I had a 2011 Equinox that I had GM rebuilt the top half on it since it had the oil consumption issue. I now have a 2017 Equinox and for the PVC issue, I just picked up a new oil filler cap from Amazon: ACDelco GM Original Equipment FC219 Engine Oil Filler Cap , Black That will open up if the pressure gets too much.
I'm doing this process on my 2013 with about 127,000 on it. I've cleaned the port and fashioned a system where I can clean it regularly. Also I used the high milage seafoam. I'm going to get the universal pcv and do the oil cap next. Thank you so much brother!Sincerest prayers in Jesus's name, Amen!👍🙏🏼🇺🇸❤
Glad to hear the Seafoam worked for you Luke. Hopefully it will work for a long time. Sorry to hear about the all day Dr. visits, and hoping you all are doing well.
Watched the videos for the Equinox. My buddy bought one of these a couple of months ago with 113K on it. Will be drilling the access hole on the manifold cover and keeping an eye on it. Great videos. Thanks. By the way - he was having huge oil puddles under the car but only when sitting at idle. Got underneath and saw a solid line going from the top of the oil pan up towards the top of the engine. It was leaking badly from the point it met the pan. My mechanic replaced the line and all is well. Keep an eye on that.
It is still working great. Now I am adding about a quart between oil changes. I do the Seafoam treatment at every oil change just to keep it cleaned out.
I did do the PCV conversion through the oil filler cap and did connect it to the brake booster line. Ran Seafoam for 120 miles in the crankcase after the conversion. Then changed the oil, used Mobil 1, drove 400 miles trip. Was astonished it used very little oil if any. Dip stick showed it was still full the next morning after the trip. Relieving the crankcase pressure with this conversion reduced the crankcase pressure which was pushing it through the piston rings causing a lot of burning oil. I thought it would still use some oil with the conversion but am pleasantly surprised. 2015 equinox with 66,750 miles. Best part I don't have to worry about the rear main seal being pushed out due to excessive crankcase pressure with this conversion. The tiny pcv hole clean out procedure is not necessary as it is only a temporary fix. Do the oil cap PCV conversion and your good.
Yeah, I wish I wouldn't have bothered with the pcv hole. It was a waste of time, just should have did the PCV cap mod to start with. I am using virtually no oil between changes now. So far this has been a dependable vehicle which I am pretty satisfied with. Just not the most exciting or best looking car around, but does the job of basic transportation ok.
I recently had a 2.4 ecotec apart for timing chain and bent valves. Im assuming it had oil consumption problems based on that outcome. With the head off while i was waiting for parts i poured marvel mystery oil over the top of each carboned up piston. It sat there for 2 days before it started to leak past the rings, so I dumped more on. this time it all drained down in a day, so I did it again and now after about an hour it would leak through the rings. I kept going, rotating the engine a bit each time and wiping the carbon off the cylinder walls each time. I think this was a good thing- un-stuck and de-carboned the rings. The engine runs fine now, but too soon to know about oil consumption.
I use marvel mystery oil in my gas tank every other fill up .works great and keeps everything clean. Know more problems with the oil disappearing. 247.078 miles and still go.
Here is a follow-up. The 1st 3000 miles after the repair it did consume about 2 quarts of oil. After an oil change it doesn't seem to be consuming any.
I’ve modded 3 so far. I add a PCV valve bypassing the orifice which goes through a catch can, then tapped into the brake booster line for vacuum. Oil consumption dropped down to 1qt/5K. No more moisture problems on the fresh air side. Just like you said, it’s the fix for this engine
I would continue to add 4-5 ounces of seafoam to a warm crankcase and let the engine idle for 10 mins + or - before you do your oil change. Help to keep passages and rings free. I agree with you on the 3000ish mile oil changes. Modern engines tighter tolerances and increased heat (by product of power production) definitely seems to increase the likelihood of oil coking causing a plethora of problems. Hoping y'all are doing well!
This last time, I added half a bottle of seafoam to the crankcase 500 miles before the oil change. Thinking about it now, 500 miles was probably too long. I then just before changing it, ran the other half of the bottle through the vacuum line. Hopefully it keeps working.
@@lukeFugate I don't like to drive very far at all with seafoam in the crankcase due to the decreased lubricity and load value of the oil. I've seen too many engines wipe a main or rod bearing. Obviously if it's still going good at this point you're fine. I use the 1 ounce per quart as a maintenance cleaner especially for high mileage
I have a 2012 just like that one, I had the timing chain replaced already. Still burning or using oil like you said my question now is how did you seal the hole after you drilled a hole to clean it out in the center. I think what you have done is what I need to do, and boy I hope it works. Things are tight here. Thanks
I used a screw to plug the hole. Seems to have worked. I haven't cleaned it out again. I think the PCV valve I added to the oil cap and the Seafoam treatment has mine fixed now. I don’t use any oil between changes now. Here is a link to the video detailing the PCV mod. ruclips.net/video/LtEqImQuMTk/видео.html
Thanks for your video. Did you fabricate your oil cap or is there a vented oil cap that can be purchased at an auto supply store? If so what is the part number and brand?
It is the original cap that came on the car. I just drilled it out and added the generic PCV valve to it. I'm not even sure what vehicle the PCV is intended for. It was just one that was on the endcap in Autozone. I just picked it because it was the size to fit in the cap and had threads.
Thanks, Luke, for posting this video.I have a 15' Equinox and just did thousands of dollars worth of timing chain oil pump, etc. on it. There is still a ton of oil usage! I am definitely going to do your PCV fix, but what generic pcv valve did you use, what size hose, etc. if you dont mind sharing that with me? Im in IN and found your video crucially important, brother, so thank you. I pray you are doing well, I know what it's like to have health problems. I used to fix all my vehicle issues, but thats just not possible anymore. This fix seems within my abilities tho, so I will certainly be giving it a try. I cant thank you enough. God bless you bud! Eric
I can't remember a part number or anything for the pcv. It was one that was on the endcap at Autozone. I just looked at them until I found one that looked like it would fit the cap and the hose. The hose was either 11/32 or half inch. I think you could make either work. You also need a T of the same size to split the brake booster hose. It is still holding up well, and I don't have to add any oil between changes. I think the Seafoam cleaning helps free up the rings to help stop the blowby.
Do ya think that just doing the oil cap fix would work? On my car, I bought it with a missing cat converter as well. A used car lot sold it with a pipe fix to a missing converter. Not sure if that would have anything to do with the low accelerating. Thank you for your feedback.
The oil cap could help. I would recommend it, but the oil burning is likely the rings sticking. the Seafoam treatment should help. As far as low acceleration, I think these are just way too under powered. Mine runs great, but it is a real dog off the line. The missing converter should help out with power a little. For the size of the vehicle, the engine is just too small.
On my "2014 Chevy equinox 2.4....260,000 miles" Ive done the PCV valve clean out tip with drilling into the intake manifold. I also cleaned off a bunch of metal shavings and gunk off of the vvt solenoids. It has helped tremendously with the vehicle going into limp mode. I'm thinking about doing this trick with the oil cap but I wanna ask you if it affects the brakes since your splicing into the booster?
It won't affect the brakes as long as you splice into the line before the check valve. You should put the t in between the vacuum port on the intake and the check valve. This way the check valve won't allow the line to vent air into the booster.
I have flushed a high mileage engine by draining the oil, putting new filter on the 5 quarts of kerosene. Let it idle 20 minutes the refill with new oil and new filter. Pulls alot os sludge out..
I have heard that and diesel as well working. I might try that on my trencher. It's burning oil, but I think it has just way too many hours on it. Worth a try though.
I’m definitely thinking of doing a seafoam treatment on my 2.4 equinox in about a week or two, it’s got about 175k miles on it so hopefully the treatment doesn’t mess anything up, however I find it a hassle to constantly be topping off my oil so I think I’ll take my chances.
I used a product called EPR which I ran through our terrain 2.4L and I was certain I fixed the oil burning, but it returned. It started out burning for a few hundred, then stopped alot, like you observed. Do you think the PVC valve repair also helps with stopping oil burning? Great information, I'm going this route next!!!
I think the PCV valve helps a lot. I should have tried one thing at a time to be sure which fixed the problem. I was afraid of blowing out the rear main, so I didn't want to wait to put in the PCV.
@@lukeFugate I'm hopeful, as this oil consumption and top side engine pressure will decrease. My air plenum had a bunch of water in it and that pcv tube. They say to change the loop design of the hard plastic tube to the plenum as it can hold water. It holds alot. Going to rubber tube short loop.
Man just worked on mine the last couple of days.. my 2011 used 4qt of oil every tank for the last year, saw this and hey it worked so far at 200 miles I am changing the oil today.. my issue was I did a pcv cap ad and heat soak, it worked, smoked like crazy for 20 min idle and 10 mi drive.. well yesterday after being reluctant I did the drill and clean on the intake.. was plugged and blocked and after the before and after test of the plugging off the original breather elbow the loud whistle appeared after, this tells my the internal is now working.. great I thought, well with both PCVs now working it whistles while at idle and low speeds. This motor had so much blowby but none now.. my question is did you experience this and what you done with yours if so?. Myself I believe the engine runs great but there is evidently too much blow by for the original pin hole pcv so plug the original up with so high temp RTV and say heck with it?.. that is my thought, wouldn't mind hearing your opinion.. and thanks this video help 110% man..
Well after looking outside I thought about the way the system was working and what causes the whistle to work while testing.. after considering filling the pin hole with rtv I opted to remove the elbow at breather box and run a test hose, no elbow.. this worked so far.. let it warm up and if it continues to run ok with no whistling I will thread a hose barb in air box and permanently fix it there. The rtv could had worked plus reopened with a wire but probably not best.. I would guess both are working however I got a metal threaded pcv and install in the cap.. the rattle is kind of annoying but it's working fine now and lots fixed.. thanks again
Mine doesn't whistle, not that I noticed anyway. I'm not sure it even needs the pinhole anymore with the PCV in the cap. Sounds like you got it figured out though.
Great video but did you pull the spark plugs out and put some seafoam into each cylinder? Or did you simply do the vacuum line and put into the main crank case (through the oil fill spot?)
I did not remove the plugs. I just did the crankcase and vacuum lines treatment. It is still doing fine now by the way, oil use is about a half quart in 1500 miles. Very acceptable to me.
I use bg 44k engine treatment, and the gas additive for my gdi engine, and it keeps it clean. The stuff costs a lot, but i don't worry about carbon build up on the valve's, and then oil being used. I have a kia soul 2019, it has very low miles, but i know what happens with these engine's. I bought the 1.6 litre, because the 2.0 and 2.4 are known to grenade, they even have a class action lawsuit over it. I also still have the ten year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty that came with it, and i doubt that i will hit 100,000 miles by then. I have an o5 ranger, and am gonna use the bg 44k, or the liquid molly on it, because it has 127,000 miles on it. My daddy passed away and i inherited it. It hasn't been using oil, but it sat awhile, because i have been changing all the brake hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, rotors, fuel filter, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings and links, wheel bearings, trans filter, power steering lines, thermostat, and will be doing the fuel pump as well. The truck was originally from South Carolina, and has minimal rust up here in Michigan. I figure this truck is nearly twenty year's old, so i want everything that can leave me stranded fixed. I plan on pulling the bed to coat the frame, and to change the fuel pump easier. I feel like the way the car price's are, better to fix what you have with good parts, and keep on driving. I buy genuine ford parts for anything electrical, like wheel sensors, the fuel pump, and any emissions stuff, because i don't like doing thing's twice in six month's or less. The after market stuff is junk no matter where you get it, at least what i have learned by being burned a few time's, whereas the oem stuff, i just don't have the problems. It may cost more, but better than doing it over every six month's. I have other thing's to do to it as well, but i feel that it will be worth it in the end. Sentiment goes a ways to with fixing up this truck, because it's nothing special, but my daddy drove it two year's, but not much cuz he had been on dialysis. I think you were smart fixing this chevy up, and figuring out how to save the engine. I agree with checking the oil often, because you just don't know when something is gonna start going bad. I always park in my garage and check the floor for any leaks, because it could be a little drip that could later be a disaster. I use the seafoam as well, but i have seen the liquid molly, and the bg44k both do wonders to, thought i would throw these out there since you asked about other product's, and i use the berryman b-12 as well, it work's good to for cleaning the engine up. I am nearly 53, and am a female, was fixing stuff with my daddy and grandpa as a kid, because my brother is a few years younger than me, so i was the project helper, and i learned a lot, and like fixing stuff now. G-d bless, and thanks for the update.
Thank you for the information. I understand wanting to fix up the Ranger. My 68 Chevy (Ol' Green) was My Grandpas, then my Dads, so it means a lot to me.
Yup they changed mine at 119k.. it had now done it started again at about 60k on new engine.. gm rebuilt first, then replaced.. still went junk quick lol.. they will fix it at low miles tho.. he would have to get it back to stock pcv before taking it in for consumption tests
So my 10 equinox had 219 before I did the timing chain it didn't use any oil or very little if it did ...now that I have done the chain it is using oil like crazy and it's making me crazy
On these engines that use the low tension piston rings, don't let your oil changes go over 5 thousand miles. Ppl are being told they can go as much as 20 thousand miles, don't do that. What happens is the oil ring will get gunked up over time and will freeze in place. Sometimes you can undo this problem by pouring B-12 Berrymans into each spark plug hole on top of each piston. Allow it to sit for a day.. Turn the engine over, and repeat the B-12 process again and give it a day to soak. Now, add a triple dose of the Berrymans to the crankcase, that would be three ounces per quart of oil. So, on a 5 qrt engine you would add 15 oz of B-12 Berrymans. Start the engine and do not rev it.. let it idle for 30 minutes, and do an oil change immediately. Do not drive the car before changing the oil!!! Now, you've changed the oil, add an ounce of Berrymans B-12 per quart of oil, and drive the vehicle normally for 3 thousand and change the oil. You can substitute Seafoam for the B-12 Berrymans but it isn't as aggressive at removing varnish and gummed up oil.
Yeah, I don't like the 10 or 20 thousand mile oil changes that people do. Oil is relatively cheap. I still do 3000 mile oil changes on all my vehicles. I use the cheap Walmart oil in this one and for about $25 and 30 minutes of my time it is changed. When I first got it, I was not too hopeful that the Seafoam would work and I planned on just getting used oil from service stations and run through it. After all I got the car for free and from what people were saying about them, I didn't expect it to last very long. Now that I have been changing it regularly every 3000 and putting in a can of Seafoam 300 miles before the change, I now have it so it uses less than half a quart between changes. To me that is a satisfactory result. I may switch to the Berryman this next time, because it is a better product. You say do not drive it after adding the B-12? I guess it must be much stronger than Seafoam then. Thanks for the info.
@@lukeFugate I bought my daughter a brand new Toyota Camry Nightshade.. They have the low tension rings and direct injection which tends to carbon up over time. Every five thousand miles, the car will illuminate the service required warning. She was taking it to Toyota for the oil changes because the first three were no charge. She went for the second oil change when the car turned over 10K miles.. It was at that time, she was instructed by the Toyota employee that she didn't need to change the oil every five thousand mile, but should change it every 10 thousand. My daughter asked the Toyota employee, if that were true, why does the service light come on every five thousand and the owners manual states the recommended oil change occur at 5 thousand. They claimed that was only for cars that were being driven under harsh conditions. I told my daughter to go for the final oil change at 15k and after that to bring it to me every time the service light pops up. She asked me why the dealership would give this advise to their customers. I said. Simple..Because, all they care about is that your drivetrain last 60k, because they don't want your car to last.. They want to sell you another one. It the same with the transmission fluid. No dipstick, and your told it's "lifetime fluid." Again, all they are interested in is your new car making it past 60k.
For all those still having issues Chevy/gmc lost a lawsuit in 2020 and they have 7 years and 6 months to fix the pistons and piston rings which is the leading cause of the over consumption of oil. Apart of the lawsuit they have to fix it free of charge to the owner.
Good news, my daughter just bought a 2015 with a 133000 miles. Where's the best info on the lawsuit? Going to check the blowby now and do the PCV trick, @lukeFugate: so I need to plug the other end of the PCV into the brake booster? What's the purpose of that? Does the PCV need suction to work?
@@DeanLingley Hey Dean! You can find it here static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171426-9999.pdf It true corp fashion though I took it into the Chevy dealer where I am but they said that for the lawsuit warranty to be covered the previous owner needs to have on the records made mention of the over consumption of oil for it to apply or the car needs to be at 120,000 miles. Hope your previous owner made mention of it on the service notes!
Do you have any information on this lawsuit, and how I would follow up with it? And would my 2014 Chevy Equinox be included in this? I have had a full engine replacement, and reoccurring issues involved with overconsumption of oil. Multiple Solenoid replacements, camshaft position sensor replacements, along with some other issues. It's good at least that I've found this video and seen what could be the primary culprit of all these issues i've been having. It's a shame that it's a 2014 vehicle and I have had to have this much done to it in so little time since I bought it back in 2020.
GM makes a vented oil cap. And I guess I don't understand you're trying to relieve the pressure from the crankcase and you're hosing it back into the crankcase😂
The vented oil cap does help, but doesn't resolve the issue. In this case I am relieving the crankcase pressure by using engine vacuum. It is not hosing into the crankcase. It is going into the brake booster line which is hooked to the intake manifold. That is how all car engines have been since 1961. GM decided they would reinvent a system which has worked great for 63 years and failed horribly. In this case it works great. I don't add any oil between changes now. I still do the Seafoam cleaning every oil change as well just to keep the rings free.
@@lukeFugate First of all thanks for the vid! Kind of wondering about the routing back to intake question too, do you have to have it going back into the intake manifold? What if you just use the vented oil cap? What is the benefit of routing back into the intake instead of just venting? A little better gas mileage? Won't run right with venting? Or environmental?
That was what I did when I first got the car. It seemed to help(Made me feel better anyway)I had no way of checking blow by with the oil cap on though. It did seem to let out little whifts of smoke from around the cap though.
Great videos, I'm gonna do this to my daughters 2014 Equinox with 160k. It had ZERO issues with oil consumption until she moved from a more rural area to a city last September and suddenly started using a quart òf oil or more every couple hundred miles. She can't keep up with the consumption so it's parked with no oil reading on the dip stick. We were scratching our heads until I saw your vids..I bet the city driving excellerated that hole clogging! It is also leaking oil from the bottom somewhere now. Anyway, thanks to your video, I am going to clean out that hole, put a PCV valve in the fill cap, and give it the sea foam treatment for her. And hope the rear main seal isn't blown out. Thanks! Thanks to
I had a 2011 Equinox that I had GM rebuilt the top half on it since it had the oil consumption issue. I now have a 2017 Equinox and for the PVC issue, I just picked up a new oil filler cap from Amazon: ACDelco GM Original Equipment FC219 Engine Oil Filler Cap , Black That will open up if the pressure gets too much.
I'm doing this process on my 2013 with about 127,000 on it. I've cleaned the port and fashioned a system where I can clean it regularly. Also I used the high milage seafoam. I'm going to get the universal pcv and do the oil cap next. Thank you so much brother!Sincerest prayers in Jesus's name, Amen!👍🙏🏼🇺🇸❤
It still works great. I think it used a half quart in the last oil change, so I call it a success.
Glad to hear the Seafoam worked for you Luke. Hopefully it will work for a long time. Sorry to hear about the all day Dr. visits, and hoping you all are doing well.
Yes, I think it is fixed. Seems to do great for now. We are doing ok, just normal doctor visits, spaced out just enough to take up the day lol.
Watched the videos for the Equinox. My buddy bought one of these a couple of months ago with 113K on it. Will be drilling the access hole on the manifold cover and keeping an eye on it. Great videos. Thanks. By the way - he was having huge oil puddles under the car but only when sitting at idle. Got underneath and saw a solid line going from the top of the oil pan up towards the top of the engine. It was leaking badly from the point it met the pan. My mechanic replaced the line and all is well. Keep an eye on that.
Thanks so much, I will keep an eye on that for sure. Now that I know it can be a problem.
Will have to try this. My girlfriends Equinox goes through oil like something crazy. Never see any leaks anywhere though.
Equinoxes are horrible about using a lot of oil, I know!😫
It is still working great. Now I am adding about a quart between oil changes. I do the Seafoam treatment at every oil change just to keep it cleaned out.
I did do the PCV conversion through the oil filler cap and did connect it to the brake booster line. Ran Seafoam for 120 miles in the crankcase after the conversion. Then changed the oil, used Mobil 1, drove 400 miles trip. Was astonished it used very little oil if any. Dip stick showed it was still full the next morning after the trip. Relieving the crankcase pressure with this conversion reduced the crankcase pressure which was pushing it through the piston rings causing a lot of burning oil. I thought it would still use some oil with the conversion but am pleasantly surprised. 2015 equinox with 66,750 miles. Best part I don't have to worry about the rear main seal being pushed out due to excessive crankcase pressure with this conversion. The tiny pcv hole clean out procedure is not necessary as it is only a temporary fix. Do the oil cap PCV conversion and your good.
Yeah, I wish I wouldn't have bothered with the pcv hole. It was a waste of time, just should have did the PCV cap mod to start with. I am using virtually no oil between changes now. So far this has been a dependable vehicle which I am pretty satisfied with. Just not the most exciting or best looking car around, but does the job of basic transportation ok.
I recently had a 2.4 ecotec apart for timing chain and bent valves. Im assuming it had oil consumption problems based on that outcome. With the head off while i was waiting for parts i poured marvel mystery oil over the top of each carboned up piston. It sat there for 2 days before it started to leak past the rings, so I dumped more on. this time it all drained down in a day, so I did it again and now after about an hour it would leak through the rings. I kept going, rotating the engine a bit each time and wiping the carbon off the cylinder walls each time. I think this was a good thing- un-stuck and de-carboned the rings. The engine runs fine now, but too soon to know about oil consumption.
Sounds like it did a number on the carbon. I'll probably try MMO on this one if it starts burning oil again.
I use marvel mystery oil in my gas tank every other fill up .works great and keeps everything clean. Know more problems with the oil disappearing. 247.078 miles and still go.
Here is a follow-up. The 1st 3000 miles after the repair it did consume about 2 quarts of oil. After an oil change it doesn't seem to be consuming any.
I’ve modded 3 so far. I add a PCV valve bypassing the orifice which goes through a catch can, then tapped into the brake booster line for vacuum. Oil consumption dropped down to 1qt/5K. No more moisture problems on the fresh air side. Just like you said, it’s the fix for this engine
Yes it seems to be the solution. I'm very happy with this car now.
Glad to hear that your treatment worked plenty well enough for you. Sure is a lot cheaper and easier than dropping a new motor in it!
And, come think of it, wishing you a very happy Thanksgiving.
Yes, very satisfied with the results so far.
Happy Thanksgiving to you as well!
Thanks!
I would continue to add 4-5 ounces of seafoam to a warm crankcase and let the engine idle for 10 mins + or - before you do your oil change. Help to keep passages and rings free. I agree with you on the 3000ish mile oil changes. Modern engines tighter tolerances and increased heat (by product of power production) definitely seems to increase the likelihood of oil coking causing a plethora of problems. Hoping y'all are doing well!
This last time, I added half a bottle of seafoam to the crankcase 500 miles before the oil change. Thinking about it now, 500 miles was probably too long. I then just before changing it, ran the other half of the bottle through the vacuum line. Hopefully it keeps working.
@@lukeFugate I don't like to drive very far at all with seafoam in the crankcase due to the decreased lubricity and load value of the oil. I've seen too many engines wipe a main or rod bearing. Obviously if it's still going good at this point you're fine. I use the 1 ounce per quart as a maintenance cleaner especially for high mileage
Thank You Luke for the Video, but I did not see where you connected your PCV with? I appreciate any details.
It is hooked into the brake booster line. It has to go between the intake and the check valve. I just cut the line and T'd into it for the PCV line.
I have a 2012 just like that one, I had the timing chain replaced already. Still burning or using oil like you said my question now is how did you seal the hole after you drilled a hole to clean it out in the center. I think what you have done is what I need to do, and boy I hope it works. Things are tight here. Thanks
I used a screw to plug the hole. Seems to have worked. I haven't cleaned it out again. I think the PCV valve I added to the oil cap and the Seafoam treatment has mine fixed now. I don’t use any oil between changes now. Here is a link to the video detailing the PCV mod. ruclips.net/video/LtEqImQuMTk/видео.html
Thanks for your video. Did you fabricate your oil cap or is there a vented oil cap that can be purchased at an auto supply store? If so what is the part number and brand?
It is the original cap that came on the car. I just drilled it out and added the generic PCV valve to it. I'm not even sure what vehicle the PCV is intended for. It was just one that was on the endcap in Autozone. I just picked it because it was the size to fit in the cap and had threads.
Thanks, Luke, for posting this video.I have a 15' Equinox and just did thousands of dollars worth of timing chain oil pump, etc. on it. There is still a ton of oil usage! I am definitely going to do your PCV fix, but what generic pcv valve did you use, what size hose, etc. if you dont mind sharing that with me? Im in IN and found your video crucially important, brother, so thank you. I pray you are doing well, I know what it's like to have health problems. I used to fix all my vehicle issues, but thats just not possible anymore. This fix seems within my abilities tho, so I will certainly be giving it a try. I cant thank you enough. God bless you bud!
Eric
I can't remember a part number or anything for the pcv. It was one that was on the endcap at Autozone. I just looked at them until I found one that looked like it would fit the cap and the hose. The hose was either 11/32 or half inch. I think you could make either work. You also need a T of the same size to split the brake booster hose. It is still holding up well, and I don't have to add any oil between changes. I think the Seafoam cleaning helps free up the rings to help stop the blowby.
Do ya think that just doing the oil cap fix would work? On my car, I bought it with a missing cat converter as well. A used car lot sold it with a pipe fix to a missing converter. Not sure if that would have anything to do with the low accelerating. Thank you for your feedback.
The oil cap could help. I would recommend it, but the oil burning is likely the rings sticking. the Seafoam treatment should help. As far as low acceleration, I think these are just way too under powered. Mine runs great, but it is a real dog off the line. The missing converter should help out with power a little. For the size of the vehicle, the engine is just too small.
On my "2014 Chevy equinox 2.4....260,000 miles" Ive done the PCV valve clean out tip with drilling into the intake manifold. I also cleaned off a bunch of metal shavings and gunk off of the vvt solenoids. It has helped tremendously with the vehicle going into limp mode. I'm thinking about doing this trick with the oil cap but I wanna ask you if it affects the brakes since your splicing into the booster?
It won't affect the brakes as long as you splice into the line before the check valve. You should put the t in between the vacuum port on the intake and the check valve. This way the check valve won't allow the line to vent air into the booster.
@@lukeFugate can you add a pic of this, just to make sure I get it in the right place too?
@@DeanLingley I'll try to make an updated video showing the details. I need to do another update anyway because the oil usage is basically none now.
I have flushed a high mileage engine by draining the oil, putting new filter on the 5 quarts of kerosene. Let it idle 20 minutes the refill with new oil and new filter. Pulls alot os sludge out..
I have heard that and diesel as well working. I might try that on my trencher. It's burning oil, but I think it has just way too many hours on it. Worth a try though.
I’m definitely thinking of doing a seafoam treatment on my 2.4 equinox in about a week or two, it’s got about 175k miles on it so hopefully the treatment doesn’t mess anything up, however I find it a hassle to constantly be topping off my oil so I think I’ll take my chances.
Worth a try. Worked for me.
I used a product called EPR which I ran through our terrain 2.4L and I was certain I fixed the oil burning, but it returned. It started out burning for a few hundred, then stopped alot, like you observed. Do you think the PVC valve repair also helps with stopping oil burning? Great information, I'm going this route next!!!
I think the PCV valve helps a lot. I should have tried one thing at a time to be sure which fixed the problem. I was afraid of blowing out the rear main, so I didn't want to wait to put in the PCV.
@@lukeFugate I'm hopeful, as this oil consumption and top side engine pressure will decrease. My air plenum had a bunch of water in it and that pcv tube. They say to change the loop design of the hard plastic tube to the plenum as it can hold water. It holds alot. Going to rubber tube short loop.
Did you also try the FC219 vented oil cap?
@@tqlla I did install that vented cap also
Cleaning the throttle body and mass air flow sensor will help the hill climbing.
Thanks, I'll try that.
I’m going to try it i’m hoping it helps 👍🏼
Good luck. Seems to be still working for me.
Where can you get the seafoam your talking about? Does O'Reilly's carry it?
I think they do.
Man just worked on mine the last couple of days.. my 2011 used 4qt of oil every tank for the last year, saw this and hey it worked so far at 200 miles I am changing the oil today.. my issue was I did a pcv cap ad and heat soak, it worked, smoked like crazy for 20 min idle and 10 mi drive.. well yesterday after being reluctant I did the drill and clean on the intake.. was plugged and blocked and after the before and after test of the plugging off the original breather elbow the loud whistle appeared after, this tells my the internal is now working.. great I thought, well with both PCVs now working it whistles while at idle and low speeds. This motor had so much blowby but none now.. my question is did you experience this and what you done with yours if so?. Myself I believe the engine runs great but there is evidently too much blow by for the original pin hole pcv so plug the original up with so high temp RTV and say heck with it?.. that is my thought, wouldn't mind hearing your opinion.. and thanks this video help 110% man..
Well after looking outside I thought about the way the system was working and what causes the whistle to work while testing.. after considering filling the pin hole with rtv I opted to remove the elbow at breather box and run a test hose, no elbow.. this worked so far.. let it warm up and if it continues to run ok with no whistling I will thread a hose barb in air box and permanently fix it there. The rtv could had worked plus reopened with a wire but probably not best.. I would guess both are working however I got a metal threaded pcv and install in the cap.. the rattle is kind of annoying but it's working fine now and lots fixed.. thanks again
Mine doesn't whistle, not that I noticed anyway. I'm not sure it even needs the pinhole anymore with the PCV in the cap. Sounds like you got it figured out though.
Do you have the video for the pcv valve you made?
Yes, I just made one here is a link. ruclips.net/video/LtEqImQuMTk/видео.html
Good day. Do you use 5w-30 oil or something thicker?
I use the 5w-30. It is getting better and better now. Hardly loses any oil between changes now.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Great video but did you pull the spark plugs out and put some seafoam into each cylinder? Or did you simply do the vacuum line and put into the main crank case (through the oil fill spot?)
I did not remove the plugs. I just did the crankcase and vacuum lines treatment. It is still doing fine now by the way, oil use is about a half quart in 1500 miles. Very acceptable to me.
Хорошо бы еще видео про подключение с другой стороны, спасибо!
Я не понимаю, обратная сторона чего?
Sounds like you are near Elizabethtown. Im in bowlimg green. Any chance i can get u to play with a malibu?
I'm over near Hazard actually. Might be a little far away for you.
I use bg 44k engine treatment, and the gas additive for my gdi engine, and it keeps it clean. The stuff costs a lot, but i don't worry about carbon build up on the valve's, and then oil being used. I have a kia soul 2019, it has very low miles, but i know what happens with these engine's. I bought the 1.6 litre, because the 2.0 and 2.4 are known to grenade, they even have a class action lawsuit over it. I also still have the ten year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty that came with it, and i doubt that i will hit 100,000 miles by then. I have an o5 ranger, and am gonna use the bg 44k, or the liquid molly on it, because it has 127,000 miles on it. My daddy passed away and i inherited it. It hasn't been using oil, but it sat awhile, because i have been changing all the brake hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, rotors, fuel filter, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings and links, wheel bearings, trans filter, power steering lines, thermostat, and will be doing the fuel pump as well. The truck was originally from South Carolina, and has minimal rust up here in Michigan. I figure this truck is nearly twenty year's old, so i want everything that can leave me stranded fixed. I plan on pulling the bed to coat the frame, and to change the fuel pump easier. I feel like the way the car price's are, better to fix what you have with good parts, and keep on driving. I buy genuine ford parts for anything electrical, like wheel sensors, the fuel pump, and any emissions stuff, because i don't like doing thing's twice in six month's or less. The after market stuff is junk no matter where you get it, at least what i have learned by being burned a few time's, whereas the oem stuff, i just don't have the problems. It may cost more, but better than doing it over every six month's. I have other thing's to do to it as well, but i feel that it will be worth it in the end. Sentiment goes a ways to with fixing up this truck, because it's nothing special, but my daddy drove it two year's, but not much cuz he had been on dialysis. I think you were smart fixing this chevy up, and figuring out how to save the engine. I agree with checking the oil often, because you just don't know when something is gonna start going bad. I always park in my garage and check the floor for any leaks, because it could be a little drip that could later be a disaster. I use the seafoam as well, but i have seen the liquid molly, and the bg44k both do wonders to, thought i would throw these out there since you asked about other product's, and i use the berryman b-12 as well, it work's good to for cleaning the engine up. I am nearly 53, and am a female, was fixing stuff with my daddy and grandpa as a kid, because my brother is a few years younger than me, so i was the project helper, and i learned a lot, and like fixing stuff now. G-d bless, and thanks for the update.
Thank you for the information. I understand wanting to fix up the Ranger. My 68 Chevy (Ol' Green) was My Grandpas, then my Dads, so it means a lot to me.
Yup they changed mine at 119k.. it had now done it started again at about 60k on new engine.. gm rebuilt first, then replaced.. still went junk quick lol.. they will fix it at low miles tho.. he would have to get it back to stock pcv before taking it in for consumption tests
Thanks for your comment, I just have a couple questions. What is bg44 and liquid Molly? I haven't seen these products available here. Thanks so much!
Isnt there a vented oil cap available for this engine?
Yes there is. It would help with keeping the rear main from blowing out. It still wouldn't allow it to have a real pcv valve though.
So my 10 equinox had 219 before I did the timing chain it didn't use any oil or very little if it did ...now that I have done the chain it is using oil like crazy and it's making me crazy
Could it be leaking out somewhere? Have you noticed any puddles or wetness on the underside? Seems strange to go from no oil use to that very quickly.
On these engines that use the low tension piston rings, don't let your oil changes go over 5 thousand miles. Ppl are being told they can go as much as 20 thousand miles, don't do that. What happens is the oil ring will get gunked up over time and will freeze in place. Sometimes you can undo this problem by pouring B-12 Berrymans into each spark plug hole on top of each piston. Allow it to sit for a day.. Turn the engine over, and repeat the B-12 process again and give it a day to soak. Now, add a triple dose of the Berrymans to the crankcase, that would be three ounces per quart of oil. So, on a 5 qrt engine you would add 15 oz of B-12 Berrymans. Start the engine and do not rev it.. let it idle for 30 minutes, and do an oil change immediately. Do not drive the car before changing the oil!!! Now, you've changed the oil, add an ounce of Berrymans B-12 per quart of oil, and drive the vehicle normally for 3 thousand and change the oil. You can substitute Seafoam for the B-12 Berrymans but it isn't as aggressive at removing varnish and gummed up oil.
Yeah, I don't like the 10 or 20 thousand mile oil changes that people do. Oil is relatively cheap. I still do 3000 mile oil changes on all my vehicles. I use the cheap Walmart oil in this one and for about $25 and 30 minutes of my time it is changed. When I first got it, I was not too hopeful that the Seafoam would work and I planned on just getting used oil from service stations and run through it. After all I got the car for free and from what people were saying about them, I didn't expect it to last very long.
Now that I have been changing it regularly every 3000 and putting in a can of Seafoam 300 miles before the change, I now have it so it uses less than half a quart between changes. To me that is a satisfactory result. I may switch to the Berryman this next time, because it is a better product. You say do not drive it after adding the B-12? I guess it must be much stronger than Seafoam then. Thanks for the info.
@@lukeFugate I bought my daughter a brand new Toyota Camry Nightshade.. They have the low tension rings and direct injection which tends to carbon up over time. Every five thousand miles, the car will illuminate the service required warning. She was taking it to Toyota for the oil changes because the first three were no charge. She went for the second oil change when the car turned over 10K miles.. It was at that time, she was instructed by the Toyota employee that she didn't need to change the oil every five thousand mile, but should change it every 10 thousand. My daughter asked the Toyota employee, if that were true, why does the service light come on every five thousand and the owners manual states the recommended oil change occur at 5 thousand. They claimed that was only for cars that were being driven under harsh conditions. I told my daughter to go for the final oil change at 15k and after that to bring it to me every time the service light pops up. She asked me why the dealership would give this advise to their customers. I said. Simple..Because, all they care about is that your drivetrain last 60k, because they don't want your car to last.. They want to sell you another one. It the same with the transmission fluid. No dipstick, and your told it's "lifetime fluid." Again, all they are interested in is your new car making it past 60k.
For all those still having issues Chevy/gmc lost a lawsuit in 2020 and they have 7 years and 6 months to fix the pistons and piston rings which is the leading cause of the over consumption of oil. Apart of the lawsuit they have to fix it free of charge to the owner.
Good news, my daughter just bought a 2015 with a 133000 miles. Where's the best info on the lawsuit? Going to check the blowby now and do the PCV trick, @lukeFugate: so I need to plug the other end of the PCV into the brake booster? What's the purpose of that? Does the PCV need suction to work?
@@DeanLingley Hey Dean! You can find it here static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171426-9999.pdf
It true corp fashion though I took it into the Chevy dealer where I am but they said that for the lawsuit warranty to be covered the previous owner needs to have on the records made mention of the over consumption of oil for it to apply or the car needs to be at 120,000 miles.
Hope your previous owner made mention of it on the service notes!
Do you have any information on this lawsuit, and how I would follow up with it? And would my 2014 Chevy Equinox be included in this? I have had a full engine replacement, and reoccurring issues involved with overconsumption of oil. Multiple Solenoid replacements, camshaft position sensor replacements, along with some other issues. It's good at least that I've found this video and seen what could be the primary culprit of all these issues i've been having. It's a shame that it's a 2014 vehicle and I have had to have this much done to it in so little time since I bought it back in 2020.
@@adrianvanluven3420 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171426-9999.pdf
@@DeanLingley static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171426-9999.pdf
I painted my dip stick.
Good idea.
What color?
@@bobbylawson2246 white
@@bobbylawson2246 white
GM makes a vented oil cap. And I guess I don't understand you're trying to relieve the pressure from the crankcase and you're hosing it back into the crankcase😂
The vented oil cap does help, but doesn't resolve the issue. In this case I am relieving the crankcase pressure by using engine vacuum. It is not hosing into the crankcase. It is going into the brake booster line which is hooked to the intake manifold. That is how all car engines have been since 1961. GM decided they would reinvent a system which has worked great for 63 years and failed horribly.
In this case it works great. I don't add any oil between changes now. I still do the Seafoam cleaning every oil change as well just to keep the rings free.
@@lukeFugate First of all thanks for the vid! Kind of wondering about the routing back to intake question too, do you have to have it going back into the intake manifold? What if you just use the vented oil cap? What is the benefit of routing back into the intake instead of just venting? A little better gas mileage? Won't run right with venting? Or environmental?
He mentioned that it’s Tapped into the brake booster line. So it’s getting vaccim from that.
Google how pcv systems work
Just put marvel mystery oil in your gas tank. Every other fill up. Does wonders for cleaning system. Try it you can thank me later.
It would help.
if having more blow by through the oil cap, Does removing the rubber gasket help a little? Thanks
That was what I did when I first got the car. It seemed to help(Made me feel better anyway)I had no way of checking blow by with the oil cap on though. It did seem to let out little whifts of smoke from around the cap though.
@@lukeFugate thank u
Great videos, I'm gonna do this to my daughters 2014 Equinox with 160k. It had ZERO issues with oil consumption until she moved from a more rural area to a city last September and suddenly started using a quart òf oil or more every couple hundred miles.
She can't keep up with the consumption so it's parked with no oil reading on the dip stick.
We were scratching our heads until I saw your vids..I bet the city driving excellerated that hole clogging! It is also leaking oil from the bottom somewhere now.
Anyway, thanks to your video, I am going to clean out that hole, put a PCV valve in the fill cap, and give it the sea foam treatment for her. And hope the rear main seal isn't blown out.
Thanks!
Thanks to