Pattern Testing the 18th Century Amalia Jacket by Scroop Patterns
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- I was super excited to be able to participate in a pattern test for the brand new Amalia Jacket pattern, by Scroop Patterns/Virgil's Fine Goods. This is my first time sewing anything 18th century since 2014! It was a great way to jump back into the 18th century, because the pattern and instructions for the Amalia jacket are great, and I'm so pleased with my new caraco jacket.
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Ah, yes. I had exactly the same issue with my oldest when I made her wedding dress. The problem is well endowed girls and wide necklines. Opening that much space kind of takes away all the structural support. In order to compensate for that (wide neckline - ample chest) the whole upper structure needs to be shaped more like an upside down heart. So, instead of aiming the straps over the shoulder STRAIGHT up over the shoulder, they are angled inward more toward the spine. At least that's how they look when they are laid flat. If that makes sense. Ah, tears. I wish I could take that intense frustration away, but, apparently, it is part of the process. LOVE YOU, Lady Rebecca. Stay well.
Thank for the info, my daughter's got the same problem, big boobs tiny body.
@@lesleyharris525 🤭 hee hee. I hope it helps.
Yes, I've noticed that shape helping as well! And thank you! :)
I was thinking that to angle the bodice towards the back would smooth over that part would help but I'm not a seamstress.
It turned out beautifully. Thank you, for keeping it real instead of editing out the difficult moments.
Thank you! I know we all have struggles, and I think it's important to realize we're all in the same boat!
Frustration nausea is a real thing? I thought it was just me! I get so tired, frustrated, annoyed and my tummy hates me! I am glad you pushed through yours and made your way to a level of satisfaction. :) Soldier on!
I totally get it. And I know that's the point where I should probably quit, but then there's always the risk I won't pick it back up again!
My doctor says it’s like an abdominal migraine1
I get that a lot with significant frustration. I have never met anyone else that deals with that!
Horray! You did it! And now you’ve made so many gorgeous 18th century gowns that you are an expert!
hi im plus size and super tall and the key is that if your waist in your stays is significantly smaller than the stays, it does not do the job of pulling the stays down. Basically, your stays have a different bust to waist ratio than you and there is extra room at the very bottom that makes it so it can easily ride up because the nip in at the waist is not preventing it!! cheers
oh also! ive found a great way to fix it after the fact is to sew in a waist tape into your stays and make sure the waist tape is the same size exactly with no wiggle room as your waist, so it cant tug up
Yes, this definitely sounds like a fitting issue. Also a red flag is that the stays hurt. They aren't supposed to do that.
In fact, I would even go as far to say that a well-fitting pair of 18th century stays should be about as comfortable as any other sensible support garment of any era. If they are so uncomfortable that you can't harvest a field or wash dirty laundry by hand all day in them, like actually stay-wearing women did in the 18th century, then the problem is not the concept of stays itself but the individual fit.
Thank you! That all makes a lot of sense. I will have to try that waist stay idea.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions I recently learned that issue of rising stays can be because we with our modern knowledge think the stays of this era spread out from the natural waist, where as they tended to be bones an inch (or more) below the natural waist and then have tabs that flair out from there. It's super counter intuitive to me but looking at period plates, painting and drawing this looks to be very much the case.
@@ThePixiixiq Yeah, that's kind of how the ones I made are (going down below the natural waist before flaring into tabs) but they're the worst offenders!
I just finished Burnley and Trowbridge's 18th century gown making. Brooke had us line up the pleats on the cuff with the bend of the elbow. The circumference of the cuff is larger than the sleeve, so just whipstitch the bottom half edges of the cuff and the sleeve together, and just let the top hang free. Attaching sleeves made me nuts as well. So impressed you powered through- it turned out very pretty. : )
Attaching cuffs, I mean, not sleeves.
Attach the bottom half of the cuff to the sleeve, or attach the top and let the bottom hang free? I did the latter.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions She had us attach the bottom and leave the top free, but I thought it looked good the way you did it too.
I hope this comment is phrased in the complimentary way I mean: as an ultra beginner sewist, it is actually so inspiring to see that even people so talented as you get flummoxed by certain things. I've seen many of your videos, and your work is incredible. Seeing your whole process, even the frustration, reminds me not to give up when I get frustrated. Thank you for sharing: no doubt filming a video on top makes everything twice as long!
I have yet to see any color combination that doesn't compliment you... the dress is pretty and you area doing all the testing to benefit the rest of us so... thank you.
Thank you so much! :)
I really love this piece on you
It's so pretty. I could feel your pain and frustration and I am so glad you didn't cut those parts. You did a great job. Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Thank you so much!
I totally understand the frustration of trying to get a project right. I usually have several going & at least a couple I've grown disenchanted with on the furthest back burner. Great job of hanging in there! I totally love the material on this one!
Ooooooo! You did have enough for the petticoat! I'm delighted. 😍
The outfit looks so beautiful.
Just wish it hadn't been so frustrating for you.
I cant say that I have had that issue with stays....I'll wear mine tomorrow and report back! It is a nice jacket and I'm glad you got a matching petticoat out of the fabric!
Yes, let me know! See you in the chat?
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Yep! lol! My findings: 18th cen stays (with straps) move a lot more than Victorian corsets. I find that my stays sit so that the upper point of the tabs hit my natural waist and the center front also gives that flat out ward spring over the belly. The center top only comes up to just over the apex of my bust (wow is it low!), but is much higher on the sides so I dont feel like Im going to fall out. I was wearing my stays over a tank top and under my onesie, so there was no skirt weight keeping it down. Also, because of the straps I would lift my arms like a ballerina, without moving my shoulders.
@@Nessi-dances So you didn't find that it was riding up at all, especially after sitting?
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Nope and I did my day job while sitting. The big thing is that the stays do move and move differently to corsets, but for me they always went back with out effort on my part.
I feel your pain so much! I just started this pattern today, and immediately ran into problems with my sleeve mockup - they have obviously added more height to the sleeve head since your pattern test, but I found this made it way too poufy. I tried redrafting the head to reduce the pouf and that just caused the same issues you encountered with dragging the strap down my arm. So I went back to the original pattern piece, but then I found your video and watched how you fixed your sleeves - I followed the same steps and it has helped soooo much! 18th century sleeves really are the devil though. I appreciate you so much for persevering with this, and taking the pain out of it for us fellow costumers who follow in your brave footsteps! Much respect xxx
I'm so glad it was helpful, and that you were able to fix your sleeve!
Wow! You have WAY more patience than I EVER would for trying to get a pattern to work! I would have chucked it long ago. I don't think I'll use this pattern though. I'm not as patient or have as much knowledge on fitting. I bow to your sewing patience and knowledge! Whew!
I think they fixed a lot of the sleeve issues in the final pattern, and the neckline issues were mostly of my own making, since I lengthened the straps so much to begin with! So I wouldn't count this pattern out -- I think it's still worth a try!
I’m in exactly the same place your were in rn. I’m working on a late 1740s jacket and I’m SO close to being done, but then I had to do the sleeves.... This is the first time I’ve ever set in a sleeve and I’m kind of claustrophobic when it comes to restrictive clothing, ESPECIALLY sleeves and I’m also having to do this by myself, on myself. It’s been two months since I stalled and I definitely feel a bit nauseous every time I look at it. This video helped my confidence a bit. Your project turned out beautifully! If anyone has any tips for sleeve first-timers please send them my way!
Not that it helps, but no matter how expert at sewing you are, everyone hates sleeves! They are the bane of the sewing world!
Sleeves are so tough, and I honestly think 18th c sleeves are the worst. They are so much easier with another person to help, so that would be my first recommendation if at all possible. Otherwise, you kind of just have to do what I did, and do it over and over again.
So true. Yet another reason why I love puffed sleeves -- so much easier!
Wow that turned out so beautifully!! Congrats on powering through procrastination is a big problem for lots of us!! I’m procrastinating right now!
Thank you! I am terrible about procrastinating on things I don't want to do!
I love your videos!!! Thanks for uploading forus, and congratulations on participating in this!!!
Thank you so much!
Your sleeve is definitely on backwards the seam actually goes towards the back of the dress that bubbles to be on your shoulder on the top
This is a two piece sleeve, so there is a seam in both the back and the front. I will have to give the waist stay a try for the stays, though.
gosh I wish I'd seen this when you posted it...I spent all of October (...okay probably only a week of October but it FELT LIKE FOREVER) wrestling with an 18th century sleeve for an advanced draping project! I couldn't get it to like...look right AND be able to fit a human arm. I don't know how they did those dang pleats but I must have draped and re-draped my sleeve pattern like...I think I have three separate mock-ups, each of which got adjusted at least twice. I finally got a shape I was happy with, that I was fairly confident would fit a human arm, and cut into my fashion fabric...only to find that the sleeve and the bodice armscye somehow got mismatched during the move from muslin to fashion fabric! Even though I checked and double checked that it wasn't so!
The sleeves and shoulders now have way more pin marks and tracks than I would want (the poor silk taffeta...) BUT: I work in theatre so hopefully no audience will ever notice and I will simply be judged by myself and whatever future technicians try to alter it.
Seriously, how did they even do those sleeves???
I swear, these sleeves are so immensely frustrating unless you're actually fitting them on the person who's going to be wearing it. Which is what they did, but that's just not practical most of the time (esp if you're making it for yourself!)
I love this. Seeing you struggle with this makes me feel better about struggling with some patterns. It looks great!
Thanks! I feel like we all probably struggle with a lot of points in the process of whatever we make. It's tough!
Thank you so much for sharing your frustration. I finally got a wearable muslin pj shorts made up for my daughter and I got so frustrated at points that I started to wonder if I should be sewing. Knowing that I am not alone and even super skilled people can have those moments helps me feel less like a failure. Representation matters
if you need help with 18th century gowns - I've made about 3 dozen. your sleeve won't bubble if it is tighter and turned slightly. I'm local with you and am willing to help.
I love this video, I'm so glad you left all your problems in, it makes it real for us.
I do love the two trees in your garden, when you stand between. You look lovely.
I test patterns for some crochet designers in America, I'm in the UK, so I understand your frustration, unpicking and re doing. Love n hugs xx
Thank you so much! (And yes, those trees have served as a nice background for all my pictures this year!)
Yes! I've been waiting for a video like this. I already bought the released pattern. The day it came out im pretty sure 😁
Thank you! Good luck in making yours!
Remember that Abby and Nicole/American Duchess are experienced at this. Reach out to your peers when you are stuck!
Yeah, I watched a couple of their tutorials while making this. But they still all use a friend to help set sleeves.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions But they also video chat with each other when they are stuck, and may have suggestions to make it less frustrating. I’m sorry you don’t have any access to additional humans right now. 💗
ah, you look great! this was a great video-- it's useful to see how other sewists manage and push through on frustrating projects. i was thinking, and please feel free to disregard this if you're not looking for input, but re- the gapping at the neckline, something i've seen done a lot in opera costume shops for fitting low necklines on busty women is piping the neckline, then using the piping cord as a subtle drawstring to pull the neckline in and help contain the bust. this might not work as well on a front-opening bodice, but maybe it's a trick that could come in handy down the road. anyway, have a happy happy new year!
The piping idea is interesting, and Scroop patterns did mention that you could put a tiny drawstring in the top, to act in the same way. I'm hoping that my final fixes solved the problem, but I haven't actually tried it on again since fixing it!
@@LadyRebeccaFashions well, it already looks great, and i bet a break from that project is pretty nice.can't wait to see what you make next!
I loved seeing you make the skirt, now seeing what goes on top just makes it even better.
Plus seeing your workroom change over the course of this project was amazing. :}
Thank you! Yeah, it's like having little teasers or time lapses go on in the background. ;)
Try putting waist tape in your stays ur waist is problby to small for them
Watch the whole video and now I want to make an Amalia Jacket too 🥰
You totally should!
So glad I watched this. I was tempted to do stays as I love my off the rack corset but stays seem easier to make. Think I’ll persevere with making a corset.
I think Victorian corsets are probably a little easier to make than stays, but almost all of that is because binding the tabs on stays is basically my idea of sewing hell. lol.
I hand baste a lot because I am forever pricking myself with pins and I hate ripping out seams. I will get to point of nausea frustration if I do too much of it. I also enjoy hand sewing, and that makes a difference. Plus, you don't even have to care about the looks of hand basted seams. It's great.
I guess my problem with basting is - don't you have to pin it into place so that you can baste it? It just seems like an additional step to me that's not really needed.
Lovely fabric.!
Oh boy, am I glad that you get frustrated too. Spent this afternoon making strawberry ice cream - um, not getting two completely different recipes mixed up might have helped😂.
It's encouraging that those with vast experience get problems with things too and have trouble sorting it all out is reassuring. That you are 'test driving' this pattern is pretty brave. Thank you for being so honest about the issues you came across and had to solve.
18th century sleeves seams i beleive are usually in the back
I don’t have the same body shape as you but I do have sympathy for your frustrations. I love that you explain everything along the way!
I feel less crazy now for feeling like my stays are riding up my body, especially after sitting.... I'd also like to know if it's a fitting issue and what to do to help the issue.
I'm glad it's not just me! Someone else recommended sewing a waist stay in, like in a Victorian corset, so I think I will have to give that a try.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions I was just going to suggest that. On your other issue about wanting a stomacher and robing if you go to Costume in Detail (page 67) there are diagrams of a set of lace robing, stomacher and wing cuffs that lay on top of the bodice. I have made an embroidered set, but I am sure you could fashion a set out of lace with edging (motifs and/or chunky lace). I am so glad I found you because I am a plus and it helps to see someone who is curvy tackling historical dress.
@@sueacord1678 Another great plus size costumer is Pocket Full of Poseys
@@sueacord1678 Yeah, I was tempted to see if there is a way to add an optional stomacher piece to this, but I'm not sure if it would look right.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions This was just a decorative overlay piece that lays over the front opening. The original was lace so it was not stiff so the stomacher piece laid over opening and the robing was laid over the shoulders and secured in desired position.
Oh my gosh... I just want to give you s giant hug when you have so much struggle... 💞... In the end you get it.. 💪👍💞... And you look great... So beautiful... 💞
Thank you! It was definitely a challenge!
Omg so cute
I absolutely adore that jacket!! I now feel more inspired to start my 18th century riding jacket using a self drafted pattern. I can completely understand the struggles of 18th century sleeves and I end up using a more modern sleeve instead of a historically accurate sleeve (the seam would probably be at an accurate location but not constructed in the historical method).
Ooh, a riding jacket sounds lovely! And thanks!
I absolutely hate hand sewing. I know its historically correct, but I'd rather use modern seam finishing (server) and just concentrate on getting the exterior of the garment looking correct. Each to his/her own I guess.
Yep, I completely agree!
How people fit those sleeves by them selves always baffles me! They look really great in the end, so you frustration at least paid off there :D
Thank you! It was really challenging to do by myself. Hopefully by the time I next attempt 18th c, the lockdowns will be over!
I have the same tummy curve issue. I solved it with a busk in my stays. Easy peasy. just don't drive in the busk ! I want to see this at the NW Colonial Festival this year!!!
I hope to be able to wear it there!
Really cute jacket. Will definitely have to keep this pattern in mind.
Thank you! 😊
Thanks for showing your process!
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Rebecca I got a problem I done a lot of dresses but never made a 1850 dress. I am Swedish so some of the names on pattern are new to me. Not shore what it means.1 Mancheron"2"chest pad foder no explanation hove and we're to pot it. 3.bodice front over play?4 tucked Mancherons. 5'anev cartridge plated to the bottom of the bodice. 6 wave braid aronde the neck. There no explanation and no pic?? The are new to me please wold be glad if some one cold help me 🥺
Oh gosh, that's not a word I know in English, either! It almost sounds like maybe Spanish or French?
Thanks,I've seen the outfit on your manikin and been thinking tell us about your beautiful dress, it's so pretty,and you should be very proud to wear this.if we are ever allowed out again.
Thank you! I'm hoping that if the colonial festival happens this Aug, maybe I'll be able to wear this there. :)
Oh that's adorable and looks so cute on you. Happy New Year to you and yours.
Thank you! Happy new year to you too!
In bought EBay cheap corsets, I get the ride up problem. It’s an entire fit issue and it’s resolved by moving the lacing loops down a few holes so the waist sits at my waist. If those aren’t custom stays it may be that they’re short waisted. Since those things start as cones until you break them them bend the busks I thought it might translate...
If you’re spiral lacing, do not know.
( I did not have a clue about making corsets custom, so I bought them and tweaked them)
Aww, I just want to give you a big virtual hug at 41:15!
Aww, thank you. :)
Sleeves. Ugh. Sometimes you just have to put stuff away for a while till you can deal with it.
I'm glad it turned out so pretty!
I keep wondering if every time you fitted it, your stays were in a slightly different place? I know every time I put my battle armour on, I roll the dice to see if it fits the way it did last time I wore it.
I honestly do always wonder that when I'm making/wearing things - like how differently am I lacing myself up each time...?
I have similar fit issues every time I make a late 18th century bodice. I end up putting sneaky darts in the straps and hiding with trim/fichu.
I also have that duvet set. Been procrastinating about sewing it.
Fichus hide so many sins! I hope you find something fun to use your duvet for!
Wow, good job! You look like the old paintings of Betsy Ross in those colors :D
Thank you! 😊
A busk in your stays might help a bit with the curving over the tummy area. Or you just lean into it and go all swoopy 1780s in your silhouette :)
Well done!
Thanks!
How did you handle the pleats? I’ve struggled getting them to lie flat at the waist. Also I’ve had trouble sewing them in place, my stitches are so very visible at the waist.
I didn't actually wind up following the pleat placement of the pattern, so I can't really say for certain!
I would like your opinion on something. but first a bit of history...when I was 10 I was in a car accident I fractured my 10 -11- and 12 vertebrae....due to the time -1971- -I was treated with the latest tech....instead of a body cast i was fitted with a brace that I wore for nearly 2 years.....I had wonderful posture when it came off...then the pain started and I had slumped shoulders. it hurt to stand tall. because I could walk the doctors weren't concerned. we got back...at least you can walk.... whenever I complained of pain.....my mother, god bless her, would order all these long line bras and under garments but they would curl up at the waist and make me miserable in the hot humid summers of the south. now... question....is there a corset out there that could help me stand straighter? my problem now is my spine is curving to the left at the area of the worse of the old break (11) this is the thoracic area of my spine by the way.. I look at your corsets and they are made of cotton instead of that awful stretchy :"18 hour bra stuff fabric". even if it wouldn't help my posture wonder if it will help with pain when I stand too long. would like your opinion.
To be honest, I really wouldn't know the answer to that. I think corsets do often help with back support, but you would probably need to consult with a chiropractor or other medical professional to make sure you wind up wearing the right one.
try weighting the tabs (attach washers) to the tabs and see if that helps displace gravity?
I don't think that would work - I think that would just add to the weight my body has to carry.
It looks to me like you put the wrong sleeve in. Try the other sleeve in that armcye
imo corsets fixed what was wrong with stays!
100% Agree!
I ALWAYS STRONG WITH RIDING UP. If you get the answer please share.
A couple people commented that it might help to sew a waist stay in like a Victorian corset. I think I will have to give it a try!
Which jackass disliked the video? Why f-ck with someone’s income? If you don’t like the video, and it’s not harmful... MOVE ON.
Basting is the difference between sewing for the Chanel atelier and the rest of us. Also, pattern weights. Embrace the baste!
Watch American Gods is on 18 century sleeve that will explain it all