Developing HP5 - What I Use
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- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2017
- This is something people are constantly asking me about, so I wanted to go ahead and share all of the information with you guys. Here's everything from the developer I use to what temperature I develop at.
Massive Dev Chart: www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
Supplies Mentioned:
Ilford HP5:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
Ilfotec HC:
www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...
Photographer's Formulary TF-4:
www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...
Photo Flo:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
Paterson Tank:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc... 
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Thanks Matt for the great videos and being so transparent of your love of photography! As a small town Ohioan myself, your channel has been a real encouragement as I have ventured back to film as well as for motivation to just getting out and shooting what's around me.
Those Kodak x Girl decks are so sick!
I couldn't resist. Had to grab one for the collection. Such a rad collaboration.
Matt Day i dont blame you! I had to get one too!
Been waiting for this for so long thanks for the upload dude ! so inspiring
Thank you! Glad it's useful for ya!
Great video! Also loving the new setup
Great video man. I use the Massive Dev Chart Timer app which will calculate everything for you once you put in the type of film, ISO, water temp, and chemicals used. Then the app will run a clock for each step so you can use it as a timer as well.
It's a killer resource!
This is great! Got a couple B&H gift cards for Christmas and it's time I give developing my own film a shot. This video is really helpful. There's still a lot of info I need though. But it's a start. Thanks Matt!
Most needed information; thanks for sharing your knowledge! The links on the description lead to a much better deal from BH than I was getting trying to buy the chemicals Illford recommended for HP5 on their website buying through Amazon or eBay; shipping and handling prices were so ridiculous I ended up going for 10 rolls of XP2 Super instead of the HP5 I really wanted to try out. There seems to be many ways and sets of chems to process B&W it can get a little confusing and intimidating compared to C-41 where one gets everything needed in one box; added an icon for this video for next time around. Thanks again!
great info, Matt. Thanks !
He's back!
Hey! This was super helpful. Just developed my first roll. Turned out great. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the list, Matt! I remembered your earlier video mentioning the Photographers Formulary fixer not needing a stop bath chemical but I wasn't sure if TF-4 was what you were using. Can't wait to get started on doing my own devs at home!
When I first got into film my go to recipe was HP5+ at box speed with Kodak D-76 1:1. I liked the results, but as I progressed I started to tend towards finer grain and more contrast. As a result, my go to has now changed to Delta 100 or 400 with Kodak T-Max 1:4, and whenever I shoot HP5, I'm dissatisfied with the results I get. And to me, this is what makes film so cool. Every part in the process is as much a technical decision as an artistic one, and one can change the recipe to better fit the mood of a current project.
Thanks Matt! Was just about to ask for a video about this.
Roy Gallegos Awesome! Glad it’s useful for you!
Love the board! I got the Super 8 Mccrank board.
Great video, truly amazing
Thank you!
I've processed film for years and this was an excellent video! Thanks!
Thank you! I'm happy to hear that!
I go for less grain though. I shoot FP4 and process in Perceptol. Love the contrast and grain structure!
I have processed B&W film for 60 years, using most of the various types of developers available, except pyro. Since many "newbies" closely rely on Matt;s every word for guidance, I wish he would back off from his casual and often repeated proposals for push processing film 2 or more stops as routine usage. The film makers give their film a "box speed" for a reason - that is quality standard and maximum flexibility. When you push a film one stop, you are roughly loosing one stop off that film's dynamic range, so if your film would normally capture a subject light range of 9 stops from black to white, a two stop push is going to cut that capacity down to about 7 stops. Some folks have the experience and control over their exposure and development process to manage such limitations successfully; most do not.
Thank your very much Matt! I asked you about it the other day on instagram but you didn't answer and i didn't want to annoy you. Thanks so much for sharing your technique! :D
Nice overview!
Amazing! Thanks!
I was literally just searching for this hours before you put this up.
Hopefully I wasn't too late! Haha.
I just recently bought a Mamiya 645 with the 80 1.9 and have been shooting a bunch of HP5 and the closest place to me takes about a week to get B&W back to me. I'm thinking that getting what I need and doing it myself will be better and also more satisfying.
I used HP5 in high school (soooooo long ago) and always found the results way too contrasty. I switched to D76 and was happier with the results, but in college I discovered Acufine. I mostly shot TX at 400 and used it diluted as a one-shot developer at 68F, I think it was 1:3 for about 9 minutes, but don't see the formula listed on the MDC and unfortunately don't have notes from what I was doing at that time any longer. It gave nice grain and contrast. Some day I may get back to the dark room and figure out what the magic was.
Using stop bath gives a better development time consistency, specially for short dev times.
Making stop bath is very easy you take just regular white alcohol vinegar from the supermarket and dilute it down to 2-3% acetic acid (stock vinegar has around 8% acid).
Awesome video Matt. Interestingly I've never used stop bath, just water no matter what the developer!
some fixers, such as photographer's formulary TF-4, will also advertise its ability to act as a stop bath, so there's even less risk if those are used.
TF4 is so awesome, for negatives and prints. It cuts down wash time on prints by 50%, 30 second fixing for RC instead of 5 mins and the bottle in comes in can be re-used for other photo chems (after washing of course).
Seriously! I was so excited years ago when I first started using it. Often times, people are so focused on specific developers that the fixer can be overlooked. TF-4 is an unsung hero. Haha.
great video. do you have any videos on how to test if a developer has gone bad? I have kodak xtol and it should still be good but wanted to test it and there is nothing like someone actually showing the process and explaining the method behind it. Thanks! I always watch your film developing video as a refresher every-time I develop film.
Nice video, as always Matt. Just curious. Do you remember why you preferred HC over DD-X for pushing HP5?
Hey Matt, great video! Roughly what developing times/dilution do you use for HP5 pushed to 6400? A lot of people don't push that high so there's not as much info for that
Water as stop bath also works with kodak hc 10, and dont be afraid to use tap water, if you can drink it you can likely use it. I do take the water from the fridge that goes thru a filter
It works with all normal film stocks, regardless what developer/fixer is used. I only stop fiber paper, PE paper and film I stop with tap water and good agitation
Glad you are feeling better can I use this recipe with TMax or T x film ??
Hi Matt. Another excellent video. I have 2 beginner questions! 1. What is difference between ilford hc 1+31 and 1+15? And, 2. If you push 400 film to, say, 1600 I assume you develope as if it was 1600 film? Many thanks, Chris
Distilled water is best for developer and final rinse with a wetting agent but I don't think it matters for anything between. I've always used it that way but I also used D-76 1:1 one shot and stop bath and Kodak fixers. I used to make my own stop bath from glacial acetic acid, it's been that long! -- way before digital. Graded double weight fiber papers for enlarger printing--those were the days ;)
Hey Matt! Thanks for everything! Just a question for your next Q&A-video: How do you clean your film before you scan it? Somehow I always find some dust on them even I put a lot of effort in cleaning them! Greetings from Italy!
I often used air dusters! Just cans of compressed air. You can also use anti-static brushes and things like that, but the compressed air is pretty effective, despite being a little pricey for what it is.
I started shooting Tri-X and developing with HC-110 because of your old video. I'd love to give the HP5 + Ilfotec HC combo a try. Also, a little while ago I sent you an email about the modern box camera I'm developing with Hamm Camera Company. Would it be alright for me to send you an update on the project?
I would like to start developing my own film (specifically HP5). What are your thoughts on Ilfotec DDX? What kind of look did it produce when you used it?
Thank you Matt Day.
Hi Matt, do you use the developer as a one shot and make fresh for each use? Cheers, Jon
Matt, did you give usyour view on stand development already? Been out of circulation awhile...
Great info, Matt! Question...? Do you store your unexposed film in the refrigerator and if so, would you think maybe a dedicated device like a wine cooler would work? My wife isn't too keen with me storing my film in the refrigerator.
I use a separate fridge, but anything cool, dark and dry humidity should be fine
Hey Matt, thanks for the resources you post for others to follow. I'm curious about the TF-4 formulary, can you use it and just put it back in the jug for re-use? I saw you did that in your 30 minute film dev video. I've developed 4 rolls and I just got rid of it but if I can just save it...
For a limited time. PF is uncommonly vague about the life of the used working solution, so assume that it is very short, i.e., a day or two. TF-4 has some properties which make it less useful for film development, although it works well for such. The stock solution is sensitive to chemical deterioration, so has shelf life unopened of 12 months. Once opened the stock solution should be repackaged in smaller container(s) to avoid oxygen (air). Stock should be diluted to working solution with distilled waster. While PF says you don't have to use stop bath, what they really mean is do not use an acid stop bath because it will chemically damage TF-4, which is an alkaline solution. TF-4 has two characteristics which make it better to use than acid fixers (most others): (1) it washes out of prints, mainly fiber-based paper, more quickly than regular acid fixer, and (2) it does not harm film negatives processed in a staining developer, which few folks use. Otherwise, it offers nothing special. It's storage and use limitations make it uneconomical for the low volume print output of a most home users.
Forget the chemicals, Where did you get that shirt? :) The Super Nintendo logo on the sleeves is nice!! and the controller logo too. (BTW, awesome video!)
Top bloke
Great video again Matt, thanks! Few questions: can you use developer and fixer multiple times, once mixed up? And ho long can you keep using it then? My wife always sends me to the cold garage when I want to develop some film, she’s afraid the chemicals might screw up our kitchen 😒 Where do you do your developing? And what do you do with the chemicals once you’ve used them?
Just some of the developing questions that have been haunting me for years 😉
Dear Jan, I am not Matt but I have some experience with developing film at home as well. Once mixed up, you should use your developer only once. Fixer can be used multiple times, it depends on how long it has been mixed up and how many times it was used. and of course it depends on the fixer. there is a test to see whether or not the fixer is still doing its job: hold a little piece of undeveloped film that you don't use (e.g. the piece you cut off before putting it in the dev tank). if it clears up in under three minutes, the fixer is fine. that is the method I use, but i give no guarantee that it is true for every fixer.
About home-development: the modern chemicals are not as hazardous as they were in the old times, but make sure to clean the surfaces after development - to avoid food contamination. But it does not harm chrome or something like that.
The chemicals should be deported in a special facility that takes care of the chemicals. In the European city I live, there is one of them so it is no big fuss for me to go there once in a while. I have 5-liter tanks where I put the used chemicals so that I don't have to go after every development session.
I hope that these answers are helpful to you and I hope that you have fun developing!
Thanks Mr. Not Matt 😉 Useful info, I’ll use your test for my fixer. And I’ll try to convince my wife to let me back into the kitchen...
You have no problem to do it in kitchen. I usually do all mixing and developing on big trash plastic bag. So if something spills, will be on plastic.
Good thing about fixers and fixing, it can be redone, unlike developer. So if you fixing and at the end your negative is not fixed correctly (usually magenta cast and negative fog), you can redo it again.
I usually inspect after fixing is it properly fixed, if not dump it again to tank, and do more fixing.
And even more, your negative is dried and you see it is still not fixed properly, no problem put it in tank, do fixing, water rinse, dry and your done.
Moral note, don't worry too much about fixing, worry more about developer and time, this cannot be redone.
well done, I'll try ilfotec. I got a bottle of rodinal then I'll but it.
Oh nice! You got a Girl+Kodak deck :D
I was going to get the Super 8 one but it's sold out everywhere in the UK.
I couldn't resist!
Nice update! Aren’t HC-110 and Ilfotec HC basically the same? I wonder why the suggested dev times for HP5 are different.
DarkRami As far as I can see dev times are 5 mins (400) and 11 (1600) for HC-110 and 6.5 (400) and 14 (1600) for Ilfotec HC. Everything at 20C/68F.
Do you apply noise removal in post? Pushing HP5 to 1600 for me results in much more noise than I see in your images. I am just learning to develop, though. Thank you for this channel, by the way. Probably my favorite channel about film photography.
I mean grain - heh!
Matt, can you describe your process for disposal of the chemicals? Do take it to a disposal facility.
Developer can be dilluted and dumped in the toilet. Fixer contains the excess silver from the film and should be disposed specially
Hi Matt, slightly off topic question, Is that Sailor Jerry on the wall ?
Wow 6400 hp5, would love to see your results
If your pushing Hp5+ them you might want to use Ilford Microphen. It's Ilford's push developer.
I've had some friends tell me about that one. I've thought about it, might have to make a video trying it out and sharing what I find.
Do you develop color film? If so could you make a video on that?
this question is probably burried somewhere in this comment section, but what do you think about the difference between ilfotec HC and HC110? Ilfotec is almost triple the price than HC110 but I really wanted to try it but I am not sure if its worth it or will show any noticable difference. Cool video as always, thanks :)
I am pretty sure they are the same formula but with different names, I read that in a forum once
Is it safe to develop film in your home? I.e chemical exposure
I was looking at Adox XT-3 for starting developing HP5 at home (before I only did Foma 200 and 400 in Rodinal). How about the shelf life for Ilfotec HC?
Great video!
Shelf life for Ilfotec HC has never been an issue for me, but the price of it in the US these days has skyrocketed! I just finished a bottle a couple of days ago and had to order Kodak HC-110 instead. First time using anything other than Ilfotec HC in many years.
@@mattdayphoto here in EU this Kodak developer is gone in all stores. Thanks for the answer!
Developing time and temperature make only sense for a given agitation type and frequency.
Agitation changes a lot development time
distilled water for cleanliness doesn't matter as you wash the films with tap water.
Using a water microfilter (like Paterson make one) directly at point of use is very important to avoid film scratches coming from tiny no visible sand grains in the water. A Normal domestic water filter isn't sufficient. After running a development you can find them when cleaning the inside of the filter.
I was very into fx39 for the retro look, now I experiment with id-11. I had the problem of a lot of used developer solution which I had to bring to a special waste facility. How do you manage that?
Now with id-11 i can use the stock solution for multiple films which gives you much less liquid waste per roll.
When disposing of Ilfotec HC, I've always just poured it directly down the drain. It's never caused any issues for me.
Do you mess around with C41 developing?
Forget Film! What chemicals where you using for your hair?
concentrate should be mixed to 3 parts water before mixing working developer to 1+31 or 1+47.
I was thinking the same thing...
The TF4 makes 4 liters, but you have it contained in a 1 gallon jug, which holds less than 4 liters. How does it fit?
What type and name of your beakers that your using?
Hey Matt, do you dilute your concentrate of Ilfotec HC to make a stock solution first? I've used Ilfotec HC before and it was very confusing at first because according to the instructions you have to dilute this "syrup" concentrate in 3 parts water and after that you can use this stock solution in either 1+31 or 1+47 or whatever dilution you want to use.
Yes you should dilute concentrate to 3 parts water to make stock solution before mixing working developer to either 1+31 or 1+47.
So I wonder how important it is to use distilled water for the stop? I just use tap and it seems to be fine, but then again I have never used distilled... I always develop with caffenol
Unless your tap water has a lot of grit and dirt in it, it makes no difference at all. Even so, if you have dirty tap water, it would better to install a filter system instead of using distilled water, as you still have to wash in the end. Note that water doesn't stop development. It may wash a little unused developer out of the emulsion, but what is left will continue to process your film. (Using cycles of developer followed by water bath, and over again, is an old technique to control contrast.) Most fixers are acidic, so they perform the "stop" function. An acid stop bath is important if you have short development times, as the extra development in a water bath can upset your overall development plan. Otherwise, it just serves to protect and extend the life of the fixer.
You need to bring this hair back!
Can you still use Illford developer if your developing Kodaks Tri-x or Tmax, or do you need Kodaks chemistry?
You can use any developer. Search the Massive Development Chart for film/developer combos and it will give you development times, temperatures, etc.
What's the best way to throw away the used chemicals?
Filling a jerry can or a water canister, taking it to a recycling center where you would dispose paint and stuff too.
In normal B&W film processing, most of the chemicals used in their small concentrations can go down the drain, whether water treatment plant or septic system. The potential exception is used fixer, which has a fairly heavy concentration of silver, not so great at the treatment plant. So few people process their own film, that IMO putting used fixer down the drain, if not politically correct, has no significant, adverse effect. Ask the opinion of your water dept for a solution to disposal.
Chuck it in the ocean. That’s what all of Asia does anyway!
@@nickfanzo lmfao
Well I'd say cheers.
I'm going to get hate for this but I've used cheap rinse aid instead of photoflo for years and not noticed any bad effects.
I think the reason why you don`t have to (or maybe even shouldn`t...not sure there) use stop bath and TF4 is, that stop baths are acids and TF4 is alcaline, so they probably would have a bad reaction if mixed together...Please correct me anyone if you know more about it. Thanks.
You are on track. Depending on the type of tank, a significant amount of acid stop bath carries over. If into an alkaline fixer, that can upset the chemistry and process of the fixer to some extent. It's not going to damage your film, but it will much shorten the useful life of the fixer with repetition.
when pushing film ( 35mm Tri-X 400 ) what would you guys recommend for developer/ stop/ fix times . Interested in hearing peoples responses for all three. feel free to drop Flickr links would love to see all but especially say 1600 and up .
With HC-110 dilution B, my developing time for 1600 is 16 minutes, 2 mins stop in Kodak indicator stop bath, and around 2.5 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fixer.
For push I use a different developer than at box speed. Atomal 49 is great. I just use the times from the massive Dev chart.
Kodak indicator stop bath is going to do its job with 30 - 60 seconds of continuous agitation. More time won't hurt, bit it won't help either. Any rapid fixer should be used with normal agitation for at least 4 minutes. 2.5 minutes is cutting it pretty thin with no necessity. Isn't this info in the instructions packed with the chemicals, or has reading the manufacturer's instructions for use become unfashionable?
ILFOTEC HC is $74 at B&H ...where do you buy it Matt?
ey! do you still use this method for hp5?
hey matt what's your opinion on the wackest film photography facebook group in the 10-15,000 member category
Hi, can you put all your references in the description ? :)
And what about the time of the fixer ?
Yes! I don't know why I didn't think of that. Haha.
I fix for 4 to 5 minutes, depending on how fresh the fixer is.
There is an old rule but its great: take an excess piece of film (E.g. the leader) and put some drops of fixer on it. Measure the time it takes until the film becomes clear/transparent.
Take that time times two as the fixing time.
Also, If the fixing takes longer than that, the fixer is should be exchanged for a fresh bottle.
Why would you use fotoflo if you use destilled water?
Photoflo breaks the surface tension of the water so it does not form spots on the film as it drys. Distilled water should be used to prevent chemicals which are dissolved in your tap water from forming a visible deposit on your film when it drys. Two different problems. Some people do not have hard water and can skip the distilled water.
I'm the future. Thanks.
Have you ever tried a monobath? Even more simple lol :]
Stormblessed I actually have a video using New55 R3 Monobath on this channel. It was a couple years ago, but I didn’t have great results.
How much does the amount of developer and water change if I'm using a tank that holds two reels?
Cristobal Moreno You should be splitting this amount in half. On the bottom of Paterson tanks, they usually have the total amount needed on the bottom of the tank.
Matt Day thanks for the quick reply! I’m gonna start developing more at home, since my winter break starts this Friday. I can always develop at my high school but I wanna be able to do it at my home too
How dense are your negatives at 6400?
They're certainly not thin. I'm gonna work on a video sharing the results and shooting soon!
Oh Matt - please bring this hair back 👌🏻 haha
What's your opinion on Rodinal?
I've personally never used it but I know a TON of people love it, so it can't be bad. Haha.
Matt Day I definitely love it. It's been my go to since Ted Forbes talked about a while back. With stand developing, I think it would last forever. I love how gritty it looks with Tri-X. And it works wonderfully with my recent addition, Ilford Pan-F+; right amount of contrast with minimal grain.
I love Rodinal with classic/old films and slow films, it has that special contrast
I know! It makes the photos look super sharp!
Never seen any difference between tap water and distilled water
Very much depends on where you live. I.e. if you live in an area with very hard water, you're more likely to run the risk of mineral deposits and metal content effecting the process. If you live in the UK, information on local water content is usually easy to find online- not sure on other countries.
Why all this pushing all the time?
you mention 1600 asa for this film, is this the 'box' asa ? because just saying "HP-5" doesn't tell us what the iso /ASA is!!, ilford are a bit stupid in this regard, as you NEED to know the ASA, but the buggers don't tell it to you straight, unlike KODAK, who at least give it in the film name, kudos to them for that one!!