Thanks. I have a Classic 30 where one of the power tubes looks to be red-plating. I'm sure the tube socket is in trouble and can't find an amp tech around here to help. Videos like yours, D-Lab's and Psionic Audio's almost make me feel like I can do this myself, or at least have fun trying (after safely discharging the filter caps, of course!). Great video. Thanks again.
Good video. I'm looking at a used 30 with a preamp tube issue, that I'm hoping I can resolve. The IC caps are gonna cost be a few bucks. Same crap caps Fender uses in Blues Juniors. What's that 'ticking' noise in the background??
Very interesting video, thank you! An elementary question from me: Is the delta blues the same to the classic 30 (apart from the speaker and the tremolo) - i think the circuit is identical? Do they mean they are supposed to produce 'roughly speaking' similar driven sound (with any changes coming from the speaker)? I find that my delta blues lacks saturation in the crunch channel compared to the classic 30 reviews i hear.. Is delta blues supposed to be lower gain on the crunch channel or is there something wrong with my amp? Thanks!
hi my friend , thanks for sharing your knowledge , on r66 socket i just blow out a resistor , where can i find that part ?? could you advice some site to buy this resistor ???
Great video. Thanks. When you reflowed the joints on the tube sockets, did you first remove all the old solder? It wasn't clear in the video. I have a PC30 that stops sending signal after 40 minutes or so. I am thinking it is temperature related. Any ideas where I should look to fix?
My Peavey Delta Blues will technically switch over to the dirty channel, but their is no dirt and the volume is incredibly low. Any idea what might be the problem?
I'm surprised you didn't change the other 2 electrolytics, C45 and C46 while you were at it - as long as the thing is on the bench. They are Illinois Caps, they will go eventually.
Thanks for video Mr. Tone Pump sir. I have to take apart a PV-30/ JD 30-T (Jack Daniel's model) just to clean the Scratchy pot's with a good cleaner/lubricant. Please anybody let me know if these pot's can be cleaned inside with a pressure solvent. Starting with a can of Deoxit and need all the advice I can get. Thanks all.
Does Peavey put Illinois Capacitors in their amps on purpose so they'll fail. And then people will have to go out and buy another amp? Not to mention they use an inordinate amount of glue to make it harder to replace them.
With any large company it's usually about the $. Illinois caps were probably the least expensive. If you build 10,000 amps and each cap is $1 cheaper than another better quality cap the $ adds up quickly. You'd be surprised. I've seen some big name boutique amps using really cheap parts. All the glue is to protect against vibration. Sometimes I've seen a need for it, but most of the time it's just a pain when you have to work on something.
The first and easiest thing to check would be the effects loop. Plug a patch cord from the send to the return (or preamp out to power amp in, I forgot how it's labeled) If you have sound then the switching portion of the power amp in jack needs to be cleaned. If that doesn't work it's probably one or more of the little wire jumpers between the boards that needs to be fixed.
For the life of me, I can't understand why, on earth, Peavey used that bare, rigid wire to connect the 3 circuit boards? Why wouldn't they simply use a nice, flexible, stranded conductor with insulation? Certainly, it couldn't have saved THAT much money, right? A couple fractions of a penny per amp, maybe? If their reasoning was "structural", well, they could've just beefed up those "L" brackets that attach to the boards. I'm also surprised to have never seen anyone mod these amps and do away with those bare, rigid jumpers. Yes, it'd be a big job, but one that I'd think would be worth the effort, especially if you're the type to make amp mods and plan on being in and out of there a bunch. FWIW, I currently own a "Classic 30" and a "Classic 20". Nice video, btw.
Thank you for showing us the insides of this Peavey amp - Now that I can see how crap these amps are made, it re confirms to me to buy a quality hand made amp with old school technology even if it costs double.....Cheers.....
They are fine if you buy new and use them for 10 yrs and then sell on. If you are buying one amp forever then point to point custom build is the way to go.
What a POS design . I refuse most of them . Plus I would charge double or triple rate if customer insist on fix . Worst amps on the planet . 100% Pure worthless JUNK .
please, make video with popular «blue» (blueguitar, steve ahola) mods to peavey classic 30 and 50, please. you can find the schematics and notes here: www.blueguitar.net/
Just a suggestion, please make sure you speak loud enough to be heard and please turn down the occasional load music [ or better yet NO loud music] hard to hear the technical talk and then blown out of my chair by unexpected music bursts. Thanks, good videos otherwise.
Well done, I have had this amp since it first came out, sounds great. I don’t understand the Peavey hate, never had issues with any of mine. 🤷♂️🤘
Thanks. I have a Classic 30 where one of the power tubes looks to be red-plating. I'm sure the tube socket is in trouble and can't find an amp tech around here to help. Videos like yours, D-Lab's and Psionic Audio's almost make me feel like I can do this myself, or at least have fun trying (after safely discharging the filter caps, of course!).
Great video. Thanks again.
Good video. I'm looking at a used 30 with a preamp tube issue, that I'm hoping I can resolve. The IC caps are gonna cost be a few bucks. Same crap caps Fender uses in Blues Juniors. What's that 'ticking' noise in the background??
I have a classic 30 manufactured in 2012. Pots are scratchy and I needed to figure out how to get to them. Thanks!
Very interesting video, thank you! An elementary question from me: Is the delta blues the same to the classic 30 (apart from the speaker and the tremolo) - i think the circuit is identical? Do they mean they are supposed to produce 'roughly speaking' similar driven sound (with any changes coming from the speaker)? I find that my delta blues lacks saturation in the crunch channel compared to the classic 30 reviews i hear.. Is delta blues supposed to be lower gain on the crunch channel or is there something wrong with my amp? Thanks!
I used to own a Delta Blues and if i remember right it does have less gain than a Classic 30
@@TonePumpAmps Thank you very much for the reply! So i assume the circuits must be different then? As the tubes are the same..
hi my friend , thanks for sharing your knowledge , on r66 socket i just blow out a resistor , where can i find that part ?? could you advice some site to buy this resistor ???
Great video. Thanks. When you reflowed the joints on the tube sockets, did you first remove all the old solder? It wasn't clear in the video. I have a PC30 that stops sending signal after 40 minutes or so. I am thinking it is temperature related. Any ideas where I should look to fix?
Awesome Job !!! thanks for sharing your Expertise please do more THANKS!!
Thanks, will do!
My Peavey Delta Blues will technically switch over to the dirty channel, but their is no dirt and the volume is incredibly low. Any idea what might be the problem?
I'm surprised you didn't change the other 2 electrolytics, C45 and C46 while you were at it - as long as the thing is on the bench. They are Illinois Caps, they will go eventually.
They are low voltage caps. I usually don't every seem them go bad.
What do the clean channel on these C30's sound like ? Is it Vox-ish or Fender-ish etc ? Thanks for the video :-)
Definitely fenderish.
What is the song and artist at 5:37?
The drummer is awesome and so is the guitar tone.
That’s not a Classic 30 being used is it?
Thanks for video Mr. Tone Pump sir. I have to take apart a PV-30/ JD 30-T (Jack Daniel's model) just to clean the Scratchy pot's with a good cleaner/lubricant. Please anybody let me know if these pot's can be cleaned inside with a pressure solvent. Starting with a can of Deoxit and need all the advice I can get. Thanks all.
thanks, this was a big help to me!
Does Peavey put Illinois Capacitors in their amps on purpose so they'll fail. And then people will have to go out and buy another amp? Not to mention they use an inordinate amount of glue to make it harder to replace them.
With any large company it's usually about the $. Illinois caps were probably the least expensive. If you build 10,000 amps and each cap is $1 cheaper than another better quality cap the $ adds up quickly.
You'd be surprised. I've seen some big name boutique amps using really cheap parts.
All the glue is to protect against vibration. Sometimes I've seen a need for it, but most of the time it's just a pain when you have to work on something.
My power tubes and preamp tubes on my classic 30 wont glow up thus no sound but the power light is on. Any advice?
The first and easiest thing to check would be the effects loop. Plug a patch cord from the send to the return (or preamp out to power amp in, I forgot how it's labeled) If you have sound then the switching portion of the power amp in jack needs to be cleaned.
If that doesn't work it's probably one or more of the little wire jumpers between the boards that needs to be fixed.
@TonePumpAmps Bit late to the video, if you see this, I'm curious about how much a job like in this video would cost, thanks
Nice work. Thanks very much for sharing. very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Do you remove the old soldering before resoldering the tube sockets?
I usually just add a bit of new solder to what's there. If there is to much solder already there I'll remove most of it.
Great job, thanks for sharing I learned a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks. Very helpful.
For the life of me, I can't understand why, on earth, Peavey used that bare, rigid wire to connect the 3 circuit boards? Why wouldn't they simply use a nice, flexible, stranded conductor with insulation? Certainly, it couldn't have saved THAT much money, right? A couple fractions of a penny per amp, maybe? If their reasoning was "structural", well, they could've just beefed up those "L" brackets that attach to the boards. I'm also surprised to have never seen anyone mod these amps and do away with those bare, rigid jumpers. Yes, it'd be a big job, but one that I'd think would be worth the effort, especially if you're the type to make amp mods and plan on being in and out of there a bunch. FWIW, I currently own a "Classic 30" and a "Classic 20". Nice video, btw.
Thank you for showing us the insides of this Peavey amp -
Now that I can see how crap these amps are made, it re confirms to me to buy a quality hand made amp with old school technology even if it costs double.....Cheers.....
They are fine if you buy new and use them for 10 yrs and then sell on. If you are buying one amp forever then point to point custom build is the way to go.
Got a twenty yr old one. Still rocking but it has had an easy life in a bedroom mostly…
Thank you!
You bet!
The S is silent in Illinois.
What a POS design . I refuse most of them . Plus I would charge double or triple rate if customer insist on fix . Worst amps on the planet . 100% Pure worthless JUNK .
A folding circuit board
please, make video with popular «blue» (blueguitar, steve ahola) mods to peavey classic 30 and 50, please. you can find the schematics and notes here: www.blueguitar.net/
What a ratty designed chassis and boards?
Just a suggestion, please make sure you speak loud enough to be heard and please turn down the occasional load music [ or better yet NO loud music] hard to hear the technical talk and then blown out of my chair by unexpected music bursts. Thanks, good videos otherwise.