Oh hey I have a tip! I do tons of measurements like this so here’s what I do: When I have 2 holes and I need the spacing, I don’t try to measure from center to center, I measure from each far side of the circles, or the two close sides. So as far/close as you can measure, on the right/left quadrant snaps. Then, when you go to model, you can either take that distance and subtract/add 1 diameter, or just model your circles to align the same way you measured. It isn’t faster, but it is easier since you have a positive stop to touch before taking the measurement. Hopefully that makes sense, it’s basically the difference between: ( |-)---(-| ) and ()|--|() or |(-)--(-)|
if using calipers you measure one hole if they are the same then zero the calipers, then measure the holes from end to end, this will give you center to center exactly.
The bridging trick is not needed. Just sketch and revolve a 45 degree angle to gradually close the hole.. It's faster and simpler but just adds a little extra length so make sure you consider that in your dimensions.
The bridging trick is not needed here. It’s not printing the hole in thin air. It’s printing on top of the captured nut.
It probably wouldn't adhere properly to the nut and would move
Oh hey I have a tip! I do tons of measurements like this so here’s what I do:
When I have 2 holes and I need the spacing, I don’t try to measure from center to center, I measure from each far side of the circles, or the two close sides. So as far/close as you can measure, on the right/left quadrant snaps. Then, when you go to model, you can either take that distance and subtract/add 1 diameter, or just model your circles to align the same way you measured.
It isn’t faster, but it is easier since you have a positive stop to touch before taking the measurement.
Hopefully that makes sense, it’s basically the difference between:
( |-)---(-| ) and ()|--|() or |(-)--(-)|
absolutely. I usually measure the diameter with the calipers and then zero them. Then, measure edge to edge.
if using calipers you measure one hole if they are the same then zero the calipers, then measure the holes from end to end, this will give you center to center exactly.
damn that surface finish is great
You make this look so easy! I greatly appreciate that you are very concise and make directions clear. Ive learned a good amount from these shorts ❤
It's a drawer handle for a dresser; just 3dp the threads. Props if you create a model that matches the handle you're replacing.
What was the operation you used after extruding the bar and the cylinders where you said "chamfered at the base"? Looks quite useful
I need this
I'll definitely be using this trick!
OK, those 2 extrudes across the top of nut chamber, that's clever. Thanks.
The bridging trick is not needed. Just sketch and revolve a 45 degree angle to gradually close the hole.. It's faster and simpler but just adds a little extra length so make sure you consider that in your dimensions.
what is this software
I didn't quite understand how the bridging prevention works - is there a link you would recommend?
Orca slicer has this built in now so no need to cad it. Otherwise makers muse had a video on how to do counter bore holes.
That not how you use calipers to measure hole to hole. Flip them use the back side measure the Dia. Of hole one zero caliper
You really need to show the demonstration for more than 1 second. 3-5 seconds would do
How did you do that like truncated chamfer?
I'd like to know as well.
What is the name of the software that you used in the video?!!
Fusion 360
What program is that i wanna learn
Fusion 360