Thanks!
Detroit Speed make a killer setup. Perfect for pro touring. Very costly but.
Hey,if it works...
I installed Global West arms with Viking coilovers in my Maverick, I like it so far.
Great explanations and great videos. I have been spending money on some of these mods and ended up with a RRS full front and rear upgrade. I guess the RRS is addressing the Ackerman angles which are important for cornering.
Yes, they do.. It is good stuff. I've driven it and used it in the past with great results.
How’s the rrs been working out? I’m thinking about going that route on my 66
I am starting the research now on the suspensions. I thought I knew what I wanted but obviously I don't know what I want. time to decide what my 90% will be.
Better to find out now before dropping $3,000 and 25 hours into the wrong items and wrecking the car.😁
@@danbytp there’s a whole build playlist by this point on my channel. Feel free to check it out.
@@AutoAli I'll check it out.Thanks for the info.
@@AutoAli Just checked out your playlist.It's fantastic!👍
Caution:
The M II kit usually raises the engine because of the cross member.
Not quite as bad as an FE in a 62-65.!!!
It does. And that makes for a higher center of gravity. Not good for cornering...of course if you are doing an FE, you probably aren't going around corners except to get to the return road.
How much higher do you think?
Need a big block in my ‘62 Ranchero! Need space...
Check out my AJE coilover McPherson strut install with hand made towers in my 63 Falcon Hardtop @Bag of Bones 1963 Falcon Build on Facebook. No videos yet. Thanks
what about ford granada
I can tell you that the Street Or Track front suspension/coilovers took my 66 Mustang to a cornering grip that is nearly equal to my 2015 GT Perf Pack. Once I get the matching rear 3 link/watts link rear kit I am betting my 66 slaughters my 2015 GT.
The turn in on my 66 is just nuts. 1.5deg neg camber, 5.5deg caster, 1/16 toe in. 225/45/17 tires all four corners and it grips very well.
Only gripe is Unisteer. God they do some stupid shit. Like deleting the holes in the cross member that would clear the lower control arm bolt. I had to plasma cut a brand new cross member because Unisteer deleted the holes that their own instruction manual shows being included.
So you're telling me I can't put a boss in a 67 Fairlane with stock suspension?
Depends on which boss you're putting in the engine bay. The Coyote 5.0 will be a problem mostly because of the width of the engine.
@@AutoRestoMod 429 boss
why does almost no one make front suspension for 1962 - 1965 Fairlane?
These Fairlane suspensions are unique. Nothing is common to other Fords.
Not many cars were built. They never were very popular. If it werent for the Tasca T Bolt cars these would have fallen into total obscurity.
Briefly: the upper arm is long but bolts into the frame like the big cars. The upper coil sits directly onto the upper arm, like most lower springs/arms do. The lower arms are unique. Geometry is ancient and sux.
Ive done several and own 2 personally. Your best improvement is Granada knuckles and modern H+ rated tires.
Theres more.
RRS (www.rrs-online.com.au/compact-fairlane-parts.html) offers a McPherson kit for that as well as a rack. You'll have to rebuild your lower arms though as they are not yet offering a replacement.
People should know if you want to go around corners don't hack it up and put a Pinto suspension in it unless you go Detroit Speed but then again it's a crime to call theirs just another Mustang II suspension kit. I have a Mike Maier MOD coilover system on my '69 Mustang and kit goes around corners as hard as my 50th LE Mustang.
Detroit Speed stuff is on another level to be sure. Like I said there are so many cool kits out there the video would have been five hours long; and I STILL would have left someone out. 😆
The Maier racing stuff is impressive. Add Street Or Track to the list. The front suspension alone in my 66 Mustang put my 66 just behind my 2015 GT PerfPack in cornering. Once I complete the rear suspension it will likely obliterate my 2015 in cornering prowess.
Did you get mod 1 or 2 from mike?
@@estebanhernandez660 MOD1 was the only one out at the time I got it. You can still notch the shock towers too
Future content...Power steering. How to iron out the squeaks and jitters.
Good idea Ben! We'll look into that.
Need more Galaxie info
It's coming Roy. I am looking into options now.
Great vid with the comparison of suspensions. Like you said “it all depends on what you wanna do with your car.”
The mustang ll was my choice and not only did it open up the engine bay, it also increased chassis strength in my 1965 Mustang.
Great read/info in your video description.👍👍
And thunderbird!
Yes and the thunderbird
Not much out there for the Thunderbird.
I installed some qa1 coil overs on my 69 mustang and it runs like crap. Everything raddled . And I have it on smooth setting .. is it normal?
Honestly I haven't used the QA1 set up. I'd give a call to the tech line and talk to them. Here is my email address, we can try and work out the bugs if there is no resolution with QA1: jford@autorestomod.com
Why not just use a Panther chassis swap in a big Ford if you can't tune a suspension .
All of the cars he mentioned in the beginning are all the same under the hoods and bodies.It's a money and distribution thing.I get it.
I'd say similar. There were differences.
@@AutoRestoMod Yes,smilar,you're right.However,I was able to fit a Mustang radiator into my 1966 Ford Falcon without modifying anything.Now that you mention it I remember the guy saying what you said.When the p!rts store referred me to a Mustang specialty place I thought he( the parts store,Auto zone,guy) was crazy.Thats when learned about the common ground of the Ford models of the 1960's-70's.
Stir Crazy
Not yet. But I am here 24-7 pretty much. Our house and office are on the same property.
👈Ya missed pushrod suspension 😉
We were talking about front suspensions. While there are some rear pushrod suspensions offered, the pushrod won't work up front.
@@AutoRestoMod
ruclips.net/video/8-UJe1UC_Wg/видео.html
1st again, see I'm waiting with baited breath
I even kept the OSB to a minimum for ya!
@@AutoRestoMod I love it, lol