Thank you! This helps very much in understanding why compost is much better than raw manure. Your presentation is quite good, because voice comes together over text and picture.
Magnificent video! Great way to breakdown the differences between manure and compost! I learned a lot. I used to think they were more similar than they are.
You should read a book called "The Humanure Handbook". Although it's about composting of humanure/animal feces (and not only), it explains a lot of similar things why aerobic composting is superior to anaerobic, and in fact it argues that composting **is** an aerobic process (because it's safe, unlike anaerobic, and no one wants to have anything to do with unsafe things/processes).
Leave it in a big pile or incorporate it into your compost pile/bin. 3x3x3 feet minimum if you want to kill weed seeds etc. Turn every week for 5 weeks and let it sit for as long as possible until you new it.👍🏻🤠
So non-composted goat poo laid down on the dirt without composting is bad? We used it to cover weeds in between rows in our garden. Can we compost it after it’s been sitting a long time?
So, in a cover crop field, would it be better for the soil, to either graze the covers down using livestock, or mow the covers and plant through them? (bearing in mind the negative effects of manure)
Can I sprinkle/spread composted manure on an existing lawn? Instead of using fertilizer? Will that be able to enter soil? I don't want a bowling green monocrop lawn but just healthy plants from a healthy soil
Yes, you can. But mulch immediately over with fresh grass, to preserve compost from excessive sun and rain (not to dry and not to be washed away). Compost will enter in soil and enrich it.
we have a area 54 by 84 normal peat moss black dirt on top clay under that . i am digging 10 feet deep adding wet manure and rotted down manure and mixing. i cant find the bottom of the clay. i can reach 15 feet deep. our goal is to let sit 1 year and keep mixing. them lab testing. what is your opinion
I think you need more high-carbon components to truly create a well-balanced system. Manure and rotted manure is generally a high-bacteria environment. You need elements that promote fungal growth as well as more complex foods that enable their propogation. Wood chips, sawdust, and other "brown" material will provide a more balanced environment. You can also brew Microbial Mineral Tea using our fungally dominant brewing ingredients and stimulants to improve the soil environment.
Spreading raw manure adds organic matter and biology to the soil, but it is not as effective or as beneficial as composted manure. In addition, the raw manure can easily contain anaerobic toxins that can be detrimental to the crops and the soils, especially if the manure came from concentrated and anaerobic piles.
The reduced form of elements being preferable must also explain why plants prevent a neutral to even basic pH in the soil sometimes. For instance Ca is best absorbed in an alkaline environment.
Generally, calcium is most available in soils with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5. Both highly acidic (pH below 6.0) and alkaline (pH above 7.5) soils can limit calcium uptake by plants.
This is somewhat misleading - anaerobic decomposition (fermentation) does not automatically produce pathogens. See the benefits of "bokashi" (fermented biological materials).
Hi Thomas! I see a compost pile that goes anaerobic, differently to bokashi. In the pile with anaerob pockets we loose nutrients like nitrogen, which will be blown off as ammonia. In the bokashi approach we try to keep all nutrients and have them available for plants in a later stage.
1) Make compost that is dominated by fungi. Do this by making large piles that have a higher percentage of carbon and let them age for four years on native soil without turning. 2) Incorporate hugelkultur practice. 3) If soil is extremely poor, excavate at least three feet deep and bury logs 12 inches in diameter or larger. Use hardwood if possible. This is an extreme measure, as the process destroys a great deal of existing fungii. It takes 5-6 years to bounce back.
Somebody is making the hard sell on a surplus of compost. Marketing professionals are the second worst people, right after the ignorant chumps that fall for it and keep funding the marketing department.
There are many kinds of manure. I buy thousands of tons of feedlot manure each year. It is not all that fresh as it comes from cattle in a dry lot and has a analysis of 2.5 3.0 2.8. Dairy manure would have about 1/3 the phosphate. If the manure came from a farm feedlot in the Midwest it might have great amount of bedding and be very little NPK. Soil has billions of microbes in a lb. Give then things to eat and their population will explode. The analysis on the bag is all that is in the bag, mostly in organic forms. Composted or not. Composted will have less plant materials and break down faster in the soil. Fresh manure is more direct from the farm...not sold at a garden store.
Thank you! This helps very much in understanding why compost is much better than raw manure.
Your presentation is quite good, because voice comes together over text and picture.
Magnificent video! Great way to breakdown the differences between manure and compost! I learned a lot. I used to think they were more similar than they are.
This is such a helpful video. Please could you supply some textual references for this material.
Thanks for letting me know that aerobic composting biology is superior. I am adopting aerobic manuring and was doubtful. 😊
You should read a book called "The Humanure Handbook". Although it's about composting of humanure/animal feces (and not only), it explains a lot of similar things why aerobic composting is superior to anaerobic, and in fact it argues that composting **is** an aerobic process (because it's safe, unlike anaerobic, and no one wants to have anything to do with unsafe things/processes).
@@milleniumfalcon9677
Excellent video, great delivery, and packed with information. I do hope you will make more!
Thanks for the great information suppose the raw pure manure is left to break down for couple of months?
Can you do a video on how to properly compost manure?
Leave it in a big pile or incorporate it into your compost pile/bin. 3x3x3 feet minimum if you want to kill weed seeds etc. Turn every week for 5 weeks and let it sit for as long as possible until you new it.👍🏻🤠
Make a pile
Keep it wet
Cover it
Turn it ever 3-12 months depending on what you’re doing
I appreciate this short informative video😊
Very well done, I love the animations to go along with the lesson. Great production value.
How about manuer at the place have ben made? They ackt like conpous
So non-composted goat poo laid down on the dirt without composting is bad? We used it to cover weeds in between rows in our garden. Can we compost it after it’s been sitting a long time?
So, in a cover crop field, would it be better for the soil, to either graze the covers down using livestock, or mow the covers and plant through them? (bearing in mind the negative effects of manure)
This is so interesting and informative. Do you have any information on your company ?
You can find out more about us at www.BioMineralsTechnologies.com
What is the best compost available to buy in the uk? As in the best biological life and bacteria
Can I sprinkle/spread composted manure on an existing lawn? Instead of using fertilizer? Will that be able to enter soil? I don't want a bowling green monocrop lawn but just healthy plants from a healthy soil
Yes, you can.
But mulch immediately over with fresh grass, to preserve compost from excessive sun and rain (not to dry and not to be washed away). Compost will enter in soil and enrich it.
Thank you for this useful and very informative video.
we have a area 54 by 84 normal peat moss black dirt on top clay under that . i am digging 10 feet deep adding wet manure and rotted down manure and mixing. i cant find the bottom of the clay. i can reach 15 feet deep. our goal is to let sit 1 year and keep mixing. them lab testing. what is your opinion
I think you need more high-carbon components to truly create a well-balanced system. Manure and rotted manure is generally a high-bacteria environment. You need elements that promote fungal growth as well as more complex foods that enable their propogation. Wood chips, sawdust, and other "brown" material will provide a more balanced environment.
You can also brew Microbial Mineral Tea using our fungally dominant brewing ingredients and stimulants to improve the soil environment.
What happens to all the chemicals/growth hormones etc fed to animals ?
So does spreading raw manure in the field to dry effective or not?
Spreading raw manure adds organic matter and biology to the soil, but it is not as effective or as beneficial as composted manure. In addition, the raw manure can easily contain anaerobic toxins that can be detrimental to the crops and the soils, especially if the manure came from concentrated and anaerobic piles.
Great video.
The reduced form of elements being preferable must also explain why plants prevent a neutral to even basic pH in the soil sometimes. For instance Ca is best absorbed in an alkaline environment.
The science in this video is absolute trash bordering on outright lies, somebody at the compost company hired a marketer to sell their product.
Generally, calcium is most available in soils with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5. Both highly acidic (pH below 6.0) and alkaline (pH above 7.5) soils can limit calcium uptake by plants.
This is somewhat misleading - anaerobic decomposition (fermentation) does not automatically produce pathogens. See the benefits of "bokashi" (fermented biological materials).
Hi Thomas! I see a compost pile that goes anaerobic, differently to bokashi. In the pile with anaerob pockets we loose nutrients like nitrogen, which will be blown off as ammonia. In the bokashi approach we try to keep all nutrients and have them available for plants in a later stage.
@@michaelevrard1584not true. If there are enough lacto bacillus and pnsb they will ferment the nitrogen molecules into amino acids
Great soil has mixture pockets of anaerobic , aerobic, semi-anaerobic and semi-aerobic
Excellent video, thanks
how can I increase fungae ratio in the soil?
1) Make compost that is dominated by fungi. Do this by making large piles that have a higher percentage of carbon and let them age for four years on native soil without turning. 2) Incorporate hugelkultur practice. 3) If soil is extremely poor, excavate at least three feet deep and bury logs 12 inches in diameter or larger. Use hardwood if possible. This is an extreme measure, as the process destroys a great deal of existing fungii. It takes 5-6 years to bounce back.
Well explained!
Somebody is making the hard sell on a surplus of compost.
Marketing professionals are the second worst people, right after the ignorant chumps that fall for it and keep funding the marketing department.
how to make compost manure
I really wanted to watch the content but the background music is absolutely annoying.
beAuTiFuL
❤❤❤❤
👍
So basically its best to let nature do the composting and recycling than adding expensive npk compost.
And to be honest... raw manure taste like shit, meanwhile, compost is more earthy.
I think this video is funded by a company that has invested in Composted manure.
This is black and white. Or one sided!
I'm interested in your thinking.....
There are many kinds of manure. I buy thousands of tons of feedlot manure each year. It is not all that fresh as it comes from cattle in a dry lot and has a analysis of 2.5 3.0 2.8. Dairy manure would have about 1/3 the phosphate. If the manure came from a farm feedlot in the Midwest it might have great amount of bedding and be very little NPK.
Soil has billions of microbes in a lb. Give then things to eat and their population will explode. The analysis on the bag is all that is in the bag, mostly in organic forms. Composted or not. Composted will have less plant materials and break down faster in the soil. Fresh manure is more direct from the farm...not sold at a garden store.