I have used oven cleaner on all the mechanical parts ie. Linkages face plates etc and came up beautifully. No. Damage to any surfaces. No metal removed . You have done an excellent job of the entire project. Wrll done. A good workman.
The worn spot on the are is usually from a piece of flannel sewn on and used for a pin cushion. this machine is ready for the next hundred years! love it!
For the rust, Evaporust works well. I used it on my treadle faceplate and it helped without hurting it. I heard about it from people who restore vintage machines. Thanks for the tip on Simichrome and steel wool. That looks like it did better than metal polish I used, even getting most of those tiny black dots.
I just picked up an antique singer that’s basically identical to this one (although in slightly better condition), and this was so helpful! I was trying to clean it (with literally just water, i know nothing about machine restoration) and noticed this gunk coming up which is apparently old sewing machine oil. I’ll have to pick up some oil and see if that helps, I don’t want to risk damaging such a beautiful machine.
That looks great! I think the gunk on the machine might have been nicotine, but the old oil does build up. It's nice you oiled the moving parts, that machine is very usable and oiling makes it run smoother. My local Walmart carries Singer oil or you can buy it by the gallon on line. 😲 That would be a lifetime supply for me with a lot left over, I go through about 8 ounces a year. Nice job, Larry.
Try your metal polish with a piece of folded newspaper. Drop a pea size blob of metal polish onto the folded newspaper them start rubbing your piece through the polish with downward pressure. The paper will get a metallic sheen and your metal item will be burnished, clean away the excess cleaner with a soft cloth. I used this method to clean parts of horse harness when I was in an army ceremonial unit.
Thanks! Looks great! I want that can of Singer Oil!!!!! I rescue old Singers and get them back to sewing if possible. The place where the black finish is missing may be from where in later years an after market lamp was put close to the body. I have one that has the same problem. Some of these machines were finished in shellack, so caution to anyone who wants to clean one of these up. Be careful with cleaner. I restore mine to working/sewing order so I can’t clean with machine oil. You should have a companion blog where your subscribers can post pics of their finished projects inspired by your videos! I know! So little time! Love your videos!
I stuck my screws and stuff on too a drill and spun it fast while I held some brasso on a rag up to it. The plating is pretty thick and I was carefully so it worked fine. Great video turned out looking nice!
50:50 vinegar and water cleaned up my covers - a 1911 neglected machine. Polish with a toothbrush and solvol autosol then I just buffed up with a drill/ wheel attachment. Worked a treat and is much gentler than wire wool.
I have a few vintage machines and yes the best is sewing machine oil, less chance of damaging the decals, if you go into it further you can use car polish zymol I think it is and metal polish, great job at the restoration
The part of the sewing machine where the paint is missing is more than likely to have been caused by the users wedding ring when lifting and lowering it. My Mum had one just like it. By the way, great work.
The cleaning at 13:38 I did by removing everything and soaking it in kerosene, no scraping necessary, all the goo came off with paper towels, cotton balls and Q-tips.
The clear coat on the old machines is shellac which you probably use plenty of. You can re-do the exterior of the machine by adding more shellac with spirit and french polishing. This will also protect the decals better too.
Sharon, what is meant when you noted "adding more shellac w/spirit & French polishing"? I have methods I use but perhaps yours may work better. Thanks.
the damage in the top arm centre was probably from many years of a pin cloth. a seamstress would pin a folded piece of cloth about 3" wide around the arm just there to have somewhere to stick her pins as she takes them out..you could add an authentic touch and hide that damage by using a pin cloth with a couple pins in it :)
You're right Pam. My mom did this on her treadle machine, which I learned to sew on, only she added a bit of stuffing to it and placed elastic to hold it in place. I've seen this also on some of the machines in my collection of 24 but they're not all Singers. I have a couple of Burnettes, 2 - ¾ sized Kenmores, 2 sergers, and 19 Singers, and a Graybar with a lovely cabinet w/a musical harp design on the supports.. I am blessed to be able to work at a local mission store, evaluate donated sm's and clean/fix those I'm able to so they can bless others. Thanks for the input.
WD-40 would have worked on some of those smaller parts to dislodge the dirt and oil without hurting the finish. I did that to my grandma's machine that she had and got it working great before she passed away.
I found the video on the Singer Featherweight site and it looks like the Zymol Cleaner & Zymol with carnauba Wax is gentle, safe and brings amazing results! Best comment here, thank you for that Dyana
steel wool omg I don't think I can watch. I bought some GoJo. the sewing machine oil is for more delicate because it takes forever to cut through. I use it but have found coconut oil to be effective. going to try the GoJo today. Definitely don't want to use any abrasives on the machine itself. the customer can always buy another plate on eBay. rust converter may work but if so the way through probably just needs to be replaced. GoJo original has mineral oil in the ingredients.
AndyTube made the point that ladies would tie fabric over the "neck" of the machine to stick their pins into. Hence, all the damage you usually see on older machines on the neck from pins sticking into the paint finish.
Thank you for such an informative set of videos. I have just finished a complete restoration of a 1926 treadle machine and table. I am however having trouble getting back the sliding bobbin cover! Any tips please?
Hola, buenos días, le escribo desde Campeche, Campeche, México. Hermosos videos de restauración de máquinas de coser Singer. Muy bien explicado excelente trabajo, ojalá logre hacer lo mismo con mi máquina del año 1918. Lástima que sus videos no estén configurados para ponerles subtítulos en español. Saludos.
I have to assume that the delay in the finale of this series is because of the devistation Hurricane Michel caused in the area south of him. Its going to be quite a while till some areas even have power and other resources restored. Might just ultimately be a good thing that Larry has the machine and its not in a possible disaster zone of the owners. Best Wishes to All
It is. I will probably put out the final video shortly without the reveal. The owner is currently unable to travel north. They are all safe and well, thank goodness. I'm happy to store the machine here until circumstances allow them to travel. Thanks for inquiring.
Somewhat of a wrap up would be a good idea right now. You can do an update & reveal at a future date, from what I have seen on the news, its going to be atleast a couple of months till things settle down somewhat and more till life is back to normal in so many areas, A whack of 2 hurricanes hitting fairly close together will do in the best of us. Even my family member in Maryland had rain and winds worse than they planned for and then the related humidity !!!
wow!!! now this vid really helped me. had no idea that all it takes is stuff i have at home and elbow grease. thanks a million. dumb question? are mineral spirits and mineral oil the same? thanks again.
It's not a dumb question at all. It can get a bit confusing. Mineral Oil is an oil. Mineral Spirits (similar to turpentine and less refined than Naptha) is an oil solvent. Hope this helps.
Hi just wondering about that badge, and specifically the little pins that hold the badge in place, were you able to remove and reinstall the originals? I just picked a machine up and really want to remove and fix up the badge, but don't want to ruin the pins, as I'm guessing they would be impossible to replace (they have fancy little rosette design heads). Cheers,
I really don't do much with the machines. I leave those in place. I assume they are the same kind of rivets that tags are affixed to machinery with and I believe you can purchase them.
Hi. I rescued an old Singer treadle base from a flood recently and I am repurposing the base castings. I have some parts left over that I won't be using, just wondering if you want me to send them your way.
I found one of these old machines on the side of the road someone had dumped, is there a place to buy parts ? oddly these machines are still in use in Cuba if I could take it there I could have is repaired like new for a few dollars.
Hi, i’m from the UK and have owned a Singer 222K, 1956 model, which was inherited, some 35 years ago. Unfortunately, the gentleman who serviced it on a regular basis and who understood the featherweight machines, has now passed away. I need to oil the machine. I have the Singer oil. Do you have a video to show how to do this please?
I'm sorry, I don't do much with the machines themselves, other than clean them. I'm sure if you check around the internet you can find the information you are seeking. There are many very knowledgable Singer affecianados who are happy to share their knowledge. Check out forums, etc. and hopefully you can find what you are looking for. Best of luck to you!
If you are blessed to have a manual, it should show you points to ad oil and it's best to just add a drop to each point. You can also check out "novamontgomery.com" for info also. She specializes in Featherweights and also has cards with photos and instructions on how/where to oil, plus info on lubing the motors. She's an awesome woman and holds classes for doing this in many different places in our southern states. Check out her sight. She also has an online "shop" in which one can order some "FW" parts and carries lube for the motors.
Shirley Ann That is so very kind of you. I did have a manual which simply disappeared from the case. No one, of course, has seen it so, clearly it grew wings and flew off to foreign parts. I shall visit the sites you mention. Thank you, most sincerely, for the information.
Oo no vinegar please. It will pit the metal. We were taught (in the army) when cleaning rifles to use the oil, cloths and repeated cleaning. Soaking in vinegar worked quickly ,but eventually pitted the metal parts (breach blocks etc)
i just bought a singer sewing machine, with sewing table in working condition. It looks like the same model your cleaning. Can you tell me what model that is? Mine has a C serial number and i couldnt really find much on them.
I'm sorry, I don't remember. There are a lot of very astute Singer collectors on-line. I bet if you posted a photo of your machine in a Singer forum you would get many valuable replies. Thanks and best regards.
@@LostMountainRestoration I was able to figure it out. I actually have a G series serial number. I was able to find that its called like a redeye and was built june 1910. I appreciate you taking the time to answer tho. Thank you!
I've heard that the creamy GoJo hand cleaner (pumice free) works amazingly well to clean the bodies of the machines, but tbh I've never tried it (never had an old Singer to restore). Have you had any experience with it?
No. I saw it on a RUclips video, though. I used the oil as it was a recommendation from a viewer. In the past I have just used soap and water or a dilute commercial cleaner.
The problem with the Go Jo is if the top coat is gone you can silver the decals. I know the video on you tube showing the guy using Go Jo. It's not recommended for vintage machines in the interest of preserving the decals.
Hi Sharon, Be that as it may, I've tried everything and found gojo to be the best I've spent over $100 on different cleaners and waxes and with all the scrubbing you have to do you stand a greater chance of messing up your decals and thinning the clearcoat. For that matter I'd say if you hurt decals with gojo it's because they were in serious trouble already. Sure you can go the zymol route and spend big bucks, but at the end of the day you will end up with a better surface with a $3 can of gojo. I've learned this from actual doing, not hearing.
I have bought examples for $10 to $20 in unrestored condition. I have never sold a restored one. Perhaps you could check eBay and see what they have sold for in the past.
Hello , I have Singer sewing machine of 1935. I would like to buy different types of presser foot. Can you suggest me from where I can purchase? Please help me with this.
Hi. I'm restoring my Nannas 110yr old Singer Sewing Machine. I need to strip the paint back ready for respray. Should I write brush it or will that be too harsh?
I am not qualified to comment on the restoration of the machine itself. There are a ton of forums out there with great advice on that. Off the top of my head, I would not wire brush the machine. I would explore a stripper of some kind, but make sure you check in with others more experienced than I. Thanks for watching and best regards.
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I have used oven cleaner on all the mechanical parts ie. Linkages face plates etc and came up beautifully. No. Damage to any surfaces. No metal removed . You have done an excellent job of the entire project. Wrll done. A good workman.
You do nice cleaning & polishing work. I have a similar approach when repairing old vacuum tube radios! All from 1932 to 1970.
The worn spot on the are is usually from a piece of flannel sewn on and used for a pin cushion. this machine is ready for the next hundred years! love it!
I love U.S. vintage Singer sewing machines. Thanks!
For the rust, Evaporust works well. I used it on my treadle faceplate and it helped without hurting it. I heard about it from people who restore vintage machines. Thanks for the tip on Simichrome and steel wool. That looks like it did better than metal polish I used, even getting most of those tiny black dots.
I know this video is over 3 years old, but I’m so excited!
I just picked up an antique singer that’s basically identical to this one (although in slightly better condition), and this was so helpful! I was trying to clean it (with literally just water, i know nothing about machine restoration) and noticed this gunk coming up which is apparently old sewing machine oil. I’ll have to pick up some oil and see if that helps, I don’t want to risk damaging such a beautiful machine.
Water soluble products can ruin the decals. SMO (sewing machine oil) works. Some people use Gojo for difficult areas.
All your videos have been well done and very precise and informative.
That looks like it was stored after it was terribly used. Good job.
I love how you cleaned without overcleaning.. it's 90+ years old and i think it would look artful if it was shiny and new looking
I used brasso to clean my metal parts and oiled the moving parts after cleaning out the trapped lint. Got familiar with brasso in the Marines.
That looks great! I think the gunk on the machine might have been nicotine, but the old oil does build up. It's nice you oiled the moving parts, that machine is very usable and oiling makes it run smoother. My local Walmart carries Singer oil or you can buy it by the gallon on line. 😲 That would be a lifetime supply for me with a lot left over, I go through about 8 ounces a year. Nice job, Larry.
You can get Singers oil on our website for a low price! You should go check it out: bit.ly/2pGroGp
Try your metal polish with a piece of folded newspaper. Drop a pea size blob of metal polish onto the folded newspaper them start rubbing your piece through the polish with downward pressure. The paper will get a metallic sheen and your metal item will be burnished, clean away the excess cleaner with a soft cloth.
I used this method to clean parts of horse harness when I was in an army ceremonial unit.
Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks! Looks great! I want that can of Singer Oil!!!!!
I rescue old Singers and get them back to sewing if possible. The place where the black finish is missing may be from where in later years an after market lamp was put close to the body. I have one that has the same problem. Some of these machines were finished in shellack, so caution to anyone who wants to clean one of these up. Be careful with cleaner. I restore mine to working/sewing order so I can’t clean with machine oil.
You should have a companion blog where your subscribers can post pics of their finished projects inspired by your videos!
I know! So little time!
Love your videos!
Might I ask why you wouldn't use SM oil for cleaning? Does it harm the shellac finish?
I stuck my screws and stuff on too a drill and spun it fast while I held some brasso on a rag up to it. The plating is pretty thick and I was carefully so it worked fine. Great video turned out looking nice!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and to all those that offered their methods also.
There are a ton of very talented people in our small community. What a wonderful resource.
50:50 vinegar and water cleaned up my covers - a 1911 neglected machine. Polish with a toothbrush and solvol autosol then I just buffed up with a drill/ wheel attachment. Worked a treat and is much gentler than wire wool.
I've had great success using micro mesh to polish my sewing machine parts. Shine up like a mirror.
I have a few vintage machines and yes the best is sewing machine oil, less chance of damaging the decals, if you go into it further you can use car polish zymol I think it is and metal polish, great job at the restoration
Yep! Zymol is the best polish for vintage machines. I have quite a collection of machines myself.
annette stafford have you restored a 15_91
Which zymol product? Their cleaner wax?
The part of the sewing machine where the paint is missing is more than likely to have been caused by the users wedding ring when lifting and lowering it. My Mum had one just like it. By the way, great work.
just what i thought
The cleaning at 13:38 I did by removing everything and soaking it in kerosene, no scraping necessary, all the goo came off with paper towels, cotton balls and Q-tips.
Not overrestored! Fine!
The clear coat on the old machines is shellac which you probably use plenty of. You can re-do the exterior of the machine by adding more shellac with spirit and french polishing. This will also protect the decals better too.
Sharon, what is meant when you noted "adding more shellac w/spirit & French polishing"? I have methods I use but perhaps yours may work better. Thanks.
the damage in the top arm centre was probably from many years of a pin cloth. a seamstress would pin a folded piece of cloth about 3" wide around the arm just there to have somewhere to stick her pins as she takes them out..you could add an authentic touch and hide that damage by using a pin cloth with a couple pins in it :)
You're right Pam. My mom did this on her treadle machine, which I learned to sew on, only she added a bit of stuffing to it and placed elastic to hold it in place. I've seen this also on some of the machines in my collection of 24 but they're not all Singers. I have a couple of Burnettes, 2 - ¾ sized Kenmores, 2 sergers, and 19 Singers, and a Graybar with a lovely cabinet w/a musical harp design on the supports..
I am blessed to be able to work at a local mission store, evaluate donated sm's and clean/fix those I'm able to so they can bless others.
Thanks for the input.
WD-40 would have worked on some of those smaller parts to dislodge the dirt and oil without hurting the finish. I did that to my grandma's machine that she had and got it working great before she passed away.
Larry yet another outstanding informative and entertaining video
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Singer recommends Zymol Cleaner and Zymol Wax. They put out a video on the product and it was fantastic.
I found the video on the Singer Featherweight site and it looks like the Zymol Cleaner & Zymol with carnauba Wax is gentle, safe and brings amazing results! Best comment here, thank you for that Dyana
Awesome video.
Thanks!
Wow what a pro, look at this he knows what hes doing: lysy restoration.
aa: He didn't say he was restoring them. Only that he cleaned them, which is one of the first steps of restoration.
these were well built..and in the USA..but...not anymore..btw..love the kobalt tool cabinets...
Greetings. You should invest in a Ultrasonic Cleaner. You will be Amazed at the result. Cheers.
Yes, an Ultrasonic cleaner and a sand blaster are on my dream list. Shop space is a continuing issue for me. Best regards!
For thumbscrews and circular plate and face plate try an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner.
steel wool omg I don't think I can watch. I bought some GoJo. the sewing machine oil is for more delicate because it takes forever to cut through. I use it but have found coconut oil to be effective. going to try the GoJo today. Definitely don't want to use any abrasives on the machine itself. the customer can always buy another plate on eBay. rust converter may work but if so the way through probably just needs to be replaced. GoJo original has mineral oil in the ingredients.
Do you still restore these machines and cabinets? I have one just like this that I need to get restored. I live in Rome Georgia.
Watching your videos I tried to restore my table... thank you
Great! Good luck!!
AndyTube made the point that ladies would tie fabric over the "neck" of the machine to stick their pins into. Hence, all the damage you usually see on older machines on the neck from pins sticking into the paint finish.
Abe Lincoln that’s what happened to mine! It was a crochet piece. Had no idea it had pins in it and my dad got stuck!
Thank you for such an informative set of videos. I have just finished a complete restoration of a 1926 treadle machine and table. I am however having trouble getting back the sliding bobbin cover! Any tips please?
Andy tube. And vintage sewing machine garage. Will give you great info on fixing your sewing machine.
Hola, buenos días, le escribo desde Campeche, Campeche, México. Hermosos videos de restauración de máquinas de coser Singer. Muy bien explicado excelente trabajo, ojalá logre hacer lo mismo con mi máquina del año 1918. Lástima que sus videos no estén configurados para ponerles subtítulos en español. Saludos.
Gracias!
missing paint and wear on the arm due to "pin rash"
I have to assume that the delay in the finale of this series is because of the devistation Hurricane Michel caused in the area south of him. Its going to be quite a while till some areas even have power and other resources restored. Might just ultimately be a good thing that Larry has the machine and its not in a possible disaster zone of the owners. Best Wishes to All
It is. I will probably put out the final video shortly without the reveal. The owner is currently unable to travel north. They are all safe and well, thank goodness. I'm happy to store the machine here until circumstances allow them to travel. Thanks for inquiring.
Somewhat of a wrap up would be a good idea right now. You can do an update & reveal at a future date, from what I have seen on the news, its going to be atleast a couple of months till things settle down somewhat and more till life is back to normal in so many areas, A whack of 2 hurricanes hitting fairly close together will do in the best of us. Even my family member in Maryland had rain and winds worse than they planned for and then the related humidity !!!
I have used toothpaste to clean silver. Wondering how that would work on the front plate. And other silver parts?
I don't know as I haven't used it. I guess you could give it a try. Good luck.
wow!!! now this vid really helped me. had no idea that all it takes is stuff i have at home and elbow grease. thanks a million. dumb question? are mineral spirits and mineral oil the same? thanks again.
It's not a dumb question at all. It can get a bit confusing. Mineral Oil is an oil. Mineral Spirits (similar to turpentine and less refined than Naptha) is an oil solvent. Hope this helps.
@@LostMountainRestoration so helpful; thanks a million.
ha ... i know the difference between a bobbin and a baloney sandwich ... amazing results!
Hi just wondering about that badge, and specifically the little pins that hold the badge in place, were you able to remove and reinstall the originals? I just picked a machine up and really want to remove and fix up the badge, but don't want to ruin the pins, as I'm guessing they would be impossible to replace (they have fancy little rosette design heads). Cheers,
I really don't do much with the machines. I leave those in place. I assume they are the same kind of rivets that tags are affixed to machinery with and I believe you can purchase them.
@@LostMountainRestoration Thanks!
Hi. I rescued an old Singer treadle base from a flood recently and I am repurposing the base castings. I have some parts left over that I won't be using, just wondering if you want me to send them your way.
No thank you, but I appreciate the offer. Best regards.
I found one of these old machines on the side of the road someone had dumped, is there a place to buy parts ? oddly these machines are still in use in Cuba if I could take it there I could have is repaired like new for a few dollars.
I have found eBay to be the best place to find parts. Also check local Facebook and Craigslist posts for decrepit machines you can buy for parts.
Hi, i’m from the UK and have owned a Singer 222K, 1956 model, which was inherited, some 35 years ago. Unfortunately, the gentleman who serviced it on a regular basis and who understood the featherweight machines, has now passed away. I need to oil the machine. I have the Singer oil. Do you have a video to show how to do this please?
I'm sorry, I don't do much with the machines themselves, other than clean them. I'm sure if you check around the internet you can find the information you are seeking. There are many very knowledgable Singer affecianados who are happy to share their knowledge. Check out forums, etc. and hopefully you can find what you are looking for. Best of luck to you!
Lost Mountain Restoration
I’m grateful to you. Thank you very much.
If you are blessed to have a manual, it should show you points to ad oil and it's best to just add a drop to each point. You can also check out "novamontgomery.com" for info also. She specializes in Featherweights and also has cards with photos and instructions on how/where to oil, plus info on lubing the motors. She's an awesome woman and holds classes for doing this in many different places in our southern states. Check out her sight. She also has an online "shop" in which one can order some "FW" parts and carries lube for the motors.
Shirley Ann
That is so very kind of you.
I did have a manual which simply disappeared from the case. No one, of course, has seen it so, clearly it grew wings and flew off to foreign parts.
I shall visit the sites you mention. Thank you, most sincerely, for the information.
Oo no vinegar please. It will pit the metal. We were taught (in the army) when cleaning rifles to use the oil, cloths and repeated cleaning. Soaking in vinegar worked quickly ,but eventually pitted the metal parts (breach blocks etc)
I have a 1889 new home treadle machine. Could you tell me what it is capable of sewing? Can you sew leather with it?
I'm not qualified to give you a good answer. You may want to post your question on a Singer forum or the like. Good luck.
i just bought a singer sewing machine, with sewing table in working condition. It looks like the same model your cleaning. Can you tell me what model that is? Mine has a C serial number and i couldnt really find much on them.
I'm sorry, I don't remember. There are a lot of very astute Singer collectors on-line. I bet if you posted a photo of your machine in a Singer forum you would get many valuable replies. Thanks and best regards.
@@LostMountainRestoration I was able to figure it out. I actually have a G series serial number. I was able to find that its called like a redeye and was built june 1910. I appreciate you taking the time to answer tho. Thank you!
I've heard that the creamy GoJo hand cleaner (pumice free) works amazingly well to clean the bodies of the machines, but tbh I've never tried it (never had an old Singer to restore). Have you had any experience with it?
No. I saw it on a RUclips video, though. I used the oil as it was a recommendation from a viewer. In the past I have just used soap and water or a dilute commercial cleaner.
The problem with the Go Jo is if the top coat is gone you can silver the decals. I know the video on you tube showing the guy using Go Jo. It's not recommended for vintage machines in the interest of preserving the decals.
Hi Sharon,
Be that as it may, I've tried everything and found gojo to be the best
I've spent over $100 on different cleaners and waxes and with all the scrubbing you
have to do you stand a greater chance of messing up your decals and thinning the
clearcoat.
For that matter I'd say if you hurt decals with gojo it's because they were in serious
trouble already.
Sure you can go the zymol route and spend big bucks, but at the end of the day you
will end up with a better surface with a $3 can of gojo.
I've learned this from actual doing, not hearing.
that singer is not painted. it's japanning (the same with the base).... it's almost like a 19th century powder coat, except it goes on wet.
What causes the pitting?
Corrosion.
How much do these non electric ones resell for?
I have bought examples for $10 to $20 in unrestored condition. I have never sold a restored one. Perhaps you could check eBay and see what they have sold for in the past.
bobbin from bologna sandwich!
Hello , I have Singer sewing machine of 1935. I would like to buy different types of presser foot. Can you suggest me from where I can purchase? Please help me with this.
I normally source off eBay, but check other on-line sources and forums.
Great
You should vacuum or brush off the dust on the outside of the machine before wiping with the sewing machine oil. Just saying...
Dental tools might be helpful
Hi. I'm restoring my Nannas 110yr old Singer Sewing Machine. I need to strip the paint back ready for respray. Should I write brush it or will that be too harsh?
I am not qualified to comment on the restoration of the machine itself. There are a ton of forums out there with great advice on that. Off the top of my head, I would not wire brush the machine. I would explore a stripper of some kind, but make sure you check in with others more experienced than I. Thanks for watching and best regards.
Singer 66