Differential Rebuild - Losi Tenacity TT Pro, DB Pro, and Lasernut
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Video on how to rebuild your diffs.
I used 7k weight in the front and center diffs, 5k in the rear. You should choose your oil based on your own preferences- there are many guides out there to explain.
The part number in the video is meant for the SCTE Ten trucks, but it had the correct seals and gears for the Tenacity. I used it because I already had it in my toolbox. The Tenacity specific diff kit is part number LOS232029, and you will need the seals and gasket that come with part number LOS232026.
Happy wrenching!
Really a great step by step video. Thank you. Can you do a video on the center diff?
Glad it was helpful! I’m actually waiting on a set of seals and HD gears to arrive from Tower Hobbies so I can rebuild the centers on both my cars. Hoping they get here tomorrow, will record the rebuild.
That is awesome. Thank you. Im hust starting in the hobby. @misterts7635
@@misterts7635 When you do, please show a step by step on how to get to it and how to put everything back. Thanks. Subscribing now.
Good job and thank you for making this video. One thing I was hoping to see was to visually show in detail was the refill level of oil. A camera birds eye view - looking through clear fluid - does not provide a adequate view of where the fluid level is prior to installing the cover.
Thanks for the feedback. You want it completely full- you only leave yourself enough room for the other gear. You can take the other gear and drop it in, then fill in any extra air space with fluid. Wipe any off the top of the gear, then install the cover. You want minimal air in there. Hope this clarifies. Happy wrenching!
@@misterts7635 Yes, thank you for the added info. Dropping in the gear and topping off seems like the way to go!
What brand oil do u use?
LOS232026 comes up as a differential housing, integrated insert. Is that the right part number for the seal kit?
It’s the part number for the diff housing and seals. I tried the part number for just the seals and gasket for the SCTE trucks, but the gasket is a different thickness and it makes the gears bind. I just buy the housing kit to make sure I get the right gasket, as it’s only a few bucks more anyway.
@@misterts7635 Great info. And smart. Ill order that one. I really appreciate your videos and fast response to my questions. I'm new to RCs. The lasernut might not have been the best choice for a beginner but im learning on the fly. @misterts7635
@@crashcootercoot no problem, glad to help! I came really close to grabbing a Lasernut while they were on sale but decided against it. I break these diffs periodically in the DB’s, I can only imagine how fast the Lasernut goes through them with those heavy wheels and tires. Other than that, I love this platform. Have you considered getting a 17mm hex conversion and running 1/8 buggy wheels? They’ll put a lot less strain on the diffs.
@misterts7635 Yes, I have been looking at 17mm hexes. The ones made by c2m. Is there a brand that you like best?
@@crashcootercoot I really liked the MIP kit but it got discontinued. I put the m2c kit on my other car and have not had any issues. Just make sure you use threadlock on the parts where they recommend it or they will spin their way loose.
Thanks for the video what's stock diff fluid in db
I couldn’t get a straight answer for that anywhere. The manual doesn’t say, there’s no part number listed for diff oil, and people on the forums don’t seem to know for sure. I figured that’s my cue to go ahead and pull them all to put my own oil in them.
An how is it working out for you an maybe u could do a running video 👍😎
@@daltonboucher8162 will do when it’s done. Still need to finish the front diff.
@@misterts7635 I actually contacted Horizon Hobby about this, and they say factory spec is 5k front and center and 3k in the rear (Tenacity DB Pro specifically)
@@dokasamurp9826 Good info, thanks!
hello. What is the size of the differential O-ring for TEAM LOSI TENACITY DB PRO RC car?
Sorry but I don’t know their dimensions. I get them in the kit with the diff housing gaskets, never had to buy them by themselves.
Thanks for the video!!
How do you know if planetary gear or other other gears are still reusable?
I just visually inspect them for damage. If the teeth don’t have any chips I reuse them. Usually you’ll know if they’re damaged before you even take them apart, as you’ll hear them clicking under heavy throttle or feel them grind when you spin them by hand.
What bearing should I use on the differential pinion gear on the back of the tenacity? Can you tell me the model number?
I read that here’s a version 1 and version 2 of that bearing- Losi updated it with a larger one. Which one you need depends on how old your car is. Your best bet would be to pull it apart and measure it, or just buy the updated diff housing with the bigger bearing.
Very helpful, I think one of my diff is grinding on my lasernut but how do u know which one needs to be fixed? It grinds mainly at full throttle and probably when driving on high friction surface.
When you hold the center diff from moving and then spin a front or rear wheel, does the opposite wheel move smoothly in the opposite direction?
How do you like the Lasernut so far (aside from grinding diffs!)? I’m really tempted to get one, but I worry about those big tires with 4s power. That’s a lot of stress on differentials, outdrives, and axles.
@@misterts7635 yes the front and rear wheels spin smoothly when the central diff is not moving. So this may be a central doff issue? I heard this is a common problem for Lasernut! But such an awesome looking and high performance car!
@@75Chopin definitely possible, especially if the truck does a lot of wheelies. Those big heavy front wheels bouncing under full throttle will really strain the center diff. If this becomes a recurring thing you could always switch to 1/8 buggy wheels to reduce the rotating mass. I’m running them on my DB pro with the Lasernut 1900kv motor and 4s. It’s awesome!
Do you think it would cause the ring and pinion gear to skip if I accidentally put those factory bearing shims back on the wrong side? I just rebuilt mine and put in the Tekno driveshafts and outdrives. When I went to run it I heard what sounded like a gear skipping under braking and reverse. Cant figure out the problem. The diff gears are fine.
Yeah, that could definitely cause an issue. If those shims were on the pinion side it would move the pinion away from the ring gear. I’m running mine on 4s now, so those tekno outdrives are in my near future! You might want to double check that your axles aren’t binding in the outdrives when the suspension is compressed. I seem to remember reading something about people having issues with the tekno outdrives, but it was a while back and the issue may have been resolved by now. Let me know what you find!
@@misterts7635 Thanks! Im pretty sure thats the problem. I realized I put them on the wrong side after watching you're vid. Mine is on 3s, I put the losi hardened outdrives in and they just ATE the stock rear driveshafts. I dont even bash very hard. Hope the teknos are better. Thanks!
@@misterts7635 oh ill let you know if I find any binding issue with the Teknos
@@misterts7635 That was it. Got the shims moved and it runs fine. I compressed the suspension and spun the wheels. Didnt seem like it had any binding. The Teknos seem to run smooth soo far.
@@DetoursRC glad it was an easy fix! Thanks for the info on the outdrives- those will definitely be my next upgrade.
Would 7k front center and 5k rear be a good starting point for 3s?
Yeah, but it’s really a matter of preference and your driving style. Should be a great place to start though. Good luck!
I tried to use the ten t heard in my tt pro diffs and they were too tight wouldn't roate free at all when I closed up diff.
Did you try them without the shims? Losi did make some revisions to the version 2 cars, but I think only the bearing sizes changed.
@@misterts7635 yes I did without shims. And I couldn't even tighten the case all the way without the gears grinding.. I've heard from several people those gears work. But not in my case.
@@andrewf6284 I would pull it back apart to make sure the flat spots on the pins are lined up with one another. Don’t know what else to tell you, they should fit!
How do you make sure the spur and pinion are properly engaged
Are you referring to the ring and pinion inside the diff housing or the motor pinion and center diff spur gear?
What diff oil weights are you using?
7k front and center, 5k rear.
You don't shim your plantery gears?
1 shim per gear has always worked well for me on these Losi diffs. Do you?
@@misterts7635 I do I just didn't see you install any on the vid unless I missed it
@@waikryder6633 I think you’re right, actually. I didn’t even notice at the time, but these gears came out without shims and I reassembled it the same way. My SCTE trucks have always had one shim behind each gear. Maybe Losi changed up their design? It’s not making any noise and holding up fine to 4s, so I’m not going to take it back apart to investigate. I’ll update next time I have it apart for maintenance!
bro, instead of going from its not so difficult to this is the dif, show us how to take it apart. i am struggling and I'm about to give up
ahh now i know why my car was clicking i let the car sit fully diss assembled for a week waiting on parts and i put the shims on the wrong way hope that fixes it, and thats a fat stack of shims
Those shims being on the wrong side would put a bunch of clearance between the ring gear and pinion gear- very likely where your clicking noise is coming from. Hopefully it hasn’t shredded the teeth!
What's the part number for the shim kit?