Honestly, I had never really thought about cleats and pedals at this level of detail. Even after a good decade of on/off use, I was ignorant on a lot of important information.
Doddy,Thank you so much for doing this video. I have been riding with SPD pedals for over 20 years and I have never seen a video with such detailed and excellent explanation regarding this equipment. I try to learn something new everyday, and I have found that I learn something new with every video that you guys make. Ya'll do excellent work and I have greatly enjoyed watching your videos. Chris
Either I'm totally dense or I just didnt get the way many other guys' explained this process. For some reason you hit the nail on the head with your version of setting up Mtn bike cleats. Thank you for taking the time to explain this so even I can understand it. Count on me as a subscriber
Absolutely great explanation. One of the few videos that actually explained the SH 56 M cleat multi release option for Shimano SPD. I been riding Shimano pedals for 30 years and I have worked in a ski / bike shop. The Shimano with SH 56 M is a great choice for first time recreational riding. Personally I run this cleat on my trail shoes for the extra release in rock gardens at my local trails. Yes occasionally I pre release but I am not racing or riding in a competitive situation so there’s not to lose. I do have flats for playing around and practicing but love the feeling of the Shimano SPD. I do run the SH 51 cleat on my road and gravel bikes because release is not an issue and they are included with the pedals.
As a previous viewer alluded, I have been riding with Shimano SPD pedals & SM-SH51 cleats for about 25 years and I have never seen a video with such detailed explanation. I always use elbow protectors under my jersey, even for city rides, just in case the shoes don't get released timely. I think it has happened twice or so during my cycling 'career'. Elbow protection made the difference between going home or to ER!
Thank you so much! I know this was posted a while ago but I just got into cycling and this was the only video that was educational and truly taught me why I would make a change and the impact it makes!
Not mentioned in the vid, Crank Brothers sell metal shields that go onto your shoe before the cleat. Gives the clip-in a nice audible metallic click when you're in. Some might not like it though because it might make your shoes feel "icey" on the pedals. To each his own.
Back in the day, I used to ride with pedals that had "toe-clips", and yes they were popular thing (not very safe, but it is what we had). Shimano came along and developed SPD "clipless pedals" in the early 1990's. The term clipless, came from the plastic toe clip that extended from the metal portion of the pedal being removed and your shoe was held to the pedal by the cleat. I understand your point of why are we calling them "clipless pedals", but that is a basic run down of where the term originated.
Absolutely brilliant advice with all the little differences the adjustments make. Cross country vs down hill. Using your calf muscles vs being able to disengage..etc 🤙
I just learned a lot about clip pedals. I bought some Hellcat shoes and Crank Brothers Mallets. Rode them once on the trails, could not unclip, stopped riding for the season. That was a real down moment for me. I willl need to look into this again. Thanks
I have the same combo and the key to gaining confidence really is bike time. Start up agaisnt a wall or something similar and use it to balance as u practise feeling for the cleat and actually clipping in. Normally most people prefer to start by looking down to help find where the cleat is, but start trying to look ahead and just feel for the clip with ur shoe. Once you start riding take it slow. Put on some knee and elbow pads and head out to your lawn, or any surface that is soft. Start by riding off with only one foot clipped in and then after a bit try clipping the other one in. Keep riding in circles at a steady pace and when your ready to stop, you need to think about were your going to stop before you do it. That way if u cant unclip before the chosen point , you still have speed and can just keep riding. To unclip i find it easiest to point your toes down, whilst the cranks are at the 12pm position, and push down and outwards at the same time. This forces your heel out and should unclip u straight away. Once youve gotten the hang of clipping in and out, confidence will come naturally, as u are no longer worried about rolling over cause u cant unclip. Unclipping when u slide in a turn is a little diffrenet, and since you cant really practise it, you can only hope that the countless times youve practised agaisnt a wall will have commited the "unclip" movement to muscle memory. Thats why i prefer to always unclip with cranks at 12pm position , cause ur supposed to drop ur outside foot.
TY TY TY TY I've had such a problem with corners I'm a newbie about a year.. I guess I'm a dumb ass. Never thought about getting off sadle in corners. Now since this video I'm flying around corners that would have sent me off trail... ty
Just took my first ride on clipless pedals around my court. it took me about 5 min to get both feet clipped in. and then when I came back to my porch I dead sailored. didn't think about grabbing on to anything and my feet did come out... These are going to need some practice before they go on any trails.
Don't forget HT Components pedals... ridden by multiple downhill racers and slope style guys like Aaron Gwin, Amaury Pierron, Neko Mullay, Brett Rheeder and Martin Söderström just to make a few
Newbie question. Does anyone use those simple plastic pedal "basket" things instead? I used them as a kid. Seemed to work ok for me. I have never tried clipped pedals. Clipped seems more complicated and expensive but I guess they must perform better?
I have just broken my XTR pedals. I have some E-Mallet Crank Bros so I’ve put those on. Set them up for 15 degree release and installed the little raiser pad under the cleats. I’m finding them really difficult to get out of. Ive had 2 accidents in 3 days of riding, because I come to a stop and just can’t get my feet out. If I’m in a non dangerous situation, holding onto a tree for example, I can get out, but put me on a situation where I need to get out in a hurry, and I’ve got no chance. I love how the pedals feel while riding and they have a massive dedicated following, so they are obviously good pedals. Am I missing something? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
@askgmbntech Hi Doddy is there different gasses for an air shock that might reduced fade say nitrogen or helium, thanks have been enjoying and learning heaps from your vids keep it up
Hi can someone help me with a suspension problem please? I have a rockshox reba race 120mm travel and idk what hapend and the travel got so low like low then 100mm and idk what to do.To make it again to 120mm i got a fork pomp but its not helping Please someone can help me??
Riding off road with toe clips are a total drag. I once spend 20 minutes off a race trying to kick the foot of my strong leg in after a detour into a drench, but the long grass and other vegetation of the underforest kept hitting the toe clip and spinning the pedal around, whenever I let off the foot from tramping on the underside of the pedal. When I got home that day I removed the toe clips and straps, but kept the asymmetric pedals to keep better clearance when cornering. Rode "free float feet" until I got a pair of Look S-Track for my birthday - Best clipless pedals I have ever tried!.
Any tips/tricks on how to fill in the detects left from the cleat. Running times they have 4 really aggressive fangs that dig into the sole and then if you need to alter position of the cleat it can be difficult as the cleat want to go back to the original location. Wondering if maybe some kind of p Tex (snowboard filler) might help. Also a tip for time and most likely crank brothers as they are also a two bars system, the bars will leave marks in the sole (if not using the shims on crank brothers I imagine) so after riding for a while you can see where your foot is naturally resting and then line the cleat angle with the marks left by the bars. I found I was not letting my feet be duck footed enough (especially my left) but with pedals like time and crank it isn’t as instantly noticeable as shimano as they have more float but it’s not quiet as free floating as shimano, so while it still lets your foot go to into natural position it is still putting some pressure on your knee.
It went together easily in less than an hour. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
This is the first video about cleat positioning that mentions natural foot position, even though it comes very late in the video. Cleats aligned perfectly perpendicular to the shoe result in severe knee pain and stress on your ligaments for over 90 percent of people. And speaking about natural: when you stand on what is called your tippy toes, you actually do not stand on your toes like a ballet dancer, but on the ball of your foot which is the strongest part of your foot. It makes absolutely no sense to position the cleat in front of that point as it makes your stance less stable. Ever miss-stepped on a stair with your foot not enough forward? It's much harder to push yourself up because you don't have enough leverage. Positioning your cleat behind the ball of your foot may feel more comfortable at first, but it robs you of sufficient power.
Hey Doddy, I recently finished building my first bike from scratch used a NS Clash size Large frame, and decided to go 1x10 for it with a RD-M675 medium cage Shimano derailleur and a SunRace 11-40T cassette as expected I had to use a extension link for the derailleur to clear the cassette. But I have ran into a another problem that the largest sprocket is apparently to deep towards the wheel as the chain line is absolutely crap and the derailleur won't move enough towards the wheel to get the chain fully on the sprocket. Even though the cassette tightens nicely would I be able to sneak a ~2mm spacer before adding the cassette on the hub body? To address chain line and the sprocket distance. Or there normally wouldn't be enough space on the hub body to do that? any other ideas? #AskGMBNTech
Helps maintain the shoe to pedal control especially in very rough terrain when you bounce while you pedal. If you have ridden or raced road bikes with this system you also know the feeling of a clean circle you achieve with your pedal strokes. The fact that I skied downhill and was accustomed to stepping into a ski binding that connects me to the ski was a natural cross over skill. I also rode and raced road bike clipped in so it crossed over to mountain biking.
Honestly, I had never really thought about cleats and pedals at this level of detail. Even after a good decade of on/off use, I was ignorant on a lot of important information.
Doddy,Thank you so much for doing this video. I have been riding with SPD pedals for over 20 years and I have never seen a video with such detailed and excellent explanation regarding this equipment. I try to learn something new everyday, and I have found that I learn something new with every video that you guys make. Ya'll do excellent work and I have greatly enjoyed watching your videos. Chris
Thank you for this video! Very little information on spd cleat positioning on the internet.
Great tip on the natural position of the foot, I did not know that one. Great video
Either I'm totally dense or I just didnt get the way many other guys' explained this process. For some reason you hit the nail on the head with your version of setting up Mtn bike cleats. Thank you for taking the time to explain this so even I can understand it. Count on me as a subscriber
Absolutely great explanation. One of the few videos that actually explained the SH 56 M cleat multi release option for Shimano SPD. I been riding Shimano pedals for 30 years and I have worked in a ski / bike shop. The Shimano with SH 56 M is a great choice for first time recreational riding. Personally I run this cleat on my trail shoes for the extra release in rock gardens at my local trails. Yes occasionally I pre release but I am not racing or riding in a competitive situation so there’s not to lose. I do have flats for playing around and practicing but love the feeling of the Shimano SPD. I do run the SH 51 cleat on my road and gravel bikes because release is not an issue and they are included with the pedals.
As a previous viewer alluded, I have been riding with Shimano SPD pedals & SM-SH51 cleats for about 25 years and I have never seen a video with such detailed explanation. I always use elbow protectors under my jersey, even for city rides, just in case the shoes don't get released timely. I think it has happened twice or so during my cycling 'career'. Elbow protection made the difference between going home or to ER!
spds are good for beginners, use the multi release cleat and lower the spring tension all the way down, move up as you get comfortable
Such a great video on SPD pedal setup - thanks for such a comprehensive and clear explanation!
Thank you so much! I know this was posted a while ago but I just got into cycling and this was the only video that was educational and truly taught me why I would make a change and the impact it makes!
Not mentioned in the vid, Crank Brothers sell metal shields that go onto your shoe before the cleat. Gives the clip-in a nice audible metallic click when you're in. Some might not like it though because it might make your shoes feel "icey" on the pedals. To each his own.
Finally the world has come to some sense calling them clip in instead of clipless
Radex 141 They will always be clipless
Use a dictionary and look up clipless
Back in the day, I used to ride with pedals that had "toe-clips", and yes they were popular thing (not very safe, but it is what we had). Shimano came along and developed SPD "clipless pedals" in the early 1990's. The term clipless, came from the plastic toe clip that extended from the metal portion of the pedal being removed and your shoe was held to the pedal by the cleat. I understand your point of why are we calling them "clipless pedals", but that is a basic run down of where the term originated.
@@christopherhday yup.
um theyre actually clipless
This is by far the best video on the subject!!
Absolutely brilliant advice with all the little differences the adjustments make. Cross country vs down hill. Using your calf muscles vs being able to disengage..etc 🤙
this vid has honestly changed my clipped in setup
Good stuff! This has help me as a rookie on clips
I'm an xc rider and I put my cleats back now I learned not to do it but put them more forward definitely going to try that this thnx
I just learned a lot about clip pedals. I bought some Hellcat shoes and Crank Brothers Mallets. Rode them once on the trails, could not unclip, stopped riding for the season. That was a real down moment for me. I willl need to look into this again. Thanks
I have the same combo and the key to gaining confidence really is bike time. Start up agaisnt a wall or something similar and use it to balance as u practise feeling for the cleat and actually clipping in. Normally most people prefer to start by looking down to help find where the cleat is, but start trying to look ahead and just feel for the clip with ur shoe. Once you start riding take it slow. Put on some knee and elbow pads and head out to your lawn, or any surface that is soft. Start by riding off with only one foot clipped in and then after a bit try clipping the other one in. Keep riding in circles at a steady pace and when your ready to stop, you need to think about were your going to stop before you do it. That way if u cant unclip before the chosen point , you still have speed and can just keep riding. To unclip i find it easiest to point your toes down, whilst the cranks are at the 12pm position, and push down and outwards at the same time. This forces your heel out and should unclip u straight away. Once youve gotten the hang of clipping in and out, confidence will come naturally, as u are no longer worried about rolling over cause u cant unclip. Unclipping when u slide in a turn is a little diffrenet, and since you cant really practise it, you can only hope that the countless times youve practised agaisnt a wall will have commited the "unclip" movement to muscle memory. Thats why i prefer to always unclip with cranks at 12pm position , cause ur supposed to drop ur outside foot.
Very good. Best I have seen. Thank you.
As always Doddy, brilliant explanation of some very important advice.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love this. Thanks for sharing
TY TY TY TY I've had such a problem with corners I'm a newbie about a year.. I guess I'm a dumb ass. Never thought about getting off sadle in corners. Now since this video I'm flying around corners that would have sent me off trail... ty
Thamks
Excellent video - very helpful and thorough! Thanks mate!
Thank you, great video for me. Extremely informative , exactly what I required.
Just took my first ride on clipless pedals around my court. it took me about 5 min to get both feet clipped in. and then when I came back to my porch I dead sailored. didn't think about grabbing on to anything and my feet did come out... These are going to need some practice before they go on any trails.
When your never going to have clip in pedals but still watch this video because GMBN is to good not to watch :)
System most popular with people i know is TIME.
Wow! Great info! So much more than I expected! Thanks for providing it! :) :)
Great video Doddy!!!
That was a detailed video. Great job! 👍
Thanks for this video
Really helpful 👍
Perfect explanation good good and one more time good.
What is advantage of having a small or single front sprocket and multi-rear sprockets?
Don't forget HT Components pedals... ridden by multiple downhill racers and slope style guys like Aaron Gwin, Amaury Pierron, Neko Mullay, Brett Rheeder and Martin Söderström just to make a few
How do you know when purchasing shoes if they will be stiff enough to use with minimalist pedals?
Great content Doddy
great video thanks
Don't forget clip/flat pedals like Dual shot :D
#flatsalltheway 🤘
Excellent detail, much appreciated
13:10 why is there a pink star on the shoes??
Interesting
Straggler from a Star sticker pack. Children I assume.
Great vid.
Do u put some Grease, or Loctite into the Threads?
Newbie question. Does anyone use those simple plastic pedal "basket" things instead? I used them as a kid. Seemed to work ok for me. I have never tried clipped pedals. Clipped seems more complicated and expensive but I guess they must perform better?
great stuff ta
What was the red crankbrothers pedal in the video??
I have just broken my XTR pedals. I have some E-Mallet Crank Bros so I’ve put those on. Set them up for 15 degree release and installed the little raiser pad under the cleats. I’m finding them really difficult to get out of. Ive had 2 accidents in 3 days of riding, because I come to a stop and just can’t get my feet out. If I’m in a non dangerous situation, holding onto a tree for example, I can get out, but put me on a situation where I need to get out in a hurry, and I’ve got no chance. I love how the pedals feel while riding and they have a massive dedicated following, so they are obviously good pedals. Am I missing something? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Can you run a reduced offset fork on any bike? Or eill it mess with handling and cause the wheel to hit the down tube?
Does clips help you climb steep hills better?
06:51 with subtitles on..Hip hip music?
can I ride a DH clip pedal if im only on a trail as i do prefer the flat pedal but want to stay clipped in
@askgmbntech Hi Doddy is there different gasses for an air shock that might reduced fade say nitrogen or helium, thanks have been enjoying and learning heaps from your vids keep it up
Flats for life 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Awesome
I am still trying to figure out how it's a good idea to not be able to pull your foot straight up and out, no twisting. Isn't this just dangerous?
Clipless pedals are excellent. People that bash them probably don't ride much or haven't even tried them Lol!!
Hi can someone help me with a suspension problem please?
I have a rockshox reba race 120mm travel and idk what hapend and the travel got so low like low then 100mm and idk what to do.To make it again to 120mm i got a fork pomp but its not helping
Please someone can help me??
Should i pomp air on - button what is under the fork??
Idk can i do that?
Should watch this videos few years ago😂🤣
You didn't say how to set up toe straps
It's only clipless😂
😂😂😂😂 Who even uses them, it's 2019 - not 1980!
Easy. Take toe straps, find the nearest trash can and throw away. :D
Riding off road with toe clips are a total drag. I once spend 20 minutes off a race trying to kick the foot of my strong leg in after a detour into a drench, but the long grass and other vegetation of the underforest kept hitting the toe clip and spinning the pedal around, whenever I let off the foot from tramping on the underside of the pedal. When I got home that day I removed the toe clips and straps, but kept the asymmetric pedals to keep better clearance when cornering. Rode "free float feet" until I got a pair of Look S-Track for my birthday - Best clipless pedals I have ever tried!.
Any tips/tricks on how to fill in the detects left from the cleat. Running times they have 4 really aggressive fangs that dig into the sole and then if you need to alter position of the cleat it can be difficult as the cleat want to go back to the original location. Wondering if maybe some kind of p Tex (snowboard filler) might help. Also a tip for time and most likely crank brothers as they are also a two bars system, the bars will leave marks in the sole (if not using the shims on crank brothers I imagine) so after riding for a while you can see where your foot is naturally resting and then line the cleat angle with the marks left by the bars. I found I was not letting my feet be duck footed enough (especially my left) but with pedals like time and crank it isn’t as instantly noticeable as shimano as they have more float but it’s not quiet as free floating as shimano, so while it still lets your foot go to into natural position it is still putting some pressure on your knee.
It went together easily in less than an hour. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
This is the first video about cleat positioning that mentions natural foot position, even though it comes very late in the video. Cleats aligned perfectly perpendicular to the shoe result in severe knee pain and stress on your ligaments for over 90 percent of people. And speaking about natural: when you stand on what is called your tippy toes, you actually do not stand on your toes like a ballet dancer, but on the ball of your foot which is the strongest part of your foot. It makes absolutely no sense to position the cleat in front of that point as it makes your stance less stable. Ever miss-stepped on a stair with your foot not enough forward? It's much harder to push yourself up because you don't have enough leverage. Positioning your cleat behind the ball of your foot may feel more comfortable at first, but it robs you of sufficient power.
Impossible to get the cleat position 100% right😟😟
Hey Doddy, I recently finished building my first bike from scratch used a NS Clash size Large frame, and decided to go 1x10 for it with a RD-M675 medium cage Shimano derailleur and a SunRace 11-40T cassette as expected I had to use a extension link for the derailleur to clear the cassette. But I have ran into a another problem that the largest sprocket is apparently to deep towards the wheel as the chain line is absolutely crap and the derailleur won't move enough towards the wheel to get the chain fully on the sprocket. Even though the cassette tightens nicely would I be able to sneak a ~2mm spacer before adding the cassette on the hub body? To address chain line and the sprocket distance. Or there normally wouldn't be enough space on the hub body to do that? any other ideas?
#AskGMBNTech
Flats all day - Utah Rider
Clipless all the way in Moab
@@ml.9746 clips all the way as race Dh and enduro
Crank bros clipless are horrid, zero adjustment, and require ankle breaking force to unclip. So it’s shimano spd for me.
Help! my golden cleats (brass) say L and R but have no dots which one is which
L is left and R is right 😜
Switch them around if you want the 20° right on left and visa versa.
Am I the only person who watches these just to watch Blake fall over like a fainting goat. (The clipless video list)
*How To Set Up Flat Pedals* 1. Place pedal on bike, 2. Place shoe on foot, 3. Place person on bike
Clip out or un-clip? 😝
I'd say clip out 🤔
I say unclip lol
Go flat pedals
Why?
Because round pedals don’t work 🤔🤔🤔
@@nickwatkins5227 Haha
Hey Tomi couldn’t help myself 👍
Flat for ever!!!!
Didn't LOOK invent the clipless pedal first? Think shimano followed them.
flats are more easier...
Easier?
How are they easier other than setting the cleat position which is super easy?
@@th_js because they require you to do 1 thing, install them. I'm all for clips but flats are just easier period.
@@gavinsorenson461 Yeah I guess, but you still need to adjust the pins and get the shoe - pedal combo right
Why use clips on a mountain bike to begin with? Maybe its just me
Helps maintain the shoe to pedal control especially in very rough terrain when you bounce while you pedal. If you have ridden or raced road bikes with this system you also know the feeling of a clean circle you achieve with your pedal strokes. The fact that I skied downhill and was accustomed to stepping into a ski binding that connects me to the ski was a natural cross over skill. I also rode and raced road bike clipped in so it crossed over to mountain biking.