That socket tip is the defination of a pro tip! I've built so many pedals and I've never even thought about doing that. So clever! Great build and video, as always!
For bridging the lugs of the footswitch i usually take an already cut off leg of a diode (for example 1N5817). They are thicker than the legs of the resistors and are precisely to bend. I keep them for this in a small plastic bag, just like the rest of shortened cables. Thank you for the tip to push out the unused pins to socket the diodes btw.! Didn't think about it 💡
The sticky tack is a good idea. I usually solder one leg of the socket then turn it over and while heating that first pad I line up the socket with my other hand. After the solder cools and the socket is aligned I solder the rest of the pads then reflow that first pad to make sure fiddling with it didn't make a cold joint.
If you follow the diagram, the wires are meant to be soldered on the potentiometer side. I see no benefit in stressing the PCB joint more than necessary, but apparently people that make S-shapes do walk among us 😊
@8:51 "we don't care about " the orientation of the diodes: I just did a kit that had six diodes in a soft clipping format (a Big Muff Pi Opamp clone) and those diodes were ALL oriented the same direction on the PCB, and the traces on the boards made it three one way and three the other. So having these diodes by "opposite" on the board, you could have been wiring them in parallel both the same way. Good thing they were socketed.
Cool tip on the socketing. I avoid socketing at all cost just because my own method was so annoying. I bet I’ll be doing a lot more of it now that I Have your method.😎
Do you have the part number handy for the power jack you used? I like the idea of being able to remove the power jack withe out desoldering it if the pedal needs to come apart.
Thanks for this tutorial. I just finished one. On the LED part, Anode is positive. Cathode is negative. On the board I see that squares are Positive. Except for this LED. Did they make a mistake on the square but labeled it correctly on this printed circuit board? I reversed it and works flawlessly. Directions were great! I can only paint by numbers and am learning a lot on the way!
It looks like you totally took care of it but you should probably mention to people that they need to go over all solder points w/iso and a soft toothbrush. I suppose it's possible modern circuit boards can handle the shmutz but I wouldn't take the chance...
At 19:30 after you solder 2 pins of led diode, you put solder on your soldering tip before you store it away. Why are you putting solder on your tip after you're done soldering?
On my second try of building this Rat pedal and have soldered everything perfectly, I get a slight hum when turned up all the way, otherwise a super clear bypass so there is no effect. With nowhere to get troubleshooting advice Im forced to come back here with my now $112 investment of a light up paper weight. Anybody have any clues ?????
For sure, I used a cutoff from a resistor I believe, but any wire would be fine, shielded or not. Technically even solder would work, although it would break very easy and be hard to solder haha.
@@plantesounds8836 the kit didn’t include bus wire, I think I was meant to just use some of the black shielded stranded wire. I believe there was an extra piece.
Does the stomp switch have a polarity or orientation?? I know the lugs be horizontal, but the switch could be in 2 different orientations with the lugs like that.
That socket tip is the defination of a pro tip! I've built so many pedals and I've never even thought about doing that. So clever! Great build and video, as always!
26:45 can't stop laughing at this momment.
and thank you for telling us a really good and very neat way!
Muroidea is a species of rodent that includes mice, rats, voles, hamsters, lemmings, gerbils, etc.
The Rat doesn't get enough respect IMO. Everybody should own one.
I have three; is that okay?
Are you kidding? Everyone knows about the Rat!!! And most every company makes its own version.
For bridging the lugs of the footswitch i usually take an already cut off leg of a diode (for example 1N5817). They are thicker than the legs of the resistors and are precisely to bend. I keep them for this in a small plastic bag, just like the rest of shortened cables. Thank you for the tip to push out the unused pins to socket the diodes btw.! Didn't think about it 💡
Sounds so much better than i remember my origional did
Surprising thing,,, a blues driver into a Proco Rat is instant Texas ,SRV, blues tone!! Perfect candidate for a dual drive pedal!
The sticky tack is a good idea. I usually solder one leg of the socket then turn it over and while heating that first pad I line up the socket with my other hand. After the solder cools and the socket is aligned I solder the rest of the pads then reflow that first pad to make sure fiddling with it didn't make a cold joint.
Nice build! The rat is such a great sounding pedal.
If you follow the diagram, the wires are meant to be soldered on the potentiometer side. I see no benefit in stressing the PCB joint more than necessary, but apparently people that make S-shapes do walk among us 😊
you can solder and rip, almost at same time. nice video, well done. Like the Rush too...
Hey Joe, thank you for this video! I believe the schema is flipped compared to the original rat, the left knob is volume, and the right is distortion.
I would have liked to have two nuts for each jack and colour coded cables.
@8:51 "we don't care about " the orientation of the diodes: I just did a kit that had six diodes in a soft clipping format (a Big Muff Pi Opamp clone) and those diodes were ALL oriented the same direction on the PCB, and the traces on the boards made it three one way and three the other. So having these diodes by "opposite" on the board, you could have been wiring them in parallel both the same way. Good thing they were socketed.
You're right, I should have been more clear. The orientation doesn't matter with respect to the silkscreen for anti-parallel clipping diodes.
Cool tip on the socketing. I avoid socketing at all cost just because my own method was so annoying. I bet I’ll be doing a lot more of it now that I
Have your method.😎
Heck yeah, nice clean build. I've built a few of the pedal pcb circuits, great stuff!
Messure every component with DMM before installing in pcb
Дякую за цікаве відео! Чудова робота 👍🙂
Do you have the part number handy for the power jack you used? I like the idea of being able to remove the power jack withe out desoldering it if the pedal needs to come apart.
I believe these are the jacks I ordered: lovemyswitches.com/cliff-switched-2-1mm-dc-power-jack-outtie/
@@graybenchelec Thank You!!!!
Thanks for this tutorial. I just finished one. On the LED part, Anode is positive. Cathode is negative. On the board I see that squares are Positive. Except for this LED. Did they make a mistake on the square but labeled it correctly on this printed circuit board? I reversed it and works flawlessly. Directions were great! I can only paint by numbers and am learning a lot on the way!
It looks like you totally took care of it but you should probably mention to people that they need to go over all solder points w/iso and a soft toothbrush. I suppose it's possible modern circuit boards can handle the shmutz but I wouldn't take the chance...
I should put something in there yes. The solder I use is "no-clean" solder which does not require removing the flux, but it's a good tip in general.
Resistors Start 5:12
At 19:30 after you solder 2 pins of led diode, you put solder on your soldering tip before you store it away. Why are you putting solder on your tip after you're done soldering?
That's called "tinning" the solder tip. It prolongs the life of the tip, or so I was taught.
@@graybenchelec Reduces oxidisation of the tip of the iron is what I was told. Not that I remember to do it.
On my second try of building this Rat pedal and have soldered everything perfectly, I get a slight hum when turned up all the way, otherwise a super clear bypass so there is no effect. With nowhere to get troubleshooting advice Im forced to come back here with my now $112 investment of a light up paper weight. Anybody have any clues ?????
double check your connections between the input/output jacks and the PCB
i built it and it sounds great but my volume is way decreased. can someone please tell me what i didi wrong?
I recommend posting pics to /r/diypedals, lots of helpful and knowledgeable people there.
Is there a way to do this without soldering the pots directly to the pcb?
You can solder wire to the lugs and then solder the wire to the PCB
On that wire you mistook for solder, could one use a regular piece of wire with the shielding still on the the section not being soldered?
The “bus wire” was what I was referring to. Is “bus wire” functionality different from the wire included in the kit?
For sure, I used a cutoff from a resistor I believe, but any wire would be fine, shielded or not. Technically even solder would work, although it would break very easy and be hard to solder haha.
@@plantesounds8836 the kit didn’t include bus wire, I think I was meant to just use some of the black shielded stranded wire. I believe there was an extra piece.
@@graybenchelec awesome! Thank you so much for the reply. Thanks for the great video too. I’m using it as a guide for my first build.
Does the stomp switch have a polarity or orientation?? I know the lugs be horizontal, but the switch could be in 2 different orientations with the lugs like that.
Nope, it's the same either way, as long as the lugs are horizontal.
@graybenchelec thanks for replying. everything looks good, not sure why it ain't workin
I was pretty sure it wasn't the switch. I was looking forward to some nuno-ish sounds...dang it, lol
@@joem6859 I'd take some pics of the PCB front and back, and post to either reddit.com/r/diypedals or DIYSB. Good luck!
@5:35 you introduce a PCB vice / holder . Any chance of a link to that product ? Thx !
Very cool channel !
Im a new Subscriber ...
I think it's just this: a.co/d/gTlJTOa
Joe,
Any Malekko pedals interest you?
The B:Assmaster is an interesting pedal.
I'll check them out!
What are you using there to clean the PCB?
Just Isopropyl Alcohol.
Any chance you could fix my old DD2 digital delay?
Apologies for not responding sooner, I'm not taking any outside work right now, sorry!
Thanks for responding, If you ever want to do a video of the Boss DD2 repair just let me know.@@graybenchelec