Instead of making the bent wire tool. You can use a small allen wrench, that fits, and gets held in place under spring tension. A roll pin starter punch & roll pin punch, made for the AR Lower, is a great tool set to get too.
I'd been futzing around with this all afternoon trying to figure out how to grow a third hand. I love the pin-holding punch idea. Simple and effective. I found a piece of 3/16" HRS in my scrap bin and drilled it in my lathe; works PERFECTLY. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
I machined it from a solid block in a multi part RUclips series a while back. They changed their gun content policy and I had to take it down. Too bad. the machining setups and sequence was very educational.
First several I did with just a correctly sized roll pin punch. Even after reading the dire warnings about slipping off the pin and making a big ugly scratch in the side of the receiver. All of them came out unblemished. Your shop made tool is perfect and a fraction of the cost of the purpose built set of tools from Wheeler. As long as you have a lathe to drill the hole... Great tip on the welding rod bent retaining/ lineup tool. As always well done Joe! Thank you.
I like this idea using a long punch to reach it and the hole in the end is nice. One thing you might do is add some heat shrink to the rod to prevent some nicks in case of a slip.
OMG! Thank you! I am attempting my first ever build. and Boy, You have made a difficult operation super-simple. Getting the right tips from guys that really know what they are doing makes all the difference in the world. I sure wish I had seen this before I tried it the first time, LOL!
Real Avid makes a two punch kit made specifically for this job, which I like, and its only 13 bucks or so. The punches have notched out sides to fit the receiver better, and the starter punch is magnetic to easily hold the roll pin.
I'm a little proud of myself, I did the same thing when I built my first lower. I used an allen key instead of a bending a welding rod. When I was an auto mechanic I learned to start bigger roll pins by holding them in a deep socket and tapping them in with an extension. Subaru half shafts are held in with roll pins and can be easily reinstalled with that trick. I didn't invent that though, I was shown it when I was an apprentice.
MASON CROSS I would have moved across the country to be his apprentice, I learn something with every one of his videos. And he's doing something right, look at his shop. Keep it up Joe. Please. You have a lot to offer and the vast majority of us watching want to learn from you.
A piece of toothpick makes a pretty good slave pin as well (but I actually like the weld rod better). I like that 1/4” homemade punch better than the slab sided punches that are made for this. I’ve actually bent a couple of them and the slab side still touches the receiver - so you still need tape. Yours is the best method I’ve seen yet. Now I want to get another lower just so I can try it out 😊.
Good video. I was looking for slightly more instant gratification than a trip to the welding shop. So I just used a 2mm Allen wrench to hold everything together while I drove the pin in. Worked great.
Dude, simple, fast, and effective AND hardly any additional cost for job-specific tools!!! Thanks!!! I struggled mightily getting that bolt catch in-even had to have my son help me! Needed four hands to complete the job. It's one of those,"why didn't I think of that?!?!?" situations. Again, thanks for posting this vid!
Excellent & informative video Joe, thank you. If you don't have access to 093 or 3/32" filler rod, a (2D zinc coated?) finishing nail with the point ground off & bent will do the trick too.
Just found this and THANK. YOU. Where on this forsaken green earth was THIS tidbit when I built one AR and upgraded, and worked on my other? THIS is an epically simple solution to end a lot of non-child approved verbiage. Stellar, man. Thank you!!
I just trashed my pin trying to install. And its 10:34 at night. Now I have to go to work tonight and open up to get a new one! Thanks this helps except I dont have the tools to do it like you have. My next purchase is a pin starter and punch set.
Joe how did you know I was building another AR and was looking for a better way to install this roll pin? Your psychic! The slave pin is a great idea. This was a great short project for me this afternoon. I'm just learning how to make chips and break tools on a lathe and a mill. Please keep the excellent videos coming. Thanks!
You can buy a roll pin install punch in several sizes that does the same thing. Great to have in your repair kit. Seat it with a roll pin driving punch that has a nipple the size of the hole in the roll pin, in several sizes. Common in armorer kits.
Joe, one other thing that I do is install a piece of shrink wrap over the ¼" drive rod. This will eliminate any scuff marks on the side of the receiver.
Thank you, followed your instructions and used a small allen wrench as a slave pin, one thing i did differently was tap the roll pin in slightly just to get it started because i didnt have a vice, this was my first build and it turned out great
@@joepie221 you might want to consider purchasing a 3D printer if you don't have one already. You can print so many crafty things for the house and shop and more. I have printed cabinets, tables, tools, spatulas, tiles for the kitchen floor, pegboard, hangers, picture frames, soap holder, salt and pepper shaker and the list go on for days. What might interest you some more is related to firearms. I have printed hundreds of firearm parts from buttstocks to sights to P80 (Glock) lowers. Obviously, it's good to know how to make springs etc. vs spending hundreds of dollars on Glock parts. Most of my printing is actually AR related. Check out the CAD files available online. It's crazy how popular it has become. There are even states trying (if they haven't yet) to ban 3D printers because people are building complete firearm chassis with them.
on std milspec lowers, you can insert from front using Brownells and others 1/2 milled punches. use appropriate sized punch from rear to act as slave pin. Bias the 1/2 milled punch slightly away from the receiver while you get the roll pin started and then straighten the punch to knock it the rest of the way in. Additionally, to assist holding the bolt catch in place, you can get the hammer to go into the forward position and it will apply pressure to bolt catch while you knock the roll pin in. using the hammer technique also helps when you are removing the bolt catch assembly for replacement and to prevent the catch/plunger and spring from taking off if you forget to hold the catch in place when you remove the 1/2 milled punch.
Nice video:) One other way is to use a pair of channel locks with one face covered in electrical tape. You just do a simple tap and then you the channel locks to squeeze the pin into place. Has worked for me for over 20 years...
I've seen that done, but if you think about it, the small protrusion with the far pin receiver hole is taking all the stress from the channel lock pressure. The possibility of it snapping off is very high. The wall thickness on that feature on either side of the pin hole is very thin and could crack easily.
That is very similar how I install those pins. However I use a roll pin starter punch and then a standard roll pin punch. Not a custom tool. I also place masking tape on the side of the lower to eliminate "oops" marks in the finish. This has worked well for the dozen or so rifles I've built. I love the slave pin idea. I'll be making a slave for use in my next build. Thanks Joe!
You can also use the short end of a 1/15" allen wrench from the front end if you don't have time or the place to go get wire to use. I also just a gentle tap from a brass hammer to start the pin and then used a 5/32" (4mm) tapered Irwin punch to finish the pin insert with the allen wrench getting pushed out of the front end.
I don't know if some companies make AR-15 lowers with a threaded hole and threaded pin or not. I haven't looked into it. However, on my AERO Precision AR-10 (308) lower it is threaded with a Torx head and it makes it very easy to install.
I have got into the habit of tapping the hole and using a 3/8" long grub screw. Makes it easier if I want to change the bolt catch to something different later on. Good tip though, Joe. I struggled with the first couple ARs I built because of that stupid roll pin.
The small lugs that hold the bolt catch/release lever are extremely small. Squeezing that pin in has always made me cringe regardless of who did it. You snap one of those little lugs off and kiss the lower good bye. The extended female punch is a good approach.
Nifty trick! I was saved the hassle of using a roll pin for the bolt catch on my Stag 10, because Stag cleverly replaced that piece with a pin that's threaded on the end, but I'll need to install a bolt catch roll pin soon. I'll give this a try.
A couple of good tips here. i would add: 1 - A drop of good lubricant or even white lithium grease on the spring and plunger will help ensure free flowng action of the bolt lock 2 - Ensure there is a good taper on the insertion end of the roll pin [my experience is that 50% are not well tapered]. A minute of so with a sharp mill bastard file will do the trick 3 - Before you drive in the roll pin ,put a drop of oil on that as well. It greatly eases the installation of the roll pin 4 - It makes good sense to put at least 2 layers of painter's tape on the lower receiver before you go to hammering away on your roll pin starter punch and later when you are finish driving. For whatever reason it is easy to mar the finish of the lower when installing this pin. 5 - While you can cover up accidental mars with a Sharpie, a better option is to buy a bottle of Aluminium Black from Brownells. The Sharpie leaves a shiny repair that doesna match the finish. The Aluminium Black matches perfectly - unless of course your receiver is blue or red or chartruse or you are going to hit it with Krylon camo paint and then who cares?
I am a former surgical instrument designer. Instruments need to be thoroughly cleaned between cases so we added access holes and slots. Hot water and detergents don't always get where it needs to get without access features on the instrument. On the OTHER hand, debris doesn't get there either, so its a balance of whats really needed. Now to the point....Roll pins are hardened and unlikely to transfer with use, and the bolt catch lever is usually hardened as well. This being said, these surfaces should function well as is, better with lube of course, but the lube now acts as an attraction point for dirt and sediment that will accelerate wear over time. If its a range gun, oil it, if its a jungle gun, I personally would just keep it clean and oil only the important stuff. Just my opinion. Initial lube at installation is a good idea, but keep your chamfer small because the resting land isn't very big and you want as much contact as possible.
Grace sells a pin punch that is specifically for the bolt catch. It has a notched side so it doesn't mar the receiver while driving the pin . However it's nice to see some people still have ingenuity great video Joe.
Beware the pin punch that goes inside the pin. Some of these have a radius where the small and large diameters come together. Under pressure, the radius will expand the pin and make it harder to drive in. A hollow driver like the one shown here is better for split roll pin installation.
@@joepie221 I was talking about the hole in the end punch. I have and use both though and I agree if you don't have the proper fit it can create problems. That aside I have respect for the fact that you had the ingenuity & took the time to fabricate your own punch. You do solid work thanks for sharing Joe.
I've tried every trick in the book for removing/installing the bolt catch roll pin. These are the two tools that have worked best for me: Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch (Part# 080-216-012WB) - A slab-sided punch that clears the left side of the magwell, allowing you to drive out the punch without marring your lower. In addition, I put a piece of masking tape over the "hump" on the magwell for added protection. KAK Walt's Tool - A long, roll pin punch starter, similar to the one you made. First, I insert the bolt catch and use the Brownell's punch to line it up with the corresponding holes in the lower. Then I start off the roll pin with the KAK punch and then drive it in about 90% of the way with a regular solid punch (instead of a roll pin punch). This is to prevent the end of the roll pin from "mushrooming" if there is too much resistance. Then I finish it off with a 3/32" roll pin punch. Done.
The one big mistake people make with a roll pin is using a punch that has a conical tip. Under pressure, it expands the pin and makes it harder to install. A flat face, or hollow punch like the one here is much better.
The wire tip was great! I would turn a feature on second side of the punch that has a first diameter that fits into the center hole of the pin and then the second diameter is only slightly thicker than the wall thickness of the pin. That way you will never catch on the receiver itself. A correct diameter hole transfer punch should do fine also.
A flat step on the punch as you first mentioned would be better than a transfer punch or tapered pin because it would expand the roll pin less, by driving on the end of the pin, and not from the inside diameter of the pin. You want to push straight on end of the pin and not from the inner diameter of the pin, which would do work to expand it.
if you shut the hammer on the trigger it generally will hold the bolt catch in place without needing something to hold it. ive also built an AR lower entirely with a vice. not even using a hammer get creative chat its just pounding a pin in a hole you dont need any fancy tools like some other people commenting were talking about not having.
I used a pice of wire coat hanger that i found in my closet, i cut it and bent it with pliers , the wire coat hangers come in one or two different thicknesses .
I have a roll pin starter punch for that, the piece of wire from the front is a must unless you have three hands. Yeah, you have to install the mag release first, thanks for the reminder.
Unless its a hollow punch like the one shown, a flat face punch is the next best thing. Don't use a pin punch with a pointed tip it expands the roll pin when it meets resistance and makes it even harder to drive in.
Good tip! I have\use roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches like is mentioned by an earlier comment. I also have one designed specifically for the AR that is milled flat on one side...
Punches with conical tip leads that go inside the pin will locate them just fine, but under impact, that same conical feature will spread the pin and add to resistance. Roll pins should not be driven from the ID.
Joe Pieczynski good point... Though mine have just a slight some that only serves to center the punch on the pin and the outside diameter is what drives the punch. They are truly better used and invaluable in removing the roll pin. My method is similar to yours...start it with a roll pin starter punch and finishing with the biggest flat punch. I've picked up tons of good tips and methods from you... Thanks for sharing your experience!
Slick I like that trick! I will say I've used the vise grip method a number of times and it's worked for me and hasn't damaged the lower at all but I suppose it's possible
Looks like you nicked the finish. Your homemade roll pin starter looks great but use a proper roll pin punch to finish. It will allow you to recess the pin just a bit without damaging your upper.
Excellent. The slave pin technique really helps to align things you can't see. I use it in many applications. This is just one. Thanks for the comment.
Easy installation. Just need to make custom fab tools for something many people will only do once. Instead of getting wire from a "local welder" and bending it, why not use a small Allen key? Lubricate the holes, get the roll pin stated, then slowly and carefully squeezed it in with some vice grips.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. You choose the one that makes you happy. Me...I'll never use taped up vise grips to install a bolt catch pin. You snap one of those ears off and the lower is trash.
Totally inspired Joe and logical too. Hope I don't have to bother but like Chuck, wondering the best way to drift that pin out again, safely - if in fact that would necessary.
OMG start the roll pin fist from the rear to where it just protrudes into the gap, put all the other parts in, squeeze the roll pin into place with a pair of channel locks with a little electrical tape wrapped arround them. I had no idea people thought this was hard to do until I was looking arround on u-tube and found out how many people make this harder that it needs to be. Once you start to squeeze the channel plocks you can wiggle arround the stop to get it lined up with the free hand. I didnt even use a vise to hold the reciever when i was younger, arthritis made me a littlle less sure handed.
I would never tell anyone to squeeze those tabs with vise grips, wrapped in tape or not. Its a common practice, but that small piece of aluminum shouldn't be squeezed with anything.
@@joepie221 if you will note i said channel locks, not vice grips. Big difference. If you cant judge the pressure you are putting on a roll pin for crying out loud then yes don't use this method. But is reality there is far less chance of damaging it with the easy pressure of channel locks that a drift and a hammer. Come on!! Lets beat on it rather than gently push. The parts fill the gap as well and you have already started the pin in the near side hole. I think maybe someone just want to be an internet expert.
I only purchase uppers (correction ‘lower’) that have a grove running across that extended section. If a manufacturer doesn’t take this extra step- he doesn’t earn my money.. Best video on this instillation. Thanks All Black Rifles Matter
just wanted to thank you for the helpful video, btw i found that a 5/64 allen key does the trick of your wire you used to keep hole aligned, i rigged a driver per your instructions and viola she is in man!
Brownells makes an Offset Roll Pin punch that allows you to install it from the rear. You won't mark up your receiver, as displayed on the rear of the bolt catch here.
A lot of people don't realize if you drive a roll pin from the inside, it expands it and makes it harder to seat. Roll pins should be installed either dead ended or in a cup. Its easier.
Pretty much exactly how we do it in the shop. We made a starter punch and then found an extra length roll pin punch, with the little centering nub on the end. That guy almost guarantees not to damage the receiver as it is the same diameter as the pin. Then just a dab of super black to color the pin.
While you’re making punches make a roll pin punch and grind about 4.5” of the side of the punch then with a little tape on the receiver you won’t scratch the side of the receiver. As a gunsmith if I scratched the side of the reciever as you did some customers will complain.
FYI, you can use a roll pin starter punch vs drilling your own to drive it through. His tool is easier to use though if you have the tools/patience. The wire is a good tip.
I always forget to put the mag catch in first! But, push the button and grab the back side and pull it out as far as you can against the spring and it will clear the standard bolt release
@@joepie221 Well, at least it was you that did the deed. It really sucks when you hand something off to a "buddy" and later they hand it back kanked......
Or, you could just get a proper roll pin punch set. They're not expensive and they're made specifically for roll pins. As for a slave pin, a small allen wrench works A-OK and is pretty easy to find if you don't already have one. It's easier than finding a local welder for a filler rod and drilling your own hole into a blank piece of steel rod!
The exterior round pad on the bolt catch broke on my A-15 and I need to remove it in order to do what you show in the video. How would I remove the roll pin, just tap it out like you tap it in? Thank you any advise would be appreciated.
@@joepie221hello, when removing towards the grip wouldnt the pin hit the elevated part of the receiver there? I know some lowers have small elevated areas that are cleared by the roll pin but on one like that how would you go about removing
I’m interested in getting into milling my own lowers. What would be a good mini-mill that is or could be set up for cnc. So I can mill my own lowers from titanium. I prefer quality over speed. Any help you have on mills and programs would be helpful. Thanks again for your help and videos
04:16 Yeah, except for the fact that I don't know any welders, and I don't own a lathe or drill press to make your little pin-holding punch. Why do "easy installation" videos always require a shit-ton of tools you don't have?? I just wanted to build an AR for fun...not invest in a machine shop. Brilliant idea, BTW...I just wont be able to duplicate it. **sigh**
It's not that bad! The bent wire tool is the most important element. You can make it from any wire that is about the right size: 3/32. Decimal is 0.09375inch (2.38mm). This is almost exactly 13 gauge. It doesn't have to be that close even. I made a tool using some 1/16" brass wire I had lying around and it worked OK. 14G copper wire would be OK, as would any 2mm wire you can bend. Any hardware store will have something you can use. Drilling a hole in the end of steel rod stock isn't easy without a drill press (I have one but no lathe). Though it doesn't have to be exact on center or that deep so it is doable with a table vice, power drill, a nail or a $4 harborfreight automatic center punch, and WD40 or real cutting lubricant (like Tap Magic). Put stock in vice, use punch or nail to mark drilling point, drill straight as you can deep enough to hold the pin. Then use a file to bevel the edges of the rod. But you don''t even need a specialized tool at all for tapping the pin in. You can get away with just putting down masking tape around where you put the pin in. Use needle nose pliers to hold the pin to get it started with a standard brass punch and/or small brass/hard rubber hammer that you'll need for doing any firearms work anyway. You can use a file to slightly bevel one end of the pin to make it easier, Once the pin is in enough that you don't need the pliers, just tap it in with the brass punch. Problems solved. This way is a little less easy than making the pin holding tool, but It still works and doesn't require making anything with any specialized tools or stuff not at Home Depot or Lowes for a couple bucks.
AeroPrecision makes a M4E1 lower that actually makes this a threaded rod rather than a punchable pin. They improved this unlike everyone else. It is however a little more money. Just an FYI. I damaged multiple before seeing these
I do like the idea of the piece of 1/4 inch rod with the hole drilled in it to hold the roll pin. That would have been quite helpful to my effort. A pair of needlenose pliars just doesn't do the job very well...
Using a punch on a roll pin is risky of the face of the punch isn't flat. A recessed punch like I used help to assure you don't damage the small lugs on the lower with an out of alignment approach.
Instead of making the bent wire tool. You can use a small allen wrench, that fits, and gets held in place under spring tension. A roll pin starter punch & roll pin punch, made for the AR Lower, is a great tool set to get too.
Wheeler Engineering makes both the starter punch and roll pin punch set. They work well for me.
Hello Joe, you are a clever man. This looks like an inexpensive way to do a tricky job. Thanks for your generosity.
I've put together dozens of lowers and this is the easiest technique I've seen for the bolt catch pin. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it. It works well.
I'd been futzing around with this all afternoon trying to figure out how to grow a third hand. I love the pin-holding punch idea. Simple and effective. I found a piece of 3/16" HRS in my scrap bin and drilled it in my lathe; works PERFECTLY. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Could use a small cleaning rod, worked for me
Brilliant. Also, that is a crazy Lower, that is square and jagged in sharp. It looks interesting.
I machined it from a solid block in a multi part RUclips series a while back. They changed their gun content policy and I had to take it down. Too bad. the machining setups and sequence was very educational.
@ Bad. Ass. I’ll have to scroll through your videos and see if you have it built. I’d love to see if it Frankenstein into something.
First several I did with just a correctly sized roll pin punch. Even after reading the dire warnings about slipping off the pin and making a big ugly scratch in the side of the receiver. All of them came out unblemished. Your shop made tool is perfect and a fraction of the cost of the purpose built set of tools from Wheeler. As long as you have a lathe to drill the hole... Great tip on the welding rod bent retaining/ lineup tool. As always well done Joe! Thank you.
The long punch is really safe and effective. Thanks for the comment.
If you’re worried about your guns getting scratched up you must not shoot them very often 😂
Thanks for pointing out your complete lack of understanding of good workmanship and fine craftsmanship. @@codygreene9067
I like this idea using a long punch to reach it and the hole in the end is nice. One thing you might do is add some heat shrink to the rod to prevent some nicks in case of a slip.
OMG! Thank you! I am attempting my first ever build. and Boy, You have made a difficult operation super-simple. Getting the right tips from guys that really know what they are doing makes all the difference in the world. I sure wish I had seen this before I tried it the first time, LOL!
What a great video. Well-lit and visible closeups, quick explanations, and no wasted time on setups. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Did you see the machining series that made this lower?
Real Avid makes a two punch kit made specifically for this job, which I like, and its only 13 bucks or so. The punches have notched out sides to fit the receiver better, and the starter punch is magnetic to easily hold the roll pin.
You can also use a 3/32 Allen wrench if it’s too long just wittle it down on or with a grinder. If you don’t know any welders.
I'm a little proud of myself, I did the same thing when I built my first lower. I used an allen key instead of a bending a welding rod. When I was an auto mechanic I learned to start bigger roll pins by holding them in a deep socket and tapping them in with an extension. Subaru half shafts are held in with roll pins and can be easily reinstalled with that trick. I didn't invent that though, I was shown it when I was an apprentice.
Its a solid technique and can save damage to the receiving part.
MASON CROSS I would have moved across the country to be his apprentice, I learn something with every one of his videos. And he's doing something right, look at his shop. Keep it up Joe. Please. You have a lot to offer and the vast majority of us watching want to learn from you.
It also fits perfectly in a T30 security star drive. Thanks for the idea! Worked great
A piece of toothpick makes a pretty good slave pin as well (but I actually like the weld rod better). I like that 1/4” homemade punch better than the slab sided punches that are made for this. I’ve actually bent a couple of them and the slab side still touches the receiver - so you still need tape. Yours is the best method I’ve seen yet. Now I want to get another lower just so I can try it out 😊.
Good video. I was looking for slightly more instant gratification than a trip to the welding shop. So I just used a 2mm Allen wrench to hold everything together while I drove the pin in. Worked great.
I used an old wire coat hanger
Dude, simple, fast, and effective AND hardly any additional cost for job-specific tools!!! Thanks!!! I struggled mightily getting that bolt catch in-even had to have my son help me! Needed four hands to complete the job. It's one of those,"why didn't I think of that?!?!?" situations. Again, thanks for posting this vid!
Excellent & informative video Joe, thank you. If you don't have access to 093 or 3/32" filler rod, a (2D zinc coated?) finishing nail with the point ground off & bent will do the trick too.
Great tip!
Joe, thanks for the tips. I've put together a few lowers and your tip is one that saves the most time and lowers the chance on marking up a lower.
Just found this and THANK. YOU. Where on this forsaken green earth was THIS tidbit when I built one AR and upgraded, and worked on my other? THIS is an epically simple solution to end a lot of non-child approved verbiage. Stellar, man. Thank you!!
I just trashed my pin trying to install. And its 10:34 at night. Now I have to go to work tonight and open up to get a new one! Thanks this helps except I dont have the tools to do it like you have. My next purchase is a pin starter and punch set.
Joe how did you know I was building another AR and was looking for a better way to install this roll pin? Your psychic! The slave pin is a great idea. This was a great short project for me this afternoon. I'm just learning how to make chips and break tools on a lathe and a mill. Please keep the excellent videos coming. Thanks!
Hit that sub button after you stop smiling.
You can buy a roll pin install punch in several sizes that does the same thing. Great to have in your repair kit. Seat it with a roll pin driving punch that has a nipple the size of the hole in the roll pin, in several sizes. Common in armorer kits.
Joe, one other thing that I do is install a piece of shrink wrap over the ¼" drive rod. This will eliminate any scuff marks on the side of the receiver.
now yur thinkin, excellent idea
Thank you, followed your instructions and used a small allen wrench as a slave pin, one thing i did differently was tap the roll pin in slightly just to get it started because i didnt have a vice, this was my first build and it turned out great
The best part is the magwell vise block machined from oak.......🇺🇸✊
Guaranteed not to scratch the finish.
@@joepie221 you might want to consider purchasing a 3D printer if you don't have one already. You can print so many crafty things for the house and shop and more. I have printed cabinets, tables, tools, spatulas, tiles for the kitchen floor, pegboard, hangers, picture frames, soap holder, salt and pepper shaker and the list go on for days. What might interest you some more is related to firearms. I have printed hundreds of firearm parts from buttstocks to sights to P80 (Glock) lowers. Obviously, it's good to know how to make springs etc. vs spending hundreds of dollars on Glock parts. Most of my printing is actually AR related. Check out the CAD files available online. It's crazy how popular it has become. There are even states trying (if they haven't yet) to ban 3D printers because people are building complete firearm chassis with them.
on std milspec lowers, you can insert from front using Brownells and others 1/2 milled punches. use appropriate sized punch from rear to act as slave pin. Bias the 1/2 milled punch slightly away from the receiver while you get the roll pin started and then straighten the punch to knock it the rest of the way in. Additionally, to assist holding the bolt catch in place, you can get the hammer to go into the forward position and it will apply pressure to bolt catch while you knock the roll pin in. using the hammer technique also helps when you are removing the bolt catch assembly for replacement and to prevent the catch/plunger and spring from taking off if you forget to hold the catch in place when you remove the 1/2 milled punch.
Best install and instruction I have seen !
Nice video:) One other way is to use a pair of channel locks with one face covered in electrical tape. You just do a simple tap and then you the channel locks to squeeze the pin into place. Has worked for me for over 20 years...
I've seen that done, but if you think about it, the small protrusion with the far pin receiver hole is taking all the stress from the channel lock pressure. The possibility of it snapping off is very high. The wall thickness on that feature on either side of the pin hole is very thin and could crack easily.
Excellent idea. Love that suggestion of 3/32 filler rod. Going to buy some at Lowe's right now. Thank you!!
Use a Round Toothpick with one end blunted. Cheap and won't scratch a thing.
thats what I did as well, worked great.
That is very similar how I install those pins. However I use a roll pin starter punch and then a standard roll pin punch. Not a custom tool. I also place masking tape on the side of the lower to eliminate "oops" marks in the finish. This has worked well for the dozen or so rifles I've built. I love the slave pin idea. I'll be making a slave for use in my next build. Thanks Joe!
I've been using KNS's precision bolt catch retaining pin , I have been quite happy with it so far.
You can also use the short end of a 1/15" allen wrench from the front end if you don't have time or the place to go get wire to use. I also just a gentle tap from a brass hammer to start the pin and then used a 5/32" (4mm) tapered Irwin punch to finish the pin insert with the allen wrench getting pushed out of the front end.
Sounds like a good method, but my subscribers would hang me if I didn't ask about the 1/15" allen wrench. 1/16" maybe ??
However you get the pin in or out, masking tape can be used to help prevent scuffing. Saw that trick in Midway's howto series.
Ive pushed in quite a few catch pibs with the taped channel locks method...never had any problems 👍🏾
Yet.
I don't know if some companies make AR-15 lowers with a threaded hole and threaded pin or not. I haven't looked into it. However, on my AERO Precision AR-10 (308) lower it is threaded with a Torx head and it makes it very easy to install.
I believe they do. I like the idea. Since I made this lower, I should have considered that upgrade.
Aero M4E1 is threaded... along with the rear takedown to stop the spring from flying when replacing the stock
I have got into the habit of tapping the hole and using a 3/8" long grub screw. Makes it easier if I want to change the bolt catch to something different later on. Good tip though, Joe. I struggled with the first couple ARs I built because of that stupid roll pin.
I like this way of doing it. Absolutely safer for the lower.
The small lugs that hold the bolt catch/release lever are extremely small. Squeezing that pin in has always made me cringe regardless of who did it. You snap one of those little lugs off and kiss the lower good bye. The extended female punch is a good approach.
Nifty trick! I was saved the hassle of using a roll pin for the bolt catch on my Stag 10, because Stag cleverly replaced that piece with a pin that's threaded on the end, but I'll need to install a bolt catch roll pin soon. I'll give this a try.
Great tip Joe. So many people do this wrong glad you made it so simple. I will be sharing it...
Thanks. I don't believe in struggling if I don't have to.
Aero lowers nowadays eliminates all that with a threaded pin and a few other great features but that is a very good tip 👍🤪🇺🇲
I cringe when I see someone squeeze those little ears with taped pliers. Break one off and you throw that lower in the trash.
Great Vid. I built one and it sure saves a lot of time and headaches. Thanks for sharing.
It works very well. The slave pin is a must.
Absolutely the best video on RUclips on the topic
Did you see the series on the production of that lower?
@@joepie221 no but I will go back and check it out!
I love finding new channels and ways of doing things!
@@brianneedham6060 www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
Store bought ones go inside the pin and can expand the diameter under drive in pressure. OD nesting is the way to go.
Man this just helped me out so much!
A couple of good tips here. i would add:
1 - A drop of good lubricant or even white lithium grease on the spring and plunger will help ensure free flowng action of the bolt lock
2 - Ensure there is a good taper on the insertion end of the roll pin [my experience is that 50% are not well tapered]. A minute of so with a sharp mill bastard file will do the trick
3 - Before you drive in the roll pin ,put a drop of oil on that as well. It greatly eases the installation of the roll pin
4 - It makes good sense to put at least 2 layers of painter's tape on the lower receiver before you go to hammering away on your roll pin starter punch and later when you are finish driving. For whatever reason it is easy to mar the finish of the lower when installing this pin.
5 - While you can cover up accidental mars with a Sharpie, a better option is to buy a bottle of Aluminium Black from Brownells. The Sharpie leaves a shiny repair that doesna match the finish. The Aluminium Black matches perfectly - unless of course your receiver is blue or red or chartruse or you are going to hit it with Krylon camo paint and then who cares?
I am a former surgical instrument designer. Instruments need to be thoroughly cleaned between cases so we added access holes and slots. Hot water and detergents don't always get where it needs to get without access features on the instrument. On the OTHER hand, debris doesn't get there either, so its a balance of whats really needed. Now to the point....Roll pins are hardened and unlikely to transfer with use, and the bolt catch lever is usually hardened as well. This being said, these surfaces should function well as is, better with lube of course, but the lube now acts as an attraction point for dirt and sediment that will accelerate wear over time. If its a range gun, oil it, if its a jungle gun, I personally would just keep it clean and oil only the important stuff. Just my opinion. Initial lube at installation is a good idea, but keep your chamfer small because the resting land isn't very big and you want as much contact as possible.
That 3/32" slave pin, wire is a great idea. Good job on the homemade punch & pin starter too.
After machining that lower from a solid block, the punch and pin starter were a piece of cake. Thanks for the comment.
Grace sells a pin punch that is specifically for the bolt catch. It has a notched side so it doesn't mar the receiver while driving the pin . However it's nice to see some people still have ingenuity great video Joe.
Beware the pin punch that goes inside the pin. Some of these have a radius where the small and large diameters come together. Under pressure, the radius will expand the pin and make it harder to drive in. A hollow driver like the one shown here is better for split roll pin installation.
@@joepie221 I was talking about the hole in the end punch. I have and use both though and I agree if you don't have the proper fit it can create problems. That aside I have respect for the fact that you had the ingenuity & took the time to fabricate your own punch. You do solid work thanks for sharing Joe.
@@KingOfTheLosers13 Did you get an opportunity to watch the fabrication series on that lower before it came down?
@@joepie221 no I didn't I was looking for it but couldn't find it.
@@KingOfTheLosers13 www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
Thanks, Joe. Very well done and so simple.
I've tried every trick in the book for removing/installing the bolt catch roll pin. These are the two tools that have worked best for me:
Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch (Part# 080-216-012WB) - A slab-sided punch that clears the left side of the magwell, allowing you to drive out the punch without marring your lower. In addition, I put a piece of masking tape over the "hump" on the magwell for added protection.
KAK Walt's Tool - A long, roll pin punch starter, similar to the one you made.
First, I insert the bolt catch and use the Brownell's punch to line it up with the corresponding holes in the lower. Then I start off the roll pin with the KAK punch and then drive it in about 90% of the way with a regular solid punch (instead of a roll pin punch). This is to prevent the end of the roll pin from "mushrooming" if there is too much resistance. Then I finish it off with a 3/32" roll pin punch. Done.
The one big mistake people make with a roll pin is using a punch that has a conical tip. Under pressure, it expands the pin and makes it harder to install. A flat face, or hollow punch like the one here is much better.
The wire tip was great!
I would turn a feature on second side of the punch that has a first diameter that fits into the center hole of the pin and then the second diameter is only slightly thicker than the wall thickness of the pin. That way you will never catch on the receiver itself. A correct diameter hole transfer punch should do fine also.
A flat step on the punch as you first mentioned would be better than a transfer punch or tapered pin because it would expand the roll pin less, by driving on the end of the pin, and not from the inside diameter of the pin. You want to push straight on end of the pin and not from the inner diameter of the pin, which would do work to expand it.
Brilliant. Was having problems lining up the hole and roll pin. I'll use your slave pin idea next time.
if you shut the hammer on the trigger it generally will hold the bolt catch in place without needing something to hold it. ive also built an AR lower entirely with a vice. not even using a hammer get creative chat its just pounding a pin in a hole you dont need any fancy tools like some other people commenting were talking about not having.
You sir, are a genius. This is awesome. I now have two tools which cost me around $3.
Glad I could help
I used a pice of wire coat hanger that i found in my closet, i cut it and bent it with pliers , the wire coat hangers come in one or two different thicknesses .
I have a roll pin starter punch for that, the piece of wire from the front is a must unless you have three hands. Yeah, you have to install the mag release first, thanks for the reminder.
Unless its a hollow punch like the one shown, a flat face punch is the next best thing. Don't use a pin punch with a pointed tip it expands the roll pin when it meets resistance and makes it even harder to drive in.
Good tip! I have\use roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches like is mentioned by an earlier comment. I also have one designed specifically for the AR that is milled flat on one side...
Punches with conical tip leads that go inside the pin will locate them just fine, but under impact, that same conical feature will spread the pin and add to resistance. Roll pins should not be driven from the ID.
Joe Pieczynski good point... Though mine have just a slight some that only serves to center the punch on the pin and the outside diameter is what drives the punch. They are truly better used and invaluable in removing the roll pin. My method is similar to yours...start it with a roll pin starter punch and finishing with the biggest flat punch.
I've picked up tons of good tips and methods from you... Thanks for sharing your experience!
Slick I like that trick! I will say I've used the vise grip method a number of times and it's worked for me and hasn't damaged the lower at all but I suppose it's possible
Looks like you nicked the finish. Your homemade roll pin starter looks great but use a proper roll pin punch to finish. It will allow you to recess the pin just a bit without damaging your upper.
Good job , you can also use this technique on the gas block gas tube install ! Thanks
Similar to how I do it. I put masking tape on my lower just in case I slip. Nice work
Thanks.
ok. i rarely watch gun vids. this tip will directly translate to a watch pin issue ive been having though, and i thank you for that!
Excellent. The slave pin technique really helps to align things you can't see. I use it in many applications. This is just one. Thanks for the comment.
Easy installation. Just need to make custom fab tools for something many people will only do once.
Instead of getting wire from a "local welder" and bending it, why not use a small Allen key? Lubricate the holes, get the roll pin stated, then slowly and carefully squeezed it in with some vice grips.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. You choose the one that makes you happy. Me...I'll never use taped up vise grips to install a bolt catch pin. You snap one of those ears off and the lower is trash.
Totally inspired Joe and logical too. Hope I don't have to bother but like Chuck, wondering the best way to drift that pin out again, safely - if in fact that would necessary.
I just use a broken off piece of wooden q-tip. It’s also the perfect size, and it is slightly flexible.
Good thought.
OMG start the roll pin fist from the rear to where it just protrudes into the gap, put all the other parts in, squeeze the roll pin into place with a pair of channel locks with a little electrical tape wrapped arround them. I had no idea people thought this was hard to do until I was looking arround on u-tube and found out how many people make this harder that it needs to be. Once you start to squeeze the channel plocks you can wiggle arround the stop to get it lined up with the free hand. I didnt even use a vise to hold the reciever when i was younger, arthritis made me a littlle less sure handed.
I would never tell anyone to squeeze those tabs with vise grips, wrapped in tape or not. Its a common practice, but that small piece of aluminum shouldn't be squeezed with anything.
@@joepie221 if you will note i said channel locks, not vice grips. Big difference. If you cant judge the pressure you are putting on a roll pin for crying out loud then yes don't use this method. But is reality there is far less chance of damaging it with the easy pressure of channel locks that a drift and a hammer. Come on!! Lets beat on it rather than gently push. The parts fill the gap as well and you have already started the pin in the near side hole. I think maybe someone just want to be an internet expert.
I only purchase uppers (correction ‘lower’) that have a grove running across that extended section. If a manufacturer doesn’t take this extra step- he doesn’t earn my money.. Best video on this instillation. Thanks
All Black Rifles Matter
You said upper?
My bad
just wanted to thank you for the helpful video, btw i found that a 5/64 allen key does the trick of your wire you used to keep hole aligned, i rigged a driver per your instructions and viola she is in man!
Glad it helped
Brownells makes an Offset Roll Pin punch that allows you to install it from the rear. You won't mark up your receiver, as displayed on the rear of the bolt catch here.
A lot of people don't realize if you drive a roll pin from the inside, it expands it and makes it harder to seat. Roll pins should be installed either dead ended or in a cup. Its easier.
Very good video, and great idea. So what is the best method to REMOVE that roll pin, when you want to install a new and improved bolt release ?
Slick trick! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Pretty much exactly how we do it in the shop. We made a starter punch and then found an extra length roll pin punch, with the little centering nub on the end. That guy almost guarantees not to damage the receiver as it is the same diameter as the pin. Then just a dab of super black to color the pin.
Awesome video man. Quick, to the point and very informative.
Glad you liked it. Did you catch the series showing the machining of that lower from a solid block?
Joe Pieczynski Not yet but I will, thanks.
@@robertgolden1080 The series is on another platform. www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
While you’re making punches make a roll pin punch and grind about 4.5” of the side of the punch then with a little tape on the receiver you won’t scratch the side of the receiver. As a gunsmith if I scratched the side of the reciever as you did some customers will complain.
I made the receiver from a solid block of aluminum. I can probably make that scratch disappear.
FYI, you can use a roll pin starter punch vs drilling your own to drive it through.
His tool is easier to use though if you have the tools/patience. The wire is a good tip.
A 5/64 allen key works a slave pin too. Great video and thank u!
Great job Joe, now your are ready to install a new hammer spring on a Thompson Contender.;>)
Thank you sir I was at this point and I wasn't sure what to do big thumbs 👍 up
Thanks. Be gentle to those little blocks.
Joe, Well done very clever. I'll be making my own tools.
I always forget to put the mag catch in first! But, push the button and grab the back side and pull it out as far as you can against the spring and it will clear the standard bolt release
Nice video.
Double check for a taper on the end of the roll pin before starting.
Lube everything first
Make the starter rod/tool out of brass ;)
Just as a caution, brass will still nick aluminum. I was pissed when I hit the edge. I made that lower from a solid billet and it was flawless.
@@joepie221 Well, at least it was you that did the deed. It really sucks when you hand something off to a "buddy" and later they hand it back kanked......
Yep the taper on the roll pin that's what got me😏
Thank You, you are very skilled! I learned alot from your approach.
Or, you could just get a proper roll pin punch set. They're not expensive and they're made specifically for roll pins. As for a slave pin, a small allen wrench works A-OK and is pretty easy to find if you don't already have one.
It's easier than finding a local welder for a filler rod and drilling your own hole into a blank piece of steel rod!
For sure you have many options. This is mine.
Get video looks pretty straight forward. I was having trouble not having a 3rd hand when trying to do it
Another viewer said a round toothpick is another option to hold it.
The exterior round pad on the bolt catch broke on my A-15 and I need to remove it in order to do what you show in the video. How would I remove the roll pin, just tap it out like you tap it in? Thank you any advise would be appreciated.
Yes. But be sure to tap it towards the grip and not the barrel.
@@joepie221hello, when removing towards the grip wouldnt the pin hit the elevated part of the receiver there? I know some lowers have small elevated areas that are cleared by the roll pin but on one like that how would you go about removing
I’m interested in getting into milling my own lowers. What would be a good mini-mill that is or could be set up for cnc. So I can mill my own lowers from titanium. I prefer quality over speed. Any help you have on mills and programs would be helpful. Thanks again for your help and videos
Absolutely genius! Thank you for this video
Very nice, thank you for sharing with the RUclips community.
You may enjoy the 10 part series on my Google Plus page.
Excellent video for a bolt catch installation.....................Thank you
04:16 Yeah, except for the fact that I don't know any welders, and I don't own a lathe or drill press to make your little pin-holding punch. Why do "easy installation" videos always require a shit-ton of tools you don't have?? I just wanted to build an AR for fun...not invest in a machine shop. Brilliant idea, BTW...I just wont be able to duplicate it. **sigh**
It's not that bad! The bent wire tool is the most important element. You can make it from any wire that is about the right size: 3/32. Decimal is 0.09375inch (2.38mm). This is almost exactly 13 gauge. It doesn't have to be that close even. I made a tool using some 1/16" brass wire I had lying around and it worked OK. 14G copper wire would be OK, as would any 2mm wire you can bend. Any hardware store will have something you can use.
Drilling a hole in the end of steel rod stock isn't easy without a drill press (I have one but no lathe). Though it doesn't have to be exact on center or that deep so it is doable with a table vice, power drill, a nail or a $4 harborfreight automatic center punch, and WD40 or real cutting lubricant (like Tap Magic). Put stock in vice, use punch or nail to mark drilling point, drill straight as you can deep enough to hold the pin. Then use a file to bevel the edges of the rod.
But you don''t even need a specialized tool at all for tapping the pin in. You can get away with just putting down masking tape around where you put the pin in. Use needle nose pliers to hold the pin to get it started with a standard brass punch and/or small brass/hard rubber hammer that you'll need for doing any firearms work anyway. You can use a file to slightly bevel one end of the pin to make it easier, Once the pin is in enough that you don't need the pliers, just tap it in with the brass punch. Problems solved. This way is a little less easy than making the pin holding tool, but It still works and doesn't require making anything with any specialized tools or stuff not at Home Depot or Lowes for a couple bucks.
I bet you're a real hoot at parties and family gatherings ...
Thank You for this!!! Tomorrow i'll get these tools
wow, why didn't i think of that. i must be getting old. great job , thanks!
DONE= scratched!
So simple but so affective I like it 👍 thanks
On another post someone suggested freezing the pin to aid in installation.
That was FANTASTIC!!! Thank you!! Subscribed!!!
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I've messed up TWO lowers installing this POS! Probably THE MOST frustrating part to install!!!
AeroPrecision makes a M4E1 lower that actually makes this a threaded rod rather than a punchable pin. They improved this unlike everyone else. It is however a little more money. Just an FYI. I damaged multiple before seeing these
Thanks for this pops! That was a quick job…
The slave pin works well.
I do like the idea of the piece of 1/4 inch rod with the hole drilled in it to hold the roll pin. That would have been quite helpful to my effort. A pair of needlenose pliars just doesn't do the job very well...
Using a punch on a roll pin is risky of the face of the punch isn't flat. A recessed punch like I used help to assure you don't damage the small lugs on the lower with an out of alignment approach.
Well done, just the tip I was looking for.
I made that lower from a solid block of aluminum. Did you see the series before it came down?