Just finished installing AMP on my 88 K5 Many nights of no sleeping designing them but they turned out great. Would tuck under truck but with a 6" lift I wanted them to be lower. Added a 3" extension Mine drop 13". I made a bracket that attached to the body so I did not have any problems with alignment and the are level and strong. I used F250 style Amp steps, has 4 motors
I know I'm late to the party here, but if you still have this truck you should check out the AMP Research Powerstep XL. It's meant for lifted trucks and drops about 4 inches lower than the standard power steps that you have on your rig.
I have been wondering how to install these steps on my 77 gmc so thank u soooo much man. I freaking love your videos and your information and most of all your ideas...I just saw 6our video about quitting your commission job and moving into a bigger space... congrats man. Your living my dream life. I hope some day I can do what u r doing, unfortunately i have a lot of hurdles in my way, but at least I kind of get to live through your videos, so thank u again. Keep it up bro!!!!
i`ve been looking everywhere for someone to do a detailed install on a squarebody with saddle tanks. At least this is one step closer than anything else I have found. Looks awesome!
@@ehenson99 You have somewhere you posted pictures of the steps you took? Did you make new saddle tank brackets that support the steps? Or only come off of the frame? I have a single cab short bed 87.
I guess i should have read your comment a little more before responding. My K10 originally had the saddle tanks but I have removed them and put the blazer tank in the rear for my LS swap. I have the cavities that the saddle tanks used to be but they are gone now. I didnt see a way to do these steps with the tanks. Without the tanks its not that hard to install. I did it a little different than this guy.
@@ehenson99 I bet so. One way or another I want to make them work. A truck shop up the road from me figured out a way to do it keeping the saddle tanks but they want you to pay for it. I hate to remove the tanks as everything is new and freshly painted. I'm still waiting for my cab and other pieces to return from the body shop, so I still have a ways to go. Thanks for the reply though!
Nice. I’ve seen em on K5s. One built for “The King” Richard Petty specifically. Can’t remember where I saw it,maybe on the YooToobz. That was one slick ride. But I never learned which model they used to catch the correct length for the K5’s shorter run. Keep up the great work 🤘🏼
If I could subscribe 2million times I will do over and over again, you are amazing, love your attitude And enjoy your content, I’m in the process of doing an LS Swap to my 1984 Ford F-250 4wd, you are very inspiring 👍
On my K5 on 42s i have to sit on the bottom door jam, lift up my right leg till my foot is on the threshold grab the windshield pillar and pull myself into the seat. It sucks since I gained weight lol... Im going to try integrating a metal plate power step that folds flush into a rock slider. Keep up the good work
@@MerricksGarage yep I was trying to figure out the rock slider thing to also a protective cover for the motor and step so it don't get frozen amd break ......
@@MerricksGarage Just trying to minimize my frustration based on your experience My boys and I would like to meet up on a drive some day. Love what you are doing
It looks like you attached those brackets from the frame to the body with no rubber isolators. Your body to frame mounts are made with rubber isolators to stop vibrations and harmonics from traveling from the frame into the body and to allow the body to flex independently from the frame. Attaching those brackets solid like that just eliminated that protection. You probably won’t notice the extra possible vibrations in the body because the Cummins engine will mask it but if your body sheet metal starts to crack around the mounting area in the future, that will be the reason. When I worked at the Chevrolet dealership back in the 80’s I saw that happen from some aftermarket running boards. Running boards need to be mounted either to the frame or to the body, not both.
@@MerricksGarage man haha Im trying to retrofit a GMC electric running board I got for cheap has a 5 pin pigtail to the motor I can buy the amp research harness are they 5 pin connectors?
You said steps are from a dodge 2500 , what year and is it extended cab our mega cab? About to order the steps so I can install it in my 1988 suburban. Thanks for all the info
What measurement is the amp step that needs to get order or for what SUV should I order it for? Have 88 suburban I’ve been trying add that step to. Thanks
No, I still used their harness as it runs through their control box. I wired it into the courtesy light switch (which triggers dome light). You still need to use their control box to make the deployment and retraction smooth and functional.
I know how you could make these work with sliders. Build 4 individual steps that are shorter instead of the length of the truck and then you’ll have enough space to work around them with plate and tubes and id think you’d be able to mount them even lower making it even easier to climb in. Wouldn’t this company make shorter steps for single cabs? If they don’t the need to because then I bet a bunch of guys with sliders or those that want to incorporate them into their builds 4 door or 2 door.
I actually have another idea for the sliders. I’m gonna use the outrigger square tube as a mount for the sliders and a mount for the steps. That way I can interchange
Really good for road, but offroad can happend you hang with slides... and I don't think these are so strong to survive ath the weight of the car... Let we see next video offroad using slides..?
@@MerricksGarage for sure I can understand not all the American speech, but looking at your valuable making I'm still not sure it can survive in an hard "square body" tour... obviously I hope I'm wrong and it will last for a long time !
Just finished installing AMP on my 88 K5 Many nights of no sleeping designing them but they turned out great. Would tuck under truck but with a 6" lift I wanted them to be lower.
Added a 3" extension Mine drop 13". I made a bracket that attached to the body so I did not have any problems with alignment and the are level and strong. I used F250 style Amp steps, has 4 motors
I know I'm late to the party here, but if you still have this truck you should check out the AMP Research Powerstep XL. It's meant for lifted trucks and drops about 4 inches lower than the standard power steps that you have on your rig.
Great job! Never cease to level up the square bodies
Looks great! Thanks for letting people know about the white wire on the light switch too
I wanted to install one of those steps on my 1 ton dually 3+3.
Thanks for sharing this video!
a fresh white paint job and 5% tint all the way around and this thing will be so perfect
I have been wondering how to install these steps on my 77 gmc so thank u soooo much man. I freaking love your videos and your information and most of all your ideas...I just saw 6our video about quitting your commission job and moving into a bigger space... congrats man. Your living my dream life. I hope some day I can do what u r doing, unfortunately i have a lot of hurdles in my way, but at least I kind of get to live through your videos, so thank u again. Keep it up bro!!!!
Those aren’t hurdles, those are opportunities to learn something new! You will never run out of hurdles. Change your perspective on them!
Still wearing the Giffin hat 🤙🏽 Best company Ive worked for.
Need these on my K5.
i`ve been looking everywhere for someone to do a detailed install on a squarebody with saddle tanks. At least this is one step closer than anything else I have found. Looks awesome!
I've done it, what do you need to know?
@@ehenson99 You have somewhere you posted pictures of the steps you took? Did you make new saddle tank brackets that support the steps? Or only come off of the frame? I have a single cab short bed 87.
I guess i should have read your comment a little more before responding. My K10 originally had the saddle tanks but I have removed them and put the blazer tank in the rear for my LS swap. I have the cavities that the saddle tanks used to be but they are gone now. I didnt see a way to do these steps with the tanks. Without the tanks its not that hard to install. I did it a little different than this guy.
With that being said, its totally worth the work to ditch the saddle tanks to do this, these steps are awesome.
@@ehenson99 I bet so. One way or another I want to make them work. A truck shop up the road from me figured out a way to do it keeping the saddle tanks but they want you to pay for it. I hate to remove the tanks as everything is new and freshly painted. I'm still waiting for my cab and other pieces to return from the body shop, so I still have a ways to go. Thanks for the reply though!
Nice. I’ve seen em on K5s. One built for “The King” Richard Petty specifically. Can’t remember where I saw it,maybe on the YooToobz. That was one slick ride. But I never learned which model they used to catch the correct length for the K5’s shorter run. Keep up the great work 🤘🏼
Very cool!
If I could subscribe 2million times I will do over and over again, you are amazing, love your attitude And enjoy your content, I’m in the process of doing an LS Swap to my 1984 Ford F-250 4wd, you are very inspiring 👍
Thanks homey! Attitude is everything.
The video was awesome! I've seen several of your videos and I am a subscriber. Very informative.
Very nice.
Cool addition!
This was the first mod I knew I was gonna do when I bought the burb ha ha
@@MerricksGarage I love it, I would go this direction too but the extra electronics does not fit the theme of my build.
I appreciate this video very much.
On my K5 on 42s i have to sit on the bottom door jam, lift up my right leg till my foot is on the threshold grab the windshield pillar and pull myself into the seat. It sucks since I gained weight lol... Im going to try integrating a metal plate power step that folds flush into a rock slider. Keep up the good work
The struggle is real!
Awesome 👌 thank you 👍.
I was planning on putting a set on my 1991 suburban
They fit. They just take work!
@@MerricksGarage yep I was trying to figure out the rock slider thing to also a protective cover for the motor and step so it don't get frozen amd break ......
Would like to see more close up on the steel bracket you welded to the frame.
meh, its not really worth sharing. I need to revise it
@@MerricksGarage
Just trying to minimize my frustration based on your experience
My boys and I would like to meet up on a drive some day.
Love what you are doing
I like your channel, thumbs up and I subbed, great video, love my burban
Thanks for the sub!
It looks like you attached those brackets from the frame to the body with no rubber isolators. Your body to frame mounts are made with rubber isolators to stop vibrations and harmonics from traveling from the frame into the body and to allow the body to flex independently from the frame. Attaching those brackets solid like that just eliminated that protection. You probably won’t notice the extra possible vibrations in the body because the Cummins engine will mask it but if your body sheet metal starts to crack around the mounting area in the future, that will be the reason. When I worked at the Chevrolet dealership back in the 80’s I saw that happen from some aftermarket running boards. Running boards need to be mounted either to the frame or to the body, not both.
I know. It’s temporary
They look good I like them alot but I wonder how they would work in Wisconsin with the snow packing up on them
Its a super strong electric motor. Pretty standard equipment on most cars. They are sealed and I am sure can handle some snow and dirt
Sick
Are you aware that AMP Research has a 2" extension so the step comes down an extra 2". I have them on mine and love it of course.
I have questions on the wiring? How does the door closing actuate the step back up?
you have to use the box that AMP provides with the step. The door jam switch will trigger it
@@MerricksGarage man haha Im trying to retrofit a GMC electric running board I got for cheap has a 5 pin pigtail to the motor I can buy the amp research harness are they 5 pin connectors?
You said steps are from a dodge 2500 , what year and is it extended cab our mega cab?
About to order the steps so I can install it in my 1988 suburban.
Thanks for all the info
These are the XL but only for the extended cab I believe
Good looking rig, is that overhead console factory?
yup!
How tall is the lift on this truck? Looks like about 8”?
What measurement is the amp step that needs to get order or for what SUV should I order it for? Have 88 suburban I’ve been trying add that step to. Thanks
I am still working on seeing if there are any other step brackets that make it easier. The length of the step is the main issue.
So you made your own harness and used power from done light?
No, I still used their harness as it runs through their control box. I wired it into the courtesy light switch (which triggers dome light).
You still need to use their control box to make the deployment and retraction smooth and functional.
@@MerricksGarage gotcha. I was going to try to make my own harness. But i guess ill use it
What would you recommend for the blazer like which year and make from AMP steps?
what was the part # on the steps? These the Extended length steps?
How does your truck ride ? And what kinda lift did you put on it
It’s got about 6-8” and 2” body. Custom off-road design leaf springs
I need this for reasons. okay. so g.f. can get in with ease. and how did you mount the lights towards the steps?
off of the door sill bottom
I guess no on the free 1993 4x4 set up for cummins
Huh?
Are those running boards plastic ?
No aluminum
I know how you could make these work with sliders. Build 4 individual steps that are shorter instead of the length of the truck and then you’ll have enough space to work around them with plate and tubes and id think you’d be able to mount them even lower making it even easier to climb in. Wouldn’t this company make shorter steps for single cabs? If they don’t the need to because then I bet a bunch of guys with sliders or those that want to incorporate them into their builds 4 door or 2 door.
I actually have another idea for the sliders. I’m gonna use the outrigger square tube as a mount for the sliders and a mount for the steps. That way I can interchange
Is that the 7” ord lift buddy
Sounds about right!
and where did you get yrr transfer case and drive shaft ?
Tom Woods!
How did you wire the door switches to their wiring harness? There are two wires but I don't want to burn anything up. Any help would be apprieciated
Use the dome light wire off the back of the headlight switch
1,000 a side .... nooope
Really good for road, but offroad can happend you hang with slides... and I don't think these are so strong to survive ath the weight of the car...
Let we see next video offroad using slides..?
did you watch the whole video? I get into the slider vs steps
@@MerricksGarage for sure I can understand not all the American speech, but looking at your valuable making I'm still not sure it can survive in an hard "square body" tour... obviously I hope I'm wrong and it will last for a long time !
Make it a kit and start selling it to us dumbasses like me please