Hi mate had a similar problem he done this and it worked - DCT Initialization: Hold down the D button, then turn on the ignition. When the mill light goes out, release the D. (usually about 2-3 seconds) Press this sequence: D, D, N, D, N. Start the bike. (It will clink and clunk a bit while it goes through the process - It's OK!) When TOUR is displayed the process is complete.
Mine did a similar thing and it was my key fob that had switched off. I don't know if its a safety thing or I turned it off by accident but I had a look in the manual about the key fob and after playing about with the buttons the bike came back on. Hope you get it sorted.
Push it back 10yds and try. I can't remember if ignition should be on or off but it's worked twice for me, one time with an almighty bang from the gearbox. If the procedure to shut the bike down isn't to it's liking this can happen. Always make sure the bike is in neutral before ignition is turned off. Once the kill switch was knocked whilst in motion and the 10yd trick worked. This tip came from US site where the rider had run out of petrol. I wa sceptical but desperate but it worked.
12v is not enough. Charge it more. I use two lithium batteries in parallel and that does the trick every time. Also smaller than the original even with two. I include a dead switch for longer storage all wrapped up together and it still uses less space than the original.
Completely different bike but just in case. Guzzi 1200 Norge eats batteries if you dont run or charge it for more than a couple of days. When the battery is low on charge it sometimes blows a little 15A fuse when you crank it over. Thereafter there is nothing. Until you work this out its really confusing. They are those little bayonet fuses here its haard to see if the wire is intact or not. Good luck
Do you have a Lithium battery fitted ? I found out to my cost that you need a specific charger for it otherwise it blows the fuse in the battery making it useless and very costly
I was using a CTEK charger and that had no problems until I tried to recover the battery this time. CTEK's work on all sorts of batteries, but in light of its failure I had an Optimate 4 and that did the job according to the battery tester
Mine was the same charger but it didn’t state it was for a lithium battery, does your charger say it’s suitable for it ? To get one supplied and fitted to my Africa Twin was £800 !!!!!!!
Charge it up for 24 hours, leave to rest for 2 hours, then put a volt meter on it... if you haven't got a voltmeter, connect to bike, turn on but not start then read the GW voltage in the display. A good battery at rest should show a minimum of 12.6V-12.9V. With the bike running the voltage should show as 13.5V-14V (this tells you if the alternator is working well). Once the battery goes down to 12V it's useless.
Thanks for the guidance. The output of the battery was good. The AA man had more kit than me and the voltage when the bike was running was 13.9. The reason the bike would not start was the key.
Still waiting. First deadline was 11am, second was 12.30 and the third 5.30 and still no sign. When my BMW broke down outside and I called BMW Assist, they were here in 20 minutes.
Your battery is probably dead. You need to have it load tested. Carrying a charge isn't the same as having the cranking amps to start the bike. For the amount involved buy a new battery. This isn't Honda's fault, you admitted you drained the battery, more than likely, to the point of no return. Then again, check your key fob, lol.
Not denying responsibility and not blaming Honda. The battery tester says everything is good and if when the AA get here and tell me the battery is dead, then I will happily buy a new one from Honda. Key is on but need to refit the battery to test it.
Can your battery tester perform a load test? I have the CTek MXS5.0 that I use on my bikes and it has several stage tests that it performs over about 5 to 8 hours before it settles into its pulse charging cycle. If a test is failed, it goes no further, thus telling me that my battery is dead. Does your CTek do similar?
Hi mate had a similar problem he done this and it worked
-
DCT Initialization:
Hold down the D button, then turn on the ignition.
When the mill light goes out, release the D. (usually about
2-3 seconds)
Press this sequence: D, D, N, D, N.
Start the bike. (It will clink and clunk a bit while it goes through the process - It's OK!)
When TOUR is displayed the process is complete.
Thanks, will try it
Mine did a similar thing and it was my key fob that had switched off. I don't know if its a safety thing or I turned it off by accident but I had a look in the manual about the key fob and after playing about with the buttons the bike came back on. Hope you get it sorted.
TheAA are on their way, but I will look at the key, thanks
can you tri a car batt ?is there somwere a owner club of the goldwing , and are all the fuses good ? can you put the lichts on ?
Didn't need to in the end. My Optimate 4 recovered the battery and resetting the key solved the 'dead' issue.
Push it back 10yds and try. I can't remember if ignition should be on or off but it's worked twice for me, one time with an almighty bang from the gearbox. If the procedure to shut the bike down isn't to it's liking this can happen. Always make sure the bike is in neutral before ignition is turned off. Once the kill switch was knocked whilst in motion and the 10yd trick worked.
This tip came from US site where the rider had run out of petrol. I wa sceptical but desperate but it worked.
I will try, thanks
I turn my key fob off by pressing the button and seeing the red light flash. This to save key fob battery. Is your fob battery good?
It is, I tested it this morning
12v is not enough. Charge it more. I use two lithium batteries in parallel and that does the trick every time. Also smaller than the original even with two. I include a dead switch for longer storage all wrapped up together and it still uses less space than the original.
Completely different bike but just in case. Guzzi 1200 Norge eats batteries if you dont run or charge it for more than a couple of days. When the battery is low on charge it sometimes blows a little 15A fuse when you crank it over. Thereafter there is nothing. Until you work this out its really confusing. They are those little bayonet fuses here its haard to see if the wire is intact or not. Good luck
Thanks, worth considering
Do you have a Lithium battery fitted ? I found out to my cost that you need a specific charger for it otherwise it blows the fuse in the battery making it useless and very costly
I was using a CTEK charger and that had no problems until I tried to recover the battery this time. CTEK's work on all sorts of batteries, but in light of its failure I had an Optimate 4 and that did the job according to the battery tester
Mine was the same charger but it didn’t state it was for a lithium battery, does your charger say it’s suitable for it ? To get one supplied and fitted to my Africa Twin was £800 !!!!!!!
WOW! @@paulharvey8232
@@HighlandRider Hopefully the batteries are more reasonable these days !
Charge it up for 24 hours, leave to rest for 2 hours, then put a volt meter on it... if you haven't got a voltmeter, connect to bike, turn on but not start then read the GW voltage in the display. A good battery at rest should show a minimum of 12.6V-12.9V. With the bike running the voltage should show as 13.5V-14V (this tells you if the alternator is working well). Once the battery goes down to 12V it's useless.
Thanks for the guidance. The output of the battery was good. The AA man had more kit than me and the voltage when the bike was running was 13.9. The reason the bike would not start was the key.
Fuse before the starter relay ?
Thanks, worth a check
Is your kill switch off?
No, even if it was, the lights and dash would come on, it just wouldn't start
Thanks anyway, always worth a check
The kill switch doubles as the start button.
Any word from the AA?
Still waiting. First deadline was 11am, second was 12.30 and the third 5.30 and still no sign. When my BMW broke down outside and I called BMW Assist, they were here in 20 minutes.
@@HighlandRider Thats a pain in the ass!
At least I am home@@LeytonC
@@HighlandRider yes, that is good!
Your battery is probably dead. You need to have it load tested. Carrying a charge isn't the same as having the cranking amps to start the bike. For the amount involved buy a new battery. This isn't Honda's fault, you admitted you drained the battery, more than likely, to the point of no return. Then again, check your key fob, lol.
PS, I have the same bike and colour and live 170km from my servicing dealer.
Not denying responsibility and not blaming Honda. The battery tester says everything is good and if when the AA get here and tell me the battery is dead, then I will happily buy a new one from Honda. Key is on but need to refit the battery to test it.
Can your battery tester perform a load test? I have the CTek MXS5.0 that I use on my bikes and it has several stage tests that it performs over about 5 to 8 hours before it settles into its pulse charging cycle. If a test is failed, it goes no further, thus telling me that my battery is dead. Does your CTek do similar?
It’s the canbus it thinks the battery dead need to connect to diagnostic tool
That makes sense