Thank You very much for this detailed explanation & demonstration. The carriage's total release was new for me and it is very helpful for maintenance. I got my own WSR160 for just 20EUR recently in a very good condition. After a thorough cleaning and lubrication with fine sewing machine oil it now operates incredibly smooth and pleasing again. One can tell that the manufacturer has a solid engineering & machining background from small arms production. No need for a silencer! ;-)
Great video Japp - I really like the WSR160 (or Muldivo Mentor as mine are the UK branded models) I think they're one of the nicest pinwheel calculators I've used. I'm just finishing rebuilding my second one - every component was totally seized when it arrived. All freed up now and a missing part re-made, just got to reassemble it - I'd wondered what the additional lever on the bottom right of the carriage did (my other machine doesn't feature this) - I figured it would become obvious when I reassembled the machine, but now I know that it returns the carriage to the left when you pull the reset lever, cheers.
Hi Tim - I've just got my hands on a WSR-18... it works but it feels clogged. Which oil do you recommenend to make it smooth again + how to remove the clogged oil? I'm really looking forward to getting this beauty back to work.
@@girefox Hi girefox, I usually use a light oil like sewing machine oil or similar - the old 3 in 1 oil is fine - car engine oil is a bit too thick for the job - WD40 isn't really a lubricant so I wouldn't recommend that, although it can help freeing parts up. Depending on how seized it is, sometimes just adding a drop of fresh oil to each seized shaft or pivot and giving the shaft or pivot a good jiggle, will allow the fresh oil to be drawn in by capillary action, which in turn softens the old dried oil. Unless I'm completely dismantling a machine I don't usually worry about completely removing the dried oil, because usually, once you've added fresh oil, the dried oil becomes liquid again. If the machine is really seized up, I usually resort to gentle heat from a hot air gun (not one of the ones for paint stripping, but one of the ones used for crafting and card making - you can see me using one in some of my videos), usually, once enough heat has been applied, things free off a bit easier, but it still takes time. If you want to see the hot air gun I use, you can see it in my video Lagomarsino Numeria Model 9203 - Part Two (hopefully if you search for that you should find the video)
@@girefox I use a hair dryer to warm the mechanism up gently, and WD40 to free up seized parts. After a few days of drying off, I use fine sewing machine oil to re-lubricate ALL moving parts & joints. Isopropanol is used as a non-agressive solvent for stains and old lubricant that has totally gummed up, as Isopropanol doesn't attack most paints.
Hi Jaap - I've just found a WSR-16 - which looks slightly different - I'm planning on restoring it. Optically the unit is in good shape yet calculating is not smooth as in your video. Do you mind helping me along (documentation pointers? ) + oil recommendation?
I have one of these myself, and I'm trying to get into it and repair it as the crank appears to be locked. My dad and I know the revolution counter and pinwheel work fine, and we believe based on information from service manuals that it is a bar of some sort blocking the crank. Any other information on this issue is most appreciated.
There are several possible causes. Firstly, the handle of the crank is supposed to be pulled out to the right to release it from its cradle before the crank can be turned. If the handle does pull out but the crank still won't move, then it is probably some safety interlock system that is blocking it: the crank shouldn't be able to move if the carriage is not aligned, or a clearing handle is not in its rest position (see 6:50 in the video for example), or an input pin is not set to a number. If those things are in order but it still won't move, then maybe one of those safety systems is stuck. In that case you'll have to open it to lubricate it. The carriage should easily removable by shifting it to the far left and pushing the metal tab shown at 10:37 in the video. Good luck!
Thank You very much for this detailed explanation & demonstration. The carriage's total release was new for me and it is very helpful for maintenance. I got my own WSR160 for just 20EUR recently in a very good condition. After a thorough cleaning and lubrication with fine sewing machine oil it now operates incredibly smooth and pleasing again. One can tell that the manufacturer has a solid engineering & machining background from small arms production. No need for a silencer! ;-)
Great video Japp - I really like the WSR160 (or Muldivo Mentor as mine are the UK branded models) I think they're one of the nicest pinwheel calculators I've used.
I'm just finishing rebuilding my second one - every component was totally seized when it arrived. All freed up now and a missing part re-made, just got to reassemble it - I'd wondered what the additional lever on the bottom right of the carriage did (my other machine doesn't feature this) - I figured it would become obvious when I reassembled the machine, but now I know that it returns the carriage to the left when you pull the reset lever, cheers.
Hi Tim - I've just got my hands on a WSR-18... it works but it feels clogged. Which oil do you recommenend to make it smooth again + how to remove the clogged oil? I'm really looking forward to getting this beauty back to work.
@@girefox Hi girefox, I usually use a light oil like sewing machine oil or similar - the old 3 in 1 oil is fine - car engine oil is a bit too thick for the job - WD40 isn't really a lubricant so I wouldn't recommend that, although it can help freeing parts up. Depending on how seized it is, sometimes just adding a drop of fresh oil to each seized shaft or pivot and giving the shaft or pivot a good jiggle, will allow the fresh oil to be drawn in by capillary action, which in turn softens the old dried oil. Unless I'm completely dismantling a machine I don't usually worry about completely removing the dried oil, because usually, once you've added fresh oil, the dried oil becomes liquid again.
If the machine is really seized up, I usually resort to gentle heat from a hot air gun (not one of the ones for paint stripping, but one of the ones used for crafting and card making - you can see me using one in some of my videos), usually, once enough heat has been applied, things free off a bit easier, but it still takes time. If you want to see the hot air gun I use, you can see it in my video Lagomarsino Numeria Model 9203 - Part Two (hopefully if you search for that you should find the video)
@@girefox I use a hair dryer to warm the mechanism up gently, and WD40 to free up seized parts. After a few days of drying off, I use fine sewing machine oil to re-lubricate ALL moving parts & joints. Isopropanol is used as a non-agressive solvent for stains and old lubricant that has totally gummed up, as Isopropanol doesn't attack most paints.
@@19ghost73 yeap - I've done the same- I used wd40 to 'clean' and then used ptfe spray to lubricate. The machine runs like a devil now !
Great explanations, good reference for new owners. Thanks for the video. I am keen to try the alternative division method, not seen that before.
Hi Jaap - I've just found a WSR-16 - which looks slightly different - I'm planning on restoring it. Optically the unit is in good shape yet calculating is not smooth as in your video. Do you mind helping me along (documentation pointers? ) + oil recommendation?
That is German engineering at it's best. Everything is thought of. I have one of these.
I have one of these myself, and I'm trying to get into it and repair it as the crank appears to be locked. My dad and I know the revolution counter and pinwheel work fine, and we believe based on information from service manuals that it is a bar of some sort blocking the crank. Any other information on this issue is most appreciated.
There are several possible causes. Firstly, the handle of the crank is supposed to be pulled out to the right to release it from its cradle before the crank can be turned. If the handle does pull out but the crank still won't move, then it is probably some safety interlock system that is blocking it: the crank shouldn't be able to move if the carriage is not aligned, or a clearing handle is not in its rest position (see 6:50 in the video for example), or an input pin is not set to a number. If those things are in order but it still won't move, then maybe one of those safety systems is stuck. In that case you'll have to open it to lubricate it. The carriage should easily removable by shifting it to the far left and pushing the metal tab shown at 10:37 in the video. Good luck!